Connecticut Coastal: New London, Groton [long, pics]

New London is the home of the U.S. Coast Guard Academy and Connecticut College. Once a great whaling center, New London has not forgotten its history.



In recent years, New London had fallen on hard times, but the city is now experiencing a resurgence, thanks to the efforts of some devoted residents. Since I first began visiting New London, that is, over the past three years, there has been a noticeable increase in the number of lunch options available downtown. Quantify this trend, and you have a pretty valid measure of the fortunes of any city, I think. Some storefronts still have empty windows, but a local artists’ group has dressed the windows with art installations. There is a fledgling club and arts scene due to low rents, and an active core of local food enthusiasts.


Fiddlehead's Food Cooperative has been gathering steam for the last couple of years. Every Saturday, farmers and artisanal bakers offer a variety of local products there. A separate institution, the New London Farmers’ Market (Saturday mornings) sets up shop in the parking lot next to the New London Tourist Information Center. Here are some pictures from last fall. Have you ever before seen black beans offered by the bushel?





We talked to one of the local producers, Warren Burrows, of Groton Family Farm, who encourages visitors at his farm. We told Mr. Burrows about our interest in local events. He mentioned a Mushroom Festival at the Denison Nature Center that takes place annually during the first week of October. (Scroll down for information on this year’s festival.)

Hygienic Restaurant is not a restaurant at all, a discovery that, I have to say, was quite disappointing. Only partially consoling is the reality: it’s an art gallery and coffee house with the campiest name ever.



For breakfast, head down to Norm’s Diner. It’s a 24/7 spot just off I-95 a few miles from New London in adjacent Groton. Groton has its own brand of military-industrial charm, being home to the U.S. Naval Submarine base.



If I were a Hollywood director doing one of the mediocre class-tension-driven romance/coming-of-age movies that even the most brilliant auteur cannot seem to avoid in Hollywood (An Officer and a Gentleman, Mystic Pizza, Return to Me, et al.), I would use Norm's Diner as a location. Deborah Winger or Julia Roberts or Minnie Driver would be there, snapping her gum and wearing a Norm’s Diner t-shirt as she waits tables and meets cute with Richard Gere, David Duchovny, or whatever leading man has been bullied into this critically doomed “date movie of the summer” by his agent. Richard or David might order this ham and egg on a Portuguese roll, so he can gesture, sandwich in hand, while Deborah/Julia/Minnie crosses her arms with a crooked smile.









What I ate at Norm’s was not photogenic, but it was good. Eggs and peppers scrambled with Philly steak slices and cheese on a roll. I made it most of the way through, too.

The next scene, predictably, would take place outside the very promising looking Gigante’s Grinders, on Thames street, down toward the submarine base. Gigante’s is the sort of place where the crusty-yet-avuncular character actor looking for his last shot at a sentiment-based Oscar would play the owner/counterman. For his star turn he’d talk some sense into one or both of the reluctant young lovers and save them from parting (a decision they would both regret for the rest of their lives).
Cynic that I am, have I had a grinder at Gigante’s? No, I have not. And that makes me a true romantic, of a sort. Any place that can survive on this industrial strip in Groton serving Italian grinders has to be really, really good. I want to believe that.

If I were to continue with the movie scenario, there would be a romantic dinner and at Tony D’s Italian Supper Club in New London. With its white tablecloths and red leather booths, Tony D’s is comfortable and special, if not truly sophisticated. I may be embellishing here, but I could swear they were playing Frank Sinatra when my daughter and I ate there last. Tony D’s offers smoky white bean and escarole soup, very good spaghetti and meatballs, veal dishes and freshly filled cannoli.





Elizabeth enjoyed the lemon sorbetto in a hollowed-out lemon. I’ve never eaten there on a busy night, but the service has always been attentive and friendly. My daughter and I agree that Tony D's is the best dinner place in New London, and we ended up eating there every chance we got over the past year. (We tried, but ultimately were disappointed by the Thai/Japanese and Indian options downtown.)

A place that wouldn’t make the list of locations for my B-movie is Mangetout, a tiny, stylish, local-organic luncheon spot. Mangetout has very high aspirations and delivers a limited menu prepared by someone who knows how to cook – and bake.





We had a lovely lunch of asparagus-herb soup ($7.00/bowl, $3.50/cup) and berry muffins there last spring. Inventive combinations included Blue Cheese–Zucchini Panini, and Chicken Wrap with Curried Apricot Sauce ($7.25). We didn’t eat dinner there, but I imagine their take on Vegetarian Lasagna would have been delicious. Mangetout’s owner couldn’t have been nicer. She is involved in the locavore movement and have it on good authority that she has been very generous with her energies on various local projects. As hard as it is to find vegetarian and vegan options, Mangetout is a nice addition to downtown New London. Note: Mangetout is a small place. Service can be very slow during odd hours.

Scratching my head for other downtown lunch options, I tentatively suggest Lobster on the River, which has a loosely run feel, lackadaisical service, and a decent enough hot lobster roll. Crisp green beans and housemade slaw were a bonus. A deck looks out on the New London railroad tracks and the port (nothing too picturesque). We were invited to order from both the regular menu and the menu of Cuban specialties from the sister restaurant downstairs, Little Havana. The lechon sandwich was dry, but was served with fresh corn. Grilled shrimp with mango-black bean salsa was fresh. Caveat: I haven’t been to Lobster on the River for a year, so things may have changed.



Another, more reliable lunch option is Sayeed’s International Market, a family owned and operated jewel that offers a wide selection of international groceries, and specializes in Middle Eastern food. Most of the lunch options run about $6.00-$7.00. Sayeed’s is located pretty near the beach, and it would be a good place to pick up a healthy veggie lunch if you can avoid the lure of Fred’s Shanty and fried clams.



If you are being virtuous with a healthy lunch, you can always make a concession to your inner glutton and indulge in a few of Sayeed’s Middle Eastern pastries, at about $1.50 each.



I add Fred's Shanty to this list only because it came up as the most recommended option on other food boards. Fred's is seasonal, located near the beach, and I have never managed to get there when it was open.

A final mention is due the Lighthouse Inn, if not for the food, for its striking resemblance to Fawlty Towers - if Basil Fawlty were a blonde bombshell in a silver dress and four-inch heels and fingernails. Honestly. The place needs no floor show. It was absolute chaos, from the ditzy, disorganized front desk to the 16 year-old clueless hostesses and nobly beleaguered waitstaff. Perhaps “chaos” isn’t quite fair. Slapstick would be a more accurate term for what I observed. Oh yes, and the lawn was being transformed into a Polynesian paradise for a Hawaiian luau the following night. The good news was the medium-rare prime rib. I didn’t trust the seafood options, and I figured that even Basil Fawlty could get prime rib right. Besides, it’s hard to achieve 100%, even 100% failure. Stay there if you must, but bring your sense of humor - and perhaps a bottle.

Groton Family Farm
70 Fort Hill Road
Groton, CT 06340
http://www.grotonfamilyfarm.com

Denison Pequotsepos Nature Center
109 Pequotsepos Rd.
Mystic, CT 06355
Mushroom Festival 2008
September 28, 2008, 3 p.m.
Outdoor festival celebrating wild mushrooms through tasty delights prepared on-site, live entertainment, wild mushroom identification walks.
(860) 536-1216
http://www.dpnc.org

Fiddleheads Market/Food Coop
13 Broad Street
New London, CT
(860)444-5678
http://www.fiddleheadsfood.coop/
10AM-2PM every Saturday
2:30 – 6:30 “mini-store” every Wednesday

Sayeed’s International Market
464 Ocean Avenue
New London, CT
(860) 440-3822

Norm’s Diner
171 Bridge St
Groton, CT
(860) 445-5026‎

Gigante Grinders
245 Thames St Groton, CT
(8600449-1100

Mangetout Organic Café
140 State Street
New London, CT
(860) 444-2066
http://www.mangetoutorganic.com

Lobster on the River and Little Havana
114 Bank St
New London, CT
(860) 447-3873

Sayeed’s International Market
464 Ocean Avenue
New London, CT
(860) 440-3822

Fred’s Shanty (Seasonal)
272 Pequot Ave.
New London, CT
(860)447-1301
http://www.fredsshanty.com/

Tony D’s Restaurant
92 Huntington Street.
New London, CT 06320
(860) 443-9900

The Lighthouse Inn
6 Guthrie Place
New London, CT
lighthouseinn-ct.com

Great post once again! You've been finding a number of places I've never heard of--my list of restaurants to try is steadily increasing, thanks in part to your posts!

I used to go to that area quite often several years back (mostly Stonington and Essex), though I haven't been in a year or two. Stonington has some neat dining spots (Noah's is a favorite of mine) and Essex has a couple of interesting places (the Griswold Inn is a great place for a drink on a rainy afternoon).

Thanks, hiddenboston. I remember the Griswold Inn being a very charming quintessentially New England inn, but the last time I was there was about 25 years ago. I think I will make a visit there sometime this fall and post.

Glad to see the dining scene has improved out there.
Four and a half years ago I was given the option of moving out there or taking an awesome severance package. At that time the dining options were Italian, Italian, Italian, Japanese, Thai, Indian, Chinese, Italian, Italian, Italian, Italian. And a couple pizza places.
The lack of culture was only one reason for not going out there (no promotion was in the works, and leaving meant lots of cash in pocket).

But I may end up there periodically (they're now a customer of my current employer), so I'm very happy to see I can avoid starvation by boredom.

JoelF-

Glad to be of service.

My LTH-honed chowdar has been quite useful in New London. You will be able to find something good to eat there, with a little tenacity. There are more than a few places that I still need to investigate, including what looks to be a promising dinner only French bistro on Bank Street, and Jamaican, Mexican and BBQ take-out spots (BBQ is the closest place to eat near Pfizer HQ).

Mystic tends to be the town where the most restaurants are clustered (due to tourist traffic). People in New London will send you over there for dinner. But, with the exception of the hotel restaurant at the Inn at Mystic, my daughter and I were severely underwhelmed by the fare in six tries at dinner in Mystic. The Daniel Packer Inne bar (downstairs in a circa 17-something house) is charming for a drink, and Zagat-rave-rated Bravo Bravo is mobbed and merely acceptable. The locals warned us off Mystic Pizza, and we ended up getting a mediocre version of CT Greek style pizza while longing for New Haven style.

If you are on an expense account and are not allergic to casinos, the Foxwoods is located a short drive from New London. (The hotel there may be the best choice you have, in fact. Avoid the New London Radisson if you possibly can.) Food & Wine is sponsoring a "food festival" at Foxwoods Sept. 26-28 and Johnson & Wales is the partial beneficiary of the event. Morimoto and Pepin might be worth the admission price.

Providence is nearby. You've got to fly into somewhere, right? You can eat well on Federal Hill and have a heck of a pizza at Caserta's. Even the Providence airport has a decent branch of Legal Seafood (located near the entrance to I-95).

Just a few more thoughts for you.

Passing thru New London en route to a round of golf, fortification was found in the form of what might be the ideal in brekkie sandwiches.

Unless there's a proper biscuit to be had, my preference of vehicle for delivering salty porkmeats and eggs is a right roll, surprisingly not a trivial matter. Kamp Dog not only has the right roll, but a grillman (owner) doing them justice. Snausage, egg'n'cheese is certainly not an objectionable way to go.

Sausage, egg & cheese:


"The Porker" is whatcha want. Two eggs, ham, bacon, sausage, cheese.


Sadly, demand no longer supports the supply of The Dippers, which are sausage nugs wrapped in ham, bacon, deep-fried, then battered and deep-fried again and served with maple syrup to dunk.

PS. if you hail from Chicago, as you know, don't order a dog.

Kamp Dog
15 Broad St
New London, CT 06320
(860) 443-3000
http://www.kampdog.com

Nab- what led you to Kamp's?

Hey J - I was looking for a grab'n'go brekkie beyond Dunkin, came upon the Roadfood entry (linked above) which described The Dippers, and decided there'd be no better snack to bring aboard the golf cart. Alas.