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[Chicago] Next - Grant Achatz

[Chicago] Next - Grant Achatz
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  • Post #391 - May 27th, 2011, 12:20 pm
    Post #391 - May 27th, 2011, 12:20 pm Post #391 - May 27th, 2011, 12:20 pm
    Will be making my maiden voyage next Friday.
  • Post #392 - May 27th, 2011, 12:45 pm
    Post #392 - May 27th, 2011, 12:45 pm Post #392 - May 27th, 2011, 12:45 pm
    mattshafferHP wrote:Will be making my maiden voyage next Friday.

    Did you get the whine pairing? :)
  • Post #393 - May 27th, 2011, 1:35 pm
    Post #393 - May 27th, 2011, 1:35 pm Post #393 - May 27th, 2011, 1:35 pm
    Hahaha.

    Actually we did.
  • Post #394 - May 27th, 2011, 3:40 pm
    Post #394 - May 27th, 2011, 3:40 pm Post #394 - May 27th, 2011, 3:40 pm
    The wine pairings are really great, but don't forget the non alcoholic pairings. My girlfriend got that and it was really good. I was almost jealous!! But the red served with the duck was great! I even poured myself a second glass before the server could. Whoops!!
  • Post #395 - June 2nd, 2011, 3:40 pm
    Post #395 - June 2nd, 2011, 3:40 pm Post #395 - June 2nd, 2011, 3:40 pm
    I figured I'd chime in and try and figure out what it is about the Chicken dish that people didn't like. It was my personal favorite dish, as I found the chicken incredibly flavorful and lush and the sauce was an incredible thing of beauty. When taken back to the kitchen and asking about the sauce, I was advised that there is in fact foie gras (I had asked if there was liver in it), just not so much as to make a point to tell the diner that. My real only detractor for the meal was probably the fact that there was a bit too much dressing under the salade irma, and I can live with that.
  • Post #396 - June 2nd, 2011, 3:53 pm
    Post #396 - June 2nd, 2011, 3:53 pm Post #396 - June 2nd, 2011, 3:53 pm
    NobleSquirrel wrote:I figured I'd chime in and try and figure out what it is about the Chicken dish that people didn't like. It was my personal favorite dish, as I found the chicken incredibly flavorful and lush and the sauce was an incredible thing of beauty. When taken back to the kitchen and asking about the sauce, I was advised that there is in fact foie gras (I had asked if there was liver in it), just not so much as to make a point to tell the diner that. My real only detractor for the meal was probably the fact that there was a bit too much dressing under the salade irma, and I can live with that.


    Here's my problem with the "Chicken dish"...the chicken and sauce blanquette are hauntingly good, but they are completely overpowered by the butter-poached salt-pork wrapped chicken mystery meat stuffed cucumber abomination. For me, the strength of flavor in the "accompaniment" muscles that gorgeous, but extremely tiny piece of chicken in a wonderfully subtle sauce right off the plate. The salt-pork in particular was just far too bold for this use. Loved the chicken, but not the dish.
  • Post #397 - June 2nd, 2011, 7:29 pm
    Post #397 - June 2nd, 2011, 7:29 pm Post #397 - June 2nd, 2011, 7:29 pm
    Wow. Can't believe I just read 14 pages. Not sure how much I can add to what people have already written about their meals at Next, but I'm compelled to share my experience anyway.

    I was lucky enough to get a table for 4 about three weeks ago via the 'same day tickets' system. I had signed up last fall, got the email, got the password, was never able to get the calendar screen. Got lucky when I saw a 'same day' note on Facebook, sent an email, got the table. Seems there is really absolutely no way for them to devise a system that pleases everyone, and the combination of early invites for friends and family, email and online ticketing with the additional daily releases of 4 tables is the best. At least it creates opportunity to keep trying.

    Arrived about 15 minutes early for our seating (9:15) and the hostess was very gracious and gave us each a glass of sparkling wine while we waited. A shame there was nowhere for us to wait but in the small vestibule, but frankly I was so excited to actually be there I didn't care. And giving my partner and myself a glass of wine while we waited was really really gracious, esp since we had paid for the non-alcoholic pairing. Although, as I explained to the hostess, it's not because we don't drink -- we do, and frequently -- but because I wanted to see how inventive they could be with the beverages. At any rate, we were eventually seated and joined by our dinner companions. At which point I looked around expecting to see Zaphod Beeblebrox. Seriously, the room really felt like some futuristic cabin in a transport vessel..... to me, anyway. Loved it, it seemed in synch with the notion of traveling through time and space as they plan to do with their changing menus.

    Food was amazing, --rich, layered, deep with flavors. Beverages were fabulous, - complex, fun, refreshing. The egg custard with the truffle? Could I please have one of those for breakfast every day for the rest of my life? And the perfectly sliced shell... I've never held an egg topper that can cut such a perfectly straight line. I could continue listing every dish, but I'm nowhere near as articulate as some of the other writers here, so I won't waste the space.

    On to the minor quibbles. Minor, hardly worth mentioning, but for the fact that this was a very expensive dinner for me. I've never dined at Alinea, and unless I win the lottery or someone else is paying, it's unlikely that I ever will. Next is the upper end for me, economically. Ok, quibble #1: one of the servers had a very shaky hand as she poured my drink. Seriously shaky. Was it the angle? Why not pour at an angle that's comfortable, then? Was she nervous? I actually found myself worried about her. Is her wrist sore? Is she distraught? Is she OK? Quibble #2: bread crumb scraper thingy after every single course in front of each of us. Fine, if it's necessary, but honestly, except for one time, there were no crumbs or food items in front of any of us, I checked. So why the sweeping scraping intrusion between each course? Was it to erase the impression of the plate in the tablecloth? Was it to theatrically force a pause? I found it odd. Last quibble and most minor of all: servers trying to crack jokes. Not funny, only slightly painful. Maybe I'm the exception, but I prefer my servers to be somewhat aloof. Present the dish, tell me what it is and anything the kitchen feels I should know about the ingredients and preparation, and then go away! I'm there to dine with my companions and if we have questions we will ask. I would expect servers to pick up on this based on the interaction they're receiving (or not) from us.

    But these criticisms are really minor, and I'm certain that many gentle readers here will disagree with me. All in all, an amazing experience not to be missed. Not sure if I'll be at future iterations, but I am sure I'll try for tickets when and if I can.

    Lastly, I have to say that I was really impressed with Nick's responses to this thread. Gracious, articulate, intelligent and good-natured. That is one classy guy. I congratulate him and Grant and all of the staff there (failed comics included) for creating an experience like no other. Bravi!
  • Post #398 - June 3rd, 2011, 9:51 am
    Post #398 - June 3rd, 2011, 9:51 am Post #398 - June 3rd, 2011, 9:51 am
    omnivore wrote: Quibble #2: bread crumb scraper thingy after every single course in front of each of us. Fine, if it's necessary, but honestly, except for one time, there were no crumbs or food items in front of any of us, I checked. So why the sweeping scraping intrusion between each course? Was it to erase the impression of the plate in the tablecloth? Was it to theatrically force a pause? I found it odd. !


    One of the servers who did this (after the hors d'oeurves platter) actually said that he thought they did it as much to smooth out the wrinkles in the tablecloth (so yeah, the plate impression included) as for the crumbs, since there were clearly no crumbs on the table after that first course.

    We were in on Wednesday night on one of the sameday tables via Facebook. I really enjoyed everything. The duck is everything people have said and with a great wine pairing. Service was outstanding. No need to rehash what many have said, so I won't go on too much. However, one of the things that stood out to me on the wine pairings was the with the hors d'oeurves -- the sparkling wine that they paired with it was a particularly interesting and excellent pairing with the small mushroom roll with the tomato diamond on top (I don't know exactly what this thing was called).
  • Post #399 - June 3rd, 2011, 10:20 am
    Post #399 - June 3rd, 2011, 10:20 am Post #399 - June 3rd, 2011, 10:20 am
    kl1191 wrote:
    NobleSquirrel wrote:I figured I'd chime in and try and figure out what it is about the Chicken dish that people didn't like. It was my personal favorite dish, as I found the chicken incredibly flavorful and lush and the sauce was an incredible thing of beauty. When taken back to the kitchen and asking about the sauce, I was advised that there is in fact foie gras (I had asked if there was liver in it), just not so much as to make a point to tell the diner that. My real only detractor for the meal was probably the fact that there was a bit too much dressing under the salade irma, and I can live with that.


    Here's my problem with the "Chicken dish"...the chicken and sauce blanquette are hauntingly good, but they are completely overpowered by the butter-poached salt-pork wrapped chicken mystery meat stuffed cucumber abomination. For me, the strength of flavor in the "accompaniment" muscles that gorgeous, but extremely tiny piece of chicken in a wonderfully subtle sauce right off the plate. The salt-pork in particular was just far too bold for this use. Loved the chicken, but not the dish.



    Very interesting. I actually found the salt pork to be quite mild on my plate. One thing I will say is that the texture of the chicken forcemeat was quite odd, seemed like they had used some type of gum to stabilize. But overall, I didn't find the cucumber overbearing (aside from the size) in the least. c'est la vie.
  • Post #400 - June 3rd, 2011, 10:27 am
    Post #400 - June 3rd, 2011, 10:27 am Post #400 - June 3rd, 2011, 10:27 am
    NobleSquirrel wrote:
    kl1191 wrote:
    NobleSquirrel wrote:I figured I'd chime in and try and figure out what it is about the Chicken dish that people didn't like. It was my personal favorite dish, as I found the chicken incredibly flavorful and lush and the sauce was an incredible thing of beauty. When taken back to the kitchen and asking about the sauce, I was advised that there is in fact foie gras (I had asked if there was liver in it), just not so much as to make a point to tell the diner that. My real only detractor for the meal was probably the fact that there was a bit too much dressing under the salade irma, and I can live with that.


    Here's my problem with the "Chicken dish"...the chicken and sauce blanquette are hauntingly good, but they are completely overpowered by the butter-poached salt-pork wrapped chicken mystery meat stuffed cucumber abomination. For me, the strength of flavor in the "accompaniment" muscles that gorgeous, but extremely tiny piece of chicken in a wonderfully subtle sauce right off the plate. The salt-pork in particular was just far too bold for this use. Loved the chicken, but not the dish.



    Very interesting. I actually found the salt pork to be quite mild on my plate. One thing I will say is that the texture of the chicken forcemeat was quite odd, seemed like they had used some type of gum to stabilize. But overall, I didn't find the cucumber overbearing (aside from the size) in the least. c'est la vie.


    I thought that thing tasted like an awful lot like a pickle, especially with the little dill sprig on it (or at least I was pretty sure it was dill). An involved, meaty, tasty pickle, but still a pickle.
  • Post #401 - June 8th, 2011, 5:46 am
    Post #401 - June 8th, 2011, 5:46 am Post #401 - June 8th, 2011, 5:46 am
    Intriguingly, the same couple that left disappointed with us last month went again this past weekend and found the food much improved, but we can't figure out why. It can't be that that food was cooked "better," and they were pretty much served the same dishes and drinks, so it's perplexing. Their only theory was that we simply hit an off night the first time around, so for future strategy I think we're going to aim for the end of the menu cycle rather than the beginning, which gives them time to work out the kinks of each dish before the madness in the kitchen begins anew.

    Personally, I find their revelation a relief. I wasn't crazy that the first night was off, and it's good to know Next is likely as great as everyone but I thinks it is.
  • Post #402 - June 8th, 2011, 6:25 am
    Post #402 - June 8th, 2011, 6:25 am Post #402 - June 8th, 2011, 6:25 am
    Vitesse98 wrote:Intriguingly, the same couple that left disappointed with us last month went again this past weekend and found the food much improved, but we can't figure out why. It can't be that that food was cooked "better," and they were pretty much served the same dishes and drinks, so it's perplexing. Their only theory was that we simply hit an off night the first time around, so for future strategy I think we're going to aim for the end of the menu cycle rather than the beginning, which gives them time to work out the kinks of each dish before the madness in the kitchen begins anew.

    Personally, I find their revelation a relief. I wasn't crazy that the first night was off, and it's good to know Next is likely as great as everyone but I thinks it is.


    I would surmise that the food was the same both times, but the high expectations of the first meal caused the disappointment. I'm sure they went into the second meal with much subdued anticipation.
  • Post #403 - June 8th, 2011, 6:39 am
    Post #403 - June 8th, 2011, 6:39 am Post #403 - June 8th, 2011, 6:39 am
    One of your last chances at the Paris menu - 37 tables for dining this week up for grabs today at 10am.
  • Post #404 - June 8th, 2011, 7:25 am
    Post #404 - June 8th, 2011, 7:25 am Post #404 - June 8th, 2011, 7:25 am
    I would surmise that the food was the same both times, but the high expectations of the first meal caused the disappointment. I'm sure they went into the second meal with much subdued anticipation.


    Yeah, but because it was the same food, they had an explicit frame of recent reference. I can't imagine eating the exact same meal just a month apart would seem that different from just slightly altered expectations, but sure, maybe it was just that simple.
  • Post #405 - June 8th, 2011, 9:53 am
    Post #405 - June 8th, 2011, 9:53 am Post #405 - June 8th, 2011, 9:53 am
    BR wrote:One of your last chances at the Paris menu - 37 tables for dining this week up for grabs today at 10am.


    They appear to be gone. How did you discover this? It wasn't on Next's Facebook page or website.
    Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik
  • Post #406 - June 8th, 2011, 10:01 am
    Post #406 - June 8th, 2011, 10:01 am Post #406 - June 8th, 2011, 10:01 am
    GAF wrote:
    BR wrote:One of your last chances at the Paris menu - 37 tables for dining this week up for grabs today at 10am.


    They appear to be gone. How did you discover this? It wasn't on Next's Facebook page or website.


    It was actually on their Facebook, posted this morning.
  • Post #407 - June 8th, 2011, 10:09 am
    Post #407 - June 8th, 2011, 10:09 am Post #407 - June 8th, 2011, 10:09 am
    It is not on their main facebook page, but on their Wall.
    Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik
  • Post #408 - June 8th, 2011, 10:28 am
    Post #408 - June 8th, 2011, 10:28 am Post #408 - June 8th, 2011, 10:28 am
    GAF wrote:It is not on their main facebook page, but on their Wall.


    That's where they always post info about tickets going on sale that day -- posting it there makes it show up in the news feeds of those who "like" them.
  • Post #409 - June 8th, 2011, 10:46 am
    Post #409 - June 8th, 2011, 10:46 am Post #409 - June 8th, 2011, 10:46 am
    BR wrote:One of your last chances at the Paris menu - 37 tables for dining this week up for grabs today at 10am.


    Have they announced when they are rolling into the next menu?
  • Post #410 - June 8th, 2011, 10:52 am
    Post #410 - June 8th, 2011, 10:52 am Post #410 - June 8th, 2011, 10:52 am
    I believe the new menu starts July 6.
    -Josh

    I've started blogging about the Stuff I Eat
  • Post #411 - June 8th, 2011, 12:55 pm
    Post #411 - June 8th, 2011, 12:55 pm Post #411 - June 8th, 2011, 12:55 pm
    Does anyone have any inkling how the ticket sales will work the second time around? Will there be much of a lead before the new menu kicks in? Will it just be a first come/first served free for all like last time?
  • Post #412 - June 8th, 2011, 1:09 pm
    Post #412 - June 8th, 2011, 1:09 pm Post #412 - June 8th, 2011, 1:09 pm
    Nick said on Facebook that 90% of the tickets will be released all at once at a random, unannounced time in June. Sometime on or around June 1st he said it would be closer to the end of the month but gave no other indication or hints.

    The other 10% will be reserved for same day sales, Aviary walk-ins, and visiting chefs.

    The 90/10 info was posted back in early May so they may have changed their mind since then.
  • Post #413 - June 9th, 2011, 6:19 am
    Post #413 - June 9th, 2011, 6:19 am Post #413 - June 9th, 2011, 6:19 am
    BTW, this is what my friend wrote me about his second, superior Next experience. Needless to say, there was more going on than than just diminished expectations:

    "I can definitely say that it was in fact a qualitative difference, not just lowered expectations. As a specific example, the cucumbers in the chicken dish were not a salty, weirdly textured mess, and the chicken itself was clearly what it was intended to be, not just airline food. I think that was the difference. The first trip, I felt like I could see what they were going for with each dish, but often times the execution was ordinary. This trip, the dishes actually met what the concept clearly was going for, and the results were great. The bombe was actually a great dessert, the sole was more than a piece of white fish in a plate of sauce. Really good all around. And keep in mind, [my wife] actually had low expectations the first time, since the early reports she'd heard were that it was less spectacular than Alinea, where she'd eat every week if we could.

    Also, the GM said July 8th is the next menu launch."

    So there you go. Even Next can apparently have an off night, and I got it.
  • Post #414 - June 9th, 2011, 10:02 am
    Post #414 - June 9th, 2011, 10:02 am Post #414 - June 9th, 2011, 10:02 am
    Last mass sale of reservations (for Paris menu) at 11:30 this morning - 72 tables available
  • Post #415 - June 9th, 2011, 10:03 am
    Post #415 - June 9th, 2011, 10:03 am Post #415 - June 9th, 2011, 10:03 am
    With the exception of same-night tables and late night walk ins (and maybe a special finale night).
  • Post #416 - June 10th, 2011, 12:01 am
    Post #416 - June 10th, 2011, 12:01 am Post #416 - June 10th, 2011, 12:01 am
    I was lucky enough to have a great meal here tonight. Our servers were great - down-to-earth, cracked a few jokes, but consistently maintained a poised and professional demeanor.

    Everyone has dissected the courses here, so I will just add a few thoughts. French cuisine is really heavy...so many mousse textures, cucumbers poached in butter etc. On a few dishes, like the yellow sauce with the dover sole and the sauce covering the poached chicken breast, this was just too much for my palate. I recognize that this is just the style of cuisine, so I think I may enjoy future menus even more. I must say though that both the sole and chicken breast were cooked perfectly, I just would have preferred a sauce that wasn't quite so heavy.

    The hors d'oeuvres and pressed duck were my favorite parts of the meal. And I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the potatoes au gratin that accompanied the pressed duck, especially considering how I'd never had potatoes au gratin I liked. These potatoes were sliced so thinly though, the Comte cheese so flavorful, and the bread crumb topping so perfect that you couldn't not love it.

    The ice cream of the bombe ceylan was a little flavorless, especially when compared to the intensely espresso flavored cookie layer at the bottom. I think a part of me was left unfulfilled with the ice cream...so I felt the need to make a run to black dog gelato after dinner and order a pint of ice cream - pepper biscotti and sesame fig chocolate (the avocado cinnamon looked really tasty too!) and then, my life was complete.
  • Post #417 - June 16th, 2011, 2:08 pm
    Post #417 - June 16th, 2011, 2:08 pm Post #417 - June 16th, 2011, 2:08 pm
    I was lucky enough to get a table at Next on the Monday during the NRA show, when the team decided to open the restaurant on Monday and Tuesday of that week. I'd promised my decidely non-foodie, selectively-vegetarian Mom, who'd read about Next in the Trib, that if I was lucky enough to get a table, I'd bring her and my step-dad. They were utterly intrigued after reading about Next and really wanted to go, so when I landed the table, I immediately invited them.

    Here's a brief recap of our meal . . .

    Image
    Gougere


    Image
    Foie Gras-stuffed Brioche


    Image
    Tabletop Buffet of Hors d'Oeuvres


    Image
    Hors d'Oeuvres
    Pairing with Hors d'Oeuvres: Vincent Carre Brut Champagne


    Image
    Potage a la Tortue Claire
    Pairing with Turtle Soup: Domaine de Montbourgeau l'Etoile 'Cuvee Speciale' Jura, 2005
    We ended up ordering the reserve wine pairings for 3 of us, which were some of the best wine pairings I can remember ever having with a meal. My mom went with the non-alcoholic pairings, which she absolutely loved.


    Image
    Micro Boule-shaped Baguette


    Image
    Filet de Sole Daumont
    Pairing with Sole: Olivier Merlin 'La Roche Vineuse', Macon, 2008


    Image
    Supremes de Poussin
    Pairing with Chicken: Chateau de la Liquiere 'Les Amandiers', Faugeres, 2009


    Image
    Carre d'agneau
    Pairing with Lamb: Michel & Stephanie Ogier, 'La Rocine' Syrah Rhone, 2005

    After the lamb course, we were summoned to the kitchen, where chef de cuisine Dave Beran and sous chef Rene Caceres were waiting for us. They demo'd the preparation of Next's much lauded duck course, which we'd be having next . . .

    Image
    Using a knife and kitchen shears, Chef Beran carves the breast and leg quarters away from the carcass with astounding speed and precision


    Image



    Image
    While chef carves the duck, the foundation of the sauce cooks away on the burner to his left


    Image
    The carcass is then broken down further so that it can all fit in the press. Meanwhile, our duck meat has been removed by sous chef Rene for slicing


    Image
    The carcass is pressed to extract the blood and juices


    Image


    Image
    Chef Beran incorporates the 'pressings' into the sauce


    Image
    Rene returns the sliced duck to chef


    Image
    Here, temperature control is crucial. If too hot, the sauce will break. If too cold, it takes on a chalky texture.


    Image
    Our duck course right before it leaves the kitchen


    Image
    Caneton Rouennais a la Presse . . . now at the table


    Image
    Gratin de Pommes de Terre a la Dauphinoise
    Paring with Duck and Potatoes: Domaine Brusset 'Les Travers' Cairanne, 2006


    Image
    Salade Irma


    Image
    Sorbet Sauternes
    This vintage was selected precisely for its sweetness level, which produced a sorbet that needed nothing added to achieve the desired flavor and texture.


    Image
    Bombe Ceylan
    Pairing with Ice Cream: Fonseca Fine Tawny Port
    I didn't love this course the first time around but this time it was sensational. It was tempered beautifully and the complex but subtle aromas were alive on my palate when I ate it.


    Image
    Mignardises

    We absolutely loved this meal and as much as I enjoyed the previous meal I had during friends and family, this one showed a tremendous amount of fine-tuning, relative to the previous one. There was nothing I didn't really enjoy -- even the polarizing chicken course, which I thought was amazing. The lamb, which I didn't have the first time around, was nothing short of spectacular. This was lamb three ways: loin, belly and neck, iirc. (edited to add: wife tells me it was tongue, sweetbread and loin...whoops :oops:)

    My mom only skipped a couple of courses. The turtle soup and the lamb were just too daunting for her to deal with. My ultra-enthusiastic step-dad, of course, ate everything. It was funny listening to my mom after nearly every course, saying with some level of surprise, "wow, this is really great." She went into this meal genuinely interested but skeptical. She left a real fan. I don't think they'd appreciate Alinea but I'm glad we all got to experience Next together. I think she'll stop making fun of these guys now. :D :wink:

    =R=
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #418 - June 16th, 2011, 2:19 pm
    Post #418 - June 16th, 2011, 2:19 pm Post #418 - June 16th, 2011, 2:19 pm
    Duck press in action. Thanks for the action shots.





    What is the item on the right (in the foreground)?
    ronnie_suburban wrote:Image
  • Post #419 - June 16th, 2011, 2:21 pm
    Post #419 - June 16th, 2011, 2:21 pm Post #419 - June 16th, 2011, 2:21 pm
    yellow truffle wrote:Duck press in action. Thanks for the action shots.


    What is the item on the right (in the foreground)?
    ronnie_suburban wrote:Image

    Thanks. Pretty sure it was a Rabbit Boudin Blanc...very tasty.

    =R=
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #420 - June 16th, 2011, 5:47 pm
    Post #420 - June 16th, 2011, 5:47 pm Post #420 - June 16th, 2011, 5:47 pm
    That was a fun night, ronnie! We were at the Kitchen Table as you and your guests were in the kitchen...I have some great shots of you guys and Chef Beran. Your photos are great, as usual!

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