Foodie Recs in Paris
Foodie Recs in Paris
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Post #31 - April 2nd, 2012, 7:59 amHere is a repost of something I wrote in one of the other Paris threads:Darren72 wrote:My wife and I went to France and Italy last fall and eat at some amazing places. While none are at the level of those you mentioned, some may make a great choice for your other nights. Note that many restaurants are closed one or two days a week and reservations for dinner are appreciated, if not required, even at causal restaurants.
Le Repaire de Cartouche
8, Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire
75011 Paris, France
01 47 00 25 86
Closed Sunday and Monday
Bistro recommended by Patricia Wells and Robert Parker, among others.
http://www.patriciawells.com/paris/ptables-combined.htm
http://www.erobertparker.com/members/gazette/hg493.asp
We ate here on our first night in Paris and it could not have been more perfect. This is a small, cozy bistro. Classic bistro cuisine, excellent wine options, and friendly service. On my other computer I have some notes on what we ate, which I'll try to dig up and post at some point soon.
Au Trou Gascon: Cuisine from Gascony.
40, Rue Taine
75012 Paris, France
01 43 44 34 26
Open Monday to Friday, for lunch and dinner.
autrougascon.fr
Lots of mentions on Liebowitz’s site. See http://www.davidlebovitz.com/paris/
We ate here for dinner on Monday night. This place has one Michelin star, if I recall. Excellent, creative food. Again, I'll see if I can find notes on what we ate.
La Rotisserie du Beaujolais
19, Quai Tournelle
75005 Paris, France
01 43 54 17 47
From David Leibovitz: “Spit-roasted meats spin continuously, at this Seine-side restaurant. Roasted game and chicken are good bets. Open Sunday.”
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/paris/
From Le Figaro “[Open] every day except Monday from 12h to 14h and 20h to 22h15.”
It was slightly more difficult to find a place open on Sunday night, but this place was recommended as a quality, causal choice. We enjoyed the food -- we had a roasted bird of some sort and a rabbit terrine, if I recall. It was good, but not great and I think we'd be much more excited to try other places next time we visit.
Les Fines Gueules
43 Rue Croix des Petits Champs
75001 Paris, France
01 42 61 35 41
lesfinesgueules.fr
This is a very casual, cute place that we went for lunch one day specifically to try the famous steak tartare. It did not disappoint!
From David Leibovitz (if I recall): "As an American in France, getting into the French staple of steak tartare means getting past it's resemblance to an uncooked hamburger patty. At Les Fines Gueules (2, rue la Vrillière, 1st) near place des Victoires they have cap-and-gowned the French standard by hand chopping Limousin beef (the best in France) and tossing the raw meat with white truffle oil, parmesan and sun dried tomatoes. Certainly not a traditional preparation, but an unbelievably delicious part of this American's weekly diet."
Chez Virginie
54, rue Damrémont, 18th
http://www.chezvirginie.com/gb/index.php
This is a cheese shop that specializes in raw milk cheeses from small farms in France. We told them we are raw milk newbies and asked if they could put together a selection of things for us to try. We grabbed a baguette at a nearby boulangerie, a butter knife from a nearby hardware store, and found a nice park bench to sit and eat.
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Post #32 - April 2nd, 2012, 9:06 amI'm headed back to Paris in September so I will be anxious to read all about your dining adventures. I always manage to go to L'Ourcine in the Latin Quarter for a dinner. Very casual, filled with locals. Outstanding. As far as dress goes, you can feel very comfortable in jeans as long as they are more towards the designer types and fitted. Jeans and a jacket were my uniform last time I went to Paris. Tennis shoes are actually okay too if they are high end and fashionable but I'd only wear them during the day, not at night. Scarves are still a fashion statement. Hope you have a wonderful time!
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Post #33 - April 2nd, 2012, 11:27 amMy favorite meal in Paris was at this tiny bistro near the Arc De Triomphe called Le Hide. I don't recall the specific dishes but remember enjoying the hell out of my meal, and wanting to go back the next night, but being too hungry and too far away.
I think they had an extremely reasonable 29 euro three course meal and house wine for 2 euro a glass.
http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides ... etail.html
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Post #34 - April 3rd, 2012, 2:20 pmGeo wrote:BTW, there's a city market at métro Maubert-Mutualité every Tues, Thurs, and Sat. It's a great market, with lots of farmers and producers bringing their stalls and trucks into the city. I did most of my shopping there. It'll be a 5-10 min walk from your hotel.
Geo
Hey, that's my old market! My wife and I (and toddler at the time) spent the summer of 2010 in this neighborhood (18 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine). Great neighborhood and easily walkable. I fully endorse this market. It's small but the suppliers are good. For a bigger market, you can stroll over to the Bastille on Sundays (open on Thursday as well). The Maubert-Mutualite market is the spot to buy picnic items. Along with the small market (great cheese guy - speaks no English but very friendly - try the Chistera), there is a wine shop and a charcuterie shop that I hit at least twice a week while there. Maison Kayser is right around the corner on Rue Monge. Two doors down is his "lunch" spot (Boulangerie Kayser) and a great place to grab a sandwich to go. I trekked all over the neighborhood that summer and both Kayser places were in my almost-daily rotation.
Let's see, what else can I tell you about that neighborhood? There's a nice little beer bar right on Rue Du Ecoles down the street from "Breakfast in America" (skip). You can take Hemingway's route (outlined in A Moveable Feast) to Luxembourg Gardens - a nice walk. For some essentials, if you forget to pack them, the biggest grocery store in the area is Carrefour on Rue Monge and Cardinal Lemoine (right by the Metro stop). It has a decent wine selection as well. Buy your water there and some other "snack" stuff and save some cash - bring your own bag though.
My laundromat was the one on Rue des Bernadins between St Germain and Rue Monge.
A nice stroll through the Jardin des Plantes is recommended. If you'd like to grab a nice gift or something for yourself, head to Diptyque for a perfume or candle.
For a great lunch, you must grab a falafel at L’As du Falafel in the Marais. I recommend to get there early (like 11am) and stand in line for lunch (and eat in the street). It's relatively cheap and really fills you up.
One more thing: the best restaurant guide is "Paris By Mouth" http://parisbymouth.com/ You won't regret researching there.
Places that won't break the bank and I thought were very good and casual (for Paris) were:
-Les Papilles
-A La Biche au Bois
-Café de Musees
I've posted about these and other spots in the other Paris thread http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=11817&hilit=paris&start=30 but if you have any other questions, please feel free to PM me. Have fun!"It's not that I'm on commission, it's just I've sifted through a lot of stuff and it's not worth filling up on the bland when the extraordinary is within equidistant tasting distance." - David Lebovitz
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Post #35 - April 5th, 2012, 11:10 amHey Tyrus, that was our laundromat too! How funny! We lived at 9, r. des Bernardins, just a few meters up from the Pont de la Archeveque. There used to be a really cool Alsatian deli hard by the Cardinal Lemoine métro station, made a fantastic choucroute garni to take away. Our butcher was in that same block as the frommagerie. Oh, another go-to was the Atelier Maitre Albert, which had great food, at not-so-terrible prices. What a fantastic neighborhood!
GeoSooo, you like wine and are looking for something good to read? Maybe *this* will do the trick!
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Post #36 - April 5th, 2012, 7:40 pmGeo wrote:Hey Tyrus, that was our laundromat too! How funny! We lived at 9, r. des Bernardins, just a few meters up from the Pont de la Archeveque. There used to be a really cool Alsatian deli hard by the Cardinal Lemoine métro station, made a fantastic choucroute garni to take away. Our butcher was in that same block as the frommagerie. Oh, another go-to was the Atelier Maitre Albert, which had great food, at not-so-terrible prices. What a fantastic neighborhood!
Geo
I agree about that neighborhood. I swear, our paths will cross one day Geo. You gave me some solid recs on Montreal a couple of years ago and now I find out we lived in the same Parisien 'hood.
We really loved that neighborhood and the OP will be very satisfied. If I had one more bit of advice about how to stretch your Euro, is to not worry about lunch so much. I really liked grabbing a something small for breakfast, a great Parisien sandwich - baguette, butter, ham, cheese - for lunch and splurging a bit on dinner. By that time, you've walked up a good appetite and won't feel bad about indulging on a bottle of wine, cheese course, dessert, etc, over the course of a couple of hours.
Oh yeah, one more thing - if you're lucky enough to have a warmer evening, grab a bottle of wine and head down to the Seine and just soak it up. Once you take the time to slow down, Paris is just that much better.
Enjoy and report back!"It's not that I'm on commission, it's just I've sifted through a lot of stuff and it's not worth filling up on the bland when the extraordinary is within equidistant tasting distance." - David Lebovitz
