I stopped by the newly reopened
Depot American Diner, this afternoon, to check it out. Cutting to the chase: it seems at least 90% the same as its prior incarnation with some promising augmentations--and for me that's a relief.
There is new ownership. I spoke briefly with one of the owners, Neal Cosmos, who told me he has about 30 years' experience in the restaurant business, including parents who used to run the
Cosmos restaurant in Oak Park on Madison St. (at the site where
New Rebozo is now.)
Neal said he was an old
Depot customer, expressing his appreciation of the "home made" qualities of the Depot, and seems well-oriented toward keeping things that way. Some notable additions to the old menu are (1) milkshakes made with actual fruit for flavoring, and (2) a selection of waffles from an old style waffle iron, along with expanded pancake/omelette choices. Neal also declared his opposition to having a microwave oven on the premises to preclude the evil of microwave-reheated food, though he may yet be prevailed-upon to get one solely for warming desserts like the excellent turtle-style bread pudding I had there today--laced with chocolate, pecans, and a caramel topping--a creation of Taiwan, one of the two cooks retained from the "old" Depot.
I understand that on the morning shift, Miguel is still there too, and I'm looking forward to again having the sheer pleasure of a front-row seat at the counter where I can watch this short-order master cook riff his savory melodies on the cooking surface with the speed and precision of a flamenco guitarist. To my mind, a visible cook is a fundamental quality of this classic-style diner--integral to an authentic experience.
The other front-of-house staff I met (Erica and Tanya) are friendly and attentive; the Costa Rican coffee is good; the Mexican Coke and Sprite with cane sugar are still there; the turkey is still recognizable as real roasted turkey; the donuts are still made-to-order; the Blue Plate Specials remain, as does the pot roast sandwich, and I'm told the weekend menu will continue to have biscuits & gravy, as well. Good portents.
As for infrastructure changes, the paint and the booths have been spiffed-up a bit, there's a new sign outside, and I'm told the exhaust and air conditioning systems have been attended-to (a prior issue with the old Depot.) But most customers likely won't notice those details, and perhaps that's as it should be.
Some of us may wonder if this new cycle of the Depot will prove to be merely a coattail-riding attempt to exploit the DD&D-boosted notoriety of the original one. I'm certainly willing to give Neal & company a chance to demonstrate that they can keep both business
and quality afloat...we'll just have to get around to re-experiencing *all* the celebrated old menu items along with the new ones and report back here (--a laborious task, I know, but with some LTH teamwork, I'm confident that we're collectively up to the challenge....

)
At this point, things appear promising for a re-instantiation of The Depot experience as originally crafted by Robert & Annemarie Nava. As for me, I'm of the opinion that our world is better off with the Depot alive and operating today--even if it eventually comes to achieve the best of the original only moderately well--rather than having nothing more than a fond memory of how good a now-defunct diner icon once was. So as I suggested above, I'm happy that it's back.
The Depot American Diner
5840 W. Roosevelt Rd.
Chicago, IL 60644
773-287-8422
--Matt
(Edited to add new phone number and adjust spelling, e.g., of names.)
Last edited by
mhl on November 18th, 2012, 12:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"If I have dined better than other men, it is because I stood on the shoulders of giants...and got the waiter's attention." --Sir Isaac "Ready to order NOW" Newton
"You worry too much. Eat some bacon... What? No, I got no idea if it'll make you feel better, I just made too much bacon." --Justin Halpern's dad