Hearts Benji's Deli; Benji's Restaurant & Deli • 8683 N Port Washington Rd • Fox Point, Wisconsin 53217. Best food I had on this trip, a trip that otherwise included the world's slowest McDonald's(which we visited on, apparently, the weekly visit of a local challenged-people facility), Applebee's(nuff said), my first taste of Qdoba(where the waitstaff were a tad exasperated with me when I wasn't familiar with the ordering procedures or the condiments...no, I don't know which salsas are which in those tubs behind the assembly route, sorry), and Taco Bell almost every night after shift 'cuz it was the only thing open except for a mediocre pizza delivery place, Toppers(full disclosure: I like Taco Bell, and rarely get to eat it, just not every night). There was also a Chinese-American, King's Wok, across from the Radisson, doing brisk business, I skipped the free breakfast paid for by the company at Zambonie's(if one ordered off the menu and avoided the steamtable buffet, the food was good, obviously-fresh-made breakfast fare with a modicum of attention to detail)...I skipped the breakfast and traipsed over to King's Wok a couple mornings just as they opened at 11 for their lunch specials(I don't do Chinese buffets). Friendly waitstaff, on point renditions of classic Kung Pao, Hot and Sour Soup, pork fried rice, wonton soup(everything seemingly housemade from the wontons, to the pork, to the sauces...a heady wok hai...good stuff).
But, it's Benji's I fell in love with. This, the second location lodged in the armpit of the stripmall where whirlwinds gathered debris on the mostly stormy days. Not much to say about the interior except it seemed stuck in a timewarp ca. 1983. The four times I ate there(always at the counter) I became more addicted with each bite. Always in the evening, about an hour before they closed, after all my people had gotten their lunches taken care of, that's when I'd clock out, have a smoke, and walk the few yards down to Benji's.
Lunch 1:
mushroom barley soup
1/2 sandwich of cold roast beef on white with swiss and brown mustard
how many times do I have to tell myself, "don't order a roast beef sandwich in a Jewish deli? Don't, Don't, Don't, do not do it, Chris", and I always find myself doing it and thinking, "well, this is the height of mediocrity." Inevitably it's on the Well side of Rare and cut thick and I suck it up and receive a lesson un-learned. It's not that it's ever bad no matter what Jewish delicatessen in whatever city it's just it's not the bleedingly-fine, razorthin, muscle tissue reddening white bread like a bandage that I'm after...like my Opa used to say, "walk it past the stove, give it a good look, I want it while it moos."
Dr. Brown's Black Cherry
Lunch 2:
chicken soup with noodles
1/2 sandwich of pastrami on toasted rye with swiss and brown mustard
Sprecher's rootbeer in the bottle
Lunch 3:
chicken soup with kreplach
1/2 sandwich of corned beef on rye with swiss and brown mustard plus horseradish
(different waitress gave me additional marble rye and butter to nosh on and make mini-sandwiches when my bread ran out before my corned beef did)
Sprecher's rootbeer in the bottle
Lunch 4:
chili
1/2 sandwich of corned beef on rye with swiss and brown mustard plus horseradish
Sprecher's rootbeer in the bottle
each plate came with a decent pickle and a shitload of potato chips
soups were excellent: mushroom barley heaped with toothsome barley, sine qua non chicken soup and a great Jewish wonton, surprisingly, the chili(tho' tomato-based and mild as fuck) hit the right flavor notes of a traditional bowl of red...kudos to Benji's for doing it right and not kowtowing to the Midwestern penchant for "chili soup" or Greek-diner affectations.
Thing is without the opportunity or access to what I'm sure are some great little spots in Fox Point, etc, I was relegated to mainly fast food and finding Benji's was a godsend, after long hours all I wanted was something someone had their hands on, like Benji's succulent, meltingly-tender, corned beef. My body starved for real food. Soulfood. And Benji's hit the spot. They make the corned beef in-house the rest is sourced elsewhere.
It might not be quite in the league of Indianapolis's Shapiro's, but Benji's of Fox Point soothed what ailed me, sent me back to work renewed to close the department night upon night.
Being gauche rocks, stun the bourgeoisie