Thanks Laikom for the terrific write-up and pictures.
It really was quite an adventure. We had 13 bowls of pho in total, more than enough to really get a sense of what the different restaurants are doing.
In my estimation there was a clear top tier of restaurants: Le's Pho, Nha Hang, Pho 888, and Tank. We debated which was the best amongst them, but it was a difficult task, particularly with so many data points fresh in our minds. What made these stand out was the richness of the broth, the quality and variety of meat (so many bowls had almost no tripe or tendon in them), and the ratio of noodles (sometimes we were left with a bowl half-full of noodles and nothing else).
Le's Pho - This was the only restaurant we visited where the clientele was almost entirely Asian. The service was enthusiastic and the three soups we ordered were all well prepared, though the bun bo hue lagged behind the pho and the bun mam. One thing that stood out at Le's was the different herb plates for each soup. Most places brought out soup-specific plates, but Le's featured the widest range of different ingredients including banana blossoms that were astringent when eaten raw but softened up beautifully in the soup. I also brought home one of their house-made bao which was excellent. My favorite dish of the night was the bun mam (fish soup), which I thought outshined the pho.
Nha Hang - The most charming of all the restaurants we visited. The family that owns the place were exceedingly pleasant and also, it appeared, a little suspicious of our picture-taking. Nha Hang got the details best of all the restaurants. Fragrant and fresh herb plate, tender and flavorful meats, beefy broth with a simple, but distinct spice profile, and some excellent house-made chilli oil that really brightened the soups. The bun mam had a richer, lemongrass-forward broth that was more satisfying but somehow less tasty (though still delicious) than the version at Le's which was spicier and fishier. The other three top-tier phos all came from restaurants that were doing pretty good business, so it made sense they could make fresh broth, whereas Nha Hang was empty when we were there, but they still took care to serve high quality soup. I really hope this place succeeds, based on my first visit, they appear committed to making great food.
Pho 888 - Tank and 888 are far and away the most popular restaurants in the neighborhood. 888 is a smaller dining room than Tank, and was completely full when we were there on a Wednesday night. The pho was probably the most complex with an assertive spice profile that complemented the silky beefiness. It had a nice ratio of meat and noodles that highlighted the skillfully prepared broth. I also really enjoyed the thin, almost translucent rice noodle we ordered on the side (as part of an appetizer plate). Pho 888 is in a category of ethnic restaurants that rises above hole-in-the-wall with its brusque but efficient service and warm but generic atmosphere. Regardless, the food was as good as we had anywhere on the street, clearly there is a commitment to making quality food in the kitchen, even if it's seemingly aimed at a non-Asian crowd.
Tank Noodle - While 888 is kind of an elevated hole-in-the-wall, Tank is more like a cafeteria. The space is large and there's an army of waiters making sure the food is traveling from the kitchen to the table quickly and efficiently. Still, we got pretty good service from our young server who enthusiastically directed us to doctor our pho with hoisin sauce and hot sauce (not knowing that we were totally pho experts by this point) and suggested that next time we order raw beef on the side to keep the beef from overcooking in the broth. The pho was thick and probably the most cinnamon and clove-forward of the top-tier phos. I was honestly a little surprised that Tank had one of the top phos considering how many tables they're serving at once, but what they lacked in details (some wilted herbs, we had to ask them for a ladle a couple times) they made up for with their generous portions of meat (lots of tendon) and the delicious broth. We also ordered the banh xeo, which has long been a favorite of mine. The version at Tank is consistently crispy with a hint of coconut flavor and lots of fresh herbs and lettuce on the side. Considering how busy they always are, Tank is still able to put out solid food and served us a pho that ranked among the best on Argyle.
Beyond the top 4, the only places that stood out were the ones that served particularly bad pho. I'd categorize 3 of the restaurants as having what I'd consider bottom-tier phos: Pho Lily, Dong-Ky, and New Saigon. This works out to a roughly gaussian distribution of 4 above average, 6 average, and 3 below-average bowls. Amongst the average bowls of pho, most suffered from lacking in beefy flavor and a thinner texture. Some were decent broths but the bowl was completely full of noodles with little beef, others had tender meat but an almost flavorless broth. I'd be most interested in revisiting Tien Gang because the broth, while thinner, featured an interesting spice profile that I felt compelled to describe as perfumy, though I'm not sure why. I suspect there might be some great dishes at that restaurant even if the pho was not completely to my liking.
As luck would have it, the three worst bowls of pho we had were the ones we had at the end of the night on the three nights. My first inclination was to attribute this to staff apathy late in the night or a broth that had been sitting out too long, but I don't think this is the case. New Saigon and Dong-Ky were both almost certainly made from a powder. Incidentally these were also the cheapest bowls of pho in the neighborhood, both being under 5 dollars. I'd say Pho Lily may have suffered from our late arrival, and I'd be willing to give it another go, since all the other items we ordered there seemed to suffer from apathetic cooking as well. That said, the broth at Pho Lily was really bad. It was thin and somewhat soapy with an overwhelming flavor of cinnamon.
Argyle is a neighborhood I've long wanted to investigate, and this was the perfect premise to really attack the neighborhood in one fell swoop. I learned a lot about Vietnamese cuisine, and particularly pho. Part of me is curious to try the favorites again, to see if I feel the same way about them with a second glance, but I probably need a little break from pho for a while.