Many thanks to VI for the heads-up on this overlooked gem in east Oak Park
A bit like walking into butcher shop past. Throw a little sawdust on the floor, bring in a large butcher block chopping block and they'd be right there. One guy behind the cases boning out chicken thighs, two guys behind the short case putting together a large order. Nice man comes up and says "If you don't see it, that don't mean we don't have it. Might have some Moose back here, maybe." We both laugh.
I tell him I'm looking for something like a NY Strip or such for a little grilling this weekend and he smiles and says "I've got the steak for you. Porterhouse.". He disappears into the ancient meat locker for a minute or two and emerges with an entire short loin and says "Show me how thick you want 'em." I make an indication about 1 1/2" thick and he smiles - "What time's dinner?"
He fires up the ancient band saw and cuts the steaks. (Looking at the steaks I notice that he's given me steaks from the end with the largest part of the tenderloin. Unlike pre-wrapped at Costco where you get two small ends and one medium / large end per package- big bonus points.) "How do you want them trimmed?" (Note that he hasn't weighed and priced them in the method of Whole Paycheck before asking about trimming - more big bonus points from me). "I always ask. Some people like them with no fat, others want it all. I don't want to get yelled at." I suggest a nice half inch layer all around. "Man knows his steak. What time's dinner, again?"
A few more customers have come in - one lady is buying a whole smoked bone-in ham. "Half for me and half for my Mother."
A guy who has finished working on the large order walks up sees my steaks and says "Flintstone steaks, my favorite."
My order's getting weighed up;the man punches in $7.99 / pound for 5 lbs of nicely trimmed Porterhouse. He looks at me and says "How does thirty-five sound?"
Sounds like I've found a new butcher shop.
The follow-up:
Couldn't wait until tonight to cook up those beautiful steaks, so we had 'em last night! They were really, really, really good.
I recently borrowed David Waltuck's "New Steakhouse Cookbook" from the OPPL and have adopted some of his techniques. Simply put, he advises 1.5 tbsp of kosher salt (or coarse sea salt), 1 tsp black pepper and a 3-4 tbsp of good olive oil per porterhouse. Seems like a lot but some stays on the platter (to mix in with the juices later) and some falls into the grill. That's it and that's all these steaks needed.
In the before cooking picture, I can see the fine marbleing I'd associate with prime grade. These weren't aged steaks, but Alton Brown did a show on aging beef at home and I've done it a bunch of times. I'm certainly going to do it again.
I recall attending a meeting with Julia Child and Jacques Pepin that was moderated by Morely Safer. In that meeting many remarkable things were said, with one of them particulary applicable to these steaks.
Ms. Child noted that there were grading inaccuracies in the USDA system and talked about how approximately 20 - 25% of choice grade beef would be better labeled near prime. That's what I got from Blue Ribbon yesterday.
I don't know if I was just lucky, but I think these guys know how to pick out the good stuff.
At the same meeting Mr. Pepin said he was certain that nearly 80% of prime grade porterhouse in the country is bought by Peter Luger and Lobel's in NYC - not much prime left for the rest of the USA. At what works out to $7.29 / lb I'm ecstatic.
VI, Thanks ever so much for the early tip-off!!
The country ham looked great; dense and nicely smoked. I'm impressed with the range of items they displayed. Chicken, beef, pork, sausages and the specials on wall...much to explore.
Blue Ribbon Butcher
426 N Austin Boulevard
(just north of Lake street on west side of Austin)
Oak Park, IL
708.524.9766