A couple weekends ago, as Fall was just announcing itself, we got the hankerin for some beers that are not available in Chicago (and this was BEFORE we knew Bells was pulling out) and headed north of the border.
Our first destination was Monroe, home of Huber Brewing and the Baumgartner Cheese Shop. On the way to this place we passed through Beloit and noted a few things. 1) Gas was the cheapest of anywhere on our trip at 3.19 per gallon (it was 3.75 in chicago/bucktown at that point). 2) there is a Woodmans, and 3) just outside of town in the way to Monroe, there was a Mennonite Store (Kaufmanns). Don't know if anyone has been. This was missed opportunity #1.
In Monroe, we headed directly to Baumgartners for a half pint of Huber bock and a limburger sandwich. This comes with red onions on soft rye bread. Slightly pungent. The bite that was balanced nicely by the chili (which had big chunks of tender beef and tomato). A great way to start the day.


This was breakfast. Baumgartners is always packed with locals. People of every age fill the tavern in the back. We picked up some 5 year old cheddar on the way out the door, and it comes with instructions on how to keep it in a wonderful old timey font. (These cards may even actually still be PRINTED with a printing press).

Sadly, when Griffin was buying his cheese our meter expired and we got stuck with a parking ticket. The cost -- a whopping $2. Payable to a letter box attached to the meter. Too quaint not to pay! We ponied up and supported this little town with beer and strong cheese.
Also located near Monroe is the original Brennan's (an overgrown farmstand with a selection of cheese and preserves) and the Alp n Dell retail store for Roth Kase cheese.
From Monroe, we drove north to New Glarus. The brewery was our next destination (New Glarus beers are no longer available in Illinois). For a couple of dollars, you can get a taster set of beers and get to keep the tasting glass. Samples that day were of Yokel, Spotted Cow, Fat Squirrel, and Raspberry Tart. I had forgotten how the Raspberry Tart is a tad more sour and complex than Lindemans. By noon, we had bought our first case of beer.

Missed opportunity #2 was that there was probably a good sausage destination in New Glarus that we missed. Between Ruef's Meat Market and Hoesly's we might have found some interesting sausage...
Our next stop was for lunch outside of Madison at a fine barsto-raunt named Quivey's Grove. The bar is in the old stable and the restuarant in the barn. The woodwork is gorgeous. Split beam rafters and even leather straps around the joints. Pretty cool.
Plus they have a very nice tap selection of local microbrews and we split a very good sandwich (pork loin with apple cherry sauerkraut, swiss cheese and a cranberry mustard. The side was a dish of garlic smashed potatoes that was a cross between german potato salad and mashed potatoes. Large chunks of red potatoes with garlic and bacon? and sour cream. Wonderful.




Once again, we passed over a sausage stop, the Bavaria Sausage Company just down the road, in our haste to make to Quivey's before the end of lunch (turned out not to matter -- the waitress was very friendly and happy to serve us even though they were clearly in between lunch and dinner times).
For the remainder of the afternoon we wound around the Madison beltway stopping at the better beer stores (Steve's on Mineral Point, Woodman's on Gammon, a quick stop at the Capital Brewery in Middleton, Steve's on University, ending at Riley's in town).
For a late afternoon snack, we had a oyster po boy on our way into downtown Madison at the New Orleans take out place on Monroe Street. The oysters were tasty, but the bread to seafood ratio was off, and the little fried jewels were overwhelmed by the roll.
Our second midafternoon snack was at Pel Meni on State Street (around 505), and this was a true hit. The menu is simple -- meat or potato dumplings, spicy or not, $5 per order. We got half meat, half potato, all spicy. They come with free sour cream and slices of soft rye bread. The meat were (of course) better. The spicy sauce was like a curried buffalo sauce (hot sauce, curry and cilantro) and had a real kick to it. I can see how these might become addictive.
Our evening in Madison was spent at the beer destinations, starting at Great Dane which was somewhat dissappointing in their beer selection (nothing very distinctive, so many colors of hoppy water). We headed down the hill to Comeback Inn and Essen House. The Comeback Inn had a great beerlist. And the Essen House had another great beerlist, including TWO doppelbocks. The Comeback Inn has a similar feel to Resi's -- a local German pub. Could have been anywhere in Lancaster/Berks Co PA or Wisconsin. Free popcorn and peanuts and blue collar feel.
The Essen House is the restaurant on the other side of a swinging door from the Comeback Inn and it has a great beerhall atmosphere. On this particular weekend night it was very festive. The place was full and rowdy. Alot like a German beer hall, a little more like a German beerhall with some American tourists -- but still very very fun. I got carried away and convinced Griffin we should have dinner here. This was a poor choice.
The rouladen were described as thin steak and bacon wrapped around sausage. How could you go wrong with that? well they came out looking like two turds on a plate, with cardboard spaeztle and no sauce. The "french onion soup" was barely dishwater. I desparately need to get back to Laschets to settle the cravings this place left in its wake. So don't eat here. But it is a worthwhile stop on a Madison beer tour for BEER.
Following our little trip to Germany, we headed up the hill for a nightcap at a new place called Maduro. This is a cigar bar with top shelf liquor and the best beer list we saw in Madison. We had a wonderful oak aged Pilgram's Dole from New Holland, and also a Bell's "Hell Hath no Fury" a strong dark belgian ale. A nice end to the evening.
The next day was the Farmer's Market where we walked around in a circle and bought squash, cheese and sausages. Tasted "ground berries", a tomatillo relative, that had a nutty flavor. Purchased a lovely "bandaged cheddar" and some lamb skin wieners. And rhubarb preserves. And apples. We fortified with a pasty from Myles Teddywedger's Cornish Pasty. Turned out to be like a calzone (rather than a sausage roll). But very good pastry and good filling to pastry ratio (i.e. a lot of filling).
We then headed out of town toward the airport to stop at the new location of Ale Asylum (largely the old brewing/staff of now defunct Angelic Brewing). The new digs are a slightly too-hip-for-madison warehouse location near the airport. Some good beers can happen here. On this trip, we sampled a few belgian styles which had some good points.
Further east we stopped at the tasting room of the Tyranena brewery (another warehouse, which in this case is really their bottling plant and warehouse) and were treated to their selection of beers which we cannot get in Illinois. Although we just missed their barleywine, the Rocky's Revenge was a fine brown ale. They also know their hops with beers like Hop Whore and Bitter Woman from Hell. Very nice people at the brewery and the tasting room is clearly a favorite bar for locals. We stayed the night out here at a motel on Rock Lake in town. I didn't realize the intrigue of the area until we got back, but there are supposed to be old indian structures (stone teepees/pyramids) in the lake and at a nearby park (Aztalan).
On Sunday morning we got up early and made it to Mickey's Dairy Bar (in Madison) before the crowds. It did not disappoint in either food or ambiance. The double smoked bacon was magnificent. We picked up some at Woodmans on our way out of the state (probably not the same brand, but still delicious). Also a reuben omelet that was clearly made with homemade corned beef (big chunks). The couple next to us was squeaky clean, she with red hair and freckles, he a blond with a cleanly pressed packers jersey. In Wisconsin is that proper church attire? From all other indications, they were headed to church after the meal... Definitely a trip back to the 50s. And great food.
Of course, there is tons we missed on this theme in this short trip. Nearby is another brewery, Lake Louie, that would have been a fine destination as well and is another beer not available in IL to look for.
We did bring home a fine array of beers and cheeses. We were less successful in the sausage department (especially with finding much in the way of lamb or game/venison). So if anyone can recommend Ruef's Meat Market or Hoesly's or Bavaria Sausage Company, or another one along this route, please chime in! I lobbied to return via Milwaukee but was overruled.
We will certainly explore these on our next trip, but as always we'd love to have the benefit of others knowledge!
Monroe
Baumgartner's Cheese Store and Tavern
1023 16th Avenue
Monroe, WI 53566-1764
(608) 325-6157
Brennan's
701 8th Street
Monroe, WI 53566
(608) 325-4433
Alp N Dell
657 Second Street in Monroe, Wisconsin, 53566
New Glarus
New Glarus Brewery
http://www.newglarusbrewing.com/
Cty Trk W & Hwy. 69
New Glarus, WI 53574
(608)527-5850
Madison
Quivey's Grove
6261 Nesbitt Road, Madison, WI 53719
(608) 273-4900
New Orleans Take Out
1517 Monroe St, Madison, 53711
Pel Meni
5050 State St. Madison
Myles Teddywedger's Cornish Pasty
On the corner of State at the Capital Square.
Mickey Dairy Bar
1511 Monroe Street Madison
Essen House/Come Back In
http://www.essen-haus.com/essenhaus.htm
514 East Wilsonstrasse
Madison, Wisconsin 53703
Maduro
http://www.madurocigarbar.com/
117 E Main St
Ale Asylum
3698 KINSMAN BLVD | MADISON WI 53704
http://www.aleasylum.com/
Tyranena
Tyranena Brewing Company LLC
http://www.tyranena.com/
1025 Owen Street
PO Box 736
Lake Mills, WI 53551