Boy, was this place ever a surprise.
I have been lamenting the state of Middle eastern food in Chicago since the metamorphosis of Salam. A recent meal at Dawali was middling and led me to believe options were running thin up Kedzie. I don't make the trek out to my homelands of the SW burbs too frequently these days, but it seems worth a jaunt to Bridgeview to check out the good stuff. And the options in my immediate striking distance range from over-priced and under-seasoned (Chickpea) to douchey- scened and gringo-ized (Sultan's Market). The arrival of a
new kabob spot across the street from me fell from immediate enthusiasm to straight up boycotting (pre-sliced and reheated shwarma, rancid! hummus).
So the sudden appearance of an innocuously named falafel place in the heart of the southward gentrification of Milwaukee Ave. sparked very little interest. And then last week a few friends showed up to my place with kabobs wrapped in well griddled thin pita stuffed with fragrant kifta and home made looking pickles, I was shocked to hear that they'd picked them up from
that place.
The next day I tried them out. The update to the old 7D grill is a near complete makeover, a squeaky clean room flanked in windows that has a nice open feel that puts you right in the action of this busy corner. The place was bustling with all sorts of folks at a late lunch hour. The staff were polite and attentive, more than a bit of family resemblance between the young servers and the men tending to the grill. The doners were amply stocked and for me good shwarma is always a benchmark for the rest of the cuisine. The chicken looked like it had spent a little more time caramelizing to a lovely dark golden hue than the beef/lamb, so I went with that. Too hungry to weigh options on the menu I instinctively ordered a small hummus to start.

This was quite good, though perhaps over garnished. An extra squeeze of lemon juice skewed things a bit too acidic. The minced pickle (peppers?) top knot contributed to further puckering. No matter though, the hummus itself was light and ethereally emulsified, quality tahini bringing up the rear. Interestingly, this dish was served with fluffy pocket-like pita, different than the ones served with the kabob. It was very soft and fresh.

The chicken shwarma kabob was by far the best in recent experiences in Chicago. Very well managed, a perfect balance of meat, veggies, and sauce. The pita was amazing, charred and crisp on the outside and chewy inside. The meat was great, roasted crisp. It had a curry-like spice set with turmeric and fenugreek, I believe. Tahini sauce was rich and tangy. And the addition of very nice full sour pickle really set this sandwich apart. Really good stuff.
Hopefully they will continue to operate at this level, offering fresh and authentic grub to an area lacking in cheap, healthy on-the-go dining options. I'll be back very soon to find out.
Falafel & Grill
1317 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL 60622
(773) 292-8888
http://falafelgrillchicago.com/