Long ago there was sort of an omnibus post on this topic. By definition, it should still be relevant, except to the extent some of the places have closed or dipped.

I'd add the atmospheric and authentic Club Lago. I'd steer clear of anything with marinara but much of the other stuff on the tavern's menu is fine. It's really about the place, the people and cold Peroni on tap. Not sure if it's mentioned above, but Bertucci's Corner in Chinatown is a board favorite among some and another of the vanishing breed of Italian corner taverns that resonate with many as essentially Chicagoan (or at least classical big-city ethnic).

Great thread. And because of a tip from MarshallK, I had the pleasure of trying the aforementioned Abruzzo's in Melrose Park last night.

Yes, daughter and I were "once-over'd" upon arrival to the front part of this cozy, homey restaurant/bar by a couple of the neighborhood goombahs, but in a friendly way. We chose to sit in the ample back room of the former 70-year old Division Street Tap, and were greeted by a smiling, middle-aged waitress, who brought a pitcher of water and some toasted Italian bread.

We ordered grilled calamari, which came hot & dressed in a fabulous light viniagrette, with plenty of juice for bread-sopping. I also liked that there were lots of baby tentacle groupings, which were very tender. Soup--which is gratis with all entrees--was escarole meatball, and I had forgotten how tasty this brothy goodness can be when done right. Daughter enjoyed & finished her tilapia limon, with tomato coulis & crunchy, sauteed broccolini--very good looking dish. My veal parm--an Italian litmus test of sorts--was a mondo portion, which forced me to bring that & some of the accompanying penne marinara (served in its own small skillet) home to reassess today. I thought it was good not great, but I was starting to fill up by that time--I had been hitting that bread pretty hard!

We had not intended on dessert, but the waitress said the cannoli were homemade, so we had to split one. I suppose it still could be debated as to whether these are made on-site or not, but I think I've scarfed enough cannoli (and made them) to know when a shell has just been filled. This was per-fect. Creamy, rich filling, and just the right amount of firmness in the shell--no sogginess whatsoever--and the whole works flecked with a few minced pistachios. Killer stuff, best I've had since my trip to Sicily, and I dare say better than the best in the North End of Boston.

Great, great find--and I may make this a destination for newbies, maybe even out-of-towners who are forever asking me for 'authentic Italian'.

Abruzzo's Italian Restaurant & Lounge
1509 W. Division St. Melrose Park, IL.
http://www.abruzzos.net

jnm and Marshall, I'm intrigued to try Abruzzo's. Question. I can't tell from the atrocious, overly-techified website whether they have a full bar or not. The name "lounge" would seem to suggest so, but the only reference to alcohol I can find on the site is a wine list, so it could be a beer-and-wine-only place. Inquiring inbibers want to know.

Riddlemay,

They do indeed have a full bar.

Oh yeah, riddlemay, full curved bar on one side of the front room, beautiful aged burnished wood, low lighting. The kind of bar you wouldn't mind sitting for a couple hours sipping. In the middle of the room there are a few stand-alone 4-tops, then on the other side are three or four crimson leather curved booths, really cool & retro. In hindsight I wish we would've sat out front. I'll bet they pour a mean martini. House wine is served in small water glasses, and if you order house fortissimo, it's filled to the top.

In closing, while I don't think the fare is quite the best Italian food Chicago has to offer, it's similar to Bruna's on Oakley in that atmosphere is integral to the experience. And yes, it looks like Paulie Walnuts did the website...

We usually end up going to Bacchanalia on Oakley and have never been disappointed.... prefer it much over Bruna's. La Luce looks interesting... will have to try that next time we have a 'old school' craving!

http://www.bacchanaliainchicago.com/