To me what makes LTH a GNR is that they take dishes that other restaurants do not do very well, and treat them with exceptional respect. The clams is a particularly good example with sauce that in other hands can be gloppy. Or shrimp toast that can in other hands be soggy. Or salt-and-pepper shrimp than can be bready.
LTH is not my favorite Chinese restaurant (I prefer Sun Wah or Lao Sze Chuan or Katy's), but it reminds me how excellent Cantonese food can be in caring hands.
Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik