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  • Post #31 - June 13th, 2012, 9:07 pm
    Post #31 - June 13th, 2012, 9:07 pm Post #31 - June 13th, 2012, 9:07 pm
    Casa Camper is excellent but quirky. I loved that they have bottled beverages in fridges in the lobby that you can grab any time of day or night, as well as snacks. Their customer service was excellent. They quietly noted my husband's upcoming birthday when checking our passports in, and carefully presented us with a tiny cake during breakfast one morning. The only oddity is that the sitting room/TV area is across the hall in another room from the bedroom and bathroom. So you need to go out into the hallway to watch TV. It's nice if you don't want to disturb the other person, I suppose.
  • Post #32 - June 14th, 2012, 7:55 am
    Post #32 - June 14th, 2012, 7:55 am Post #32 - June 14th, 2012, 7:55 am
    A few years ago we stayed at Hotel Peninsular, just off La Rambla, around the block from the Boqueria market, the Metro, and the entrance to the Gothic Quarter. Great location, inexpensive, but a lousy little hotel. It's a former monastery, and furnished like one -- tile floors with a threadbare rug, a bathroom that *is* the shower, and inadequate heat (we were there in December).

    Most of a year later, I stayed at Hotel Arts, in the center of the beach area. Not as convenient to the metro, but much better accomodations -- but I couldn't have afforded it if it wasn't on business.
    What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
    -- Lin Yutang
  • Post #33 - June 16th, 2012, 5:23 pm
    Post #33 - June 16th, 2012, 5:23 pm Post #33 - June 16th, 2012, 5:23 pm
    Interesting. When I went to the Barcelona region it was to taste wine, not food! Both Freixenet and Cordornieu are at the Sant Sadurini station on the commuter line, about 45 mins from central Barcelona. The tours are great, and, of course, both cavas are splendid: from the driest bubbles to a mildly sweet toasty delight. I'd *really* recommend a visit to both.

    Geo
    Sooo, you like wine and are looking for something good to read? Maybe *this* will do the trick! :)
  • Post #34 - July 17th, 2012, 5:52 pm
    Post #34 - July 17th, 2012, 5:52 pm Post #34 - July 17th, 2012, 5:52 pm
    So, 41 Degrees does a purchase ahead plan like Next and Tickets. They have 4 tops available while I'll be there, but there will only be two of us. Anyone have any idea how I could get rid of the other two seats?
  • Post #35 - August 1st, 2012, 10:02 pm
    Post #35 - August 1st, 2012, 10:02 pm Post #35 - August 1st, 2012, 10:02 pm
    We're just back from a fantastic, life-changing, 10-day, foodcentric trip to Barcelona and Basque Country. There's a lot to recount so I'm just going to take them in the order we hit them.

    After we dropped our bags at the hotel and rested for a bit, we headed out to the frequently recommended Quimet Y Quimet for some tapas, made mostly from superior-quality Spanish canned goods . . .

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    Quimet Y Quimet - Carrer de la Poeta Cabanyes, 25, Barcelona, Spain


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    Elbow to elbow and butt to nut but all things considered, pretty darned comfy :)


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    ¡Hola, Señor!


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    Plenty to drink here but on this night, we went with beer and water


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    Behind the counter, tapas and montaditos are assembled to order . . . and snarfed down with gusto!


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    The scene is controlled chaos and the focus of the staff keeps everything cool


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    This is the woman who took care of us. She was extremely patient and helpful as we hacked our way through the menu


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    A variety of cured and smoked fish, and other goodies


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    Some other canned jewels from the sea. The squid was stuffed with tuna. There were razor clams and mussels, too


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    Montadito of Sardine, Piquillo, Olive


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    Potatoes drizzled with a vinegary honey


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    Sardine, Caviar, Cheese, Tomatoes


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    Anchovies


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    Piquillo, Shrimp, Aioli, Caviar


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    Pate


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    Tuna and Piquillo Pepper with a Spicy Pickled Relish


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    Jet-lagged, disoriented and temporarily overwhelmed by the language barrier, we still managed to do pretty well for ourselves. As the trip went on, we gained focus and things got a lot tighter. Still, this was a great kick-off to our trip and culinarily speaking, a really good place to start.

    =R=

    Quimet Y Quimet
    Carrer de la Poeta Cabanyes, 25
    08004 Barcelona, Spain
    934 42 31 42
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #36 - August 1st, 2012, 11:08 pm
    Post #36 - August 1st, 2012, 11:08 pm Post #36 - August 1st, 2012, 11:08 pm
    Beautiful pix, as always, Ron.

    Potatoes drizzled with vinegary honey. Hmmm, I think I might have a shot at making that at home, and it sounds simply fantastic.
    "Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins
  • Post #37 - August 1st, 2012, 11:26 pm
    Post #37 - August 1st, 2012, 11:26 pm Post #37 - August 1st, 2012, 11:26 pm
    Excellent Quimet i Quimet report and I think I recognize some of the staff from my visits a few years ago.

    I hope you got to try their yogurt/smoked salmon/truffled honey montadito!

    Can't wait to see more, especially as you hit up pintxos heaven in Basque Country.
  • Post #38 - August 2nd, 2012, 11:05 am
    Post #38 - August 2nd, 2012, 11:05 am Post #38 - August 2nd, 2012, 11:05 am
    David Hammond wrote:Beautiful pix, as always, Ron.

    Potatoes drizzled with vinegary honey. Hmmm, I think I might have a shot at making that at home, and it sounds simply fantastic.

    Thanks. I'm guessing there was a bit more too it than what I gleaned or described but yeah, this is certainly a 'less is more' preparation that seems entirely do-able at home.

    kathryn wrote:Excellent Quimet i Quimet report and I think I recognize some of the staff from my visits a few years ago.

    I hope you got to try their yogurt/smoked salmon/truffled honey montadito!

    Can't wait to see more, especially as you hit up pintxos heaven in Basque Country.

    Thanks. I don't think we tried that one but there's always next time . . . and there will definitely be a next time.

    We spent 3 days in Barcelona, drove to San Sebastian and spent 3 days there (and surrounding areas), then drove back to Barcelona for 3 more days. So yes, some pintxos are definitely a'coming and I'll likely post about them on this awesome thread, started by the legendary tatterdemalion (aka my friend Nab :)). But next up (on this thread), will be a few more reports about some great eating experiences Barcelona.

    =R=
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #39 - August 2nd, 2012, 11:22 am
    Post #39 - August 2nd, 2012, 11:22 am Post #39 - August 2nd, 2012, 11:22 am
    Following this, salivating, Ron: my buddy Sonoma Howie and I are making plans to do the Barcelona + San Sebastian eating tour. Onward, and don't spare us anything!

    Geo
    Sooo, you like wine and are looking for something good to read? Maybe *this* will do the trick! :)
  • Post #40 - August 3rd, 2012, 12:04 am
    Post #40 - August 3rd, 2012, 12:04 am Post #40 - August 3rd, 2012, 12:04 am
    Geo, you're going to have an awesome time. I'm jealous.

    On our second day we headed over to the famed Boqueria Market on La Rambla, specifically to have lunch at Pinotxo Bar, which had been recommended to us by just about everyone we asked. On the way over, even our cab driver was touting it, before he knew that's where we were heading.

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    Boqueria Market - Rambla de Sant Josep, 91, Barcelona, Spain


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    This must be the place :)


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    Pinotxo Bar is located just inside the main entrance market, off La Rambla

    Our timing was really good and just as we strolled up, 3 stools at the counter opened up.

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    Owner, Juanito Bayen
    Here's the man who runs the show at Pinotxo. There's no real menu. Once we sat, we simply told Juanito that we wanted to start with some seafood.


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    Nice, crusty and light
    Before the plates started coming out, bread was served.


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    Razor Clams, lightly grilled with olive oil
    Our first taste was fantastic. The clams were tender and briney, and the olive oil was rich and peppery. Wondering what to have next, we simply studied what the other folks at the counter were eating and if it looked good, we asked for it. Using that approach, we fared extremely well.


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    Prawns
    Even better than they looked. Very gently cooked and dotted with some nice crystals of sea salt. All I left of mine were the tails . . . and I polished off the heads my wife and son didn't want. Their loss! :P


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    Baby Squid and Baby Lima Beans
    Like all the seafood we ate at Pinotxo, this squid was gently cooked and exceptionally tender. The flavorful beans were astonishingly good and also very tender.


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    Cockles
    Again, the most minimal of preparations in which the tender clams were truly showcased . . . and again, that phenomenal olive oil


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    Garbanzos and Botifarra (Catalan white sausage)
    I'm a garbanzo freak, so I just took a flier by ordering them. I hadn't seen anyone else with them but figured it was worth a shot that they were available in some form. When I did, I got an approving nod from Juanito and a few moments later this delectable dish was placed in front of us.


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    Lamb Chops
    We wanted to finish up with some meat. The sausage we'd seen some other folks order was 86'd, so we negotiated ourselves some extremely tender lamb chops.


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    Cheese Croquettes, Mushroom Croquettes
    A few of each; both varieties were crispy, creamy and delicious. We'd actually ordered these earlier in the meal but they showed up last. Our enthusiastic cab driver had made it clear that the flan was the thing to order at Pinotxo but we were too full for dessert, so we stopped after the croquettes.

    This meal was so different than our first meal at QyQ but every bit as enjoyable. It was cool, after having mostly canned ingredients the night before, to have a meal that was comprised of so much fresh seafood. I felt like we were starting out the trip right by touching such diverse bases at the outset.

    We'd jumped right out of the cab and into our stools at the counter, so after lunch we toured the market. The pics that follow were taken during that tour, as well as during a second stroll through on another day. The market is definitely a meaty one but there's a diverse variety of offerings, as well as other grills, bars, cafes, ice cream shops, etc. In all honesty, staying at a hotel without a kitchen, the market was a something of a delightful frustration. Most of the pictures are self-explanatory but I put in some comments where applicable . . .

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    Dried Mushrooms


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    Yum, mini sausages! :D


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    Bacalao Stall


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    Rabbits, large and small


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    Nuts and Dried Fruit


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    Foie, glorious foie


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    Cheeses, Oils, etc.


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    Manchego and Iberico


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    Spices


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    Egg Stall
    I absolutely love this concept. There were at least a couple of egg vendors in the market.


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    Parakeet?
    That's the translation from Catalan but these seem a little big for that.


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    Jamon Stall
    I really dug this stall, where many varieties of ham were available. Up front, 4 different ones were available for slicing to order. The minimum was 100g. We tried the Iberico de Bellota and the Serrano Gran Reserva, which were both excellent.


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    Slicing the Iberico de Bellota


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    Erotic Museum
    If your appetites lean to something beyond what's offered within the confines of the Boqueria, this museum is located just across the street from it. :D

    =R=

    Boqueria Market and Pinotxo Bar
    Rambla de Sant Josep, 91
    08002 Barcelona, Spain
    +34 933 17 17 31
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #41 - August 3rd, 2012, 8:57 am
    Post #41 - August 3rd, 2012, 8:57 am Post #41 - August 3rd, 2012, 8:57 am
    Damn Ronnie, you're making me want to skip right past Paris and head straight to Barcelona. This trip can't come soon enough.
  • Post #42 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:03 am
    Post #42 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:03 am Post #42 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:03 am
    These pictures bring to mind my favorite quote from Lost...

    We have to go back.
    -Josh

    I've started blogging about the Stuff I Eat
  • Post #43 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:13 am
    Post #43 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:13 am Post #43 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:13 am
    ronnie_suburban wrote:Image
    Egg Stall
    I absolutely love this concept. There were at least a couple of egg vendors in the market.


    All those different kinds of eggs! Reminded me of a store I passed in Hanoi:

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    At any US market, there will be a few kinds of rice: white rice, brown rice, etc. But here are a dozen different types of white rice, and I’m guessing there are many more out there that, for one reason or another, never make it to market.

    Ronnie, these photos are fabulous. I actually get a little dizzy looking at them; such a bounty of beautiful food.
    "Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins
  • Post #44 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:21 am
    Post #44 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:21 am Post #44 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:21 am
    A tradition upheld halfway around the globe, as well!

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    From a street market near Sipalou Lu in Shanghai this past January.

    I spotted chicken, duck, goose and quail, and given the variety of colors, sizes and shapes, I'd wager there were a few more. But yeah, it's incredible to see this kind of diversity in egg selection. And from a random, makeshift street market, no less. It's that specialization that we've lost. We get one big, broad, shallow pool rather than a collection of small, deep ones. Love the photos, Ronnie... a beautiful reminder of what market shopping can be like.
    Dominic Armato
    Dining Critic
    The Arizona Republic and azcentral.com
  • Post #45 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:30 am
    Post #45 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:30 am Post #45 - August 3rd, 2012, 9:30 am
    Ronnie I can't tell you how delighted I am to have the opportunity to have YOU to do my Barcelona reconnaisance!
    Frank and I will be there for 3 days later this fall!
    Totally enjoying your pix and post!
    "If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home."
    ~James Michener
  • Post #46 - August 3rd, 2012, 10:55 am
    Post #46 - August 3rd, 2012, 10:55 am Post #46 - August 3rd, 2012, 10:55 am
    Note to other Barcelona travelers:

    Bar Pinotxo in the Boqueria will also have doughnuts ("xuxo") each morning but we never got there early enough to grab some.

    I also loved this scrambled egg dish he made for me one day, with fresh seafood. Scrambled eggs with shrimp, clams, mushrooms, and zucchini.

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    The fresh fruit and juice selection is also phenomenal.

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  • Post #47 - August 3rd, 2012, 11:12 am
    Post #47 - August 3rd, 2012, 11:12 am Post #47 - August 3rd, 2012, 11:12 am
    Also... El Quim in the Boqueria is another must visit! If it's not closed that is... :)
  • Post #48 - August 3rd, 2012, 11:16 am
    Post #48 - August 3rd, 2012, 11:16 am Post #48 - August 3rd, 2012, 11:16 am
    kathryn wrote:Bar Pinotxo in the Boqueria will also have doughnuts ("xuxo") each morning but we never got there early enough to grab some.

    Given what a late-night city Barcelona is, I'm surprised anyone could make it over there that early. :lol:

    Those eggs look awesome. What a fun place Pinotxo Bar is. My son had a smoothie from one of the juice stalls in the Boqueria and he really enjoyed it.

    jfibro wrote:Damn Ronnie, you're making me want to skip right past Paris and head straight to Barcelona. This trip can't come soon enough.

    jesteinf wrote:We have to go back.

    I've been home less than a week and I cannot belive how much I miss Spain. :( I'm going to Paris in October (for work) and I'm almost sad about it because of how much I wish I were returning to Spain instead.

    =R=
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #49 - August 3rd, 2012, 6:49 pm
    Post #49 - August 3rd, 2012, 6:49 pm Post #49 - August 3rd, 2012, 6:49 pm
    kathryn wrote:Bar Pinotxo in the Boqueria will also have doughnuts ("xuxo") each morning but we never got there early enough to grab some.


    Here's a picture of the xuixo that I had from Pinotxo last summer. I would describe it is a deep fried, cream filled croissant coated with coarse sugar crystals. It was crispy, crunchy, and flaky on the outside yet smooth, rich, and creamy on the inside.

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  • Post #50 - August 3rd, 2012, 6:59 pm
    Post #50 - August 3rd, 2012, 6:59 pm Post #50 - August 3rd, 2012, 6:59 pm
    ronnie_suburban wrote:Image
    Clams
    Again, the most minimal of preparations in which the tender clams were truly showcased . . . and again, that phenomenal olive oil


    More specifically, those look like berberechos (cockles). I find that berberechos are a lot sweeter than your average clam and as such, I think they warrant distinction.
  • Post #51 - August 4th, 2012, 7:35 am
    Post #51 - August 4th, 2012, 7:35 am Post #51 - August 4th, 2012, 7:35 am
    Beng,

    You're right, they're cockles. Nicely enough in London last Fall I discovered I could buy them fresh at the corner Tesco. And they *are* sweeter than clams!

    Geo
    Sooo, you like wine and are looking for something good to read? Maybe *this* will do the trick! :)
  • Post #52 - August 4th, 2012, 9:33 am
    Post #52 - August 4th, 2012, 9:33 am Post #52 - August 4th, 2012, 9:33 am
    ronnie_suburban wrote:Image
    Baby Squid and Baby Lima Beans
    Like all the seafood we ate at Pinotxo, this squid was gently cooked and exceptionally tender. The flavorful beans were astonishingly good and also very tender.


    Another important distinction, since legumes are revered in Spain, is that I believe those beans are alubias rather than lima. The closest equivalent to the Spanish alubias I've found in the States are cannellini beans. Goya sells cannellini beans and labels them "cannellini/alubias," but I find the quality isn't as good as the legumes you'll find in Spain despite the fact that they're imported by Goya's Spanish branch.

    Most people rave about about the chickpea dish at Pinotxo, but for me the baby squid with white beans dish was the best dish by a wide margin.
  • Post #53 - August 4th, 2012, 9:50 am
    Post #53 - August 4th, 2012, 9:50 am Post #53 - August 4th, 2012, 9:50 am
    beng wrote:Another important distinction, since legumes are revered in Spain, is that I believe those beans are alubias rather than lima. The closest equivalent to the Spanish alubias I've found in the States are cannellini beans. Goya sells cannellini beans and labels them "cannellini/alubias," but I find the quality isn't as good as the legumes you'll find in Spain despite the fact that they're imported by Goya's Spanish branch.

    Most people rave about about the chickpea dish at Pinotxo, but for me the baby squid with white beans dish was the best dish by a wide margin.

    Thanks, for the clarifications, especially about the cockles. I should have known from those perfectly scalloped shells that they weren't clams.

    As far as the 2 legume dishes go, I'd call it a toss-up with more "research" needed before being able to choose a favorite. :D

    =R=
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #54 - August 4th, 2012, 3:22 pm
    Post #54 - August 4th, 2012, 3:22 pm Post #54 - August 4th, 2012, 3:22 pm
    beng wrote:
    kathryn wrote:Bar Pinotxo in the Boqueria will also have doughnuts ("xuxo") each morning but we never got there early enough to grab some.


    Here's a picture of the xuixo that I had from Pinotxo last summer. I would describe it is a deep fried, cream filled croissant coated with coarse sugar crystals. It was crispy, crunchy, and flaky on the outside yet smooth, rich, and creamy on the inside.


    Yes, they are lovely! I am sure I mangled the pronunciation, calling it something much closer to choochoo than I had intended, but he laughed, corrected me, and then gave me one.
    Leek

    SAVING ONE DOG may not change the world,
    but it CHANGES THE WORLD for that one dog.
    American Brittany Rescue always needs foster homes. Please think about helping that one dog. http://www.americanbrittanyrescue.org
  • Post #55 - August 5th, 2012, 3:41 pm
    Post #55 - August 5th, 2012, 3:41 pm Post #55 - August 5th, 2012, 3:41 pm
    Great stuff Ronnie - I have not traveled much in Spain, although I had several days in Madrid early spring this year. But I'm dying to get to Barcelona, San Sebastian, Portugal and more. Looking forward to reading more about your trip. Glad you guys had a great trip.
  • Post #56 - August 5th, 2012, 4:32 pm
    Post #56 - August 5th, 2012, 4:32 pm Post #56 - August 5th, 2012, 4:32 pm
    Next up was a Saturday dinner. As was posted upthread, weekends are not the prime time dining hours in many European cities that they are here (I learned this in Paris a few years ago). We struck out on our first couple of choices, which were actually closed on Saturday nights, but we had a solid list of vetted options from a knowledgeable friend. So, we decided to take a cab over to Fonda Gaig, which he recommended highly. We had no reservation and didn't know exactly what to expect, though we knew that proprietor Carles Gaig comes from a restaurant family and owns a couple of other places, one of which has a Michelin star (awarded in 1993). The restaurant's website describes Gaig's culinary philosophy as the "fusion of avante-garde and market cuisine," which is right up our alley. We opted for the Seasonal Tasting Menu (5 courses, 2 desserts for €60), figuring that was the best way to enjoy a representation of what the restaurant had to offer . . .

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    Fonda Gaig - Corsega, 200, Barcelona


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    Grilled Bread with olive oil and Herb Oil
    We really enjoyed this pesto-like dip, which had a freshly green flavor. We tried to ask what it was (in our broken Spanish and Catalan) but unfortunately, in spite of our best efforts (and Google translate), we were never really able to communicate clearly here.


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    Bread
    Very hearty, rustic loaf with a dense crust and moist, uneven crumb.


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    Recaredo
    Our wine of choice on this night. It matched up well with most of the dishes on the tasting menu.


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    Bunuelo and Croquetta
    I thought these were very successful renditions. We knew the bunuelo was bacalao but were never really able to know for sure what was in the croquetta, though I'm guessing it was chicken and ham, which seemed to be the default combination in most places we went.


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    Bunuelo of Bacalao
    Creamy and bursting with briney salt cod flavor.


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    Prawn Carpaccio with Guacamole
    I thought this was a really unusual dish but it was mostly successful. It seemed more Mexican than Spanish to me but I liked it. The prawns were delicious and impeccably fresh tasting. The guacamole was also well-prepared but it had a sweetness that I found somewhat discordant


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    Baby Squid with Artichoke Bottoms
    Great stuff here. The baby squid was ultra tender and the artichoke bottoms were a really nice touch.


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    Gatine Grandma Maria Cannelloni
    The expertly rendered sauce here was the highlight -- a supremely rich and aromatic truffled bechamel. The lighty crisped cannelloni was very tasty, as was its filling (again, meats unknown).


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    Grilled Monkfish with Olive Oil, Garlic and Seasonal Mushroom Sauce
    We really enjoyed this course. The monkfish was cooked perfectly and the seasonal mushroom sauce, which included cepes, was excellent.


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    Crispy Pork Belly with Strawberries
    I couldn't find this anywhere on the menu but I'm 99% sure it was pork belly, which had been compressed, slow-cooked and crisped up. The inset (top, right) is a small dish of vinegared strawberries that was served with it. In spite of how full we were, we each managed to finish our unctuous pieces of pork off without issue. This was a really full-flavored piece of pork that could not have been cooked any more beautifully.


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    Deconstructed Crema Catalana
    I wasn't a huge fan of this dessert, though I loved the pastries served with it (inset, bottom right). There was lot going on here and it just didn't work for me. As the picture shows, the dessert was layered and some of the flavors of the individual layers were too tart and herbaceous for my palate.


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    Chocolate Coulant with Vanilla Ice Cream
    I was surprised to see such a ubiquitous dessert show up but I have to say the execution was so perfect, it mattered not that I've had dozens of renditions of it over the years. Eating the dish was a pleasure. For me, the chocolate component straddled that perfect line between sweet and bitter. The vanilla ice cream was ultra-rich and had a profoundly floral vanilla note.


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    Chocolate Coulant
    It was certainly molten but the chocolate oozed out of the cake ever so slowly.

    Though impeded a bit by the language barrier, service was friendly and helpful. The space itself is very brightly lit but comfortable, with large tables set far from each other and leather-upholstered seating. Even sitting in the space with other diners and food being served, it really didn't feel like a restaurant. It felt more like a gallery space. The silence was also unusual. There was no music and it wasn't quite busy enough for the room to produce its own ambient noise. So, it was quiet in a way that I cannot remember ever experiencing at a restaurant before. It wasn't unpleasant but it did make a lasting impression.

    In retrospect, I wish we had just ordered a la carte from the menu instead of going for the Tasting Menu. While most everything we had was delicious -- and all of it prepared with extreme skill and care -- there were some very interesting items we would have loved to have tried (e.g. xato, battered brains, tripe with chickpeas, roasted rabbit with seasonal mushrooms, etc.), many of which seemed more in our wheelhouse than what we were served. Still, I'm really glad we had this meal because it represented a culinary asethetic in which I'm very interested. I'd go back in a heartbeat but I'd plan to arrive very hungry and work my way through as much of the menu as I and my companions could.

    =R=

    Fonda Gaig
    Corsega, 200
    08036 Barcelona, Spain
    934 532 020
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #57 - August 5th, 2012, 6:31 pm
    Post #57 - August 5th, 2012, 6:31 pm Post #57 - August 5th, 2012, 6:31 pm
    I believe what you had for the pork dish was:

    Roasted crispy boned suckling pig with strawberry and onion salad 23.44 €

    Where "boned" really means "de-boned," I suppose.
  • Post #58 - August 5th, 2012, 6:57 pm
    Post #58 - August 5th, 2012, 6:57 pm Post #58 - August 5th, 2012, 6:57 pm
    kathryn wrote:I believe what you had for the pork dish was:

    Roasted crispy boned suckling pig with strawberry and onion salad 23.44 €

    Where "boned" really means "de-boned," I suppose.

    LOL, I believe you're correct. Thanks. I looked right past that on the menu shot I have. Fwiw, on that shot, the dish is listed at €21.70. :D In any event, the pieces we were served had belly-like layering, but I suppose that could just be a function of the cooking technique.

    =R=
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
  • Post #59 - August 5th, 2012, 7:40 pm
    Post #59 - August 5th, 2012, 7:40 pm Post #59 - August 5th, 2012, 7:40 pm
    Ronnie,
    I'm not surprised you liked that chocolate dessert. Nowhere have I had better dark chocolate than in Barcelona. Other European countries tout their milk chocolate, but go to Spain for the dark
    What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
    -- Lin Yutang
  • Post #60 - August 5th, 2012, 11:40 pm
    Post #60 - August 5th, 2012, 11:40 pm Post #60 - August 5th, 2012, 11:40 pm
    JoelF wrote:I'm not surprised you liked that chocolate dessert. Nowhere have I had better dark chocolate than in Barcelona. Other European countries tout their milk chocolate, but go to Spain for the dark

    I really liked the chocolate we had in Barcelona but I remember having some pretty awesome dark chocolate in France, too. :wink: I'm not really a big fan of milk chocolate. I used to be but genereally speaking, I find it too sweet and too weak these days. My preference is for about 55% cocoa solids, depending on the specifics.

    <> = <> = <>

    You may notice that I'm about to skip from Saturday dinner to Sunday dinner. That's because we took a misstep by eating lunch at our hotel on Sunday. We did it in the interest of saving some time on a day when we wanted to get a lot of sightseeing in. The food wasn't bad but it was bland and expensive, and ironically, the lunch took a crazy-long time. Oh well, such is life.

    As tough as Saturday tables are in Barcelona, Sundays are even tougher. A lot of places are closed and only one of the places recommended to us -- Paco Meralgo -- was open on Sunday night. We did take it as a good sign that it was recommended by several people we trust, including a few LTHers (some on this thread) and a couple of chefs who've spent some time in Barcelona. We tried to get a reservation but none were available, so we ended our sightseeing early and made sure that were in front of Paco Meralgo by 19:45 (15 minutes before they open for dinner service). We felt kind of stupid being the only people in front of the place but when we called, we were told that only the counter (which is probably about 10-12 seats) was available for walk-ins. With a long drive to San Sebastian coming up early the next morning, we wanted to eat dinner as early as possible. At 20:00 we were seated at the counter and it made us feel better that within the next 20 minutes, the counter was entirely full . . .

    Image
    Paco Meralgo - Calle Muntaner, 171, Barcelona

    We took a look at the menu but decided to just ask our server to order for us. We let her know that we wanted to start with seafood -- maybe 4-5 courses -- and then after that, we'd decide if we wanted more food. She politely warned us that because things tend to be served in a rapid-fire manner, they preferred to have the entire order up front. We agreed but made sure that if we wanted more after that, it'd be ok to order more. She told us that would be fine. And so we began . . .

    Image
    Juve Y Camps Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia Cava 2008
    Not knowing exactly what we were going to eat, we decided on this very nice sparkler, which seemed like a decent 'universal' choice.


    Image
    Tuna
    I'm certainly used to seeing this in tartare form -- something we saw no shortage of on this trip -- but I can't remember ever being served a big, raw steak of tuna. In any case, it was delicious and, save for one streak of sinew, very tender.


    Image
    Bread Crisps
    These were served with the tuna.


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    Pa Amb Tomaquet
    The ubiquitous tomato bread. We had this at several places but this was one of the best renditions, as the bread itself was crusty and flavorful, and we could really taste the ripe tomatoes.


    Image
    Grilled Razor Clams
    Simple and awesome.


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    "Paco Meralgo" Salad
    This is one item we asked for. All of us just felt like splitting a salad and this one was nicely composed. It contained a gorgeous hard boiled egg and some righteous tuna.


    Image
    Oysters
    I don't know the provenance of these oysters but they were outstanding. I normally don't even order oysters this time of year, so I was a wee bit concerned when they arrived in front us but they were meaty, briney and awesome. We ended up having oysters a few more times during the trip and they never disappointed.


    Image
    Baked Scallop
    I thought this preparation was fantastic. Even though the ingredients are pretty different, it was vaguely reminiscent of de jonghe. I had one of these but I could have easily had 6. :D


    Image
    Baked Scallop
    Not only was the "business" delicious but the scallop was sweet, tender and cooked perfectly.


    Image
    Langoustines
    Luckily this was a substantial serving, otherwise my son and I might have come to blows over these. :D I ate the bodies, I ate the heads, I sucked every bit of meat from the claws. The space around me was completely wrecked with debris. To me, it really doesn't get any better than this.

    At this point we would have been done had we not spoken up. We were still hungry and had also seen some nice-looking items going out to other diners. We flagged our server down. I sensed that she may have been a little irritated that we wanted to append the script. Still, she relented and politely wrote down the additional items we wanted to try. Perhaps we simply bemused her. After a very short wait, Round 2 hit the counter in front of us even more rapidly than Round 1 had . . .

    Image
    Gazpacho
    Having had this dozens of times in places other than Spain, I felt compelled to try it here. I really liked it and I'm happy to say that it was no better than the better versions I've had elsewhere, including here in Chicago.


    Image
    Patatas Bravas
    These were great and unlike the gazpacho, were unlike any version I'd ever had before. The crispy and tender potatoes were covered in an aioli and a spicy pimenton oil, which was really spicy.


    Image
    Padron Peppers
    Ok, so we're checking some archetypal Spanish items off the list all at once. These were great, with an aggressive blistering, which added a nice textural element and complexity of flavor. On this plate, just a couple had any significant heat. Even my wife, who isn't normally a pepper fan, ate several of these.


    Image
    Croquettes with Chicken and Ham
    My boy wanted to try them, so we ordered one for each of us. I thought they were tasty but as good as they were, I began to realize I didn't really need any more croquettes on this trip. :wink:


    Image
    Iberian Sausage Assortment
    Not really all sausages but that's how the combination is listed on the menu. Clockwise from bottom, Lomo, Chorizo and (unknown) Salsiccia. These were totally spectacular. We ate them plain and with the pa amb tomaquet, which was a great combination. They're not made at the restaurant. I don't know where they're made but I would definitely seek them out on my next visit. It was great seeing that pimenton infused fat in the chorizo melt into liquid while sitting at room temperature.

    We were pretty darned full but we weren't leaving without dessert. We went for the obvious choice . . .

    Image
    Crema Catalan
    This was executed so well. The burnt sugar was thick and almost glass-like. The custard itself was still ice cold. The flavors were great. This was really a treat, to have a dish like this -- one I've had so many times -- be executed in such a distinctive way. I felt like I was having it for the first time.


    Image
    Carquinyolis
    The house brought these out for us at the end of our meal. They're essentially a Catalan take on biscotti but, at least in this case, more dense and seemingly made with less flour. These were quite nice.

    So, Sunday dinner went from a being source of moderate stress to a genuine highlight. I was really happy to have eaten here and I wouldn't hesitate to return on any night they happened to be open -- not just on a Sunday. The freshness of the seafood and extremely competent, minimal preparations really allowed the dishes to shine. But everything we ate here was delicious: the cooked dishes, the cured meats and the desserts, too.

    =R=

    Paco Meralgo
    Calle Muntaner, 171
    08036 Barcelona, Spain
    934 30 90 27
    By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada

    Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS

    There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM

    That don't impress me much --Shania Twain

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