I had dinner at Henri recently, which I found pretty up and down. For me, the cocktails were my favorite part of the meal. It wasn't that anything we ate was bad, it's just that with the exception of a couple dishes, nothing really had me thinking about it after the meal.
I started out with a Haynesworth Old Fashioned, which was luxurious and complex. It's made with Whistlepig 10-year rye, sweet potato syrup and Fee's Aztec chocolate bitters. The drink was garnished with a wide plank of orange zest that had been spiked with a whole clove. Later in the evening, I had an enjoyably spicy Burnham Manhattan, which is made with Wild Turkey rye, Vya sweet vermouth, Fee's aromatic bitters and Michigan cherries. I really liked the cocktails, the first round of which, I think, were sent out gratis because the friends with whom we were dining knew Clint, the bartender. Henri's bar is a sleeper. The house cocktails were interesting and well-executed, and the spirit selection was thoughtfully assembled.
A round of appetizers for our 4-top included smoked steak tartare, lobster and foie gras wellington, escargot bourgogne and torchon of foie gras. My favorite of this round was definitely the torchon, which delivered that signature foie gras richness and dense, buttery texture. The tartare, which was accompanied by a quail egg, potato chips and pickles, was a beautiful plate but flavors were fairly muted and I couldn't really taste any smoke. For me, the best part of the dish were the crispy and addictive potato chips. Flavors in the wellington were nice and well-combined but the pastry was soggy and a bit gummy. I wasn't crazy about the escargot, which just seemed to lack flavor. Curiously, our bread was removed after this course. I thought it was weird because we were nowhere being done with the savory phase of the meal and the bread would have come in handy with some of the courses that followed.
Between appetizers and our next course, we were served some warm, roasted nuts, which are (or are soon to be) a bar snack. They were delicious, with a nice hit of spice to them.
We then shared an order of the crisp veal sweetbreads, which were served with white sturgeon caviar, cabbage and a Banyuls vinaigrette. This was probably my favorite dish of the night. I thought the sweetbreads could not have been cooked any more perfectly. They were piping hot, crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside. They were salted perfectly, too, bringing out the flavor without overwhelming its subtlety. I thought the accompanying elements were well-chosen and well-executed, with the brininess of the caviar foiling the richness of the sweetbreads very well. During this "round," we also shared a Stone Oven Pissaladiere, which was topped with house-cured bacon, caramelized onions, creme fraiche and leeks. It was fine and naturally, the flavors were a successful combination, but it was no better that what I can (and do) make for myself at home. I don't mean this to sound snarky. I just think that it was a very straightforward dish with nothing particularly distinctive about it.
Main courses (curiously called "entrees" at a French restaurant) were, as a group, a bit of a letdown. Truffle poached lobster (beet, woodland mushrooms, beurre monte) had a faint aroma of truffle but not much flavor beyond that. It was also pretty tough and stringy texturally. There was just nothing particularly special about it. The Friday special of Bouillabaisse (fish of the day [St. Pierre & Loup de mer], lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels, saffron broth) was a very refined and stylized version in which a bowl of beautiful looking fish and seafood, all meticulously prepared, were "brothed" tableside. For my taste, I thought the anise notes of the broth were overwhelming and it's not my favorite flavor to begin with, so the dish didn't do it for me personally. Our friend who ordered it, though, seemed extremely happy with it. Fig glazed duck breast (goat cheese "tart" with fig and grape) delivered a nice crispy skin and an unctuous layer of fat below it but again, not much flavor. House-made pappardelle (roasted woodland mushrooms, watercress, shaved Perigord truffle, Madeira cream, Grana Padano) sounded so great but I don't think it came together well. For me, it ended up being less than the sum of its parts and the overall dish was very dry. I did love the mushrooms, though.
Next up was a cheese course, which was sent out for us gratis. I liked all 3 of the cheeses in the assortment and they were served at a nice temperature, which really allowed for the flavors and aromas to rise out of them. I don't remember the names of the cheeses but one was a goat cheese that had been wrapped in bourbon-soaked grape leaves and it was terrific. Another cheese was morbier-like, with a nice funk to it. There was a third cheese but I don't remember what exactly it was. Cheeses were served with fresh raspberries, a fruit compote and some spiced nuts (walnuts?), all of which were tasty.
We shared 2 desserts. The Paris brest was fantastic, with an intense set of flavors and varied textures. The choux was light and tasty. The filling was rich and intense. Even the decorative 'cotton candy' atop it delivered a satisfying layer of flavor. A dark chocolate tart just kind of sat there on the plate and went mostly unfinished. We each had one bite of it and that was enough. It just didn't deliver any of the rich flavors that the words "double chocolate tart" promise.
So, it was a mixed bag. I think Henri has a lot of potential but for me many of the dishes missed their marks. Ingredient quality is high. Not only is the luxury category well-represented but so too are a bevy of local farmers, who are listed at the bottom of the menu. To me (and I've only been to France once, so I'm certainly no expert), Henri felt more French-esque than French. Don't get me wrong, I don't think these dishes needed to be more French to be successful. I'm perfectly willing to judge a dish on its own merits, regardless of its name or declared provenance. I just think that the flavors in many of the dishes we had were really muted. Service, provided by Meghan, was professional, helpful and friendly but I'm sorry to say that this felt exactly how I'd expect a typical Michigan Avenue restaurant to feel. I went in with high expectations but came away feeling somewhat disappointed; almost like I'd eaten somewhere that was mainly geared towards well-to-do visitors, who are equally concerned with staying in the geographical area as they are with what they're eating.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain