Listen to Attrill, he sums everything up nicely about Mariano's. There's not too much to get excited about. Mariano's trods more in Jewel territory than Whole Foods territory. For instance, there's aisle after aisle of nationally-produced chips and soda, but the flour section contains more variety than your Jewel, which would carry only several brands of AP flour, and one expensive brand of Whole Wheat.
The produce is meh, industrial stuff, gassed peaches, etc., produce that looks way better than it tastes. They were advertising a bin of Wisconsin heirlooms in the front, but the tomatoes had a suspicious, waxy-looking shine, as if they could not be sold @ Mariano's unless they were spiffed up. And they were priced on par with farmer's markets. I did, however, find a flat of gorgeous California figs, reasonably priced at $5.49.
I thought the bakery was better than normal, although Attrill is correct in that what they're dubbing French bread is the same crap labeled "French bread" at Jewel-Dom. The foccacia, though, is decent, for $2.50, and the sliced "everyday" toast breads are much better (and cheaper) than what you'd find at the Jewel's.
When I was there, the lines at the Deli were outrageous. Apparently, Mariano's has a huge following with the blue-haired cold cuts crowd. For me, "cold cuts" consists entirely of Italian salume -- and Mariano's underachieves here, mostly Volpe products. No prosciutto di Parma, their "highest-end" prosciutto was produced by Accademia di Barilla, you know, the sauce- and pasta- makers. And it looked terrible. They could at least carry San Daniele. But people were ordering it up, and they way the staff shredded the proscuitto in the inappropriate, generic slicer, and piled each slice on top of each other (instead of slightly overlapping it in a row), would make Jim Graziano go ballistic. There is, however, one find that's worth it. There are salume in paper bags in the front of the case -- various types, finocchiona, etc. -- priced at $14.99 a pound. Nice funk, good texture. That is worth buying. There is also some very respectable, tender fresh mozzarella in water behind the deli, reasonably priced at $4.49/lb. But the people working behind the counter have no f'in clue what they're doing -- I asked for
bocconcini, which is how the cheese was labeled, and I received a blank stare. Then, I pointed and said the fresh mozz, more blank stare. When I finally communicated effectively what I wanted, I asked her to weigh it out and then put some water on it, to which she responded, snottily, "I know what I'm doing."
Really? A minute ago you didn't know what I was talking about. Of course, she put only two small spoons of water over the cheese, but I gave up at that point, and figured I'll deal with it at home.
The real star of this place is the meat market. It's no Butcher and Larder, with gorgeous nicely butchered cuts of superbly raised meat. The meat certainly has an "I've been shipped across country"-tired, look. But they're are a ton of different cuts, very reasonably priced, glistening Bell & Evans chickens, Niman ranch lamb, and prime steaks for abotu $17.99/lb. The guys behind the counter, while friendly, were clueless.
The cheese section could use some improvement -- they're not buying whole wheels and cutting them like Whole Foods. Expect hunks of cheese labeled and packaged at the factory, and a mainstream selection. The do have grouped together a fairly deep selection locally-produced cheese (though they're not labeled as such), so if you'd like to sample what's being produced in Wisconsin, there's an opportunity. I purchased some Belgioso crescenza -- you don't see that type of cheese too often. (And I think Belgioso puts out a pretty solid though mass produced product.)
I had an issue at checkout after I told the bagger that I wanted to carry out my flat of figs, and he responded that he would give me a bag, and proceeded to tip the flat sideways into a plastic bag (at which point they would all fall out and get bruised) before I stopped him. WTF? But I think it's a function of the Jewel-Dom mentality where you train your workers to bag every flippin' thing your customers buy even if it's a pack of gum. Mariano's has a long way to go in terms of training its employees, and carrying better quality products, if it wants to compete with higher end stores like Whole Foods.