Let me say it upfront: It's not Buffalo's Beef on Weck. It's not Baltimore's Pit Beef. It's not LA's French Dip. It's not Philly's Cheese Steak. And it
certainly is not Chicago Italian Beef. But Lion's Choice is St. Louis' roast beef sandwich. It's not a bad one, at that.
photo.JPG According to the company website, Lion's Choice began as "Brittany Beef" in Ballwin, MO, in 1967. They are a chain with franchise opportunities in Missouri and Oklahoma. They tinkered with the name a bit, eventually coming up with "Lion's Choice," but the basic recipe has remained the same. Lion's choice roasts top round (medium-rare to medium, well-done upon request) and slices it paper-thin, just as the sandwiches are assembled. Let's take a closer look:
photo.JPGThe beef itself reminded me of my first Arby's sandwich, back in 1971. At that time, Arby' s used intact beef, rather than industrial deli meatpaste. I remember it as good and cheap enough for a big group of high school kids. What reminded me of that Arby's sandwhich was that Lion's Choice beef is sliced very thin, such that it comes apart. The beefy taste was there, but I missed the heft of a beef on weck or a pit beef. Lion's Choice beef has a slight crust of seasoned salt at the edges, and their typical way of serving the sandwich is with a shake of this spiced salt and without condiments. The buttered and toasted bun they promise had no indication of either buttering or toasting. The bun was the sandwich's weakest aspect. Hot "au jus" comes from a dispenser and tastes like beef bouillon. A sauce bar offers hot horseradish sauce (mayo-based), chipotle ranch dressing (just plain wrong on two counts), barbeque sauces ("sweet and smoky" and "tangy") and ketchup. There are also pickles and onions available. I got swiss cheese on my 41/2-ounce sandwich, which was the large size. Iced tea and sweet tea are available in addition to the standard fountain drinks.
photo.JPGThe exteriors of the restaurants scream "cafeteria" to me, and the signage on the Lion's Choice near me omits mention of roast beef. I was surprised to learn that this is a fast-food place. It's a decent one. They offer hot ham and turkey (not tried) as well as a full menu of concretes (St. Louis' version of the milkshake.) The inclusion of baked potatoes and bagged celery and carrot sticks on the menu are nice touches. I didn't try the fries, but the chili was standard-issue Hormel. I'd eat here again, and I'd recommend Lion's Choice as an alternative to other fast food spots on a highway-ride through Missouri or Oklahoma.
Man : I can't understand how a poet like you can eat that stuff.
T. S. Eliot: Ah, but you're not a poet.