Roots Handmade Pizza

Roots Handmade Pizza

My long-time friend Patrick Barclay (veteran of the 24-hour Chowathon and currently owner/operator of a wood-fired pizza truck operating out of Dekalb) doesn’t like authentic Neapolitan pizza. He’s just not that enthusiastic about a pie that can have an almost soft and loose texture in the center and a firmer, crisper, sometimes charred crust. He just doesn’t like it; it’s not his kind of pizza; it’s too different from what we grew up with in Elmhurst during the sixties, and he’ll have none of it.

Roots opened day before yesterday, and it’s serving Quad City style pizza, which I suspect is also not going to appeal to everybody.

LTHer Dave Andrews (daveandrews3), who does public relations for the owners, invited me and some others to check out this alien breed of pie, which as far as I know is new to Chicago.

This regional pizza has a clear personality, kind of like the pizza served at Fong’s in Des Moines, and like Fong’s, it is probably going to have its zealous partisans as well as many others, who grew up with different kinds of pizzas, wondering, for instance, why anyone would pile Doritos on a pizza pie.

We started with something I almost never order: mozzarella sticks. I’ve had these apps before, of course (usually in Wisconsin bars) and have never been impressed by the rubbery tubes covered in usually uniform, machine-applied breading. Most sticks of mozzarella taste exactly the same. Munching into the fried mozzarella sticks at Roots with Nick Kindelsperger of Grub Street, we both kind of simultaneously concurred that they were the best mozz sticks we’d ever had. Granted, that may not seem like it’s saying much, but we all really enjoyed the irregularly shaped clumps of house-made cheese and breadcrumbs. The cheese is high-quality, almost fluffy and light, delicious; the breading well seasoned, crispy and flavorful. A worthy bite.



You may love a lighter crust, you may dig a deep-dish, but you have to hand it to the Quad City style pizza: it’s got character. I like crunch, and the malt-heavy dough of Roots’ pies is probably one of the crunchier styles of pizza you’re going to find.



Some portions of the edge (the prized bits for Quaddies) are maybe an inch thick and you can see that the pie is cut in a way uncharacteristic of Chicago pizza’s more grid-like cut pattern (which the great RST speculated was a reflection of our city’s highly organized street layout). The Quad City pizza is also cut with a scissors, because that’s the way it’s done in Davenport, Rock Island, and the Molines. Seems like a lot of work to scissor through the pie rather than quick-cut it with a rotary knife, but the kitchen here is going for authenticity, and I sincerely admire that.

I usually prefer wine with pizza, but the maltiness of the crust on the Quad City pizza mates well with beer. Roots has a very strong selection of regional beers on tap and in bottles.

The Big Mick seems a pie-based simulation of a McDonald’s hamburger, with seasoned ground beef, shredded lettuce and diced pickle. Couldn’t finish this one, but I’m not a fan of ground beef on a pizza pie, though I have another old friend who prefers it over all other toppings. De gustibus, etc.

The Taco pizza is probably the one that will raise the most eye brows.



This is house-made sausage with mozz and cheddar, covered with the aforementioned chips. We found that it perked up a bit with the packaged taco sauce…



…which is, of course, about as generic a salsa as one could imagine. The Wife thought they should have served a higher-quality taco sauce, but that’d be wrong because that’s not, so we’re told, how it’s done in the Quad Cities, and I feel it’s important to accept and appreciate those regional variations, even if the ways of others may sometimes frighten and confuse us.

Roots Handmade Pizza
1924 W. Chicago

That looks like one tasty pie. I have a friend who lives near Iowa City, and I always make sure to stop by one of the Quad City pizza stalwarts (Frank's, Harris, Happy Joe's, etc.) whenever I head out that way. I do quite enjoy that style of pizza (although I'm not as fond of the taco pizzas as many from that area are), and I'm looking forward to giving this place a try sometime soon. Wow, Chicago really has begun to offer quite the mosaic of pizza styles in the last five to ten years, hasn't it?

I'm guessing that taco pie is going to make its way on to one food network show

HI,

Rene G and Pigmon mentioned a Quad City pizza style with sauerkraut.

Last night, we had pizza for dinner. At the last moment, I tossed on some braised sauerkraut from Edelweiss before baking. It was pretty good for a novel topping. Do they offer a sauerkraut?

I thought for a moment it was sliced like John's in NWI or what Rene G witnessed in at least one Quad City pizzeria: One slice down the middle and many lateral cuts with each strip having a crust edge. I see your pizza was sliced in squares or what John's in NWI refers to as "party style."

Regards,

Cathy2 wrote:HI,

Rene G and Pigmon mentioned a Quad City pizza style with sauerkraut.

Last night, we had pizza for dinner. At the last moment, I tossed on some braised sauerkraut from Edelweiss before baking. It was pretty good for a novel topping. Do they offer a sauerkraut?

I thought for a moment it was sliced like John's in NWI or what Rene G witnessed in at least one Quad City pizzeria: One slice down the middle and many lateral cuts with each strip having a crust edge. I see your pizza was sliced in squares or what John's in NWI refers to as "party style."

The pizza was sliced exactly as Peter described, though it may look different in the photo.

There are many options for pizza toppings, but not sauerkraut: http://www.rootspizza.com/website/docum ... l-menu.pdf

gocubs88 wrote:I'm guessing that taco pie is going to make its way on to one food network show

If it did, I should hope they would do it from the progenitor of the that particular pizza, the Quad Cities' Happy Joe's. (Incidentally, the Happy Joe's Special pizza is bacon and sauerkraut--I have not had the opportunity to try it yet, though.)

Although I only visited the Quad Cities once I'm a fan of their pizza (specifically Frank's in Silvis, just east of East Moline) and am looking forward to trying Roots. This reminds me I need to post about the quadrumvirate of pizzerias we tried.

I'm not a fan of taco pizza but applaud Roots' dedication to authenticity evident in their sourcing of Heinz Taco Sauce packets.



That's a slice from Rock Island's Pizza & Subs, many peoples' choice for the finest taco pizza available in the Quad Cities. Believe it or not, there's actually a halfway decent slice of pizza under there somewhere.

It's quite surprising that Roots doesn't offer sauerkraut as a topping, de rigueur (usually with Canadian bacon) in the Quad Cities I thought. Here's a half sausage, half German (kraut and Canadian) from Harris Pizza (the original one in Rock Island).



I wouldn't consider sauerkraut an inspired ingredient but it works better than I expected. I need to post some pictures of a really weird pizza we had in Sterling IL. The people out around the Quad Cities march to a different drummer when it comes to pizza, that's for sure.

What's the deal with the Chicago style dog at Roots? Seven bucks for a Vienna hot dog with the usual toppings—that must be some kind of record. And is "sesame bun" simply a mistake or a perverse Quad Cities twist on Chicago's totemic food?

Rene G wrote:What's the deal with the Chicago style dog at Roots? Seven bucks for a Vienna hot dog with the usual toppings—that must be some kind of record. And is "sesame bun" simply a mistake or a perverse Quad Cities twist on Chicago's totemic food?

The $7 cost for the Chicago Dog includes a side of seasoned curly fries or housemade chips. The "sesame bun" is a menu misprint -- they use the traditional poppy seed bun.

(I'm the PR guy for Roots).

Rene G wrote: I need to post some pictures of a really weird pizza we had in Sterling IL.

Lemme guess, spaghetti pizza from Angelo's?

daveandrews3 wrote:The $7 cost for the Chicago Dog includes a side of seasoned curly fries or housemade chips. The "sesame bun" is a menu misprint -- they use the traditional poppy seed bun.

Thanks for the info. I figured "sesame bun" was a mistake but I wasn't at all certain. You just don't know what these Quad Cities guys might try next!

Blown Z wrote:

Rene G wrote: I need to post some pictures of a really weird pizza we had in Sterling IL.

Lemme guess, spaghetti pizza from Angelo's?

That's it!



I'll try to post more about Angelo's (and Frank's, Harris and Pizza & Subs) over in the Quad Cities Style Pizza thread (as I promised a long time ago).

Blown Z wrote:

Rene G wrote: I need to post some pictures of a really weird pizza we had in Sterling IL.

Lemme guess, spaghetti pizza from Angelo's?

That's it!



I figured that's what you were referring to, lol! It's a local favorite in Sterling.

Everything that's wrong with America, in the form of a pizza.

JeffB wrote:Everything that's wrong with America, in the form of a pizza.

Let's not forget the NYC classic - ziti pie.

David Hammond wrote: The Quad City pizza is also cut with a scissors, because that’s the way it’s done in Davenport, Rock Island, and the Molines.

As a QC native (Moline represent!) I feel compelled to tell you that East Moline is not a Quad City- Bettendorf is missing from your list!

I am looking forward to trying Roots. I have never completely bought into the QC pizza style, but have friends who swear by Harris, and my brother gets a taco pizza from Happy Joe's every time he comes home...

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=22468



The image is from the first post in the above topic.

John's predated Quad Cities pizza by 20 years...it makes one wonder if Quad Cities pizza has its "roots" in some Quad Cities residents making a visit or two to Calumet City in the '50s.

Vitesse,
Is that the Escher or the Mobius pizza in your post?

la* wrote:

David Hammond wrote: The Quad City pizza is also cut with a scissors, because that’s the way it’s done in Davenport, Rock Island, and the Molines.

As a QC native (Moline represent!) I feel compelled to tell you that East Moline is not a Quad City- Bettendorf is missing from your list!

I am looking forward to trying Roots. I have never completely bought into the QC pizza style, but have friends who swear by Harris, and my brother gets a taco pizza from Happy Joe's every time he comes home...

I spent a lot of time in Bettendorf at the Alcoa plant, so I, too, have a fondness for the place and FWIW, there sometimes seems to be some dispute about the constitution of the four cities:

Definition of QUAD CITIES: the cities of Davenport, Iowa, East Moline, Moline, & Rock Island, Illinois —sometimes considered to include Bettendorf, Iowa, instead of East Moline

From Merriam-Webster online: http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/quad%20cities

And then from Britannica, there's this: Quad Cities, complex of cities at the Iowa-Illinois border, on the Mississippi River, U.S. Despite its name, the region includes five main cities: Rock Island, Moline, and East Moline, Illinois, and Davenport and Bettendorf, Iowa. There are also several smaller contiguous communities. (http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/top ... uad-Cities)

If you have a definitive source for your attribution, I'd love to see.

Blown Z wrote:

Blown Z wrote:

Rene G wrote: I need to post some pictures of a really weird pizza we had in Sterling IL.

Lemme guess, spaghetti pizza from Angelo's?

That's it!



I figured that's what you were referring to, lol! It's a local favorite in Sterling.

Basta!

This thread begins with the confession that the pizzaiolo doesn't like Neapolitan pizza. Spaghetti pizza is the inevitable outcome of such a heretical sentiment.

jbw wrote:
Basta!

This thread begins with the confession that the pizzaiolo doesn't like Neapolitan pizza. Spaghetti pizza is the inevitable outcome of such a heretical sentiment.

My friend Patrick isn't involved with Roots, but my far-from-profound point here is that not all pizzas are going to please everyone. When you start with a baked bread platform upon which ANYTHING can be placed, it's likely some will be displeased.

Roots came up in conversation at a family cook-out today. My brother-in-law went to Roots not knowing anything about Quad City style and ordered what was to him the novelty of taco pizza. He didn't care for the combination of the ingredients--found it too weird--and took most of the pizza home. Today, he offered the leftovers to curious guests. There were no takers.



This cracked me up because, at the same cook-out, I discovered a package of cream cheese next to the usual condiments for our burgers, hot dogs and brats. I asked what the cream cheese was for, and I got a lesson on Seattle-style dogs. Sounded weird. But I followed our friend's instructions and constructed my very first one: toasted bun, smeared with cream cheese, topped with butterflied bratwurst, cabbage and onions. Easily one of the best things I've eaten lately, and I've been eating well. Food weirdness, it's all relative.

A couple of friends and I went to Roots for the Bears game yesterday and really enjoyed ourselves.

I purchased a deal for:
• Five sausages on a stick
• Choice of any two large pizzas
• Choice of any three appetizers
• Five Roots Special Bloody Marys
• Choice of any two pitchers of beer

If that sounds pretty excessive for just 5 people, it was. Worse still is that one person cancelled, so there were only four of us.

We arrived right in time for kick off, and the place was pretty empty. By halftime, not a seat was open - Even Blagojevich showed up with his bodyguard (who may or may not have been Fabio, the jury is still out).


Bloody Mary

nice kick though it tasted a tad watered down.

Mozzarella Sticks




Fried Shrimp


Lollipop Wings

All very tasty, all very large.

Their beers-on-tap list was very impressive, and we ended up going through 3 pitchers in our 3.5 hour stay - Goose Island's Sofie, Half Acre's Daisy Cutter, and Bells Brewery's Two Hearted Ale


Taco Pizza



What was ordered as a joke ended up being my favorite eat of the day. Everything was quality, and their crust was crispy and delicious. I'm not embarrassed by how much I enjoyed this pizza.

Canadian Bacon, Chopped Bacon, Sliced Granny Smith Apples, Pineapple



Alcohol may have had a play in this pizza's topping decision. Some of our toppings were just lost on me - I saw apple, but I never tasted it.

Smattering of Sausages







Italian, Bratwurst and Vienna sausages on a stick. I took a bite of each and fell asleep on the table.

In summation, I had a great time with great people watching a great game. Roots is not a restaurant I would bring up when faced with a dinner decision, but I can easily see this as a NFL Sunday destination.

I'm not at all familiar with Quad Cities-style pizza. Hell, I've only passed through the Quad Cities and I'm not sure I've eaten there. But I've been eagerly (and patiently) awaiting the opening of Roots Pizza in Lincoln Square (though I'm even more excited for Berkshire Room as I'm not sure there's even a decent cocktail in Lincoln Square right now). And I'm rather surprised that this place has received so little discussion here because it is rather unique.

In any event, original plans to have late night pizza at Piece fell through and so we ended up at Roots on Chicago Avenue late last night. Hell of a beer menu first - many choices, particularly many local choices.

As far as food goes, garlic monkey bread is pretty simple - crusty, very fluffy, rolls of sorts. Nothing special at all, but quite pleasing as most garlic bread tends to be. The tomato dipping sauce tasted right out of the 1970s with obvious notes of dried Italian seasonings. Is there anything wrong with that? I don't think so - I enjoyed it.

As far as pizza goes, I was so tempted to try the taco pizza. But something else caught my eyes - the McDowell, and the description which made it sound a lot like a Big Mac pizza . . . errrr . . . I mean, a Big Mc pizza, as in Coming to America. Don't know what I'm talking about? Well, take a break and watch this little bit:





And in true allegiance to McDowell's, there were no sesame seeds to be found. Most importantly though, I enjoyed this pizza. The crust, mostly the edges, are particularly crunchy and I like that. A distinct crunch is something I've always enjoyed about Lou Malnati's buttercrust. The pizza was topped with the ground beef and melted cheeses (cheddar and mozzarella), and then with cold, shredded lettuce and diced pickle. The Lewis dressing (served on the side) seemed more like a typical Thousand Island dressing but I had no problem with that. It tasted like a Big Mac on pizza crust and I enjoyed it. It's topped more heavily than most pizzas I thought, which somewhat affected the interior crust, but I didn't mind it so much in this case because I kept thinking of it in terms of a Big Mac meets pizza. Amazing what a golden (arches) opportunity McDonald's is missing here.

For more traditional pizza folks, you should know Roots has all of the typical pizza toppings too (and a lot of less ordinary toppings). I had a slice of one of those pizzas and liked that the sauce was well balanced, not sweet (a big pet peeve of mine). It also seems like there was a deliberate attempt with the more ordinary toppings not to overload the crust.

As I await Roots' (and Berkshire Room's) opening in Lincoln Square, I really like that the crust is unlike almost all others being offered in town, or at least most that I've tried. So I can definitely see Roots fitting into my rotation. And I look forward to trying more of the menu.

While the bar that will attach to Roots in Lincoln Square is from Ben Schiller, the creative mind behind the Berkshire Room, I don't think the new spot will be called that nor will it be all that similar in style or offerings (one food item, some focus on wine in addition to cocktails--according to his interview in the Red Eye). Either way, I can't wait!!!!

boudreaulicious wrote:While the bar that will attach to Roots in Lincoln Square is from Ben Schiller, the creative mind behind the Berkshire Room, I don't think the new spot will be called that nor will it be all that similar in style or offerings (one food item, some focus on wine in addition to cocktails--according to his interview in the Red Eye). Either way, I can't wait!!!!

You are correct and me neither!

=R=

I went to Roots probably five weeks ago. It seemed I hit the venue at the same time as everybody else.
So I walked between each side of the venue looking for a soon-to-be-vacated bar seat. I finally got one after about 25 minutes.
Was this wait the snag, or were my taste buds off? I opted for this appetizer . Its taste was bland.
And for the main course, I had this regular pizza . I had to douse it with additional grated cheese in order to finish it.
Thankfully, its beers were solid and satisfying. But, if I was basing where to go in Ukranian Village off this trip, I will choose somewhere else the next time.

Does anyone have any indication of the approximate date of this opening? I haven't heard much since last summer and couldn't find anything on the internets.

Suiname wrote:Does anyone have any indication of the approximate date of this opening? I haven't heard much since last summer and couldn't find anything on the internets.

They told me they're shooting to open before the end of September.

By the way, I tried the taco pizza last night. I prefer the McDowell but the taco pizza wasn't bad. The sausage has that taco seasoning flavor you probably recall from your childhood (think El Paso brand). I particularly like the side of Heinz taco sauce. My lone complaint is that there's just a little too much cheese and that masks some of that taco flavoring, but it's still decent. And once you dig through all of the toppings, don't ignore the crust. It's quite unique, barely sweet, and pretty flavorful. I skipped the side of sour cream so perhaps I didn't get the full 1980s taco effect, but I still had fun.

I'm a big pizza fan and 8, maybe 9, times out of 10 this is not the style of pizza I'll seek. But otherwise, I'll happily chow down on this. I can see where taco pizzas and cheeseburger pizzas would just not appeal to some people, but the one thing that cannot be ignored here is that the crust in particular is quite unique and delicious and worth giving a try.

BR wrote:I'm a big pizza fan and 8, maybe 9, times out of 10 this is not the style of pizza I'll seek. But otherwise, I'll happily chow down on this. I can see where taco pizzas and cheeseburger pizzas would just not appeal to some people, but the one thing that cannot be ignored here is that the crust in particular is quite unique and delicious and worth giving a try.

Pretty much my feelings. Certainly not my favorite pizza in Chicago (and I prefer a couple Quad Cities places for this style) but quite enjoyable for a change of pace.



I wouldn't necessarily recommend the taco pizza but I enjoy their crust with almost any toppings. I'm surprised to find myself (weakly) defending taco pizza but even more surprised that I enjoy their mozzarella sticks (a generally despicable appetizer).





House-made mozzarella and well-seasoned breading make a big difference. Good salads and beer selection, too.

Roots Handmade Pizza
1924 W Chicago Av
Chicago
773-645-4949
http://www.rootspizza.com/