Ronna and I made our first visit to Sabatino's last night and we enjoyed everything but the food. We had high hopes because the joint was certainly charming in an old-school, red sauce, hasn't-changed-in-100-years kind of way. Service was quirkily enthusiastic and competent, and the strolling musicians were fun. Unfortunately, at its best, the food was tired, boring, and carelessly prepared and presented.
We had:
Bread and Pizza Bread - This double whammy of free starters was good. Both breads were served hot and fresh, and the pizza bread had a nice, garlicky kick. In hindsight, I should have had pizza bread for dinner.
Minestrone Soup - This had nice flavor, but seemed to suffer from being held for way too long. It had thickened to the point where it was more a Minestrone stew than a soup, and the pasta and veggies within were just mush. Still, I ate it.
Salad - Nice that the entrees all come with soup and salad, but this salad was all wrong. I'm glad they washed the lettuce, but they left it soggy and wet. The "blue cheese dressing" turned out to be watery ranch with cheap, crumbled blue cheese on top. Even if I forgive the shitty tomatoes, which is hard, this salad was terrible and I couldn't finish it.
Shrimp DeJonghe - My first experience with this classic Chicago dish, and I kinda liked it. The shrimp were fresh, and the tangy, garlicky bread crumb sauce was tasty. But the way that the handful of sauce-topped lumps of shrimp were just strewn about on a way-too-big plate made for a very ugly dish.
Veal Parmigiana - The veal, sauce, and cheese in this dish were all bland. There was no mistaking the fact that the veal was cooked, cooled, reheated, and cooled again. It was served at room temperature and the cheese had re-solidified. Though it was plenty of food, it barely covered the giant, oval plate on which it was served. What a mess. I ate it anyway. The simple side of spaghetti with meat sauce was hot and flavorful, and tied with the pizza bread as the best thing I tasted all night.
Papparedelle con Funghi di Bosco - In a night of ugly dishes, this pasta ordered by a friend was by far the ugliest. The brown sauce had formed the unmistakeable two-tone crust of a dish that spent too much time under a heat lamp. Beyond that, it tasted like a mix of beef stock and Campbell's condensed cream of mushroom soup coating pasta cooked so far beyond al dente that it could almost be described as a noodle paste. Inedible.
Maybe we ordered wrong, or maybe we caught them on a bad night, or maybe I was in a bad mood, or maybe... I just don't know. I feel the need to find an excuse because this was one of those anomalies where I am left to wonder how in the heck a place ever ended up as a GNR.
--Rich
I don't know what you think about dinner, but there must be a relation between the breakfast and the happiness. --Cemal Süreyya