Some troubling news from P.S. Bangkok.
Before I delve into this, I need to note, once again, that short of having a financial or a familial interest in the place, I really couldn't be less impartial about P.S. Bangkok. Sue, the owner and head chef, basically watched my sister and I grow up. We've been going there since at least the late 80s -- possibly earlier -- and have celebrated too many life milestones there to count.
Which is why I was extremely distraught to learn this evening that Sue's struggling to keep the place afloat, and while I'm not sure if closure is imminent, it sounds like it's not far off if things don't turn around pretty quickly. I feel a little weird doing this, but if I were to learn at some point this winter that this restaurant had closed -- the one that had perhaps the most profound impact on my love of food as I was growing up -- if I hadn't at least put out the SOS, I'm not sure I'd be able to forgive myself.
It's hard for me to discuss Sue's food, because it's so much a part of my childhood that I'm completely unable to see it objectively. And that's why I've never posted about the food in detail, here or elsewhere. It's not like Spoon, TAC, Aroy and other LTH favorites. But it's not like the gaggle of typical Americanized Thai joints, either. I've never had Thai like it anywhere -- definitely explosive, big flavor, usually sweet, with the kind of sometimes silly non-Thai dish names that haven't changed since the 80s -- and I guess it could best be described as Sue's Thai. If you asked me to name another place like it, I couldn't. In any case, these are some of the dishes that always hit the table when I have a rare chance to visit. Most of these have actual Thai names, but it somehow seems wrong not to use the names that have been on the menu for decades.
Bite Size DelightA long time ago, Sue used to sell this as an off-menu item she called "Seven Kinds," where she'd put out a platter with piles of components -- minced ginger, shallot, dried shrimp, peanuts, lemongrass, Thai chiles and slivers of fresh lime. You'd grab a little of each in your hand and pop them back like a little snack. When she finally put it on the menu, it arrived as Bite Size Delight, now individually assembled on leaves of Chinese broccoli, piled with toasted coconut and served with a sweet topping made with fish sauce. It's a great little starter.
Steamed DumplingsA sweet and peanutty concoction with a ground chicken base, in a steamed rice wrapper and practically smothered with fried garlic, I don't think I've ever once ordered enough of them. They disappear... quickly.
Som TumSue's som tum has always been a favorite, not long on subtlety. Hers is sweet, very spicy, and very, very garlicky.
Tangy BeefThe tangy beef is one that's always gotten mixed reviews from friends -- some love it, some hate it -- but it's another that's on the table every time my family goes. It's a sweet and spicy concoction, heavy with fish sauce, spiked with a mix of fresh and dried chiles, and fragranced with a lot of ginger and citrus.
Green CurryLess polarizing is the green curry, which I've always thought was one of Sue's strengths. It's a thick and sweet rendition, but always a great blend of fresh herbs, and always fiery. This is the dish upon which I built my tolerance for chiles as a preteen.
Pad See EwThe crown jewel for us, however, is the pad see ew, always ordered crispy. Best with pork, I think, P.S. Bangkok is the only place where I've ever encountered a crispy pad see ew. And "crisp" is almost misleading. The noodles are downright crunchy, bathed in a thick and dark sauce, with meat and greens. This is one that's universally beloved by everybody I've taken over the years.
Those are our old family favorites. No doubt there are plenty of others that are worthwhile (it's a big menu). These are just the ones that 20+ years of regular visits have slowly distilled down to. And living across the country, now I get there so infrequently that on the rare occasions when I visit, there's little incentive to explore.
In any case, I hope you'll forgive me for getting all sentimental, here. The prospect of potentially losing this place has just really hit me hard, and I felt compelled to write something about it. I know there's some love for P.S. Bangkok on the board, and if you're in that crowd, I guess I'd just urge you to get in there, or get it back in the rotation if it's fallen out. P.S. Bangkok has been around for such a long, long time -- since the days when we had to explain to people that Thai food was from Thailand, not Taiwan -- that it's easy, I think, to take it for granted. And I'm getting very worried that one day soon it's just going to be gone.
P.S. Bangkok3345 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL 60657
773-871-7777
Dominic Armato
Dining Critic
The Arizona Republic and
azcentral.com