Montreal Pastrami Sandwich from Fumare (French Market)

This sandwich deserves it's own thread! I've had smoked pastrami in Montreal (Schwartz) and the one from Fumare at the Chicago French Market is just as good if not better. Also had the famous pastrami from Katz in NY, again, Fumare's version is just as good. I was able to get one today after the lunch rush which is great, since usually they seem to sell out. I'm a bit apprehensive to shed light on this for fear of not being able to get this whenever I'm near the French Market but LTH has been so helpful to me, that I feel like this sandwich should be highlighted. One of the best sandwiches I've ever had period.

Also, on a side note, just wanted to comment on the French Market itself, with it's location inside connected to the metra I've always wondered why it's not busier or more celebrated here in Chicago. Not only does it contain quite possibly one of the best Smoked Montreal Pastrami sandwiches but also imo one of the best chocolate crossaints and pastries in Vanille, as well as a solid vietnamese bahn mi place (saigon sisters) etc. Also I had some Beligium fries today and although a bit pricey 4.99/5.99 they were very crisp, double fried with some great garlic mayo (also had the truffle mayo for 1.00 more) and some of the best fries I've had in Chicago overall. For those of you that haven't had a chance to swing by the French Market, you're really missing out!

Fumare at the Chicago French Market
131 N Clinton St
Chicago, IL 60661
(312) 930-4220

Awesome - I lived in Montreal for 5 years, but figured it was a futile attempt to find smoked meat here. Definitely have to check it out. Any other places you've found that come close?

I agree, a great sandwich, had it 2 days in a row about a year ago and was really impressed.


only pic I have:



I didnt find much else to my liking at the French Market, but Fumare is worth the stop alone.

FoodSnob77 wrote:Also, on a side note, just wanted to comment on the French Market itself, with it's location inside connected to the metra I've always wondered why it's not busier or more celebrated here in Chicago. Not only does it contain quite possibly one of the best Smoked Montreal Pastrami sandwiches but also imo one of the best chocolate crossaints and pastries in Vanille, as well as a solid vietnamese bahn mi place (saigon sisters) etc. Also I had some Beligium fries today and although a bit pricey 4.99/5.99 they were very crisp, double fried with some great garlic mayo (also had the truffle mayo for 1.00 more) and some of the best fries I've had in Chicago overall. For those of you that haven't had a chance to swing by the French Market, you're really missing out!

I agree that the French Market is a great place. I haven't been to Fumare yet but now I want to go! Vanille is one of the best bakers/pastrymakers in the city and their stuff at the French Market is as fresh and as good as at their shop on Clybourn. There are other great places too, such as Pastoral for cheese and sandwiches, Lillie's Q for barbecue, etc.

I think the reason it's not busier or more celebrated is that it's so hidden. It has no visibility from outdoors, so the only folks who would notice it are Metra commuters, and only those who go through that concourse rather than the main Ogilvie building at the south end of the platforms. If you've never been there, it will help to bring directions, which you can find here on the French Market website. For those who aren't already downtown on foot or by train, note that the French Market offers free validated parking for up to an hour, with a $20 minimum purchase; that same link has details and directions for their covered ground-floor parking.

I've had this sandwich a number of times and I do think it's good, but I don't get what's different from a corned beef sandwich. to me it tastes more like a store bought whole corned beef that we sometimes buy and cook in our crock pot. I don't get much pepper like pastrami, and I don't get much smoke. I've had Montreal smoked brisket at Zingermann's in Ann Arbor and it was entirely different... granted I've never made it to Montreal for the real deal.

Because I work across the street from Ogilvie, I grab lunch at the French Market once a week on average... my comments as to why it's not more popular/celebrated:

1) It's out of the way and not well promoted. I work basically across the street and there are co-workers who still don't know it exists. And it's too far to lure people from the Loop or Michigan Ave. just to eat or shop. and lack of reasonable parking hurts, too.

1) It's bi-polar in scope. They couldn't decide whether it's a market or a food court. It doesn't have an extensive enough selection of ingredients, etc. to shop to cook a meal at home. And it didn't have enough option as a food court early on. It seems to be better as it has shifted to more of a food court format. Really, the one big grocery at the entrance is the only place to buy meat and produce.

2) It's pricey. The banh mi at Siagon Sisters are OK, but twice the price of Nhu Lan or Ba Le. The tacos at the Mexican stand are mediocre, small and twice the price of any taqueria. Lots of the places only sell fancy $3 organic frou frou bottled teas & gourmet sodas, or over charge for Coke/Pepsi. The fries are too expensive to add on as a side. It's hard to buy lunch for less than about $12-14 there, even if you're getting a sandwich, chips and a pop.

3) It's slow. It's nice to get made to order food, but some of the places take way too long. The fries are fried to order, wait 5 min. The Korean place cooks all to order -- 10 minutes. Pastoral is always slow. Many times, one wants to get things at different places, meaning multiple lines. I can spend 20 minutes to buy a pop at the grocery thing and then wait for my sandwich at Pastoral. Then I still have to find a table and eat. Lillie's has been super impressive, however, in their speed. And Siagon Sisters has cut their waits from order to food in hand by about 80% since they opened.

3) Seating - it's always crowded at lunch, even when I go on the later side (1pm or so). they have all these standing tables, which they need to either replace with regular tables or add stools.

Despite having one bad experience at Fumare, I really like what they are doing there overall, and really enjoy their Pastrami sandwich, which they'll be the first to admit is not technically Montreal Smoked Meat (they don't even call it that).

As a point of reference, here's a shot of the "real deal" from Schwartz's in Montreal from a trip I took there last summer.

Schwartz's Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich

I've been over to Fumare a few times since ChefJeff posted about them in the "Best thing you've eaten lately" thread.

I think it's a great sandwich and the owners are really nice. I like that you can buy a hunk of the "pastrami" to make at home. I brought some down to my dad's place when he was on the mend from surgery and he was blown away by it.

I do agree that there's not much else in the French Market that draws my interest. Though I do want to try Lilly Q at some point.

blipsman wrote:lack of reasonable parking hurts, too.

I think free validated parking with a $20 purchase is very reasonable. However, it's not well promoted, so that few people are aware that that option exists.

nsxtasy wrote:

blipsman wrote:lack of reasonable parking hurts, too.

I think free validated parking with a $20 purchase is very reasonable. However, it's not well promoted, so that few people are aware that that option exists.

Free parking is only good for an hour and it's down the block... so that's a pretty quick stop into the market. And over 1 hr., it jumps to $14.

I've been dropping into the market maybe once evey few months since it opened, looking in vain to try the smoked pastrami (always sold out). Today I stopped by.

First, regarding the market itself, I was very happy and encouraged to see the place slammed all around at 1:00 pm. Nearly every stand had a line, even the grocery stores. So I don't see the criticism that it remains unpopular. I really think that strong reco's by the Sandwich dude, Dolinski and others have caused people to start seeking the market out. At least 2 folks in line with me at Fumare were out of town "food tourists" and not Loop workers. So in my long view, the market seems to have come into its own, much more so than I'd expected based on sad prior visits.

In terms of the purported lack of interesting options, I'm a glass half full guy here too. Vanille and Pastoral do what they do about as well as any in Chicago and would be good in any city. They are anchors. I honestly think the market would have shuttered by now if not for Pastoral. And the market clearly has worthy vendors who would not otherwise have a permanent Loop presence based on rent alone. Delightful Pastries is a great example. Always look forward to their breads and peirogies. Saigon Sisters, Lillie Q, the frites place and even the dumpy Korean fast food stand (like a street fest booth, but Korean) make for a solid food court substitute. And there are worse fish couinters in town. They always have some nice options at City Market, along side the Balkan-tinged groceries.

And I finally scored the pastrami. Unlike some of the posters above, I tasted a very distinct BBQ smoke note, stronger than some Texas briskets I've been served at reputable establishments. I thought the cure/brine was sufficient to make this a pastrami or smoked meat, as opposed to just corned beef with some smoke. The piece I received was very fatty, in a good way (consistent stripe through the brisket, not a blob on one end). I honestly think the portion I tried was like a Langer's brisket that had been finished on a backyard smoker. Pretty, pretty good. It's small batch cured and smoked meat, so I assume the product varies, including the amount of smoke and spice. But I'm a fan based on today's sample.

As for cheap parking, the place is downtown in the second largest business ditrict in this hemisphere, after Midtown Manhattan. Free parking abounds, in Schaumburg.

Just to clarify, what time should one go, to hope to find the "Montreal pastrami sandwich" at Fumare? It sounds like they are likely to have them at the start of the lunch rush (presumably 11:30ish) but the chances diminish after the lunch rush (say 1:00 or later); is that correct?

I ended up heading to the French Market for lunch today, too. Yes, the market was quite busy at lunchtime today... did not expect the crowds at 1pm I encountered, but there seemed to be a group from somewhere that was contributing to the crowd. I'm making this judgement of many tables with people who didn't look like the typical worker crowd and who lingered in ways workers don't. Also, Steve Dolinsky happened to be there today filming a segment. I saw him when he was checking out the new Kosher spot (replacing the previous one) but on Twitter he mentioned a segment about Beavers Donuts on tonight.

I've never encountered Fumare being out of their pastrami, even though I do tend to go to lunch on the later side. I've only gotten it maybe once in the past 3-4 months, so perhaps they've gotten more press and that's increased demand? And I will second the comment made above about the owners... I've always enjoyed chatting with them ever since the market opened about 3 years ago (back before they even had the pastrami).

As for the Korean place, it is pretty decent given the limited Asian options in the area -- that's actually what I had today, as they've got some good meal-size soups like the udon and hot tofu.

I think that some of the places at the market are missing an opportunity by not being open earlier in the morning when the commuter traffic is arriving. I take the train and when I have been through there in the morning not much is open. If I could, I would stop for breakfast or pick up a bahn mi in the morning to eat later at lunch.

The French Market is a bit more a walk than I prefer at lunch but I'll make it over there once a month or so. Todays pastrami was the perfect mix of peppercorn crusted bark and luscious fatty pieces. The mustard being served on the side is a nice touch. Great sandwich for sure.

I got some of the Montreal pastrami around 1:30 this past Wednesday. It's really, really moist, and tender, and tasty, and spicy, and smoky. Yes, and fatty - as described well above, marbled through the meat, rather than a blob on the end. Very different from a traditional Jewish pastrami, and worth a trip to the French Market just to try it.

I took some of what I bought home, and it's going to be hash for dinner tonight.

The French Market was doing a nice business when I was there, although the lunch rush was quieting down.

Unfortunately, Lillie Q's booth will be closed for the immediate future, due to the fire at the restaurant.

nsxtasy wrote:It's really, really moist, and tender, and tasty, and spicy, and smoky. Yes, and fatty - as described well above, marbled through the meat, rather than a blob on the end - very different from a traditional Jewish pastrami, and worth a trip to the French Market just to try it.

I don't believe that's true - traditionally (in NY that is, and going back about a century), pastrami has been made from the deckle, and while the deckle certainly has lots of fat on the exterior, it is also very well marbled on the interior. I don't know where you've been getting your "traditional Jewish pastrami," but if you haven't experienced the interior marbling, I'm guessing you've been eating pastrami made from the point, but that is not what the Jewish delis in the NY area have typically used to make pastrami.

Whoa, bold claims being made on this thread. The sandwich at Fumare is definitely the closest in Chicago that I've come to smoked meat from Schwartz's (I actually had a slightly better imitation in NYC @ the brooklyn flea market), but it's definitely not the same and not as good. That being said, I do think it's the best lunch/dinner food item in the French Market (macaron are desserts and thus I'm not considering them), I always get it if it's available. Like others have mentioned, it is popular and does occasionally sell out before I can get it, especially since I usually go to the market before the opera which is generally in the 6-7pm area. Does it seem to anyone else that the landscape of this place (i.e. the entire market) is constantly changing? That worries me. I bet the rent is quite pricey, which is why the prices of food are generally also high. Everyone keep giving Fumare your money so they stay open!

BR wrote:

nsxtasy wrote:It's really, really moist, and tender, and tasty, and spicy, and smoky. Yes, and fatty - as described well above, marbled through the meat, rather than a blob on the end - very different from a traditional Jewish pastrami, and worth a trip to the French Market just to try it.

I don't believe that's true - traditionally (in NY that is, and going back about a century), pastrami has been made from the deckle, and while the deckle certainly has lots of fat on the exterior, it is also very well marbled on the interior. I don't know where you've been getting your "traditional Jewish pastrami," but if you haven't experienced the interior marbling, I'm guessing you've been eating pastrami made from the point, but that is not what the Jewish delis in the NY area have typically used to make pastrami.

I did not say that traditional Jewish pastrami is not marbled with fat through the meat - of course it is! - so please don't go off on a rant arguing against something I never said. (I'm adjusting the punctuation of my prior post to prevent any additional such misinterpretation.) However, traditional Jewish pastrami has a very different texture (and taste) from the smoked meat served at Fumare. If you haven't been there, it's worth a trip to the French Market just to try it, and see for yourself.

nsxtasy wrote:marbled through the meat, rather than a blob on the end - very different from a traditional Jewish pastrami

nsxtasy wrote:I did not say that traditional Jewish pastrami is not marbled with fat through the meat - of course it is!

Suiname wrote:Does it seem to anyone else that the landscape of this place (i.e. the entire market) is constantly changing? That worries me. I bet the rent is quite pricey, which is why the prices of food are generally also high. Everyone keep giving Fumare your money so they stay open!

Well, places go in and out of business all the time. Some of the vendors who have left the market have done so because their original place of business shut, such as Canady Le Chocolatier. And now Lillie's Q on a temporary basis, due to their overnight fire. But the fact that other attractive businesses have opened up in the French Market is a very good thing. I was pleased to see how busy it was the other day. I always enjoy my visits there, and I would encourage others to visit as well - not only Fumare, but all the other places as well. There are many culinary joys there, all under one roof!

BR wrote::?:

Perhaps instead of changing the meaning by excerpting one line from a former version, Brad, you should quote the entire paragraph, using the revised version in which I clarified the punctuation to prevent your continued nitpicking and ranting:

nsxtasy wrote:I got some of the Montreal pastrami around 1:30 this past Wednesday. It's really, really moist, and tender, and tasty, and spicy, and smoky. Yes, and fatty - as described well above, marbled through the meat, rather than a blob on the end. Very different from a traditional Jewish pastrami, and worth a trip to the French Market just to try it.

Have you been to Fumare? If not, you should try it! Then you can post your own opinions about the food there, instead of endlessly picking apart posts from others.

nsxtasy wrote:Then you can post your own opinions about the food there, instead of endlessly picking apart posts from others.

Excellent advice!

BR wrote:I don't believe that's true - traditionally (in NY that is, and going back about a century), pastrami has been made from the deckle . . .

As someone who loves pastrami, has read quite a bit about it and has made it several times, I'm fairly certain it was traditionally made with navel plate, not brisket. It's evolved into brisket -- usually whole, not just deckle -- but it wasn't always that way. I've made it with navel plate a couple of times and find it too fatty. But if you're really going 'old skool,' that's the cut you want.

=R=

ronnie_suburban wrote:

BR wrote:I don't believe that's true - traditionally (in NY that is, and going back about a century), pastrami has been made from the deckle . . .

As someone who loves pastrami, has read quite a bit about it and has made it several times, I'm fairly certain it was traditionally made with navel plate, not brisket. It's evolved into brisket -- usually whole, not just deckle -- but it wasn't always that way. I've made it with navel plate a couple of times and find it too fatty. But if you're really going 'old skool,' that's the cut you want.

=R=

Actually, you are correct . . . and I know that's what Katz's has traditionally used. I personally prefer to smoke pastrami from deckle. Although I myself have never smoked it from navel plate.

nsxtasy wrote: There are many culinary joys there, all under one roof!

I agree with this statement for sure. I haven't regretted anything I've gotten there, and I really love that Vanille opened up down there as their macaron is some of the best in the city.

BR wrote:I don't believe that's true - traditionally (in NY that is, and going back about a century), pastrami has been made from the deckle, and while the deckle certainly has lots of fat on the exterior, it is also very well marbled on the interior. I don't know where you've been getting your "traditional Jewish pastrami," but if you haven't experienced the interior marbling, I'm guessing you've been eating pastrami made from the point, but that is not what the Jewish delis in the NY area have typically used to make pastrami.

I've always used the terms point and deckle interchangeably. I understood point to simply be the English term for the Yiddish deckle. I've also heard point/deckle called 2nd cut and the flat, the less fatty part of the brisket, referred to as 1st cut. Navel is old school NY pastrami, though originally it was goose breast, which proved to be too expensive in NY so they switched to less expensive beef navel.

I've made goose breast pastrami for a Pitmaster dinner at Barn & Co, thought it was a real treat. I've also smoked a few cases of navels, though with burnt ends in mind not pastrami. In the end I decided there was a reason people don't use navel for burnt ends.

Never had Fumare's Montreal style, its high on my to-do list, but have had Schwartz's and the mere thought makes me salivate.

Exact terms notwithstanding, BR's point seems to be old school pastrami is striated with fat, of this I agree.

Regards,
Gary

Gary - thanks for that link. Did you buy goose breasts, or buy whole birds and bone out the breast?

G Wiv wrote:I've always used the terms point and deckle interchangeably. I understood point to simply be the English term for the Yiddish deckle. I've also heard point/deckle called 2nd cut and the flat, the less fatty part of the brisket, referred to as 1st cut. Navel is old school NY pastrami, though originally it was goose breast, which proved to be too expensive in NY so they switched to less expensive beef navel.

Actually, so do I . . . and when I mentioned point in the post above, I meant flat and not point. But when typing faster than you think, these errors occur. In any event, I smoked a flat once for pastrami (the first time I made it) . . . once . . . and never again. All of that fatty goodness was nowhere to be found. And while I've never smoked a navel plate, I have found the deckle (yes, point) to be plenty fatty for me the few times I've used it for pastrami . . . doesn't mean I won't try navel this spring or summer for comparison purposes.

Darren72 wrote:Gary - thanks for that link. Did you buy goose breasts, or buy whole birds and bone out the breast?

I bought one frozen retail goose breast at Paulina Market for a test run and a dozen wholesale for the Pitmaster dinner at Chicago Game and Gourmet. Not sure if Chicago Game and Gourmet sells retail, never hurts to call and ask.

Please be aware the cure linked above makes substantially more than is needed for just a couple of goose breasts, it was more than needed for a dozen. The pastrami goose breast turned out really well, its not a difficult project and one well worth doing.

Chicago Game & Gourmet
312-455-1800

I stopped by Fumaré for dinner last night, as the midway point, traveling from a job at the university in Hyde Park, home to Evanston. I'm now a fan. My Montreal-style pastrami "smoked meat" sandwich was good--very, very good. The fellow who prepped my sandwich remarked "I'm very proud of this sandwich" as he handed it to me. Don't know if he says this to everyone, or was making small talk after I had queried the young woman ringing up my order as to what makes this meat different from standard pastrami. I like to believe he was justly proud in the cuts he chose and piled on the rye bread to make me a wonderful meal.

Mild criticisms: the rye bread was not heavily seeded and lacked the strong sourdough and rye flavors of even a grocery store-bought "Beefsteak Hearty Rye." I would have liked a more assertive bread. The choices of potato chips (I saw no potato salads or latkes available) were mundane: I ended up with a little bag of hometown fave Jay's. Ditto for the canned drinks: I settled for an A&W Cream Soda, while I really wished for a Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray. And prices were a bit, well, pricey: $12+ for sandwich, chips and pop. The atmosphere of the incongruously umbrella-topped café table down at the end of the Market, beyond the Belgian chippy, atop bare concrete floors, surrounded by windowless concrete walls, with the loud rumble of trains overhead, had all the charm of a trade show lunch spot at McCormick Place.

But the meat made it all worthwhile. My sandwich struck me as being distinctly NOT fatty or greasy. The meat was cut thickly, as one would cut an Easter ham. I tasted the saltiness of the meat, the smoke, the brisket flavors and occasionally a sharp attack on my tongue of pure black pepper. The meat was tender and, well--perfect. I added a bit of the mustard supplied in a small medicine cup, with the helpfully added plastic knife; but I was conflicted, as I didn't want to disguise the wonderful flavors of the meat itself.

Like I said, I'm now a fan.