Having visited Nashville for a few days in 2011, and then spent a few days in Memphis last month, I guess this is as good a place as any to weigh in on the debate and report on my dining experiences.
I would happily go back to Memphis any time, but see no point in going back to Nashville.
In Nashville, I enjoyed the Country Music Hall of Fame a lot, but found the music otherwise pretty disappointing, very commercial and mainstream, not terribly country. The people were very conformist - literally everyone wearing blue jeans, mostly white, same shirts, caps, etc. And not that friendly.
Food was marginally better - I had a fun time on the hot fried chicken track one night. Princes was a greasy mountain of chicken sitting on some bread, dusted with hot pepper and hot sauce. To be fair, I carried this out, so it might have been a bit better right out of the fryer, but it was still good, just not great. OTOH, I loved Bolton's chicken. Cooked perfectly (I found Prince's a bit dry) and the seasoning just snapped for me. Right up there with the best fried chicken I have enjoyed.
Went to Loveless Cafe later. Very good biscuits, food was respectable overall. The whole experience was a bit on the slick, prepackaged side for me, but I really have no beef with the food.
Memphis just seemed a lot friendlier, a lot more diverse, and I loved the music. Blues mostly for me, with a big, friendly crowd. Also visited the Soul Museum (the former Stax studio, rebuilt as a sort of Disneyesque destination). Grew up loving that music, so it touched me. Strange that Graceland with all its slick organization and marketing is so much more real in every way. Was never a great Elvis fan despite having lobbied the Bride to elope to Las Vegas and tie the knot with Elvis officiating (she relented on our 10th anniversary and we renewed our vows with the King, though she vetoed my choice of Heartbreak Hotel first, Suspicious Minds was my second choice, in favor of the musically inferior Hawaiian Love Song). But I found Graceland on a cold Tuesday morning sort of charming and real, felt like I got Elvis in a way I never had before.
Also drove a few miles out into the country one evening to see this delightfully awfully hillbilly comedienne whose name escapes me.
As for food - Gus's Famous Chicken was delicious, hot, crispy, spot on. I did add some hot sauce. Fried dills on the side completed it. Excellent. At the other end of the spectrum, I tried out Payne's BBQ and it was a disaster. On the plus side, the chopped pork had lots of crispy, burnt ends mixed in, seemed to have decent smoke flavor, but the sauce was a cloyingly sweet disaster (and I asked for the hot sauce) only slightly offset by the chow chow topping. After a couple of bites my palate got used to the sweetness and I could taste the other notes, but despite a great homey/seedy atmosphere, I will never go back.
The best thing about it was that Elmwood Cemetery was nearby, so I went and walked off my lunch and cleared my head among the graves.
Somewhat better was Corky's BBQ. Tried a slab, half dry, half wet. Pretty well cooked, nice pull, good beans on the side. Seasoning and smoke did not quite work for me as well as most other styles, but that was more a matter of taste for me than any flaw in the ribs. I would go with the dry rub next time.
Lastly, I enjoyed two massive breakfasts at Blue Plate Cafe. Fried eggs, country ham, biscuits (gravy at your option), pancakes or potatoes. Truly gut busting, if deliciously irresistible. It was a relief to leave town and be away from that temptation. One or two more and I do believe I would have exploded.
And maybe it was my attitude during the visit, but I made a lot of new friends in Memphis.
Not adding the addresses here as all of these places are pretty easy to Google.
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Feeling (south) loopy