Nando Milano Trattoria

My wife and I dined at this relatively new Northern Italian restaurant last night for the second time, and we had a very enjoyable meal. Located in Wicker Park, Nando Milano Trattoria occupies a relatively small space with a rustic brick and wood decor. The place can get very loud, so be forewarned. However, the atmosphere is authentically Italian and the owner Dario and his staff make every effort to make their guests feel welcome.

We started with two salads - I had the Delizia Tricolore (usually this is made with arugula, endive and radiccio, but the restaurant was out of arugula so they used baby spinach instead), and my wife had their version of a Caesar salad. Both were very good - my wife loves salads and she really enjoyed hers.

Next, I had the Costine di Agnello - lamb chops prepared two ways (roasted and Milanese-style) with spinach and roasted "rustic" potatoes on the side. This dish worked for me. The two lamb preparations contrasted nicely with two crunchy Milanese-style chops complimenting the rich roast double chops. The spinach was also notable for its freshness - it reminded me of the superb spinach that we enjoyed years ago at Etoile in Madison back when Odessa Piper owned the place.

My wife ordered the Nondino di Gallina, which was their take on chicken roulade. They obviously started with first-rate product and the chicken was very moist and filled with a nice spinach filling.

We shared that old standby tiramisu for dessert. Nando Trattoria Milanese's version is surprisingly light and avoids the sogginess you sometimes encounter at other restaurants (which is why I usually avoid this dessert).

All in all, this is a warm, friendly "boite" with well-crafted food. It's a solid addition to our Wicker Park neighborhood.

Nando Milano Trattoria
2114 West Division Street
Chicago, Illinois
(773) 486-2636

There seems to be an awful lot of spinach on that menu...not that there's anything wrong with that.