Terzo Piano, Art Institute

Just back from a late lunch at Terzo Piano, the new Tony Mantuano restaurant in the Art Institute's Modern Wing. As expected, it was fine, but rather pricey. The service, too, was just fine. Not great. I think it's a place to go when the weather's rotten and you're spending much of the day at the museum. I probably wouldn't go again otherwise. It's not a destination restaurant. But some of the food was good.

Before we ordered, the server explained that many of the dishes on the menu had been changed - - porcini are no longer in season, so the pasta dish is now carbonara(ish). One of the fish dishes used a different fish. One of the flatbreads had different ingredients. I understood from the server that this was because the chef is using seasonal ingredients. I could see, though, how some might be irritated with all the substitutions and not understand that the switches were to make the food better. Especially considering how beat up our paper menus were, it's surprising they don't print new ones as the menu changes - - or make the dishes likely to change be specials and explained verbally.

Step mom and I shared three dishes. The highlight was the antipasto platter: La Quercia prosciutto and coppa, Russo soppressata, Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese, olives, marinated shaved celery with red onions, and pickled cauliflower, carrots, and onions. The veggies were solid - - the celery had some really nice heat, while the cauliflower mix was in oil, reminiscent of a giardinera. Cheese was good, but not great. Decent rolls were provided to enjoy with the platter. The prosciutto, as expected, was excellent. Both the coppa and soppressata were good, but a little mild for my tastes. At $15, not cheap, but would make a nice light meal.

We also enjoyed the olive oil whipped smoked whitefish. Another winner. I'd get this again.

Finally, we had the "What came first salad." Major blah. The medium boiled chicken egg was closer to hard boiled. Boring. The chicken was dry and tasteless. The dressing didn't have enough zing. They called this a "main course" salad. Sure, if you also have your own starter and a dessert you might be able to approach fullness. It was bigger than an average starter salad, but really not filling enough for a main course. The non-salad mains around the table (burger, fish) appeared much more substantial. I'd recommend strongly against this salad.

I didn't get to try the other dishes, but did steal a french fry from one of the burger eaters. Way better than I'd expected, even though it was fairly lukewarm by the time I'd tasted it.

Terzo Piano
Art Institute, Modern Wing
Entrance on Monroe

Ronna

(Didn't see a dedicated thread for this restaurant. Mods, feel free to move, as appropriate.)

Thanks for the report. I've been very curious to hear about the food at Terzo Piano. I spend a lot of time in museums but historically have avoided eating at them. Museum food is rarely appealing to me. However, my very pleasant experiences of dining at the (no longer new) MoMA in New York helped spark a new curiosity.

The only reason I've really stayed away from Terzo Piano is that I found the name immediately annoying. I'm actually a big fan of Renzo Piano, but the restaurant name crosses the line into over-glorification for me. I definitely won't rush there now.

A couple of weeks ago my sister and my niece and nephew were visiting. We walked the bridge from MP and totally loved playing and posing on the terrace and checking out the Lurie Garden and the city beyond. (The terrace is free and open to the public, so go, it is gorgeous.) We then decided that a glass of wine for the grown ups and an soda for the kids would make everyone even happier. So I went to the hostess stand and said as much. Meaning, I said, we don't want to eat we just want to have a glass of wine. The hostess then told me with great authority that the entire restaurant was booked and couldn't accommodate us at this time. The restaurant had three out of say, 30+ tables sat. (It was 5:00 ish.) My sister, came up, I told her the rap and she said, "But they have a bar." And lo and behold, I turned my neck to the left and saw a bar. And then a section in front of it with high bar tables with fancy modern high bar stools. So my sis went up and asked the hostess about sitting at the bar or in the bar area. And the hostess said, "Oh, oh, um, well. Okay." And she then sat us at one of the high tables. So I don't know if she was just on full blown Stepford Wife hostess action or not liking our look, but it was freaky.

The wine we had was lovely, especially a rose with sage "cocktail" my niece had. The white, bright, uber modern setting was what we wanted, so we were happy. But the trippy, dippy hostess action totally made the level of whatever it is they are trying to achieve just plummet.

I doubt we will going there to eat, not because of the hostess per se but because it all seemed really forced and pricey. I would go back with a friend to have a glass of wine, if they will allow us in. But ultimately, I foresee a cafeteria with a super great view in 2 years or less.

bjt

happy_stomach wrote:Thanks for the report. I've been very curious to hear about the food at Terzo Piano. I spend a lot of time in museums but historically have avoided eating at them. Museum food is rarely appealing to me. However, my very pleasant experiences of dining at the (no longer new) MoMA in New York helped spark a new curiosity.

The only reason I've really stayed away from Terzo Piano is that I found the name immediately annoying. I'm actually a big fan of Renzo Piano, but the restaurant name crosses the line into over-glorification for me. I definitely won't rush there now.

Is it located on the 3rd floor? That's what terzo piano means. I'd be more irritated in having to overlook the "Bluhm Family Terrace" (kudos to all the anonymous donors that enabled the Art Institute to not have to "name" the Modern Wing in the usual form of obnoxious display).

Museum food is rarely appealing to me.

That's pretty funny!! Generally right up there typically with department store food! Now gas station food, there's a genre.....

Johnsoncon wrote:Is it located on the 3rd floor? That's what terzo piano means. I'd be more irritated in having to overlook the "Bluhm Family Terrace" (kudos to all the anonymous donors that enabled the Art Institute to not have to "name" the Modern Wing in the usual form of obnoxious display).

Yeah, it is the third floor, hence the cutesy-ness or play of the name. I guess I have more tolerance for patronage than starchitecture.

Dish wrote:“The name is something that I came up with. All the names that were on the table were missing the mark. Think about it. Restaurant MW. That’s just not exciting, is it?” –Tony Mantuano on Terzo Piano

http://www.chicagomag.com/Radar/Dish/March-2009/I-Dub-Thee-Terzo-Piano/

Such profound insight, no?

I respectfully disagree with several things here. Fundamentally I would argue that this is a destination for the following reasons:
1. The space is unique: The copious amount of modulated natural light, the very high ceilings, and the white furnishings create a very elegant, but casual atmosphere unlike anything in Chicago. The outside space with its tensile roof is also nice.
2. The view and adjacent sculpture garden can't be matched in Chicago. How many restaurants are there in the middle of a lakefront park with a stunning view of the skyline? For a bonus, it sits on one of the greatest art collections in the world.
3. The food is surprisingly good and fits the venue. I sampled every item my table of five ordered and it was all very good to excellent. For example: I had a whitefish with a sesame crust and eggplant puree topped off with a smear of chermoula. The crust was relatively thick and had a fantastic crunch. It gave the dish a substantial, almost meaty quality. The fattiness of the crust was offset by the creamy puree and this spice of the chermoula cut through everything nicely. I do agree with the comments about the appetizers and the desserts were also excellent.
4. The other comments about names and star architects are irrelevant. (I would still add that, despite the fact that the Modern Wing may not be his strongest work, Renzo Piano deserves to be a "star" - unlike say, Lindsey Lohan - for his numerous remarkably thoughtful and rigorously detailed projects.)
I encourage everyone to make a day of it, see the museum, visit the bean, and try it yourself.

Duane: I am very much in agreement with you on points 1 and 2. I can't comment on 3 and beyond because we did not eat any food there. But they are going to have to seriously step it up and figure out how to deal with the crowds (who are literally flowing in there every day) who are good intentioned meets clueless tourists who are honestly stumbling onto the restaurant. People are approaching the hostess stand and asking how to get back to the Bean and if they can buy a hot dog for their kid and where the bathroom is. Not what they expected but the front of house folks need to warm it up and be friendly to all.

bjt

My overall impression of Terzo Piano from my lunch today was that it's a much lesser version of Cafe Spiaggia. I wouldn't return, although the location is definitely convenient for museum-goers.


Focaccia / Terzo Piano by TrackBelle, on Flickr

The focaccia to start our meal, one version with herbs, one with cheese, was not as good as Cafe Spiaggia's and neither was the olive oil.


Tomato Cucumber Gazpacho / Terzo Piano by TrackBelle, on Flickr

This chilled tomato cucumber soup was a big disappointment, from the sloppy presentation to the one-dimensional too-salty flavor. This would be better suited as a pasta sauce than a soup.


Peach Basil Iced Tea / Terzo Piano by TrackBelle, on Flickr

This peach basil iced tea was the highlight of my meal at Terzo Piano. They make their own peach basil puree to add to the iced tea and it tastes truly spectacular. I love the puree texture at the bottom, but I'm a girl who likes pulp in my orange juice.


Caesar Salad Spinoff / Terzo Piano by TrackBelle, on Flickr

Red leaf and romaine lettuce salad with grilled chicken, summer squash and almond-mint dressing. The dressing was a creamy yogurt texture and there was a salt/spice sprinkled on top, which consequently brought out the flavor of the peach iced tea. This was a pretty decent salad, but worth $17? Not a chance.


Margherita Flatbread / Terzo Piano by TrackBelle, on Flickr

This Margherita flatbread was just average - nice whole milk mozzarella, but I would have liked more intense tomato flavor or more basil as well. Made me long for Spacca Napoli.


Pesto Calamari Spaghetti / Terzo Piano by TrackBelle, on Flickr

Spaghetti with grilled calamari, three-herb pesto, orange, arugula, pine nuts. Nothing horribly wrong, but just uninspired compared to Cafe Spiaggia's pasta dishes.


Lemon Chiffon Panzanella / Terzo Piano by TrackBelle, on Flickr

Lemon chiffon panzanella with summer berries and extra virgin olive oil ice cream. The panzanella was just too hard and stale, not enough soaking up of berry juice for my taste. And the ice cream? Nary a trace of olive oil flavor and too sweet. I was hoping for something more savory.

Take my data point with a grain of salt because it's more than a year old, but...I too was underwhelmed. The flavor of everything was pastel.

I seem to recall my soup arriving sloshed as in Hurdler4eva's picture. Makes me think the problem is not careless servers so much as the wrong kind of bowls for a place where the distance that needs to be traveled from kitchen to table is as long and hustle-bustle as it is here.

My carbonara came out with the egg done hard and it took them 15 minutes to replace it. Once replaced, it was very bland. Needed pepper and it took 5 more minutes to get that.

Art Institute restaurant Terzo Piano closes for month-long renovation

http://www.chicagotribune.com/dining/ct ... story.html