I suspect it would be a good idea to visit Lao Hunan soon, before the waits become extreme. To me, it's the best new Chinatown restaurant in a long time and isn't very big. The Mao theme—servers dressed in Red Army uniforms, Mao's "Serving People" motto everywhere—takes some getting used to but some of the food is spectacular.




Serving people?
The menu currently has about 70 dishes but will expand soon. By choosing randomly, it's likely one's meal will be good but it's best to try to avoid too many similar dishes of the same style, say, dry fried, brown sauced, in spicy oil or with pickled chilies. Hopefully the following pictures and comments, based on 2 visits and nearly 20 dishes, will help somewhat.
I don't find the soups to be a strong point but they're still worth ordering, partly because they're good counterpoints to the spice and heat to come. Both the
clam with squash soup and the
seafood hot and sour soup are surprisingly mild.


Fresh ingredients and subtle broths characterize both soups. If you don't automatically receive a dish of chili oil for the hot and sour soup, be sure to ask for it. The soup is transformed with a few drops.
The two cold appetizers we tried were both worthwhile.
Jade tofu is light but packs a punch, with deeply-flavored chili oil and pickled chiles.
Tai gan Hunan style is a real winner, with crunchy textures and hot-pickled flavors. Obviously another dish sauced with chili oil.

We found few duds in the main dish and seafood sections, though aiming for a balanced mix is important. One essential is
ground pork with sour pickle.
Dry chili fish filet is another essential. This is how every tilapia dreams of ending up.
Chairman Mao's favorite pork belly is another highlight, the best version of this dish that I've had.


The jury is out on
duck in beer sauce in hot wok. It didn't dazzle me during dinner (I think it sort of got lost on my overflowing plate) but leftovers were fantastic.

The
Hunan/human pork liver is an interesting dry-fried version with ultra-well-done chips of liver. I like it but it's probably better shared among a large group.

There aren't many casserole dishes on the menu but
eggplant casserole with ground pork is a winner. Might be best to skip it, though, if you already have a lot of brown-sauced dishes.
Famous prawn in hot wok is served like the duck. Be sure to order the shrimp with heads. A good dish though not one of the more exciting ones.
Famous stir fried lamb is another worthy dish but one that got a bit lost among some standouts at our meal.

Don't overlook the vegetables. Probably the most exciting dish of all is
famous Hunan chili in black bean sauce.

I can't imagine visiting without ordering a plate of these hot, salty, flat-out terrific capsicums. Be warned, these are truly hot.
Home style bean curd is one of the few dishes I can't get excited about. Lao Hunan's weakest dish would be a standout at many restaurants.
Bok choy with 1000 year eggs was pleasant enough (I think it was gai lan, though, not bok choy) but the elements just didn't come together. This might not be a bad respite from the heat.
Basil eggplant, somewhat light on the basil, is another fairly mild one that could come in handy.

Ronnie Suburban wrote:I just cannot wait to get back here and work through more of the menu.
I actually started writing this a couple weeks ago and mentioned how these meals reminded me of my first visits to Lao Sze Chuan.
Over ten years ago, Rene G wrote:Like I said, I've only been there twice so it may not be quite as good as I think. Still, I can't wait to return. This is the kind of place where I repeatedly read over their takeout menu and try to plan my next few visits. I sure can't say that about too many other Chinese restaurants in Chicago.
As true now for Lao Hunan as it was for Lao Sze Chuan.
Lao Hunan
2230 S Wentworth Av
Chicago
312-842-7888
Menu