Eyrie, Oak ParkIt’s kind of a big deal when a restaurant opens in Oak Park, The-Town-That-Seems-Like-It-Should-Have-More-Good-Restaurants-Than-It-Actually-Does.
Sitting by the window at student-run Eyrie, I marveled that every single civilian who walked by had to stop (or at least slow down) and peer into the newly opened storefront restaurant.

Eyrie, the student-run restaurant of Robert Morris University, is now open and ready for business – and they are really, really ready. There were definitely more student chefs in the house than there were customers, and although this gave Eyrie the feel of a resort-town-in-the-off-season, the students are almost painfully sincere and truly committed. And the idea of a “lab” where culinary students can see what it’s like to work in a restaurant is a helpful corrective to the troublesome trend of students walking out of culinary school and expecting to get their own Food Network series. (Jeff “Sandwich King” Mauro, congrats on your
Food Network Star win, but you’re not helping this situation).
Last week, I was talking with Scott Walton, Executive Chef at Markethouse in Chicago, and he mentioned that “Young chefs think that working in a kitchen is magical, because of what they’ve seen on television.” No doubt,
Top Chef has inspired young ones to seek culinary degrees as surely as
CSI has inspired degrees in criminology and forensic science. Eyrie has the advantage of being freestanding, unlike similar operations at Kendall College and Le Cordon Bleu. It is, according to Oak Parker and chef/instructor Cheryl Corrado, “more like a real restaurant experience” and thus more of a valuable learning experience for students. “It doesn’t have that school buffer,” Corrado pointed out, “and so students don’t actually feel like they’re in class, in school. Here, students can be a no-show and call me about making up a class. This is a job, a responsibility that they have not only to fellow students but to me and to people who are walking through the door. Because we’re a freestanding restaurant, this is a job that students go to, and not just a class. And the students are very pumped to be here.”

The Whitefish Sandwich was lightly fried and the lemon remoulade provide good acidic counterpoint to the crisp batter. Though not indicated on the menu, this sandwich comes with a small salad and fingerling potatoes, so for $10, that’s pretty much all you’d need for lunch.

Gratuities are not accepted, though the menu tells us we can make a donation to the Robert Morris University Scholarship Fund…but you have to go home and get on your computer and go to their website to do that. I think this is an admirable but problematic approach. I doubt many will take the initiative to go to the site to donate 15-20% of their check total to the RMU. In addition, it seems that student servers should acquire an understanding of how tipping works, an education they won’t receive under this system. Still, it’s a nice idea.
So was the experience at Eyrie flawless? No, but it was opening day, and I’m not going to nit-pick a restaurant that was open less than an hour when I stopped in. It's a good place to eat, and we can always use more of that kind of place in of in Oak Park.
Eyrie
128 N. Oak Park
Tuesday-Saturday, 11AM-2PM
http://www.robertmorris.edu/eyrie/
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins