Bonsoiree 2.0

As many have heard Chef Shin Thompson recently has instituted major changes at Bonsoiree. He is no longer in house, but is working on a new project in the West Loop. Former Top Chef contestant Beverly Kim (and her husband Johnny Clark) are now running the kitchen and have completely redone the menu. Bonsoiree has also undergone a makeover and now has a nice, chic and artsy apperance. Free BYOB is no longer an option (though one may bring a bottle of wine for $35 corkage); Matty Colston is now running the wine program and there are pairings available as well as wines by the glass, bottles of wine, craft beers and cocktails. There is also now an outdoor area dubbed a Zen Fire Garden for after dinner drinks and snacks around a bonfire (and a section of the dining room has a retractable roof, so weather permitting one can dine semi al fresco). Bonsoiree has joined Alinea, Next (and most recently Elizabeth) with the "ticket" system of procuring reservations. One can "purchase" a twelve-course meal for $115 or a six-course meal for $85 (20% gratuity and taxes are then automatically added when you buy the tickets - so the only thing you pay for the night you dine is beverages - and recently they added an option to prepurchase the wine pairings as well). I strongly recommend the twelve-courses (much better value and it is well worth the extra $30).

I dined at the new Bonsoiree last night with a friend and we both really enjoyed the experience. We enjoyed the twelve-course meal with pairings (the parings run $70, but for $55 you can do smaller pours - we went that route). There also were three extra "gift" courses and mignardises served with green tea at the end. The food is Korean with a blend of classic and modern techniques. The ingredients are fresh and much of it locally sourced or foraged. I loved the new appearance of Bonsoiree, but the only negative was (even though only half the tables were taken) it was rather loud. I think they need to do something to absorb some of the sound as this did detract a bit from setting a fine dining ambiance (and at times I struggled to hear our server's description of the courses). The servers were very attentive and knowledgeable, but friendly and laid back rather than formal or stuffy. The courses had beautiful artistic presentations (both the food itself as well as the pieces they were served on - each dish was served on a custom piece of pottery). The menu has a heavy seafood emphasis. Out of the twelve courses I loved three of them and only disliked one; most of the rest were good with a couple being fair. My three favorites were the "bone soup" which had the most delicious piece of smoked, dehydrated brisket that then rehydrates in the soup; the Swan Creek Farm duck course with duck two ways - both absolutely amazing and the final dessert course featuring pat bing su, sorrel granite, sweet read bean and oxails (this is one of the two or three best desserts I have ever had)! The only course I did not care for was the beet and cashew cheese course; I found the beet to be too vinegary and the cashew cheese just did not taste good to me (it was the only item I did not fully consume). I was really impressed with the complexity of the combinations of the ingredients across the courses; each course was such a unique and interesteig blend of different flavors and textures and most of the time they really gelled harmoniously. Portions sizes were fairly generous and I definitely left full and satisfied, but not uncomfortable. Chef Beverly has done an incredible job with her first menu at Bonsoiree 2.0!

Matty Colston did a great job with the pairings. There was an emphasis on white wines (due to all the seafood on the menu), but there was a great red wine poured with the duck course and a German beer with one course. You are receive some bubbly at the start of the meal. My friend and I found the $55 smaller pour option adequate - they were about two ounce pours I'd estimate and occasionally they topped us off. The wines were from small boutique venues. Chef Beverly was very visible and spend significant time chatting with patrons at all the tables; I was really impressed with this and love venues where the chefs do this (it reminded me of Goosefoot where Chef Nugent most nights does the same). Our meal lasted approximately 3 hours and 15 minutes (to be expected since we ended up with about 16 total dishes including all the extras); the time went quick as there were not any long gaps between courses and the staff was so friendly (you have one primary waiter, but everyone pitches in).

I was impressed with Bonsoiree 2.0. I do think that Chef Shin should consider changing the name as this is a completely different restaurant under Chef Beverly than it was when Chef Shin was running the kitchen. I can understand him wanting to keep the name as it has a great reputation (and a Michelin star) and is a cool name, but this is truly a new restaurant now. It will be interesting to see how Michelin handles Bonsoiree 2.0 in November. I feel that the meal, service and ambiance is deserving of a star, but since the major changes are so new it is possible Michelin revokes the star until they can evaluate Bonsoriee 2.0 over a longer period of time. If they do lose their star, if last night's meal is any indication I would be shocked if they do not earn it back in 2013! The new Bonsoiree is definitely worth checking out if you appreciate this style of cuisine.

Well, this didn't take very long to tank.

http://chicago.eater.com/archives/2012/10/03/is-this-the-end-of-bonsoiree.php

Wow, I am surprised; my friend and I really enjoyed our meal there. Too bad it did not work out.