Just about two years ago, I had the opportunity to attend a tasting of Rare Editions malts, a small collection of older bottlings from Diageo's Classic Malts portfolio. Although I normally only write about American whiskey, these are bottles that retail for $200 to $300 each, and there was a four-course lunch at the University Club thrown in too, so how could I say no?
To warm up, we sipped some 10-year-old Talisker, 12-year-old Gragganmore, 14-year-old Oban and 14-year-old Dalwhinnie. Then they rolled out the big guns: 20-year-old Talisker, 25-year-old Talisker, and 32-year-old Oban.
While bourbons become heartier with age, scotches become more subtle. The rough edges are smoothed off, the flavors are more balanced and myriad new flavors appear.
The 20-year-old Talisker was aged in sherry casks, but the other two were in second refill bourbon barrels. In other words, the barrels were used for bourbon when they were new. The first refill was with scotish grain whiskey. The second refill was with malt whiskey. Now bourbon makers would regard a second refill barrel as little better than stainless steel for its aging properties, but the difference between the standard and extra-aged versions of the Talisker and Oban was striking, so I gained a new respect for used cooperage.
Anyway, in case you were wondering, the lunch consisted of salmon with heart of palm and caviar creme fraiche, roasted halibut with leeks and morels, duck breast with sweet potato gnocchi, and a cheese tray for dessert.
I don't have a lot of experience drinking very old scotch, for obvious monetary reasons, but I can say that this experience was sublime and I would gladly repeat it, since it was free.
Many years ago I was given a 25-year-old very fine blended scotch as a gift. It was a lovely package and a very good drink, but the person who gave it to me really should have known I didn't drink scotch, since she was married to me at the time.