Annals of the Not Bad at All #2: Vinnie's Sub Shop
You open a place called Vinnie's at 1204 W. Grand Ave., selling subs, Italian flag colors, you're inviting comparison with one of the most
celebrated sandwiches in Chicago.
Especially when your slogan is, "We Dare to Compare."
So how does Vinnie's sub compare to the Bari sub? Well, the hope is clearly that a lot of people, seeing the lines at Bari, will pop over here. And there's plenty of reason to expect that they might do it a second time.
The meat and cheese, straight up, seem Bari quality. Maybe not the same, but they have at least a dollop of old world funkiness, not the blandness of American processed meats (which the Gallery Cafe sub mostly had, hence my suggestion to pick your own meats carefully).
Toppings, I have to say, were a little sparser. I would ask for extra oil and vinegar, maybe extra tomato next time.
Bread was... almost there. But I could tell it wasn't quite the coal-fired D'Amato's bread you get at Bari. I asked, "Is this D'Amato's?" "Yes, but it's the sons', not the father's," the lady behind the counter said. (There are two D'Amato's bakeries on Grand Ave., separately run, very similar but only the father's has a coal-fired oven.) "A lot of people have told us they prefer it, it's not as hard as the other."
Well, it takes all kinds. For me, what lifts a Bari sub into transcendence is the fresh from the oven, crispy, ever so slightly burnt-tasting coal-fired bread. Apparently there are people who think a Bari sub would be better if the bread tasted a little more like it was from Jewel. We must try to understand them, and pity them.
So: Vinnie's Sub Shop. Not the best sub shop on Grand Ave. But a pretty good, 80%-there imitation of the best sub shop on Grand Ave. and possibly in the known universe. Will overflow from Bari carry it to success, or should it have opened almost anywhere else in the city, since almost anywhere else in the city it would be the best sub shop in the area? Time will tell.
Vinnie's Sub Shop
1204 W. Grand Ave.
312-738-2985
Bari Foods
1120 W. Grand Ave.
312-666-0730
D'Amato's #1 Italian and French Bakery Co. (the father's)
1124 W. Grand Ave.
312-733-5456
D'Amato's Bakery (the sons')
1332 West Grand Ave.
312-733-6219
James Ward on D'Amato's.