Made a reservation at AM for last Saturday at 5p. Then out came the Trib review. The place was almost empty when we arrived, and mobbed when we left.
Started with cocktails. Baie Rose and Blood Orange Gimlet were both pretty sweet. Sazerac was spot on. As for the rest of the drinks, we brought our own wine (04 Paso Robles Rhone blend which was really very nice in its surprising restraint), and then moved on to a few wines by the glass. Montepulciano Rose was properly crisp and enjoyable. Reds were too young and rowdy - we had both the Rioja and Veneto Pinot Noir.
Rillettes were decent, a pretty housemade pot of fat to spread on the toasts, but not memorable. Pickled cherries on the menu were substituted for - pickled peaches were surprisingly flavorless.
Cured Fresh Sardines were big, meaty, a sweet/salty taste of the sea with a nice herbal/vinegar note. Excellent ingredient allowed to shine.
Eggplant frites were similar to the Rillettes, nicely done, decent, not exciting. Again, the accompaniment, caper-arugula sauce, did not have the kick I expected.
The Roasted Pepper, Olive, Feta and Zatar flatbread was tasty. Good, crispiness, with a nice long, Zatar finish highlighting the roasted peppers. Pretty tasty.
We ordered all the pastas -
Tortellaci filled with goat cheese, and sauced with truffled brown butter was sinful. Nicely made and truffled with restraint, and delicious
Ravioli with a pork/spinach filling and salt pork marinara was surprisingly light (!) - I would have said veal if I did not know. Again, a nice light touch with the salt pork resulting in a tangy marinara with a salty note that I could not have identified without the menu description. This was my favorite dish between the confounding aspect of the filling and the nice bite of the sauce.
Tagliatelle with rock shrimp bay scallops and sweet pea sauce. Not sure about this one - shrimp and scallops were far from overwhelming, not a lot of them. The pasta was sort of coated with cream, so you almost (but not quite as the quality and quantity of the sauce was much more harmonious) ended up with a light alfredo with not enough seafood. But then there was the bright, green, vibrant pea puree that said spring, freshness, and was very nice even if it did visually recall Gerber's. I would not get it again, but suggest they try some brown butter/pea sauce variations instead.
We skipped the large plates, all meat, and instead ordered almost all of the deserts.
Chocolate pot de creme was the obligatory pot of creamy chocolate (as I expected and would have avoided, so you should not put much store in my opinion on that). Bunuelos were crisp, sweet squares of puffy dough over a small pool of honey. The third dessert was some sort of hazelnut tart, I think. Nothing special at all about desserts, and I would share a meat course and skip dessert if I had to do it again.
By the time we left, just after 630, the place was almost full, and very noisy. Service was generally prompt, knowledgeable and always pleasant. Total bill ended up around $50 pp, including drinks and corkage.
We all enjoyed our meal. Interesting food, nice amount of ambition and skill coupled with restraint resulting in a few excellent dishes and everything else was good. Not sure how they are going to deal with their new found fame though they seemed to be doing fine (if one neglects the noise level) last Saturday. I will not be going back at a peak time, if only because of the noise. I also think this is a place that will age well as they continue working together and keep trying different combinations, eventually building a menu of greatest hits - should keep improving over time.
I wish them luck.
d
Feeling (south) loopy