Central Kitchen and Tap recently opened in the space at the northwest corner of Lawrence and Central formerly occupied by the Super Cup coffee shop. CK&T is doing something very different from the ordinary corner coffee shop, though, and more like the not-ordinary-comfort-food-made-from-scratch-and-oh-yeah-we-sell-booze kind of place.
I'm starting the thread based on eating one whole sandwich, but I spent a lot of time while I was there peering at the food that other eaters picked up, and even sat near the kitchen to watch & listen to the kitchen staff. So I need to pick someplace to start . . . Menu! CK&T is planning to serve lunch and dinner, [although at the moment they don't open until 5 pm while they're still in a shakedown process]. Menu has appetizers [hummus, a 'daily dip', fried or grilled shrimp, wings and 'Pork Sticks - braised mini shanks coated in bbq' - I'm still trying to figure out what a 'mini pork shank' is 'sposed to look like], soups, salads [both side & meal sized], sandwiches, dinner entrees, and a large passel of sides. Soups aren't well defined . . . soup of the day and the other soup of the day. The salads can have chicken or shrimp added to them, and are the usual dinner salad, 'kitchen sink' [aka garbage] salad and caesar. Sandwiches include burgers, a portobello 'burger', chicken, fish, shrimip salad, blt & club, cheesesteak, hot dog, brat, pot roast [looking forward to seeing how it compares to The Depot's] and "Italian Roasted Pork" which the kitchen workers kept referring to as "porchetta". Dinners include ribs, roast chicken, hanger steak, pork chops, and pasta configured a number of ways. There is a very nice collection of side dishes . . . they come with the dinner or a sandwich at 2 for $3.50. Sides include house-made chips, grilled asparagus, grilled corn, potato salad, onion rings, roasted potatoes, spanish rice, spinach & some other stuff I forget. There are also kids' meals, and they include a soft-serve ice cream cone for desert.
I think the idea here is not so much bar with food, but well-made food in a place that also serves booze. There are 3 beers on tap [2 macrobrews and Stiegl] and about 8-10 bottles, a mix of micro, import & macro, including the inexplicable and unavoidable PBR cans. I had a Great Lakes' Elliot Ness Amber with my dinner. There are 10 different varieties of wine, listed by variety rather than label or vintner. I also saw liquor, although the drinkers mostly had beer.
They seem to want to be kid friendly; there were several families with kids while I was there, and while it added to the noise level a bit, the kids appeared to be enjoying their dinners as well as their parents were.
The decor has changed very little from the Super Cup days; it mostly looks like they gave the place a really, really good scrubbing & a fresh coat of paint. Booths & tables are the same as before. Lighting fixtures are updated to an atrractive modernist/minimalst style.
From what I could see, portion sizes were quite large, even the sides. Many folks walked out with leftovers; I was very happy to see they use biodegradable take-out containers made of sugar cane waste . Prices are VERY reasonable - sandwiches in the $5-7 range, entrees range from $5 for half a chicken to $13 for a full slab of ribs. Sides, as I said before, are 2 for $3.50 for extremely generous portions.
All this description . . . how was the food?!? Good. Very good. I had the Italian Roast Pork sandwich, which was served on one of those square ciabatta rolls with garlic, oil & spinach. The pork itself was a rolled piece of . . . loin? My pig anatomy knowledge is failing me here. It was rolled pork flesh and fat - rather fatty for my tastes, but I think would be quite to the liking of some of youse. It was rolled with spices; fennel, garlic & black pepper for sure, not sure what else. It had been roasted and then browned on a griddle before serving. It was a very tasty sandwich. I had roasted ear of corn for one side. It had been cooked earlier, then browned a bit on the grill and dipped in some buttery stuff. I don't think it was pure butter. The corn was mediocre, frankly, but then I was hoping for something like the roast corn at the Wisconsin state fair, and it fell way short of that. My other side was the potato salad. GOOD, apparently house-made potato salad. Small white skin-on potatoes in a dressing that had mayo, sour cream, grainy mustard, celery, onion & probably other stuff. I really enjoyed it. When I ordered it, I was asked if I wanted bacon on top. Well, why wouldn't I want bacon? Truth be told, though, the salad didn't need it and the bacon may have disrupted the other creamy goodness going on. Live and learn. There was so much potato salad that I ended up taking some home. The pork sandwich was very rich, and I could barely finish it. Not because it was huge, but the fat made it very filling.
Presently, the place is organized as self-serve. You order your food & drinks from the host behind the counter [the very outgoing James - who looks more than a little like Ted Brunson from Chicago's Best to me], then go to a table and wait for your name to be called. I got there at JUST the wrong time . . . there were 3-4 families ordering in front of me when I arrived, and I had finished off my beer and could easily have downed another one by the time my food was up. The kitchen, from what my non-professional eyes could see, functioned pretty efficiently, but all of the food is prepared to order, and fresh, and that does take time [for example, I saw a sauteed spinach side being prepared from actual fresh spinach]. Maybe my bet bet is to avoid 7 pm dining there. Or get take-out from them. The place has been open maybe a week and a half, and they seem to be functioning and cooking well already. It was half full while I was there. It seems that the neighborhood was hungry, um, eager, for a place like this. It has the potential to become a neighborhood gem. I hope it reaches that potential.
Central Kitchen and Tap
4800 N Central Ave
(between Lawrence Ave & Gunnison St)
Chicago, IL 60630
(773) 853-0150
[there's a web address on the awning, but no actual web site yet]
Giovanna
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"Enjoy every sandwich."
-Warren Zevon