Letter from Morelia

We have now been in Morelia, Michoacan in Mexico for more than three months. We have a terrific apartment up in the hills which is a little reminiscent of Los Angeles, we have a view overlooking the whole city, with the historic zona centro maybe four miles away. It's been great for the most part, the one thing I miss is the variety of cuisines in Chicago. That said, the Mexican food here is really unbelievable. Fantastic. Even on the simplest level most everything is fresh, not processed, delicious and healthy at the same time. We drove from Chicago, stopping in Arkansas and Texas, and had really awful choices along the way. As soon as we got over the border (Saltillo, San Luis Potosi, Queretaro, Morelia) we had fresh local food prepared with care and art. And not expensive.

Tonight I will concentrate on one restaurant in Morelia, Lu, in the Hotel Casino, Portales 229 downtown. The portales are the arched sidewalk cafes surrounding the zocalo downtown, as in most Mexican cities. We have been there now three times, enough to support a review. In short, fantastic, contemporary Mexican at least at the level of Frontera. In fact Rick Bayless is quoted on the menu as loving their enchiladas de jicama. If I see him again I'll ask him, but if someone else could follow up I'd love to hear about it. (I was suspicious about cooking jicama but one of my sisters in law says she cooks jicama with pork chops and it's great, so I reserve judgment).The chef (whose name is Luciano or some such, shortened to Lu for the name of the restaurant) specializes in local traditional recipes with a modern twist. The sopa Tarasca is the best tortilla soup I've ever had, and I am including Bayless and all his followers. I've had the arachera, which is sublime, a flank steak cooked to fork tender perfection with enchiladas and beans and rice. Chicken with a peanut sauce was superb, and various appetizers (guacamole, queso con chorizo, salads of different ingredients) were out of this world. Bread service included a tamale de harina, a flour tamale used like bread to soak up various salsas. It's expensive for Mexico but not for Americans (the total for four people last Sunday was about fifty dollars) and is way worth it.

We have had many other great experiences with food, both high and low, and I will be following up in this subject. Morelia does not have a big American expat presence, I have seen estimates in the 100 to 125 person range. I have not met any other Americans yet here, even though I am going to start teaching trumpet and jazz at the local conservatory (the Conservatorio de las Rosas, the oldest music school in the western hemisphere, founded in 1743) next Wednesday, the 16th. We're here for the long haul (Mrs. Trpt is Mexican, and her family lives here for the most part) so I will be updating periodically here. I can't tell you how fabulous life is here, starting with the weather. Better than San diego. Every day is perfect and every day is exactly like the previous day.

Thanks for the terrific report, trpt. I would love to get to Morelia some day -- so please keep reporting on the good spots there, and especially the local specialties. (Any chance of photos? )

That perfect weather day after day is going to sound good to Chicagoans as we head into winter...

Thank you for your post, I'm looking forward to more.

Amata wrote:Thanks for the terrific report, trpt. I would love to get to Morelia some day -- so please keep reporting on the good spots there, and especially the local specialties. (Any chance of photos? )

That perfect weather day after day is going to sound good to Chicagoans as we head into winter...

It gets down into the upper forties at night, so when I take the dogs out early it's a little chilly. And there's no heat in the houses here, nor air conditioning. But by 11 or so the sun takes the edge off and by noon or one it's terrific. And it never snows, or even freezes. We're at about 19 degrees north latitude, well south of the tropic of cancer. The length of days only varies by about an hour and 45 minutes between winter and summer. At night the crickets are still chirping, the bees are nosing into the flowers out front, and the hummingbirds still flit about the orange tree across the street. Jupiter dominates the night sky in the east, and the moon is nearly full. At night where we are there is no difference between what you see with your eyes open or closed, except when the moon is out, it makes a huge difference.

Great report trpt2345. I loved the meal we had at Restaurant Lu (the lamb chop was one of the best things I ate on my trip). Lucero Soto Arriaga is the chef and I believe her family has owned the building the hotel/restaurant houses for many years (apparently it used to be a casino).

trpt2345 wrote:It gets down into the upper forties at night, so when I take the dogs out early it's a little chilly. And there's no heat in the houses here, nor air conditioning. But by 11 or so the sun takes the edge off and by noon or one it's terrific. And it never snows, or even freezes. We're at about 19 degrees north latitude, well south of the tropic of cancer. The length of days only varies by about an hour and 45 minutes between winter and summer. At night the crickets are still chirping, the bees are nosing into the flowers out front, and the hummingbirds still flit about the orange tree across the street. Jupiter dominates the night sky in the east, and the moon is nearly full. At night where we are there is no difference between what you see with your eyes open or closed, except when the moon is out, it makes a huge difference.

Mmm. Crickets and hummingbirds, orange trees and flowers -- sounds might nice. Of course, that consistent weather also is a real blessing if you want great, fresh produce all year round.

Thanks for the reports -- on the food and the weather.

Cynthia wrote:

trpt2345 wrote:

Mmm. Crickets and hummingbirds, orange trees and flowers -- sounds might nice. Of course, that consistent weather also is a real blessing if you want great, fresh produce all year round.

Thanks for the reports -- on the food and the weather.

The produce here is outstanding, and cheap. The local store just got bananas from Chiapas, 3 and a half pesos per kilo. That works out to about $0.15 per pound. We bought some cucumbers to cut up and douse with lime juice and powdered chills along with the jicamas, again about a dime a pound. Tomatoes are generally the plum variety but are ripe and flavorful, about forty cents a pound. Avocados, papaya, melons, oranges, all wonderful. I tried some apples but as it turns out they're mostly from the US and a bit worse for wear.

The growing season here is not all year despite the temperatures, it's divided into dry season and rainy season, which just ended, and won't start again until May more or less. There isn't that much irrigation here as compared to California, so it's not quite as wonderful. But hey, still not bad. There are yellow dandelions coming up even now.

Today's report is about a little hole in the wall place downtown where we have enjoyed consistently high quality food and spirit-saving beverages just off the beaten path downtown. La Invidia (The Envious One) is a bar and restaurant about a block and a half north and east of the zocalo, the Plaza de Armas. Tucked away among papelerias and places to sell gold and change dollars and stops for about 63 bus lines, it's a pleasant little place with a small exposure to the street and more ample open inside space, like many places in Mexico. It's almost a cliche that places in Mexico present a small, nondescript narrow profile on the street that opens up to a beautiful interior (private) space. The menu is relatively small, daily specials, comida corridas (low cost all-inclusive specials) and various meat and fish specials, non of which are more than about ten bucks. We discovered this place almost as soon as we arrived here at the end of July-at first we came often out of necessity and now less often but just as happily when we're in that area of the downtown.

Tonight I didn't feel like my usual tacos dorados, so I tried the chilaquiles with chicken, on the breakfast menu but the enthusiastic cook/waitress assured us it would not be a problem. Mrs. Trpt ordered the special, bistek en chile negro. Both included a super tasty lentil soup, smoky with pork bits, beans (heavenly) and rice and a dollop of spicy guacamole. Really spicy guacamole, maybe the spiciest I ever had, but it was good, the heat did not overwhelm. And 50 pesos, about $3.90 each. We were famished, having run around downtown on a variety of errands, and we were very happy, not for the first time. This is one of the serendipitous finds that makes life so interesting. The cook is related to the manager who is the brother of the owner and who will regale us with tales of Mexican and Morelian history, ply us with unusual and local drinks and generally make us feel like we're part of the family. The manager also speaks good English, if you happen by don't be shy.

El Invidia
72 Pino Suarez Colonia Central
Morelia, Michoacan

Another place we have frequented and has become a favorite is La Casona, a bar and restaurant across from the Conservatorio de las Rosas in what is known as El Jardin de las Rosas. It has a good view of the balcony/promenade of the Conservatorio that was used in the 1700's to show off the young ladies of marriageable age on Friday nights. (The Conservatorio originally was a refuge for orphan girls of Spanish descent and also widows. They were educated by nuns and taught musical instruments, something similar to what Vivaldi had. It has since evolved into a more or less regular conservatory). One of the more beautiful places in Morelia, there are several establishments next to each other, La Casona is what we consider the best. Outdoor tables, inside seating too if the weather turns bad (read:rain) with a great bar and a decent menu. I am partial to the tacos dorados (what would be termed flautas in Chicago) plus a stellar version of sopa de tortilla, shrimp cocktail, guacamole, quesadillas, queso funded with chorizo, all sorts of Mexican fare. Nothing as creative or fancy as Lu or San Miguelito, but solid straight down the middle mexican in a great setting. They have two for one beers every day too. "Arabe" dancing on Thursdays.

La Casona
311 Jardin de las Rosas
Morelia, Michoacan

We stumbled on a new place that has quickly moved into heavy rotation, a seafood place a little off the beaten path. We had to go to the government office of services for emigrants to register our marriage officially in Mexico. We just so happened to park in front of this restaurant, Mariscos el Navagante and after a long wait and endless stamping and shuffling of papers we decided that a beverage and lunch was in order. It turned out to be a serendipitous discovery, very good fresh seafood at reasonable prices. We had seafood cocktails and a beer the first time, me a campechana (mixed shrimp, octopus, scallops and what turned out to be manta ray, a little chewy but not bad). Mrs. stuck with the shrimp. Both were huge and exquisitely fresh, with a spicy seafood soup lagniappe that was also just wonderful. We've been back three times already, and we've never even spent twenty bucks for the two of us. We've tried various fillets, grilled seafood which kabobs, shrimp empanadas, ceviche. I have been trying to find good seafood spots but so far have been disappointed, this one hits the bullseye. Always crowded, a family place, and like many seafood places here it closes early, 6:00 p.m. I'm not sure why exactly, but mexicans do like to eat the big meal of the day in the afternoon. There is a lot of traffic in the middle of the afternoon here because of people going and coming from siesta which is generally 2:00 to 4:00 every afternoon. So civilized. The pacific ocean is only about 150 miles away, and everything we've had so far has been quite fresh. There are supposedly two other locations in other neighborhoods but this one is the original and maybe a five minute drive from the house. I'm already planning a Saturday lunch.

And for those of you in Chicago, it was 76 and sunny today, crickets were chirping when I walked the dogs tonight.

Marsicos el Navagante.
Antonio del Moral No. 373-B (corner with Soledaredad)
Colonia: Col. Nueva Chapultepec
Tel: (443) 3401108

Sigh, you know we hate you. You keep posting and I'll keep shoveling snow.

mbh wrote:Sigh, you know we hate you. You keep posting and I'll keep shoveling snow.

I was a little disappointed that the winter in Chicago had been so mild, it didn't give me any opportunity to gloat. But it will even out, I know. I have a rehearsal with the kiddies that's over at one, then we're going for lunch at El Navigante.

Just wanted to say how much I'm enjoying these missives, trpt2345. I've flown into Morelia several times on the way to a small village outside Salvatierra and I've eaten at many small - sometime roadside - places in the space in between. I LOVE the GTO/Michoacán region and I wish I was there now. Please, keep these postcards going.

I have a question for you.
There used to be a little taco joint around here called Taqueria Morelos, so I figure it likely he was from Morelia.

They had a wonderful salsa that I haven't seen anywhere since. It was pale green, quite hot and garlicky yet fresh tasting. The owner wouldn't tell me what's in it but denied avocado.

Is there anything like that down there? The closest thing I've seen is a salsa de lechuga, buy I've never tasted one. I suspect is an oil and water emulsion that gives it the creamy appearance.

JoelF wrote:I have a question for you.
There used to be a little taco joint around here called Taqueria Morelos, so I figure it likely he was from Morelia.
They had a wonderful salsa that I haven't seen anywhere since. It was pale green, quite hot and garlicky yet fresh tasting. The owner wouldn't tell me what's in it but denied avocado.
Is there anything like that down there? The closest thing I've seen is a salsa de lechuga, buy I've never tasted one. I suspect is an oil and water emulsion that gives it the creamy appearance.

Morelos is different from Morelia. Morelia is the capital of the state of Michoacan, and Morelos is a state, dominated by its largest city, Cuernavaca. There are green salsas here that are very hot (the cuisine here tends to the more picante side of Mexican food) but I can't yet provide a lot of info on that score. But I'll keep an eye out. Try asking the guy from Taquieria Morelos where he's from.

Street food report-we finally found decent freshly made churros from a street vendor on the corner of Garcia Obeso (a one way southbound street that begins directly behind the cathedral) and the major commercial avenue, Lazaro Cardenas, maybe six blocks from downtown and just over the official border that marks the zone de monuments, the UN designated world historical site. Just a spot on the street with a large caldron filled with lard and a gas burner. Ten pesos for a bag of six four inch pieces. A little excessive I thought (the guy in the zocalo in Xalapa only charges five for the same amount) but they're crisp, hot, and not underdone on the inside (a major fault with poorly done churros). A dash of cinnamon, dusted in sugar, a real treat. The only problem is that it's only a couple blocks from our favorite paleteria, and paletas and churros don't really mix, to my mind, so we have to agree beforehand which it's going to be.

By the way, we had another really excellent 3:00 p.m. dinner at El Navegante last Friday, after it appears that my travails with inmigración are coming to an end. (The paperwork is finally done after seven straight days of visits, each at least three hours and I am just waiting a call for when my visa arrives from DF). I had a fillet (bacalao?) thinly sliced, wrapped around a filling of shrimp, octopus and manchengo cheese, then deep fried. Mrs. Trpt had a grilled fillet (looked like skate) which was also terrific. Throw in a couple fish tacos and shrimp empanadas, the whole thing with tip was $20. Just can't beat it.

trpt2345 wrote:Morelos is different from Morelia. Morelia is the capital of the state of Michoacan, and Morelos is a state, dominated by its largest city, Cuernavaca. There are green salsas here that are very hot (the cuisine here tends to the more picante side of Mexican food) but I can't yet provide a lot of info on that score. But I'll keep an eye out. Try asking the guy from Taquieria Morelos where he's from.

Thanks for the geography lesson, consider me schooled.
I can't ask him, the place has been gone for years (and I still lust for that salsa on tacos al pastor). The place was an ex-gas station on River Road, he expanded to a second place on Rand which went belly up and I think that torpedoed the original. snif.

One thing I miss most here is the diversity of different foods one can find in Chicago. Today we actually found a more than decent pizza place, De Leña Pizzeria in the Plaza de las Americas shopping center on the third floor, above Liverpool. A wood fired pizza oven in the igloo shape. The pizzas aren't exactly neapolitan but close with a crisper, almost cracker crust, very fresh ingredients. We opted for a margherita, really well made, fresh tomatoes (I've even stopped using canned tomatoes here when I cook, fresh are plentiful and actually fresh). Speaking of which we had a caprese salad again with stellar tomatoes and really good mozzarella (purportedly home made). Total with tip about $35, so a little on the upscale side but well worth it. I had despaired of finding good pizza here. Now only if there were Chinese better than food court quality........

Domino's is all over the place here. They often use motorbikes for delivery. I saw a bike the other day from a rival pizza place that had a sign that said, in Spanish, "If we're not there in thirty minutes, well, we'll be there in forty".

De Leña Pizza
Av. Enrique Ramirez Miguel 1000-315
Plaza Las Americas, 58270
Morelia, Mich.‎
Tel. (443) 315 53 44

There's another location on Garcia De Leon but I've never been there.

Yesterday I had to go downtown as always to rehearse the kiddies (concert on the 23rd), and Mrs. Trpt came with me. As I rehearsed she sat in La Casona across the street in the Jardin de las Rosas and had coffee and read a magazine. When I was finished we had to to to a jewelry store near the cathedral to leave a deposit for a watch repair. As we approached I noticed a rooftop restaurant on the top of the Hotel Los Juaninos, so on our way back we decided to stop and have a drink and maybe a bite and enjoy the view of the plaza and cathedral.

What a good decision. It's a very old hotel but sleekly updated. We took an elevator to the roof; the floor was ancient heavy dark wood, but the rest of it was quite modern, a cream and tan decor. The view was in fact spectacular, we could see the mountains over the surrounding buildings. We ordered a couple of bloody marys (very well done) and an appetizer plate. We weren't prepared for the quality of the food, it was spectacular. Puntas de res in a chile arbol sauce, picante indeed. Fabulous slices of chorizo that just exploded with flavor, and maybe the best chicken taquitos dorados (what they call flautas in the US) I've ever had. With terrific quesadillas de queso, guacamole and frijoles with a hint of chorizo. We greeted the chef when he walked by and expressed our delight. We going to have to go back there, if something so simple was so well done I'd love to see what they do with a whole meal. On the corner of Morelos Sur and Madero, just east across the street from the cathedral.

Morelos Sur 39 Centro Histórico CP 58000 .
443 3120036.
juaninos@hoteljuaninos.com.mx

We had been told about a relatively new Italian place downtown, Pulcinella's on the corner of Allende and Quintana Roo, technically 555 Allende. One of my Mexican friends said "You have to put your teeth on one of their pizzas". Well, we have done so four times now and I feel ready to report.

In short, excellent. This place would be a smash in Chicago. The owner, Massimo, had a couple restaurants in Denver for fifteen years, then a place in Patzcuaro near here for the last three years or so. When I asked him why he moved here, he said Patzcuaro is more seasonal and he needed something more steady, because now he has four and a half year old triplet girls. Massimo's wife Shadia (from Patzcuaro) is one of the waitresses. It is in a very charming old place (well, everyplace downtown is old, it's all historical site stuff and nothing can be substantially changed). Several rooms including a courtyard open to the sky, heavy old dark wood furniture on stone floors. Massimo is from Napoli and had a traditional beehive wood burning stove built here from Italian blueprints. The pizzas are the focus, we have had the quattro fromagi, margherita, and twice the prosciutto/artichoke heart one. Massimo lets his crust dough rise twice, once for two hours and then again for three, and prepares each one as the orders come in. Takes time but boy is it worth it. Pizzas come with a nicely charred crust and a slightly droopy center as is found with Naploitano pizzas often. The other offering are quite good as well, we always get the antipasto mixto (salami, prosciutto, artichoke hearts, mozzarella, olives, toasted bread made on premises). I've had a couple of the pastas which are first rate (it doesn't hurt that tomatoes here are ripe, delicious and cheap). It's gone to the top of the rotation, not the least because the food is stellar, the triplets are immensely charming, Shadia and Massimo are exceedingly cordial, it has a really homey feel. Prices are good, cheaper than De Leña (see above) and glasses of better than average house wine usually come with a meal or full pizza order. Since it is several blocks from the cathedral and sort of around back we've never had problems parking. I don't think we've paid more than 300 pesos for the two of us, about $26, for wine, pizza, appetizer, and tip

It's holy week (semana santa) here and everything is closed for the next two weeks, except banks and retail stores. They take vacations seriously. I'm off from teaching until April 16. Now is the time when traditionally people from Mexico City go to Acapulco. This really is a blood pressure lowering kind of place.

trpt — Sounds like a great pizzeria... How does Massimo deal with ingredients? mostly imported items? What items are local? What about, for example, his mozzarella? Who makes it?... Or the prosciutto and olives? To what degree does he use North American (broad sense - Mexico and US and Canada) products and to what degree does he rely on imports from Italy?... I know Italian and Spanish olive oil dominate the Mexican market, but there are nowadays also oils produced in northern Mexico... Just curious... if you get a chance to ask...

This is a great thread... looking forward to more of your posts... many thanks!

Antonius

Antonius wrote:trpt — Sounds like a great pizzeria... How does Massimo deal with ingredients? mostly imported items? What items are local? What about, for example, his mozzarella? Who makes it?... Or the prosciutto and olives? To what degree does he use North American (broad sense - Mexico and US and Canada) products and to what degree does he rely on imports from Italy?... I know Italian and Spanish olive oil dominate the Mexican market, but there are nowadays also oils produced in northern Mexico... Just curious... if you get a chance to ask...
This is a great thread... looking forward to more of your posts... many thanks!
Antonius

We had a long sit down the other day, they finally got a liquor license and Massimo has asked me help out with some planning. Doors were closed, chairs up on the table, I had some experience in the bar end of the bar/restaurant industry some years back. I asked him about sourcing for his food, it's mostly mozzarella, parmesan and pasta that he imports, the rest is local for the most part. Flour, tomatoes (he loves the tomatoes here, as do I) basil and other spices which he says are much cheaper and just as good as in Italy. Veggies, olive oil. I forgot to ask about the salami and prosciutto. Even the balsamic vinegar is local, and pretty good. It's become a home away from home, lunch is rarely under three hours. The triplets are turning five, school started yesterday. Life is buenissimo here south of the border.

We had to go to the American consulate in Guadalajara for some paperwork last week, we took a bus at 10 a.m. which got us there at 1:30 (it's about 175 miles, beautiful trip through mountains and valleys, it's still the rainy season so there was a veritable riot of wildflowers everywhere). A quick cab trip to the consulate and we were in and out by 2:30. Having a few hours to kill before the return trip we cabbed to a suburban mall, as sleek and fancy as anything in Chicago and hit up P.F. Chang's. They have five or so branches in Mexico City and one each in Cuernavaca and Guadalajara. I have been dying for Chinese, it's been more than a year. And it was middle of the road decent like a good north suburban strip mall Chinese place, egg rolls, dumplings, hot and sour soup, Mongolian beef, dan dan noodles. I was in heaven. And totally jammed at three in the afternoon on a Thursday. Big cement horse statue out front just like every other P.F. Chang. Service was decent for Mexico (customer service in any kind of business is generally lacking). And with a couple foofy drinks with tax and tip it was about $55, expensive for Mexico but not bad at all. A lot of ex pat fun (there was a large table of Americans). There are not many Chinese in Mexico, many were imported to work on the railroads as in America but the Mexican government launched a campaign to expel Chinese nationals from 1930 to 1940, even those born in Mexico. Go figure. There is a tiny community in Mexico City, maybe 3,000 families, with the largest Chinese community being in Mexicali on the US border.

Guadalajara is sort of like the Chicago of Mexico, second biggest city, a business hub. I have only been there twice and I'd love to explore more. The American embassy in Mexico City is a bit further away and Guadalajara is so much easier to deal with that I am sure we'll be back once we figure out where to leave the dogs for an extended stay (the in-laws watched them for our day trip). The rainy season is winding down, it was pretty rainy this year. In another few weeks it will be dry season and as winter as it ever gets here. It's still in the low eighties during the days but mornings have begun to dip into the forties.

Day trip out of town, thought about El Tigre but I wanted to try some of the turkey/mole places on the road. It's a historic pairing, going back to pre-conquest Aztec times. Prime sources of meat before the conquest were turkey and venison (cows, goats, pigs, chickens all being colonial imports). We hit one about eight miles from Quiroga on highway 15. Crowded as hell, a good sign. I ordered the turkey in mole, Mrs. Trpt some shrimp. Fabulous all around. The mole was exquisite, more sweet and not terrifically picante which worked well. I have to say turkey and mole go together like pork and pineapple or chicken and barbecue. The shrimp were great too, it's hard to go wrong with seafood when you're only a couple of hours from the ocean. Tortillas hecho a mano, made by hand and a couple of beers, what is not to like? With flan for dessert 130 pesos altogether, about eleven bucks. Wonderful service too, Mexicans are so freaking polite and friendly.

I love your posts. You describe things so well that I can easily envision the places you to go and what you eat. Please keep posting!

LikestoEatout wrote:I love your posts. You describe things so well that I can easily envision the places you to go and what you eat. Please keep posting!

Glad you like them, will continue.

Today was Santa Cecilia day, also El Dia de Los Maestros, Teacher's Day. A banquet at the school. Last year was carnitas and chicharones, today was tacos a la canasta, corundas Oaxaca style (sort of like tamales in banana leaves) and pozole. No beer this year, a big disappointment, but agua de jamaica and orchata. All the tables had tostaditas and a really spicy guacamole. So at least we had free food but not as fun as last year. This year they let the students come, which for me kind of spoils the whole idea of the thing. But I was able to confront a couple of reprobates who need to step up. Classes were cancelled today-Mexicans love their holidays. Monday was a national holiday, the anniversary of the 1910 revolution (which was actually Tuesday but like the US they like having three day weekends now). December 1 is the inauguration of the new president Peña Nieto, so at least everyone will know who will be stealing all the money for the next six years. That's a national holiday too. The outgoing President, Calderon was in town to dedicate a library yesterday. He is from here and was formerly the governor of the state (Michoacan) so there were black helicopters and camouflage trucks with fifty caliber machine guns careening around yesterday. Just another day in the life.

Over Xmas we had visitors, brother in law and wife, niece and her husband. This is the nice side of the family, the ones we like. Of course we went to Pulcinella for pizza and pasta on the 23rd. Excellent as always, we hadn't been in quite a while. We're going again this afternoon to see some of our local friends. We then headed out the 24th to Dos Tigres for steaks and quesadillas, nothing like hand made tortillas from corn that grows within view of your table. We also had some chicken breasts in mole, exemplary. The mom who runs the place was not around, the daughters said she had burnt her arms from hot fat and was recovering, we wished her well. Xmas day itself we went downtown to the zocalo for an evening nosh (grilled shrimp, sopa zacatecas, plenty of pie de limon and drinks) then to the rooftop bar at the Hotel Los Juaninos across the street from the cathedral, the bell that we can hear at our home is ear splitting across the street marking the hours, half hours and quarter hours. From the 18th century. A nice cross section for holiday time. Not to rub it in, but at 2 p.m. on Saturday the sun is shining and it is 75 degrees. This morning was 39 and it gets chilly in the house but we're dealing with it. Happy everything to everyone from a most pleasant spot.

I just love your posts, they are so descriptive! I have a friend who is from Mazamitla and who is there now to spend Christmas with family. I know you are about 300 miles away but it sounds so similar to what you describe. She has shown me many photos. My mind pictures it very similar to where you are at. It is a beautiful area and I would love to see it some day!

I'll second (third? fourth?) the praise for these dispatches. Every year, we head down to a friend's house in a little village near Salvatierra in GTO, and your missives bring up very nice memories. We're heading down in February and it can't come soon enough. Thanks for tiding me over!

Have fun. GTO is one state over and things tend to be pretty spicy. We love it. My favorite place after Veracruz is Acapulco. Beautiful this time of year, not quite so hot but still tropical and beautiful. We're way up in the mountains which is different from sea level but it is quite mild, about 75 every day.