I finally made my first visit to Senza and my overall impression was very favorable. I'd return and I'd recommend it but not unconditionally.
I appreciated the mostly non-gimmicky approach to the gluten-free mission. 3 of our 9 courses -- Bread (slightly bitter finish and greatly in need the salted butter with which it was served), Agnolotti and Chocolate Cake were the only ones that attempted a gluten-free approach to dishes that would typically contain gluten. And they were mostly successful. I thought the bread was a real feat. It wasn't perfect but it was much better than I would have expected it to be. The rest of the meal was comprised of a wide, unrestricted range of ingredients that do not contain gluten.
Dishes were innovative, distinctive and well executed. Combinations of flavors/ingredients were out of the box in some cases but always worked notably well. I thought the plates were uniformly beautiful, too -- artistically conceived and composed. Ingredients/components were cooked skillfully from beginning to end.
An opening course of
Scallop with foie gras, blueberry, granola and oxtail was simply outstanding. I'm not normally a fan of sweet and savory together but it's a natural with foie and the combination of these flavors worked exceedingly well together (a theme that recurred throughout our meal). The blueberry may have actually been bilberry because it was so wonderfully aromatic.
Parsnip Soup (lobster, guanciale, cherry, horseradish) also succeeded, though it was a bit too salty for me (more on this below). The combination of lobster and horseradish was tremendous.
Loup De Mer was cooked perfectly and accompanied very nicely by artichoke, lime, marjoram and paprika (I think there was also a piece of pork rind in there).
Pork Belly was another winner. It was tender-sticky and accompanied by lingonberry, coriander, celeriac and Szechuan peppercorn. I loved the way the flavors were incorporated into the dish via savory meringue dollops, flawless sauces and powders. This was probably my favorite dish.
Agnolotti was also delicious and I loved the earthy combination of morel and truffle that amplified is deep savoriness. These were some tasty and innovative plates.
Unfortunately, more than a couple dishes had too much salt. In some cases, I couldn't tell if this was because of a rock/flake salt finish that hit my palate in the wrong spot or just too much salt within the dish. The worst instance was the
Lamb Belly (part of a lamb course that included buttermilk, cippolini, lemon and nasturtium), which was just way too salty; salty through the chew and also nearly encrusted in salt, which was too much. What I appreciated though, was that in at least a few cases, eating various components of the entire dish in one bite mitigated this. This made me feel that the overall salt issue was mostly one of compositional strategy.
The meal concluded with a very stylized take on
Raclette (membrillo, raisin, pancetta, basil) that I didn't really care for and a couple of desserts.
Oatmeal (pine nut, apricot, sherry, tangerine) was stellar -- just the kind of dessert I love.
Chocolate (butterscotch, raspberry, rosemary, pumpkin seed), a small, rich and fudgey cake, was a very nice finale.
Pairings were a mixed bag. I thought that overall, they improved as the meal progressed but it was not a straight line. For me, a couple of the early pairings lacked acidity that would have foiled the richness of the dishes well. However, a vermouth cocktail served with the Loup De Mer course that contained artichoke, worked very well. Of the 9 pairings, I'd say 3 enhanced the dishes with which they were served, 3 got in the way and 3 were neutral. Cocktails we had before the meal were solid. A basque cider that we added up front -- Isastegi -- was excellent.
Service was, at times, a bit uncomfortable for me. Our team definitely knew their stuff and were as competent, responsive and receptive as they could be. It was clear they were quite proud of Senza and very enthusiastic about being a part of this team. But at times it just felt a little stiff, overly formal and scripted. There were also some warm moments, though.
I think the value is there, at least for the non-paired, 9-course, which is $125 per person before tax and tip. At $200 with the pairings, I felt the value slipped away just a bit. I think it's a fair price for the quality and volume of beverages served but as I mentioned above, for me they didn't consistently enhance the dishes. Next time -- and there will definitely be a next time -- I'll likely stick to sparkling wine and cider to pair up with the tasting menu.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain