jpo wrote:The $35 entree was the roast duck.

The air conditioning system wasn't broken, it was just inadequate. We were dining with friends who had picked Nightwood for their birthday dinner, so I didn't feel it was appropriate to leave. I retain my position that for those prices, they should have an adequate cooling system. I don't need it to be cold - often restaurants go overboard with ac, but comfortable would have been nice. It's not unusual to have weather in the 90's in the summer in Chicago. And I found the "it's a hot day" to be a pretty crappy response - there was no apology implied.

It's actually NOT a "crappy response". A/C systems all over the city have been struggling to keep up with the summer heat we've had. Different parts of the country install different systems depending on their expected loads. My office was very uncomfortable last week. So much so that the owners bought new (upgraded) units that were installed yesterday. I walked into Gemini Bistro last week and walked right back out because their system couldn't cool the place down. It happens.

Not to pile on, but the city was browning out during that heatwave. For instance, I was unable to run my clothes dryer or my microwave at full steam. Basically, the power I was allotted was enough to run my air con and my lights. Several restaurants I dined at during our heat wave, including Rootstock and Davanti Enoteca, were just plain hot. None of the other restaurants I frequented were air-con cool, just barely comfortable. So Nightwood's cooling system may very well have not been the result of their stupidity installing an improper system, but the city holding back on enough power for it to operate optimally. I kind of like the heat, so I considered it a fun adventure, and adjusted my eating habits (mostly cold food) and drinking habits (chilled rosés) accordingly.

It's understandable that this was perhaps beyond their control. Nonetheless, hearing "it's a hot day" is different than "I'm really sorry, the city is cutting our power and we've done everything we can, is there anything I can do to make your experience more comfortable"? It was the attitude that bothered me. And, since we had so much heat for so many days, and the menu was mostly hot dishes, I don't think they're thinking about the total experience for customers. And, when it came down to it, the food was mostly unexciting, which is the one thing they can't explain away.

jpo wrote:And, when it came down to it, the food was mostly unexciting, which is the one thing they can't explain away.

Interestingly (or maybe not), I find the exact opposite to be true at Nightwood. I think they take a lot of risks and even the dishes that aren't quite as successful are still exciting. I also think it's exciting, in a food-geek sort of way, that they regularly source, combine and serve a host of ingredients that aren't served at too many -- if any -- other places around town.

I'm a fan and obviously you're not. I don't mean to belabor the point because we've all got different tastes but reading your comment made me realize some things I really love about Nightwood -- some things that distinguish it -- that I failed to express adequately upthread.

=R=

jpo: Ronnie and aschie30 have good points, and I have been a fan of Nightwood since they opened and have never had a bad meal there (I have eaten at the bar, dining room (upstairs and down), kitchen counter, and patio and back again. If you're going to knock the place because your server wasn't quite adequate in his/her reason for the temperature of the dining room, then you really should just go to another restaurant (call ahead to make sure their A/C is cranked up). You're being a bit too judgmental (in my humble opinion) and having you not go there means more delicious Nightwood food for me! I would, of course, ask you to give it another go...maybe after September when you can be assured of the ambient temperature being to your liking. Then again, you may be missing the best of chef Vincent's summer fruit and vegetable selections. Sorry you didn't enjoy your time there.

wino66: I'm not sure how this one point I made in what was a very mixed review of Nightwood got so blown out of proportion. Although an annoyance, the heat and the server's reaction to it were not the reason I would ultimately not go back. If you read my original review, there were a few things I liked very much about the food. The carrots were great. The duck leg was truly fabulous. However, the chicken was almost raw, the duck breast was way overcooked, and my foie gras and pasta courses were average at best. I'm happy you and Ronnie enjoy Nightwood so much. It's a worthy endeavor that deserves support. For me, however, there other other places in the city I'd rather try than go back to Nightwood.

Yes, the heat issue does seem to be over-focused. Again, sorry your dinner experience wasn't great and yes, there are thousands of restaurants in our fair city. I just hate to see someone give up on a restaurant after one bad visit. I am all about second chances, unless the place is obviously sub-par and looks to be violating health regulations...like a taqueria my wife and I went to the other night in our neighborhood. No bueno!

I had another very nice dinner at Nightwood last weekend -- again at the counter that surrounds the kitchen. I apologize in advance for the low picture quality. I was a bit tipsy . . .


Fried Meyer Lemons | house pickles
The kitchen sent this amuse out for us. Light, tart and crispy. I'm not sure what the sauce was.



Foie Gras | lobster tail, grapes, bread
This was one of the most insane -- and delicious -- plates I've ever been served. The kitchen sent us this Hudson Valley A foie gratis. As if the 2 huge pieces of foie weren't enough, the lobster tail was the clincher. Lobster aside, this is my favorite preparation of foie...seared and served with some bread and a bit of fruit. I have to say this Hudson Valley foie was spectacular; perfectly balanced between meaty and minerally. It was the best foie I've had in a long time and the kitchen nailed it. 6 of us split this gargantuan portion. I'm guessing that the generosity here is because of my winning personality...and the fact that I brought a bottle of Cazadores Reposado for the kitchen, which seemed to be well-received.



Biscuits
Nightwood's signature breadstuff.



Butcher & Larder Smoked Ham | summer apples, cucumber, almond, lemon, whipped butter, Pamela's Raisin-Nut bread
I loved Rob Levitt's smoked ham and the accompaniments were great. I'd read about the summer apples and expected them to be unpalatably tart but they were lightly sweet, too and really delicious.



Heirloom Tomatoes | goat cheese, basil, aged balsamic, rich olive oil, sea salt
We were informed that the Burrata this dish originally included had been 86'd and goat cheese would be substituted. We stuck with it and were glad we did. In a season during which I've enjoyed some tremendous tomatoes, these were among the very best.

Next, not pictured, was a "really, really spicy" jalapeno, stuffed with goat cheese and prosciutto. It was indeed really, really spicy. It was coated with bread crumbs and (I'm guessing) fried. It was very tasty and in spite of the heat, the fruit of the pepper was still very present. A very nice dish, even if a bit challenging...and yes, we were warned.


Grilled Eggplant | smoked trout, feta, chili salt, sweet corn vinaigrette, lime
As much as I love eggplant, the highlight of this dish was the compellingly smoked trout, which was succulent.



Potato Gnocchi | sweet corn, butter, bacon
I really enjoyed this combination and loved the pairing of the components. I also enjoyed the slightly pungent cheese element but it wasn't listed on the menu and I forgot to ask what cheese it was.



Risotto | lobster mushrooms, veal belly, abbamele
A great concept but sadly, something was not quite right here with the execution. The risotto just didn't quite come together. The ingredients were great and I enjoyed the meaty lobster mushroom and shreds of unctuous veal belly but the rice was very wet and not creamy. My wife also ordered this and loved hers. She tasted ours and said they differed quite a bit. It was a rare misstep from a kitchen that gets just about everything right.



Wood-Grilled Cheeseburger | fries, pickle
Slagel Farm beef, cooked rare and accompanied with cheese, some special Nightwood sauce and a pickle. Wow! The burger was utterly fantastic and is, IMO, one of the best available in the entire city (I've had this a few times, now). As delicious as the condiments were -- including the farm egg that had been cooked in foie fat -- the perfectly-cooked beef was so flavorful, it would have been great on its own. And these fries, oh, these fries...honestly, I can't remember the last time I had fries this spectacular. They were crispy on the outside and indescribably fluffy on the inside. They were so light, it was hard to believe. They tasted great and were salted perfectly.



Wood-Grilled Beef Short Rib | chanterelles, house fish sauce, chilled celery noodles, pickled corn, butter lettuce
This short rib had been lightly cured overnight, roasted in the oven and finished on the grill. It was a distinctive and delicious preparation. I really enjoyed the boldly-flavored accoutrements and the way the dish was served as a lettuce wrap "kit."



Spit-Roasted Indiana Duck | sungold tomato and plum salad, mayonnaise
I was so effing full by the time this arrived, I had one bite of the breast, which was moist and meaty. That's it...I'm done! Well . . .



Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding | toasted marshmallow, graham crackers
As full as we were, I felt I needed a jolt of chocolate to 'end the madness,' so I pushed our group to split 1 dessert and a great one, it was. The pudding was complex and satisfying. It straddled the line beautifully between bitter and sweet. And there was salt...not a lot but enough to allow the deep flavor to present clearly on my very fatigued palate.

I've now been to Nightwood 4 times since May and I've enjoyed each visit immensely. I love the food and I love the vibe. Next, I'm determined to try their Sunday brunch sooner than later.

=R=

I had the Nightwood burger this week, and must agree that it's one of the best in the city. I ordered it with bacon, egg, and cheese to make up for the awful burger I had at Kuma's a couple weeks ago. It totally did.

The beef itself might be the best I've ever had, anywhere. The next time I order it, I'll hold the special sauce because it's the only component that didn't sing to me. And really, who needs special sauce when you can dip your burger in a combination of its own juice and freshly burst egg yolk?

Any and every time this thread pops back to life, I feel compelled to reiterate the consistent awesomeness of Nightwood. This and Publican remain my two can't-go-wrongs, and the two local restaurants I can in good faith recommend to just about anyone. I could eat here weekly.

Ronnie's meal:

The kitchen really needed to slip in an intermezzo of Lipitor sorbet somewhere in there.

Your photos are lovely, as always, Ronnie.

ronnie_suburban wrote:They're beefy and fatty, and served with great condiments, though the meat is so good, they and the bun are all but overkill. This burger would be awesome totally on its own.

Sweetbread wrote:I had the Nightwood burger this week, and must agree that it's one of the best in the city. I ordered it with bacon, egg, and cheese to make up for the awful burger I had at Kuma's a couple weeks ago. It totally did.
The beef itself might be the best I've ever had, anywhere. The next time I order it, I'll hold the special sauce because it's the only component that didn't sing to me. And really, who needs special sauce when you can dip your burger in a combination of its own juice and freshly burst egg yolk?

I agree that the beef coming from Slagel Family Farm makes for some of the tastiest patties anywhere, but their use of Fox & Obel’s ciabatta roll doesn’t help the overall effort. Being caveman chewy, it’s almost impossible to take a bite of this hamburger without completely destroying its structure and integrity, rendering the sandwich a complete mess on the plate (I’m a huge fan of the Fox & Obel bakery…it’s almost the only thing worth going there for anymore).

I also agree with Sweetbread that slathering the burger with a bold yet lovely Velveeta-esque melted cheese is counterproductive since it masks the wonderfully beefy taste of the premium meat. My idea of a great hamburger experience is not only sensational meat (first and foremost) but a sandwich where all components work in harmony to create perfect and effortless bites.

Two maple and bourbon sausages (from Butcher and Larder) may actually be worth $4.50 as a Nightwood brunch add-on: fantastic. The current brunch menu, though, is more about assembly than cooking (donuts on every table); I miss the chicken and waffles. Still, the burger is available and looks great, and between the fair small plate prices and excellent cocktails (Americano hits the spot), one can assemble something customized and very savory.

Congrats, to Nightwood's Chef de Cuisine Jason Vincent, who's been nominated by Food + Wine magazine as a candidate for their 'People's Best New Chef 2012 award.

=R=

It had been a few months since my last meal at Nightwood but -- my oh my -- did the kitchen throw down this past weekend at a dinner my wife and I shared with the milz50's. We opted for the kitchen counter, even though we knew it might be a minor obstacle to socializing (4 in a row can be tougher than 4 at a table) and even though we knew it might be hot back there (it is a kitchen, after all). In the end, none of the extraneous details mattered very much because the food was sensational -- as good as any meal I've had at Nightwood -- and it provided plenty of fodder for my 'Best of 2012' file, as well. This was a meal that I'll be remembering fondly for quite some time . . .


Reel Around The Fountain | Pimm's #1, strawberry-infused gin, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, lemon, soda
As noted in this thread, the bar is strong at Nightwood. There were several alluring cocktails on the menu. I decided on this one, which was delightfully dry, with a pleasantly bitter finish. I also tasted a couple of others and really, it would be easy to spend some time at this bar. The spirits are well-curated and handled very nicely. This was a really nice opener. I also loved the Take Ivy, which was comprised of Cap Rock gin, cucumber, lemon, soda and kumquat bitters. It was a savory pleasure.



Slagel Farm Lamb Tartare | house-baked crackers
This course served as our amuse. The lamb was spectacularly fresh and tender. I loved the accoutrements, even though I am sad to say I don't remember what they were. Fwiw, because of our seating configuration, we were served many of our dishes in pairs, so this portion is half of what the 4 of us enjoyed.



Roasted Asparagus | house-made Tamworth bacon, goat cheese, abbamele
Before we could even begin to negotiate amongst ourselves what we were going to order, chef Ben (Jason Vincent was out on this night) served us this item from the appetizer section of the menu. It was just perfectly conceived and executed. I thought the Tamworth bacon was great, with an impressive and triangular balance between salt, smoke and sweet.

At this point, overwhelmed by the myriad choices on the menu, we asked chef if we could just "be in the kitchen's hands" as far as what we were going to eat. He seemed genuinely happy when we asked and added that he didn't want to just assume that's what we wanted. Putting it in his hands was a great decision. The menu he and the kitchen assembled for us was truly wonderful. Before we left for the evening, we confirmed that anyone sitting at the kitchen counter can request this path for their meal. I'm not sure if the same is true in the dining room.

With that piece of business settled, Mrs. milz50 ordered us a very food-friendly bottle of wine -- Domaine du Tariquet Famille Grassa, Cote, 2010, Chardonnay and Sauvignon -- that was crisp and nicely balanced between sweet and acidic. It reminded me of an Alsatian Riesling. It paired great with the first part of our meal.


Corn Biscuits | whipped butter
I always love these freshly-baked signature biscuits at Nightwood.



Pan-Seared Spanish Mullet | local cardoon giardiniera, citrus, fried hominy
You just don't see enough cardoons on menus these days (they are labor intensive) and I loved that they were deftly morphed into a delicious giardiniera that paired perfectly with the moist, tender, crispy-skinned fish.



Simple Spring Vegetables | toasted goat cheese
This was spectacular in every way -- a glorious orgy of spring's bounty on a plate. The vegetables -- asparagus, turnips, ramps, parasol mushrooms, etc. -- were cooked to perfection and the delectable toasted goat cheese sounds a lot simpler than it really was. It was actually 2 cheeses that had been combined, then pressure-canned, then crumbled. I don't remember ever having been served a dish using this technique before. Before we were served this course, we were brought steak knives, so it was a bit of a surprise to have vegetables placed in front of us. The steak knives were a great call, though, because the perfectly cooked veggies still had quite a bit of firmness in them.

Next up was a great bottle of red, again chosen by Mrs. milz50. It was Hartley Ostini, Hitching Post Gen Red, Central Coast, 2007, (51% cab franc, 37% merlot, 6% syrah, 6% valdiguie). I loved the offbeat blend of varietals, which combined into a wine that paired very nicely with the rest of our savory courses.


Stracchino and Pumpkin Seed Ravioli | fresh garbanzo beans
We were each served one sensational ravioli and as I have always come to expect at Nightwood, the pasta could not have been cooked any better. It was al dente with a perfect bite, and the filling was creamy, buttery and wholly intoxicating.



Spaghetti alla Chitarra | veal ragu, lobster mayonnaise
More perfectly cooked al dente noodles, this time served with an ultra rich veal ragu and lobster butter that contained tender chunks of lobster. Whoa!



Wood-Grilled Whole Wisconsin Trout (Rushing Waters)
It's impressive to have skin this crisp on such a small fish and also have the flesh of the fish be so moist. At Nightwood, however, it's not surprising. It's what they do. This was actually served with the dish below, which was its accompaniment.



Clams | ramps, potato, bacon, house-cultured butter
Tender, briney-sweet clams accented with ramps and bacon that just made the entire dish sing. IIRC, the cooking medium contained vermouth (2 types of white?) but I'm not entirely sure. I will say that I loved it and the tanginess imparted by the house-cultured butter. This was also served with some big, hand-torn sections of crusty baguette, which was perfect for soaking it all up.



Wood-Grilled Spring Lamb, Octopus & Ramps | apricot-black pepper BBQ, burnt tomato
This was a riff on an item that appeared on the menu. The skewers (right and left of center) were the menu item and they were served with polenta. For us, the spectacular roasty-licious lamb neck (center) was added and 2 pastas were also served (instead of the polenta). I think one was a cheddar risotto and the other was, iirc, fregula topped with salsa verde. In any event, the dish was truly inspired from end to end. The skewers were chock full of deeply savory bites. Even the bbq sauce was out of this world. I kept pulling tender shreds of succulent lamb meat off the neck bones (which I'd pulled apart with my hands), and as full as I was getting, it was hard to stop myself. Jeebus!



Wood-Grilled Spring Lamb, Octopus & Ramps | apricot-black pepper BBQ, burnt tomato
A closer look.

I happen to love the desserts at Nightwood. Now, after this meal, left to my own devices, I would have ordered one -- or maybe two -- for the four of us to share. The generous kitchen had their own ideas and sent out five of them for us to try. There wasn't one here I wouldn't order again without hesitation . . .


Strawberry Sundae | vanilla ice cream, chiffon cake, glazed strawberries
The berries had a beautiful perfume and were incorporated very well -- with the other great components -- into this excellent dessert.



Rhubarb Buckle | strawberry-buttermilk ice cream
This was the shocker for me because I don't really even like rhubarb but the body of the crumble itself and the terrific house-made ice cream balanced the tartness of the rhubarb magically.



Greek Yogurt Ice Cream, Strawberry-Lime Sorbet | vanilla cone
I loved the tangy-rich yogurt ice cream and how it paired with the bright and tart sorbet. The better-than-old-timey cone was, as always at Nightwood, perfect.



Butterscotch Pudding | vanilla cream, shortbread cookies
I think this was the consensus favorite of our group. It was spectacular, with an intense butterscotch flavor.



Malted Fudge Cake | chocolate ice cream (Mast Brothers Chocolate)
I do like to finish up with some chocolate and only wish I had more room to put away more of this winning dessert. The idea to malt the fudge cake was very cool and expertly executed. The unspeakably creamy ice cream straddled the line between bitter and sweet perfectly.

Nightwood continues to blow me away every time I eat there. The fact that it also continues to get better each time seems almost impossible. It's a real testament to the skilled artists in its kitchen. They work so well together, so professionally. It'd be impressive enough just to watch them to do their thing. The fact that their creative efforts are so consistently successful on the plate is what separates them from, well, just about every other kitchen in town.

=R=

Ronnie, thanks for the great report. I was recently at Nightwood and had the trout with clams, plus the rhubarb buckle for dessert, both absolutely terrific. I didn't take pictures so I'm glad to see yours!

Add another positive experience to the list. We were searching for a low key, "regular menu" brunch for Mother's Day and chose Nightwood. All agreed it was lovely--SO & his mom both had the rolled omelet with sage flower and asparagus (both hate hollandaise so they ordered without) and I had the scrambled eggs with house smoked trout, radish and salsa verde. We shared an order of the house smoked bacon. Everything down to the grilled bread and house made jam was completely delicious. Can't wait to try the chef's choice option--Ronnie's pics and description make this a must-do soon!!

I too was at Nightwood on Sunday for brunch and had the eggs with trout and salsa verde. That with a side of house smoked bacon and a rhubarb ricotta doughnut made for an amazing meal and the restaurant was surprisingly subdued for Mother's Day. Since pre-baby we were Friday night regulars I went to the counter to see if chef Jason was there to say hi. He wasn't there but I heard the sous happily telling a waitress, "oh yeah, he's the guy from LTHForum." I'm not sure what the context was but it made me chuckle. Nightwood is at the top of it's game and should be considered among Chicago's best for an unpretentious and always delicious dining experience.

ronnie_suburban wrote:It had been a few months since my last meal at Nightwood but -- my oh my -- did the kitchen throw down this past weekend at a dinner my wife and I shared with the milz50's. We opted for the kitchen counter, even though we knew it might be a minor obstacle to socializing (4 in a row can be tougher than 4 at a table) and even though we knew it might be hot back there (it is a kitchen, after all). In the end, none of the extraneous details mattered very much because the food was sensational -- as good as any meal I've had at Nightwood -- and it provided plenty of fodder for my 'Best of 2012' file, as well. This was a meal that I'll be remembering fondly for quite some time . . .

Wow, really amazing stuff! Makes me glad I chose here for my birthday dinner in a few weeks. Did they simply charge you for all the items they gave you or was there just a set price per person?

Congratulations to Jason Vincent, the new King of Porc!

Eater wrote:Some chefs come to attention through big personalities and appearing on various TV talk shows. Other chefs take a quieter approach and get recognized solely through a traditional route: their food. Such is the case with Jason Vincent, the understated, somewhat under-the-radar exec chef at Nightwood who likely won't be under the radar much longer after being crowned the King of Porc at the Grand Cochon competition at the 30th annual Food & Wine Classic in Aspen on Sunday.

I had a friend in town last weekend and owed her a dinner from a Bears/Packers bet we made a couple of years ago. It was a great excuse to get back to Nightwood. Fortunately, Mr. X agreed to be our designated driver.

It was a beautiful evening so we sat on the patio. The benches aren't terribly comfortable, but the chairs sat too low for someone of a shorter stature like myself. We started off with a round of cocktails: Mr. X had the Seersucker (CapRock gin, Koval pear brandy,dill, lemon, soda, kumquat bitters); I had the Lucky Rabbit's Foot (Buffalo Trace bourbon, honey, grapefruit, Fernat Branca, Fee's bitters) and my friend had the Dilettante (Cane & Abel rum, falernum, ginger, lime, mint, Angostura bitters.) All were tasty, but we think the Seersucker was the most refreshing. For appetizers, we had the "Cauliflower, nectarines, stracchino, bacon, spring onion, honey" and the "Ricotta gnudi, lobster broth, brown butter, sungold tomato, parmesan." The bacon added a nice contrast to the freshness of the cauliflower and nectarines. The gnudi was quite good and I didn't hold back eating the rest of the broth with my spoon.

Our entrees were Spit-roasted Slagel Farms half chicken (quinoa, sweet plums, dandelion, scallion, salsa verde, yogurt), the wood-grilled Wisconsin trout (with Butcher & Larder chorizo, tomato, creme fraiche, summer squash, pickled jalapeno, sweet corn and lime), and the Spaghetti alla chittara, five animal Bolognese. The pasta seemed to be homemade and had a nice texture to it. The overall dish was rich and somewhat one note. Mr. X didn't seem to complain though. My friend loved her chicken and I was equally enamored with the trout. The chorizo/tomato concoction was served in a shallow crock on the side and had a ton of flavor.

It was Fete de Rose when we were there, so in that spirit, we asked for a rose recommendation to go with our meal. That wasn't easy since our entrees covered a wide taste spectrum. Our server brought out a couple of tastes for us and we went with the Chateau Coupe-Roses Fremillant. It had more body to it than most roses and had a bit of earthiness. It went great with the trout, pretty well with the chicken and just okay with the spaghetti.

The desserts knocked us out. We shared the lavender-earl grey panna cotta with blackberries and lemon shortbread and the chocolate caramel souffle cake with chocolate cake ice cream and chocolate toffee. I has to restrain myself from licking the dish the souffle cake came in. The panna cotta was both light and rich. A great finish to a great meal.

Although I don't get there often, Nightwood is one of my favorite restaurants. I look forward to returning.

The GP wrote:
Although I don't get there often, Nightwood is one of my favorite restaurants. I look forward to returning.

Agreed. Now thinking I should get there before the patio closes. It would also make a great bike ride for us.

The GP wrote:Mr. X agreed to be our designated driver. ... We started off with a round of cocktails: Mr. X had the Seersucker (CapRock gin, Koval pear brandy, dill, lemon, soda, kumquat bitters) ...

*

*(Just teasing--I know, just the one...)

My work partners and I brought a supplier who was visiting from South Africa to dinner at Nightwood last week and the experience was exceptional from end to end. Before dinner, we sat at the bar and enjoyed a few rounds, including a carafe of I Could Go On Singing Punch (Sauza Hornitos tequila, Aperol, Yellow Chartreuse, ginger, orange pu-erh tea, lime and sparkling wine), The Seersucker (Cap Rock gin, pear brandy, dill, lemon, soda and kumquat bitters) and The Dilettante (Cane & Abe rum, falernum, ginger, lime, mint and Angostura bitters). Cocktails were served up by the affable Brian, who was a great host at a tremendously undersung bar.

For my first time ever, I sat at a table instead of at the chefs' counter but being away from the action didn't dampen the experience at all. The food was mind-blowingly good. Chef Jason Vincent and his team turned out a meal that just blew us -- and our guest -- away.

Here's a line-up of some of the dishes we had:

Appetizers:
Crispy pig ear with maple, habanero, house cultured butter and cilantro
Green City Market gazpacho with pickled avocado
Roasted leek, bacon, gongonzola piccante, Illinois peaches, sorrel and honey
Foie gras with Michigan fish sauce (Red Boat/Blis), wild ginger and almond
Eggplant with summer squash, breadcrumbs, aioli, lemon and capers
Deep-fried white cornmeal chicken wings, with "hot chili' mama and celery leaf

Mains:
Spaghetti alla chitarra with 5 animal bolognese
Spit-roasted Michigan duck breast with seared green beans, romesco and turnip greens
Wood-grilled cheeseburger with fries and a pickle

Desserts:
Chocolate-Caramel Souffle Cake with malted vanilla ice cream and toffee crumble
Buttermilk Panna Cotta with glazed plums and lemon shortbread
Blueberry Crisp with blueberry pancake ice cream
Milk Chocolate ice cream
Lemongrass ice cream
Blackberry-Peach Sorbet

Also sent out for us was a fantastic pork skin and chick pea stew that, I believe, was the winning dish at the Aspen event mentioned upthread, at which chef Vincent was named King of Porc.

I love this food because it's distinctive, and creatively combines local and seasonal ingredients with exceptional ingredients from a bit farther away. There's an edge to it and chef Vincent's time spent cooking in Spain comes through in so many of the little details. There's so much skill and thought behind these menus, it's truly a pleasure to dine here. And when you're trying to show off the best of your hometown to a foreign visitor, chefs like Jason Vincent and restaurants like Nightwood make it very friggin' easy to do.

=R=

I had a vermouth Duplex there a few weeks ago that, taken with the gratis rosemary focaccia with date spread, would have made my best of 2012 meal list before any entrees arrived.

ronnie_suburban wrote:Foie gras with Michigan fish sauce (Red Boat/Blis), wild ginger and almond

Can you speak more on this? Lobe? Pics?

Thanks Ronnie!

-Ben

Sweetbread wrote:

ronnie_suburban wrote:Foie gras with Michigan fish sauce (Red Boat/Blis), wild ginger and almond

Can you speak more on this? Lobe? Pics?

Thanks Ronnie!

-Ben

Sorry, no pics. Because it was a business dinner, I didn't feel comfortable shooting the meal. It was not a whole lobe but very nicely seared pieces that were extremely well matched with the ginger and almond. The combined aftertaste of the foie with those components -- components I've never before seen paired with foie -- was quite harmonious.

=R=

My only post in this thread described a lackluster meal at Nightwood a few years ago, but since then I've been back a couple of times (including last night) and enjoyed excellent meals. Last night, I started with the Three Eggs appetizer which I thought was brilliant. It was a delicately thin and beautiful dumpling purse made of chicken egg, filled with a runny quail egg and steelhead trout roe (hence, three eggs). There was also dill and maple syrup and a perfectly toasted slice of buttery brioche - a perfect dish from conception to execution.

For my main course, I had the roasted chicken which was moist, delicious and really delivered the promised wood grilled flavor. If I recall correctly, it was served with some buttery roasted fingerlings, apple and cheddar. I was also lucky to try the grilled duck leg and it was outstanding.

We shared a number of desserts and they were all fantastic, so hard to pick a favorite, but maybe the best restaurant desserts I've had this year. There was the molten chocolate cake you wish would just disappear from all menus, until this one. Instead of the focus being on the molten center, this one had you mesmerized by the deep, dark chocolate flavor, the kind you envisioned when you first watched Willy Wonka. Even better perhaps was the almond butter cake, with a scoop of salted caramel ice cream, and roasted chunks of apple and candied walnuts. Each of the parts would have been fantastic on its own, but together it was a symphony of fall's beauty. And the ice cream was not only delicious, but smooth as silk. Cranberry-pear crisp with cinnamon ice cream lured you in with a crackling oatmeal crust, then kept you focused with the tangy and not-too-sweet fruit filling and the outstanding cinnamon ice cream that brought it all together. Finally, the title "plate of cookies" really undersold the cookies that were delivered. A snickerdoodle as good as one could be (the one that should be served at Big Jones), a nutter butter that serves to remind us just why this wonderful cookie was created, a great chocolate chip cookie, and a buttery thumbprint cookie filled with an intense and obviously housemade raspberry filling.

Then the fantastic cocktails - but the one I want to mention the most is the non-alcoholic pumpkin smash (to which I added bourbon). And service was outstanding from the minute we walked in the door to the minute we left. Nightwood is really doing great things these days, enough to convince this northsider to make what really turns out to be a relatively quick trip down south to Pilsen.

I was back again at Nightwood a couple of times last month and had great dinners both times. As I've posted above, Nightwood is one of my favorite restaurants in Chicago. And it's one of the very few places that serves delicious food and is also an important part of the Chicago dining scene. As a dining city, Chicago is made better by Nightwood's existence. It's just that simple. That's why when visitors ask me where to eat when they are here, or I am charged with hosting them, Nightwood always gets my enthusiastic, confident endorsement.

Chef Jason Vincent and his team continue to turn out some of the most distinctive, delicious fare in Chicagoland, crafting premium ingredients (many of which you just don't see anywhere else in town) into compelling, imaginative and delectable compositions. It seems that virtually no component used there hasn't been given careful consideration and many items that other restaurants routinely purchase are actually made on premises at Nightwood. The food is edgy, elevated and totally approachable. It's comforting and sophisticated without being the least bit pretentious.

What follows is a photo recap of my most recent meal at Nightwood, which I shared with my wife, REB and RAB. We let the kitchen know that we wanted the smelts and a pasta and that we were really hungry. The rest, we said, was up to them. As is my strong preference, we sat at the kitchen counter. I love sitting there because it's a pleasure to watch this kitchen work. They are efficient and professional, and the energy they create is extremely positive.


House-Baked Focaccia with Onion Jam
As usual, we were started out with a house-baked breadstuff. In this case it was a short, crusty-tender focaccia, served with an aromatic and mildly sweet onion jam.



Foie Gras Torchon |
On the menu, this is listed as being served with Michigan fish sauce, caramel, ginger and almond but having had that preparation at my earlier November meal, I'm fairly certain this was an on-the-fly modification. In any event, it was a great, flavorful torchon, served at a proper temperature -- not too cold.



Raw Kale Salad | Iowa prosciutto, Three Sisters navy bean dressing, hard-cooked egg, sweet potato chips, parmesan, cider
A great combination of flavors and textures.



Fried Michigan Smelts | sweet & sour
Crispy and light. The sweet and sour was a very nice touch.



Crispy Pig Ears | house-cultered butter, habanero, maple, cilantro
I love these dense, intensely crispy strips. I've now had them 3 times and this was the least spicy of those 3 versions. Personally, I would have loved them a bit hotter but I'm not sure the same could be said of my wife.



59th Street Bridge | Bulleit rye, Dupont Calvados, Cocchi Torino vermouth, Yellow Chartreuse
I actually had 2 cocktails and I'm not entirely sure which the one above is. It might have actually been the Big Trouble in Little China (Buffalo Trace bourbon, Tuaca, Cynar, lemon, Angostura bitters). In any event, the cockails were nicely balanced, leaning toward boozy and not overly sweet, which I really appreciate.



White Bean Soup | goose confit, yogurt chili biscuit
I really loved the intense flavor of this rich soup, the lush goose meat and the chili biscuit (top left), which really delivered the heat.



One Long Noodle | carbonara, clams, lemon
As I have posted above, in my experience at Nightwood, the pastas are always expertly prepared and creative. That was certainly true at this meal. Here, a house-made 6-foot-long tubular noodle is filled with carbonara components, cooked perfectly, drizzled with fresh lemon and topped with tender clams. Really awesome stuff. I could not stop eating it.



Pasta Cooked Twice | house ricotta, celery, pepperoni, octopus, banana peppers
This pasta is actually made with hard-cooked eggs making the resulting noodle so delicate, it can only be cooked by steaming. It was filled with house-made ricotta and topped with some great, boldy flavored ingredients, for which the creamy ricotta provided a perfect counterpoint.



Roasted Cauliflower
This was not on the menu and I cannot recall what the roasted cauliflower was topped with (cerignola olives and pickled onions?). I loves me some cauliflower, so needless to say, I really loved this dish.



Illinois Rabbit Leg | Butcher & Larder sausage ragout
Really just a phenomenal dish. It was tender and moist, and the ragout was just sensational.



Garlic Braised Oyster Mushrooms | Three Sisters polenta, habanero, pumpkin seed brittle
Another amazingly creative, original (at least to me) vegetable dish. The inspired and delicious combination of ingredients here was only exceeded by the myriad perfect techniques with which it had been executed.



Spit-Roasted NY Strip | barley, horseradish, creme fraiche
I loved this steak, which was juicy and had a very nice wood-cooked flavor. The horseradish, iirc, was from Genesis Growers and was a perfect accent for the minerally, nicely-fatty beef. I also loved the barley prep, which would have made a great dish on its own.



Nantucket Bay Scallops | pea tendrils, chilis, lime, cauliflower, pecans, fennel, smoked spare ribs
Just wonderful stuff. Bay scallops, in the right hands, can be tremendous, as these were. The multiple, layered flavor dimensions in this dish were exceptionally satisfying.



Pumpkin Olive Oil Cake | maple creme fraiche, pumpkin gelee
We were absolutely stuffed (did not finish the main courses), so before the kitchen could even attempt to bombard us with desserts, we asked to be served just one. This tasty, seasonal 'study in pumpkin' was light, which I rarely experience with pumpkin desserts. However, that didn't matter much on this night because we were just too full to appreciate it. It was funny, sitting at the end of the counter where we were, we could see the desserts being prepped. They all looked great but I just knew there was no effing way I could eat them. At one point I commented on how good one of the ice creams looked and the cook who was prepping it offered me to try it. I wish I could have taken him up on it but not on this noche.

Exceptional food, great drinks and really fun time at Nightwood. For me, it's always been -- and remains -- a lock.

=R=