Last night was my first visit to Arami so unfortunately I cannot assess how it has changed, if at all. What I will say is that I enjoyed my meal, though after trying a diverse sampling of the menu, for the most part there was little that will make me run back (the beautiful prawn was a major exception though).
Let me first say that it was nice to have miso soup that actually tasted like miso - an impressive bowl. We moved on to a tsukemono tasting (the pickles), which we really enjoyed. My favorite was probably the burdock root with sesame seed, although the quail egg with its combination of sweet, sour and savory finished a very close second. on the other hand, the beech mushroom with katsuobushi was fine but no particularly interesting flavors. But overall, the impressive pickle selection, a rare find in Chicago, might be a very good reason to seek Arami out.
We also shared a number of raw fish items, which for the most part let me down just a little. We tried both special nigiri on the menu. The spicy scallop wrapped with salmon really had no noticeable spice component and was a tad under-seasoned, although I found both the scallop and salmon to be of fine quality. King crab wrapped with marinated tuna fared slightly better, although again slightly under-seasoned. On the other hand, I thought that the sake garlic salmon sashimi was terrific - great flavors, but still allowing the flavor of the salmon itself to shine through. My dining companion ordered one of the tuna maki (can't recall which one) which was actually pretty good - gently sauced, good portion of tuna, and crispy wonton rolled within added a nice and unexpected crunch.
What really disappointed us though were the nigiri we ordered, which were rather poorly put together and under-seasoned. The fish simply came right off the rice, and the rice did not stand any chance of being held together. The fish itself was fine, and might have fared far better as sashimi.
We weren't leaving without also having tried some of the robata items. The maitake mushrooms with black garlic and umeboshi were flavorful, but showed little effects of the robata grill. I actually enjoyed the warm mushroom salad (non-robata) we also ordered as a starter, which showed off lightly cooked mushrooms with a touch of meyer lemon and sesame. Slightly less impressive was the gyu, beef strip with uni butter. The beef was fine, although again showing little effect from the robata grill. And if there was uni in the butter, it was doing its best to hide.
If you've gotten this far, you'll see that we enjoyed some items, and not some others. But the ebi yaki, the robata-grilled prawn with saikyo miso butter, was the gem of the night, and I could really go on for a long time talking about my love of this dish. A whole Santa Barbara prawn, beautifully grilled with a light char, grilled just long enough to ensure the perfect texture. And when you finished eating the delicious prawn meat itself, you were left sucking out the juices and digging for every last morsel of flavor you could find inside the shell (and there was plenty). I probably could have made an entire (very expensive) meal of just these prawns - maybe the best taste I've had in months. But other than the prawn, I found the robata items paled compared to what you might find at a star such as Raku in Vegas.
For dessert, we had the Black Dog sesame and fig gelato with charred mochi pieces and sesame brittle. Here, I'd say that Arami fulfilled their part of the bargain with the mochi and delicious brittle. But had I been blindfolded, I would have detected neither sesame nor fig in the very smooth but bland gelato - another Black Dog disappointment.
Service can be addressed in a few respects. Our waitress was outstanding, attentive and showed great knowledge of the menu. At the same time, pacing was slow. Also, we were seated in the back room, and I would have much preferred to be in the main dining room. Temperatures fluctuated in the room too much on this moderately chilly evening (there are multiple heaters in the room), kitchen staff frequently visited a cold storage area just behind the room, and you do feel slightly detached from the restaurant.
So while I enjoyed my dinner, the only items that would cause me to go out of my way to visit Arami were the wonderful prawn and the tsukemono. Other items, while mostly fine, did not excite me enough to return.