Go Roma. See Roma Go. Go, Go Roma. Fast Food as an LTH topic has been getting a lot of attention in the past week or so, and as I’ve done my duty this past week
by posting about a traditional but heretofore un-posted about place, I felt I earned the right to post about another unposted about place that would probably, fairly or not, be put in the fast food category.
On the train downtown for dinner, The Wife and I were sitting across from a guy who was regaling his pal with tales of having eaten a KFC Double Down. We momentarily made eye contact, so I had a brief conversation with the guy.
ME: You had one of those Double Downs, hunh?
GUY: Yeah.
ME: You like it?
GUY: Yeah, I did.
ME: Wasn’t it hard to hold? I mean, I heard the stuff inside – bacon and cheese and stuff – kind of slips out of the fried chicken “sandwich.”
GUY: No, it comes in a paper wrapper, so you can hold onto that, plus I didn’t get the chicken fried; I got it grilled.
This seemed a little odd to me, in that if you’re going for the Double Down from Kentucky FRIED Chicken, why wuss out with the healthy option? Not that there are not healthy options with fast food, which brings me to last night’s dinner at Go Roma on State Street. I was invited to dine there by Go Roma’s publicist, and as usual I could order whatever I wanted, and as with many dinners like this, they knew I was coming but it’s hard to imagine how the food would have been made differently for me than for anyone else.
Go Roma trades on “healthy” food, by which I do not mean ugh-worthy “health food” but just stuff that is fresh, not heavy, and relatively lower in calories, fat, etc. Upon entering the downtown location I ran into a one-time personal trainer of mine, who also lives in Oak Park, and who also apparently felt the trip was worth it: he’s one solid muscle and the fact that he chose this place says a lot about the perceived healthfulness of the food. And it is…good, not on the level of Spiaggia or Spacca Napoli, but heavy on vegetable, light on fried items, and very reasonably priced (case in point: 500 ml of wine is about $8, less than a single glass at many other local restaurants).

Toasted (not fried) Ravioli – tasty
We enjoyed a “Country Style” rigatoni, which was largely veg and featured sausage as a condiment rather than the dominant flavor, which for a warm night was welcome. We tried a pizza, which the menu said was “hand-stretched,” and it was just fine, with a slightly chewy crust. A little heavy on the toppings, but this kind of excessiveness is pretty much expected. Authentic? Probably not, but we liked it fine, and
it would have rated well in terms of this week’s Timeout Chicago survey of local pizzas and their rankings on the char index. The sign outside boasts “real chefs,” and that may be the case, though our Pear and Walnut salad had pear pieces that were all kind of stuck together, suggesting perhaps precutting and rapid assembly, but that’s a small point.
We felt a little bit rushed in that apps and entrees came out very quickly and almost all once, but the very name of the place suggests motion; “easy in, easy out” is written on their windows as a kind of motto, so speedy service was to be expected and I'm sure it's usually appreciated.
This is not food that will worry Mantuano or even Maggiano’s, but aside from being fast (which does matter to a lot of people, especially at lunch time), Go Roma’s food is fresh and we pretty much cleaned our plates.
What we call “fast food” franchises are popular, and like popular movies or popular music, they reflect a culture. As such, I feel they are worthy topics of discussion, perhaps even in a meta-food way, as emblems of a zeitgeist. Not to sound too cerebral about all of this, but Go Roma’s healthier focus strums a cultural chord that contrasts with KFC’s currently most-talked exercise in conspicuous excess. Honestly, I’m starting to feel an obligation to eat a Double Down in the same way that I felt an obligation to eat at Alinea.
Go Roma, multiple locations:
http://www.goroma.net/content/menu.htmlPS. I’m wondering whether the term “fast food” actually makes much sense anymore. What, exactly, constitutes a fast food place? If speed matters most, then Manny’s is fast food. If multiple franchise locations is the key differentiator, then Al’s Beef is fast food. If soul-less mass produced chow is the hallmark of the fast food joint, then based on reports from two family members, Mother’s Day brunch at the Signature Room is a kind of relatively expensive fast food.

In the backroom at Gene and Jude’s right before yesterday’s breakfast, also fast and good
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins