Pancho Viti's

I ate lunch Friday at Gabriel's latest effort to take over Highwood, and I am afraid that this one may not cut it. The atmosphere is ok, but the food is not as good as Tacos El Norte, and costs between 1.5 and 3x as much. A friend who had dinner there over the weekend complained about the drink prices and the fact that you have to pay for everything...chips, salsa, etc. The ceviche seemed poached, and not a lot of flavor. The tongue taco was good, not as fatty as TelN, but not as flavorful. (Can someone explain to me why the deli tongue I used to get in New York was very lean, but all the tongue I order in ethnic restaurants here is very fatty?) The most interesting flavor was the pork, which had a curryish flavor. It will be interesting to see if Pancho Viti's fails, or if the North Shores fascination with image over quality will keep it going.
-Will

Will:

I know what you mean. Common logic says that the place, because the prices are high and the food average (especially compared to Miramar, which is, if nothing else, consistently good), lasts the standard North Shore fascination of six months and then quietly exits with little to no mention. That said, Mexican restaurants here stick around for a while; it's really Italian/contemporary/seafood/non-Old People's food (sorry for being an ageist, but there's a reason there are like a dozen clones of Timber's here) that has the hardest time lasting.

I ate at Pancho Viti's a week and half ago, on a Sunday at 6PM, and it was mobbed; we sat at the bar, which isn't much but affords a view of the line and gets prompt service. I got the whole fried red snapper, which was covered in a thin ragout of olives and tomatoes, while my dining partner had shrimp in garlic sauce, neither which were as good as similar dishes had at El Barco a few nights previously. In fact, while both were certainly tasty, I can't say they were any better than their predecessors at La Casa Del Gordo, which had formerly occupied the spot.

I suppose that's what really burns me about this place--it's almost exactly the same, except they ratcheted up the attitude and prices. Gordo looked like a Once Upon a Bagel, but you could get a beer for $3 and fish tacos for $11; Gabriel charges $9 for a margarita and $18.95 for the red snapper...and that's not even bringing up the fact that to get tortillas for the fish costs extra, as does chips. I could understand if the aim was to be Frontera, but it's really just to be Las Palmas with a hipper reputation.

I'll stick to Tacos El Norte, thanks.

chezbrad wrote:I can't say they were any better than their predecessors at La Casa Del Gordo, which had formerly occupied the spot.

I suppose that's what really burns me about this place--it's almost exactly the same, except they ratcheted up the attitude and prices. Gordo looked like a Once Upon a Bagel, but you could get a beer for $3 and fish tacos for $11

Isn't La Casa del Gordo now at 2014 First Street?

Hi,

I'm not sure of the address, though I have seen where it is relocating to. El Gordo will be the closest tacqueria to the Highland Park High School approximately where First Street ends at Green Bay Road on the north part of town. I initially wasn't impressed by the location, but as I wrote this and realized how close to the school it is not too bad.

I have a review of Pancho Viti's half baked on my computer. I was not impressed either when I went with a friend a few weeks ago. He was of the opinion the people who would love Pancho Viti's are the same who consider P.F. Chang the best and most delicious Chinese!

Tacos el Norte or Los Mojotes across from Mike's Farm Stand are far and above better than Pancho Viti's and at considerable savings. You go to Miramar or Pancho Viti's for the social see and be seen, which is not really about the food.

Regards,

A few weeks ago, a friend asked me join him at Pancho Viti’s for dinner. It was their third day of operation with lots of local buzz and I cleared my schedule to meet him for dinner.

Pancho Viti’s is the third restaurant in the Gabriel Viti restaurant empire in Highwood. Gabe grew up in Highland Park around the same time I did, so I am acquainted with various members of the family. After returning from training in Europe, he was a Chef at Carlos in Highland Park. About 10 years ago, he opened his own restaurant just west the railroad tracks named Gabriel’s. In the last 18 months, he opened the Cuban inspired Miramar Bistro just east of the railroad tracks. Just two weeks ago, he opened Pancho Viti’s Mexican Cantina immediately east of Miramar, his first restaurant in Highland Park and next door neighbor to Carlos.

The popularity of the Viti Empire restaurants has caused a tight parking situation to worsen. His valet parkers grab the better spots, so if you don’t want their services (I avoid them like the plague) you are consigned to park in the railroad commuter parking lot and walking over. Older restaurants like Nite-N-Gale have added tall fences and electric gates to keep their parking lots for their customers. Just this evening, I passed Carlos which had a car conspicuously parked across three spots to keep them for their clients. Parking in Highwood is not a small issue.

When we arrived at Pancho Viti’s, the 4-5 parking spots in front were blocked off by an animal handler escorting a donkey. We found a space in front of Miramar because it was early. When I walked past the handler, I asked him if this was a cute device for reserving parking, which he acknowledged. While my friend marveled at how great Gabe was at promoting himself.



Since it was only 5:15, we were quickly seated and asked for the first of many times, “Do you want chips and salsa?” We had not yet read the menu and declined. About as quickly as the waiter walked away, he ricocheted back, “Do you want chips and salsa?” We smiled patiently and declined again and again and again. After a while you thought you were last customer for the month in a used car dealership and everyone’s bonus was pinned to your buying the chips and salsa. We finally had to firmly declare no interest in any chips and salsa.

By contrast, you go to a less ambitious restaurant like Las Islas Marias, which welcomes you with a basket of Tostadas and a plate of fish ceviche gratis while you contemplate the menu. Whereas Pancho Viti’s charges $2.50 for the opportunity of their chips and salsa, guacamole and chips are $6.50, though I have not tasted either.

My companion had their signature Pancho Margarita, which has Sauza Gold, Triple Sec and Fresh Lime Juice, which he found to his liking. I inquired if they had Mexican Coca-Cola, which the waiter had never heard of and promptly took out a notebook to suggest to Gabe later. We later learned this waiter was on loan from Gabriel’s to help with the start up. In fact the service people to customer ratio was very, very high. My water glass was refilled so often, with the girl holding a napkin on the side facing me so I wouldn’t be splashed, I hardly noticed any level changes. A few minutes after my Mexican Coke inquiry, I saw another waiter walk several bottles to another table. Since my inquiry was really more a test, I kept to my ice water.

For our appetizers, we ordered tortilla soup and an Al Pastor Gordita. The tortilla soup had a fine flavor, though the tortilla strips had been added too early on and were mushy ribbons. The soup was accompanied by a plate of cubed cheese, chilis, chicharon and onion top mix in to taste. Just thinking out loud, I was surprised by cubed cheese rather than grated. I’m so used to grated I accept that as typical over the cubes, which were simply unusual to my Mexican food experiences.



I ordered the Gordita with Al Pastor meat filling, for two reasons: 1) Al Pastor takes skill to be made right and 2) gorditas and tacos were priced at $3. each. Tacos are often priced much less than Gorditas. Naturally, I asked if the Al Pastor was cooked on a rotating spit with perhaps a pineapple on top. I learned their Al Pastor is cooked on a griddle. My usual experience with Al Pastor cooked on the griddle, there is usually some carmelization and it is rather dry. Pancho Viti’s Al Pastor was cut thicker, there was no carmelization and the overall texture was a bit moist with a faint hint of a cinnamon taste. If I had nothing to compare this Al Pastor to, I would have found it acceptable but alas I do have better and less pricey just blocks away at Tacos El Norte.

Pancho Viti’s Al Pastor Gordita


Taco el Norte’s Gordita and Taco both served Al Pastor


For our main course, we shared the Huachinanago ala Veracruzana, which is whole red snapper with tomato, garlic and olives. There are always several different approaches one can take to executing a recipe. At Rudy’s Taste two nights before, the red snapper had been scored and deep fat fried for the LTHforum dinner. Islas las Marias a week later also scored the red snapper when I dined with George R and his wife. Scored red snapper is easier to handle, especially when you are taking chunks to eat rolled into tortillas. At Pancho Viti’s the red snapper was not scored before cooking, which increased the table work of the diner especially in separating from the bones.



We did opt for a dessert of flan, which was accompanied by Rompopo a Mexican liquor tasting of egg nog.



While we were there, Gabe’s parents arrived and were seated at the next table. The Mayor of Highland Park was across the way as well as various local luminaries. As we walked out, the burrow or donkey had been shifted closer to the street and some parking spaces were now used. A mariachi band had arrived to great everyone as they arrived. My friend again marveled at the promotional skills of Gabriel Viti. Once in the car, he said Rick Bayless had nothing to worry about.

Pancho Viti’s Mexican Cantina
431 Temple Avenue
Highland Park, IL 60035
Tel: 847/433-5550

Wow. Having grown up down South and then living in Chicago for over 25 years now I thought city parking was pretty cutthroat, but I'll tip my cap to Highwood for using livestock to stake out parking spaces. Makes using chairs and milkcrates look like amateur hour. How do these establishments manage the obvious hoarding of public parking spaces without any response by the village?

Thanks for the detailed writeup on Pancho Viti's; doesn't sound like I'll be stopping off there on my next foray into the north 'burbs.

Hi,

The valet parking seems to have the blessing of the Highwood City Council because they are cited on some signage I've seen. I see these while driving past, so I don't know precisely what they say.

There is a small Mexican grocery adjacent to Miramar which just finish remodeling their facade. I cannot believe their business has improved with all the parking problems. Though I imagine Unica Market just several blocks north has had theirs improve since parking is easier.

This weekend is Highwood Days which features carnival rides in the commuter parking lot. Fortunately, the locals all can walk to this event.

Regards,

Chicago Magazine's Morsels wrote:The Enchilada Files
Pancho Viti’s (431 Temple Ave., Highland Park), Gabriel Viti’s Mexican restaurant that was all the rage a couple of years back, has closed. Seems the property has been rented to Isaac Naba (La Casa del Gordo), who has opened the budget-minded La Casa de Isaac Mexican Restaurant (847-433-5550) in the space. “He [Viti] has three other places,” says Naba, “so he didn’t have too much time to spend at Pancho Viti’s.” (Says Viti: “I broke my golden rule: Never open a restaurant if you don’t have a banquet facility. This guy was dying to get in there, and now everyone is happy.”) Naba, who has brought in his mother from Acapulco to cook, describes her enchiladas as follows: “We stuff them with chicken, onions, and cheese, then roll them up and dip them in green salsa, top them with lettuce, sour cream, avocado, red onions, tomato, and a sprinkle of Cotija cheese.” An interesting side note: Naba’s family is Jewish, and the restaurant is closed on Friday nights, despite his accountant’s protests. “These are our morals and that’s what we enjoy,” Naba says. “We get together on Shabbat and have a good time.”

The irony is before there was Pancho Viti's this space was La Casa del Gordo and prior to that Once Upon a Submarine. Both Casa del Gordo and Once ... Submarine owned by Once Upon a Bagel, who moved Gordo to First Street just north of Elm St.

If you like even more irony: Casa del Gordo originally was a taqueria, then got all shined up as a restaurant when it moved to First. Now to have the original Gordo location as a "budget-minded La Casa de Isaac Mexican Restaurant" is really like musical chairs.

Can't wait to check it out!

Regards,

Even a bit more irony . . . I just spoke with Isaac, whom I got to know fairly well when he was the General Manager at La Casa del Gordo.

I can't wait to check it out either and will definitely do so very soon.

=R=

I had a simple taco asada, which was good but the real star of the lunch was the pozole. A slightly thick chicken broth with generous amounts of shredded chicken and hominy. Isaac serves the pozole accompanied with a small pate of red pepper, mexican oregano, sliced lime, chopped onions and sliced avocado. I am not necessarily an afficicianado of pozole bit I thoroughly enjoyed this one. Tasted very fresh and was served in a generous bowl....enough left over for a quick snack the next day. I wish Isaac the best. He is a charming, enthusiastic restauranteur. Given the quality of his food I am hoping that his "closed Fridays" schedule could be overcome.

I am cross posting this on a new "Casa del Isaac" thread ...since I think I think posting it on the Pancho Viti thread is a disservice to the new owner.

I am sorry to hear Pancho Viti's closed before I got a chance to go to it. I read your earlier post, Cathy2, about growing up in HP and knowing the Vitis, and I'll raise you one: Gabe and I were in the same graduating class in high school.

I've been to his premier restaurant, Gabriel's, just once or twice -- all I've been able to afford so far. After the first time, I found the coat check tag in my coat pocket and promptly mailed it back, so I guess I have one up on Bill Daley of the Tribune, too, who is still holding on to his coat check tag from Le Titi de Paris.