Absolutely stunning photos.

Cool to see the store where you bought my yak jerky -- my wife brought some to school, but all the teachers were too frightened to try it.

Yunnan tea is one of my favorites, and all those rinsings must significantly reduce the caffeine (I drink it, of course, precisely because it IS relatively high in caffeine).

Outstanding stuff Josephine and Ray.

Thanks, David. Stay tuned for more Yak. I will also correct some omissions to the tea post.

Josephine wrote:Stay tuned for more Yak.

I really don't have enough conversations where this is a relevant phrase.

Dmnkly wrote:

Josephine wrote:Stay tuned for more Yak.

I really don't have enough conversations where this is a relevant phrase.

Dom, we should talk more often!

I had it in many various iterations when we were in Tibet--from tea to butter to cheese to meat (in different forms as well) to nosing into our tent (but that's another story...)

On the subject of yak, it's regularly available in the Santa Fe farmer's market -- a day trip from Phoenix, nu?

JoelF wrote:On the subject of yak, it's regularly available in the Santa Fe farmer's market -- a day trip from Phoenix, nu?

Just the meat? It would be really great if some yak butter and cheese were also available. . .

I think that may be the case.

JoelF wrote:I think that may be the case.

Good to know. We await your report, Dom.

Eh... about an eight hour drive in either direction. More of a long weekend. It was on the short list for our trip this month until I remembered A) that it's high elevation and flipping cold in March, and B) my ladylove made me promise not to take her anyplace cold. Sadly, yak products will have to wait. But you'd better believe I'll report back when that trip eventually happens

JoelF wrote:On the subject of yak, it's regularly available in the Santa Fe farmer's market -- a day trip from Phoenix, nu?

Did you mean, "a day trip from Phoenix, gnu?"

Josephine — thank you for these splendid posts and the many beautiful photographs. Really wonderful and fascinating stuff...

A

Lijiang Ancient Town: Waterways, Streetfood and More Yak


Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Range in Clouds by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In the valley of the Li River, below the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, lies Lijiang, Yunnan, one of the last intact ancient towns in China. For a thousand years, Lijiang's history has been shaped by trade along the Ancient Tea and Horse Caravan Road - the Southern Silk Road. In 1997, UNESCO designated Lijiang as a World Heritage Site, in recognition of its significance as the cultural center of the Naxi people, and home to smaller numbers of other minorities (Tibetans, Bai, Hui) as well as majority Han Chinese.

These Naxi women serve as official greeters for Black Dragon Pool Park, at the site of the Dragon King Temple.


Naxi Women Smiling, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The UNESCO designation has a goal of conserving Lijiang’s 3,000 traditional homes and removing modern encroachment, while stemming the exodus of the Naxi population. (This slide show chronicles the conservation effort.) Formerly degraded rooftops are some of the most visible signs of the restoration, as is a network of stone-paved streets. The pedestrians-only town center is organized along a centuries-old system of waterways, some with functioning waterwheels.


Rooftops, Lijiang Old Town by Josephine2004, on Flickr


River in Old Town, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Waterwheels, Old Town, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The waterways of Lijiang Old Town are only part of the story. Yunnan has been in the grip of a serious drought for several years. We found this out during our visit to the Black Dragon Pool.


Black Dragon Pool - Yunnan Drought, Year 3 by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The built environment is not the only aspect of Lijiang to receive support; traditional arts have rebounded in recent years. Naxi orchestral music is an ancient form. The instruments and musical scores are said to have been passed on to a Naxi chief by Kublai Khan himself, in gratitude for assistance with a difficult river crossing.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Yunnan’s Bai people are known for their metalwork, including fine silver casting. Unfortunately, my fantasy of bringing that silver vat filled with yak to the LTH annual picnic evaporated with the reality of baggage limits. Still, the acquisitive tourist with a talent for bargaining and packing light could be in luck; prices on these goods, woven fabrics, embroidery, and leatherwork all seem quite reasonable.


Silverwork with Corn by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Perhaps Lijiang’s blowout sales make Black Friday at Toys R Us look tame. We noticed this gentle suggestion to tourists:


Civilized Behavior Recommended by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In spite of the cultural preservation achieved, the impact of the town’s restoration is a paradoxical one, bringing rowdy bar crowds and congestion as a consequence of new economic opportunity. The flow of visitors peaks during spring break and the summer months, with backpackers and (rock) concertgoers filling the town. We saw little evidence of disruption, if you don't count annoying cell-phone ringtones. (Notice also the statue-mimicking street performers at right.)


Cellphone Chat under Wisteria by Josephine2004, on Flickr

While some of Lijiang’s restaurant development seems out of place in an "ancient" town, there are dissenters to that view.


Pizza Hut, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Much of the central district is filled with charming café-restaurants overlooking the waterways.


View of Old Town Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

You can catch your dinner, or choose one of the prepared combinations.


Weighing Fish, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

As for me, forget the fish - give me more of those outstanding mushrooms!


Restaurant Fare, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Sand pot cooking is a Naxi favorite. The method enhances food safety, as all the ingredients are heated to a very high temperature. It was daunting for this gas-cooktop gal to see the flames that the sand pot cooks contended with. On the sign, notice the Naxi script above the Chinese characters. Naxi Dongba pictograms are used on most of the signs in Lijiang, along with Mandarin and English. After post-1949 attempts to suppress the Naxi language, it is widely spoken and promoted by the government.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here is the sandpot we sampled. It was meatless, in deference to a mostly vegetarian couple in our group:


Sandpot Noodle-Veggie Dish by Josephine2004, on Flickr

A dish of greens with saffron and sweet red pepper was more interesting.


Greens with Saffron and Red Pepper by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We made certain to order more of the soft bread we had enjoyed at lunch near Tiger Leaping Gorge. Although it looks undercooked, it was very satisfying.


Naxi Bread, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Favas made another appearance. I can't swear that the sauce on the vegetables was 100% vegetarian. It certainly had the flavor of MSG-enhanced chicken bouillon, though the yellow color may come from the local canola oil, which, if minimally filtered, has a deep golden hue.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Perfectly browned shredded potatoes were topped with sprinklings of cilantro and red pepper. Note to self: Try this at home.


Hash Browns of My Dreams, Yunnan Version by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The star of the show was this chicken dish, which was the only tea leaf-seasoned dish we had in Yunnan. The tea leaves added a note of slight bitterness, and I did notice some of the effects of caffeine. The yellow crumbles were made from a paste of garbanzo bean flour. (I'm glad that Robert, our trip leader, was able to clarify this. Perhaps his many trips to Burma acquainted him with this ingredient. It is mentioned in Naomi Duguid's recent, Burma: Rivers of Flavor.)


Chicken with Tea Leaves by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After lunch, we opted for some walking snacks from these vendors: fresh mulberries, the culinary legacy of silk production.


Fruit Vendors, Lijiang Old Town by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Mulberries (Center) by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Most of the street food vendors offer "greatest hits" available elsewhere in China.


Rice Cake Vendor, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Tofu Vendor, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Lijiang Street Food by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Street Food Stall, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I'd appreciate it if a reader can identify what look like phyllo rolls in the foreground here:


Lijiang Street Food by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Also, we were stumped by the baskets here, at center left. The multi-level contraption at right with a crown of flowers seems to be a sort of fruit drink. I never expected to see a Devon cream tea in China, but those crumpets in the back row might go nicely with the glasses full of strawberries and cream at right, eh?


Street Food< Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

While insects are native to Yunnan cuisine, they are not typically presented on skewers, but rather are deep-fried before being stir-fried. Could it be that the rowdy bar patrons need "I-dare-you" snacks?


Beijing NIght Market Got Nothin' on Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We were still stuffed from lunch, but tried some mutton kebabs. They were dusted with the region's typical seasoning mix of cumin, hot pepper, garlic and salt. Judging by the prevalence of this same spice mixture in a Muslim market in Xi'an, I'm going to go out on a limb and declare that this recipe traveled to Yunnan along the Silk Road, along with many of the local Hui residents, descendants of both Central Asian Muslim traders and Han Chinese. (Note: From both written sources and from talking to people in Yunnan, Shanghai, and Xian, I've concluded that there are different views about whether the Hui constitute an ethnically separate group from the Han).


Kebabs, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The crispy potato discs in front are a Naxi favorite. This vendor appears to be accustomed to juggling:


Street Food Vendor, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But this woman gets the award for mulititasking, if not for OSHA compliance. I wish these photos had turned out better - she was working a fryer while carrying an infant on her back. (!)


Mother and Baby, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Crispy Potatoes Frying by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Lijiang's waterways offer convenient refrigeration for beer. . .


Ad Hoc Cooler by Josephine2004, on Flickr

just the thing to wash down a selection of Yak Meat by Naxi Boy:


Yak Jerky Shop, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I honestly can't remember what on earth those dangling things are, though I am pretty sure I asked - a likely instance of repression.


Yak Jerky Shop, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yak Jerky, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In addition to the wet, Hawaiian poke-style jerky with soy and sesame, there was some unphotogenic dry yak jerky dusted with pork floss and hot pepper. We were OK with the jerky, but we decided against the yak ribs – talk about dry-aged!

Here you go, stevez:


Peasant the Spareribs, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Yak Ribs, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In spite of feeling that Lijiang's charm may be somewhat dampened by commercialism, we had to admit that we enjoyed the tacky fun just as much as some of these tourists at Black Dragon Pool, dressed in Yi, Miao and Naxi finery.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Tourists Dressing Up by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Tourists in Costume, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Costumed Tourists, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Besides, what girl can resist an opportunity for dress-up . . . that is to say --


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

--a chance to exchange vamping for comedy when attempts to fit all of this big, fully dressed Western body into a Naxi bodice proved futile. I was rewarded with gales of laughter and a bear hug from this man, the proprietor of the costume concession.


Dressing the Tourist, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I am told that a hug from a stranger is a true rarity in China, though I am inclined to discount that notion. I'll store the memory of that episode with other moments of shared laughter that arose during our trip to Yunnan.

If Naxi tradition holds, my wish to return to Lijiang is locked up, along with those of many other visitors to this special place.


Lock Up That Wish! by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Baisha and Xuesong Villages: Rock, Paper, Honey!


Laughing at Sisyphus, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The environs of Lijiang hold promise for those seeking a glimpse of village life in Yunnan. While Yunnan remains one of the poorest provinces in China, strategies for development appear to be having an impact. As with everywhere we toured in China, much construction is underway. These men in Baisha, the traditional capital of the Naxi kingdom, seem undaunted by the scope of their task . . . but it is true (to fracture a proverb), that a city of a thousand stones begins with one tap of the sledgehammer.


Splitting Rock, Baisha, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The dilapidated structures seen here show a level of decay that was typical of Lijiang's ancient quarters prior to restoration.


Restoration in Progress, Baisha by Josephine2004, on Flickr

If the lively commerce going on just across the street from this shell is any indication, renewal is imminent for Baisha Old Town. Our travel leaders, Robert and Morrison, commented on the stark changes in Lijiang since their visit the previous spring, and predicted that next year, this Baisha street would be entirely restored and open for business.

Across the road, local women were selling indigo-dyed batik and artifacts of questionable authenticity, many of which we saw repeated in "antiques" markets across Yunnan. The draw of a flea market comes from its capacity to harness nostalgia, though in this case, one or two of the juxtapositions provoked more dissonance than yearning for days gone by.


Flea Market, Baisha, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Pipesmoking Couple by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Guanyin and the Chairman, Pourquoi Pas? by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We were charmed by the exterior of the Baisha Times Restaurant/Country Road Cafe, with its flower boxes over a rushing waterway. Initially, however, we thought they were only serving coffee and a limited menu aimed at tourists.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We were glad that we thought to clarify the menu, because they offered us a pleasant table in a sunny interior courtyard and cooked us one of the very best meals we had on our trip.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here is what we ate, though I cannot remember the order of the dishes.

Crisp, deep-fried eggplant rounds:

Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Beef with Mushrooms:


Beef with Mushrooms and Pickled Red Peppers by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Yunnan Ham with Hot Hot Green Peppers- a dish that reminded me of one at Lao Hunan in Chicago:


Yunnan Ham and Hot Green Peppers by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Lotus Root with Hot Pepper:


Lotus Root with Hot Pepper by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Tofu with Chives and Hot Pepper:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Pea Pods with Chicken:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

and the pinnacle of Naxi home cooking, Potatoes in the Naxi Style, with Pickled Vegetables, including Pickled Peppers:


Naxi Potatoes with Pickled Vegetables by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The accommodating cooks allowed us to come into the kitchen and photograph their preparation of a second order of the dynamite potatoes they had served us. (Although I will leave it up to you to find a way to approximate the pickle that gave the dish its complexity, I did manage to jot down a recipe, which I will pass on in a separate post that will offer recipes from our trip.)


Yunnan Cook at Work by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Kitchen Scene, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

While Naxi townspeople of Baisha are engaged in the transformation of rocks into dwellings, the history of the Naxi people is embedded in paper - papermaking to be exact.


Making Naxi Paper by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This man is making paper the Naxi way. This ancient process of treating bark is associated with bark-clothing traditions that spread throughout the ancient world. According to our guide, a woman in her 20's, Naxi villages continue to harvest bark and make paper the traditional way. Some contemporary uses for bark cloth remain, as it has water-repellent properties. This photo shows pieces of the rustic material for sale at a roadside shop:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In ancient times, perhaps as long ago as the 6th century BCE, the use of mulberry bark led to the discovery of sericulture and silk weaving. The Naxi made silk fabric and embroidered silk clothing for Chinese emperors, a role which contributed to their being seen as targets for persecution during the Cultural Revolution. In recent years, the government has supported attempts to revive Naxi crafts and preserve Naxi Dongba religious traditions and artifacts, including this manuscript. It is a narrative that, in its context, may be similar in significance to the Bayeux Tapestry.


Naxi Manuscript, Dongba Culture Museum by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After lunch, we made our way to the Dabaoji Palace and temple complex. Naxi religious frescoes painted on the stone walls of that temple were once saved by paper - that is, saved from destruction during the Cultural Revolution when a quick thinking Naxi resident covered them with propaganda posters containing images of Chairman Mao and revolutionary slogans. The Red Guards sent to destroy the frescoes did not dare risk censure by defacing images of Mao, so the frescoes survived intact. Seeing the wisteria in the courtyard of the temple made it hard to imagine that such a peaceful place was ever the scene of such dramatic upheaval.


Dongba Temple, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

However, Yunnan's history contains a great deal of upheaval. In the early part of the 20th century, a warlord ruled and gangs of brigands roamed the province. It was to this Yunnan that Joseph Rock, an Austrian-American botanist, adventurer and de-facto ethnographer, came in 1922. One of the first Westerners to visit Northwestern Yunnan and Tibet, Rock became well-known after he published an account of his travels in National Geographic (July 1931). (For a contemporary account of trip retracing Rock’s plant-seeking forays into Tibet, see this ambitious blog In the Footsteps of Joseph Rock by Michael Woodhead, a British journalist.)


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In Xuesong Village, near Lijiang, the compound where Rock lived has been opened as a tourist attraction, and the town now offers amenities for tourists, such as guest houses and donkey rides. In spite of these changes, daily life retains its timeworn rhythms.


Xuesong Village by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Smoking Break in Yunnan Village by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Yunnan is a tobacco-growing province; in fact, tobacco is its biggest export crop. We noticed these leaves in Lijiang Market, but we didn't see anyone rolling their own smokes.


Tobacco, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Although thousands of Naxi manuscripts were destroyed during the upheavals of the 20th century, Joseph Rock was personally responsible for saving one third of the nearly 22,000 Naxi manuscripts that survive worldwide. A number of these works survive in the Naxi Manuscript Collection of the Library of Congress, which Rock sold to the library in the years before he was expelled from China, in 1949.

Leaving Xuesong, we came across a market near a temple complex where merchants had set up tables to sell devotional goods. Although we came as food-centric tourists, rather than pilgrims, our prayers were answered by this woman selling forest products.


Forest Foodstuffs, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

There were walnuts being shelled and spread out to dry and bags of dried mushrooms.


Walnuts Drying by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I believe these were pine nuts, though I cannot be sure. The animal horns are also a mystery.


Pinenuts, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Seed pods here, but what kind? I am pretty sure they are not opium pods. . .


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Also a mystery are these black nuggets. I originally thought they were beans.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I confess to forgetting what these furry things are. We saw them in several markets, and I believe they are medicinal, like some of the other dried bundles in the background. All of these intrigued us.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But the really astounding sight was the big, pitted orange rock at the end of the table. What was it? Old Honey, gathered in the forest from wild bees and aged for up to three years to dry it.


Old Honey, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The woman weighed out a piece of it for us and we ate it on the spot.


Bounty of the Forest, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Weighing the Honey by Josephine2004, on Flickr

What is it like? A bit like Rock Candy and a bit like a Molasses Puff with the flavor of honey. It melts very slowly in the mouth, though.


Rock Honey by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Oh yeah, and in case you are wondering, like almost everything else, Rock-Paper-Scissors originated in China. It dates back to the Han Dynasty !

What an excellent contribution to LTH. Really loving this.

More than likely, I will never ever get to Yunnan
This may be the best thread I've seen on this board. Amazing pics and stories.

Congrats on your travels and experiences Josephine! Keep them coming!

Thanks for the encouragement, Alan and spanky. All I can say is that these posts write themselves. I feel very fortunate to have such great material to work with, particularly Ray's photographs. The people of Yunnan were very gracious and welcoming to us, and we had the benefit of knowledgeable and fun-loving leaders in Robert and Morrison. We'd never have known about them, though, without our LTH connection, through GAF. Stay tuned for more market photos!

Lijiang: The Simple Beauty of a Farmer's Market

Lijiang's Market is a busy place where people of all ages, from all walks of life, come to attend to their daily needs.

They come alone,


Monk on an Errand, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

or with three generations.


Shopping with Baby, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

They seek affiliation,


Naxi Women Discussing by Josephine2004, on Flickr

or order.


Housewares, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Some take time for a snack,


Fruit Vendor, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

or a nap.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

But most are hard at work, attending to the universal needs to cook and eat.


Vegetable Vendor, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Unloading, Lijiang Marketplace by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Tibetan Woman and Naxi Basket by Josephine2004, on Flickr

These needs are met through labor and the everyday miracle of vegetables.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Mighty Big Radishes, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The need for flavor as fundamental as the need for calories.


Pepper Grinder, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Or the need for beauty.


Herbs and Roots for Sale, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Water Vegetable for Pickling, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Spring Greens, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Water Chestnuts by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Chrysanthemum Petals in Bulk by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Ground Pepper by the Scoop, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Potato Chips, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Preserved Eggs, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Tamarind Pods by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Basket of Greens, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Saffron? by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Basket of Peppers, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Palm Sugar Domes, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Quail Eggs, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In the end, who can say what feeds us?

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: Ancient Ecological Mutton Hotpot The Movie

FADE-IN:

EXT. OUTSKIRTS OF LIJIANG - DUSK

[CUE THEME BY ENNIO MORRICONE]

A desolate stretch of land, deserted except for an OLD MAN picking up bricks. A boxy yellow bus drives up to a sloping grey brick building at the edge of the dusty expanse and discharges a rumpled crew of travelers. They make their way, stiffly, toward a slightly slumped two-story building of grey brick.


Sandy Expanse, Old Man by Josephine2004, on Flickr

[THEME FADES OUT]

The travelers look up and pause to read the sign. They hesitate slightly, looking at each other.


? by Josephine2004, on Flickr

ROBERT
(dryly, looking up at the sign over the door.)
This is the place.

MORRIE
(gleefully)
The place Richard told us about. He loves it!

RAY
(grinning, with rising tone for emphasis)
“Ancient Ecological Mutton Hotpot Restaurant!”

JOSEPHINE
(anxious and incredulous)
Oh My God.


The group, including HANNAH, the lovely young guide, and MR. BAI, the gruff driver, enter the building.

INT. BAR-RESTAURANT – EVENING


Saloon Interior, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The interior is empty of customers. THE PROPRIETOR, a carefully dressed middle-aged woman stands behind the bar. A MIDDLE-AGED MAN sits smoking alone at one of the few tables. YOUNG WOMAN IN SMOCK stands by, her downcast eyes sneaking a peek at the travelers. Robert and Hannah approach the bar and engage The Proprietor in low tones. Some negotiation is taking place. Morrie, Josephine and Ray wait, exchanging glances. Mr. Bai lights a cigarette and takes a seat.

JOSEPHINE
(anxiously)
I wonder what they mean by ecological. Organic?

MORRIE
(gleefully, reflecting)
Maybe. . . “from the farm” – “free-range.”

JOSEPHINE
(anxiously)
It's the "Ancient" part that has me worried. . . "

RAY
(grinning, with relish)
Oh boy.

ROBERT
(dryly)
They want us upstairs, OK? For a private room. Hannah!


INT. PASSAGEWAY AT FOOT OF STAIRS - DARK

The travelers are led from the bar toward the stairs by Young Woman in Smock, followed by Robert, and Hannah. As these three climbs ahead of them, Morrie, Josephine and Ray look into the restaurant’s sooty kitchen. Eyes widening, they exchange glances.


The Kitchen by Josephine2004, on Flickr

INT. HALLWAY AT TOP OF STAIRS - DIM

[SILENCE, THEN WHISTLING WIND, ECHOING FOOTSTEPS]

Reaching the top of the stairs, still led by YOUNG WOMAN IN SMOCK, the travelers encounter (to the left) a long, narrow, dimly lit hallway. To their right, a haphazardly fashioned barrier of scrap wood blocks the hallway. Windows on one side are dusty. Ray turns to look out the window. He looks at what must have been a city block, now barren, awaiting an uncertain fate . . . the OLD MAN walks away, making slow progress under his burden of bricks.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


No Exit by Josephine2004, on Flickr

INT. HALLWAY/PRIVATE DINING ROOM - DARK

Near the end of the long hallway, Young Woman in Smock turns, leading the travelers into a dark room with a round table set for six. In the center of the table sits an electric hotpot burner. Young Woman in Smock turns on the lights and gestures for the travelers to sit.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

FADE OUT.

FADE IN:

[ROAR OF BUBBLING LIQUID, CLATTER OF DISHES, CHOPSTICKS]

A bubbling hotpot. Underneath it, a red-hot element. Hands reach over the pot, grasping ingredients with chopsticks. There is a general buzz, indistinct chatter and laughter.


Hotpot Contraption by Josephine2004, on Flickr

JOSEPHINE
(anxiously)
What have we here?


Hotpot Seasonings by Josephine2004, on Flickr

ROBERT
(dryly)
Those are the seasonings. Dried dates, spring onion, those split pods are --

JOSEPHINE
(interrupting, anxious, pressured)
--But what is that pale thing? It looks like a tube.

MORRIE
(gleefully)
Here. Let’s see what else I can find.

Morrie reaches for the ladle, fishes around the pot, and withdraws the ladle with new contents.


Assorted Guts by Josephine2004, on Flickr

JOSEPHINE
(eyes widening)
Oh My God.

RAY
(with gusto)
Serve me up there, Morrison!


Variety Meats, Hotpot Style by Josephine2004, on Flickr

ROBERT
(dryly, instructing)
The whole point is to have different textures, different parts of the animal.

HANNAH
(cheerfully)
This is how we like it the Naxi way. With the vegetables. It takes a long time to cook, and you eat slowly, so it is a way that everyone can talk with the family. People come and go. A meal can last for 5 or 6 hours. People say that you can’t gain weight eating hotpot, because it takes so long to eat – and it’s healthy.


Greens for the Hotpot by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Raymond, Morrie, and Robert dig in. Josephine picks another morsel from the boiling pot. It is unlike any of the previous bits, being grey, with rubbery strands. Josephine holds it, pausing. RAY, MORRIE, ROBERT and HANNAH look up from their own dishes.

JOSEPHINE
Oh My God.

RAY
(with gusto)
ALL the parts. Including “The Mustache!”


The Mustache by Josephine2004, on Flickr

All the travelers break into laughter. Morrie and Ray grab for their cameras and snap photos.

RAY
(interrupting the uproar as he spies a bowl across the table)
Hey – what’s that? What about that hot stuff?


Salty Tofu with Hot Pepper Paste by Josephine2004, on Flickr

HANNAH
(cheerfully, picking up chopsticks and a small bowl)
This is the Naxi way with hotpot. We add the salty tofu. It’s like stinky tofu, but older. We put pepper with it and mix it with the green onion. Like this; make a sauce and then dip the meat. Or mix it into the broth.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

JOSEPHINE
(gingerly, tasting the mixture, then smiling broadly, exclaiming with relief)
Blue Cheese! It tastes just like blue cheese with Tabasco. I can eat anything with blue cheese on it!

[CUE THEME BY ENNIO MORRICONE]

FADE TO BLACK.

THE END.

What will the critics say about Ancient Ecological Mutton Hotpot The Movie? Will they share the views of Quentin Tarantino, who pronounced it a masterpiece of the genre, the best western of all time? Or will they, like Renata Adler of the NYTimes pronounce it “. . .expensive, pious, and repellent. . .” and consign it to the scrap heap of cliché-ridden B-movies to languish in obscurity? You be the judge.

The Good:
Trying an authentic local dish recommended by an insider in a place off the beaten path.
Hannah's instruction in the art of Naxi hotpot .
Salty Tofu – aka Funky Stinky Tofu, with its crust of red pepper, a doppelganger for blue cheese and hot sauce. Bring on the wings!

The Bad:
The screenplay. The cardboard characterizations. The overacting.

The Ugly:
No way around it. The kitchen looked like something out of the Middle Ages.

And The Mustache. Oh, that Mustache! I must report that over the following days, my system hosted a violent rampage worthy of a spaghetti western. Naturally, I blame The Mustache, though it might have been the fiddleheads.

Fortunately, the good guys prevailed. I lived to eat another day.

This audience member breaks into wild applause!

And *this* audience member jumps to his feet, applauding wildly, shouting "Hen hao!" at the top of his voice!



When I was teaching at Wuhan University, my students would bring me every seminar a full thermos of good, hot, Yunnan coffee. And, when we could get it, I bought the wonderful ham. Pricey, typically unavailable (this was '86, after all!), but superb stuff, esp. to cook with.

Keep up the marvelous show Josephine, I hope it goes on and on.

Geo

Josephine wrote:
Salty Tofu with Hot Pepper Paste by Josephine2004, on Flickr

JOSEPHINE
(gingerly, tasting the mixture, then smiling broadly, exclaiming with relief)
Blue Cheese! It tastes just like blue cheese with Tabasco. I can eat anything with blue cheese on it!

Interesting! dou fu "ru" claimed as a Naxi way of hotpotting... Last night, I just read a recipe of a "Taiwanese" style pale "milk" broth personal hotpot (in a Taiwanese-American zine, natch) that used "豆腐乳" in broth base. BTW, I'm pretty certain you can get that in Chinatown, Chicago, as a Taiwanese blogger apparently cooked a dish using the ingredient circa 2011. The taste should be similar, and often, it's simply served as an accompaniment to breakfast congee. I can imagine it being the next cheap ingredient used in the new "umami" burger. It is, one of my favorite putrid things in the whole world, but I couldn't possibly put it on my burger ala blue cheese.

Thank you for this, what a visual treat. Anyone want to invest in a foodie/travel website? I could look at things like this all day....

Thanks, Mary and Geo. I have much more in the pipeline.

And, funholiday girl, that's an idea, but I think we have that travel thing going here, though not everyone is interested in things that do not directly represent food. Me, I enjoy a bit of context so I can understand what I am eating and why I am eating it here and now. That said, there are some things we could do to make the travel content (and all of the more substantive content) more accessible.

Although I am behind on my ambition to organize it, I think that it would be helpful to organize more index threads so people can browse the travel posts related to places they are planning to visit. Over time, interesting posts fall to the bottom of the queue and are no longer read, since people who are not searching for them explicitly never see them. I'd love to casually run across some of the terrific posts that have languished unread for awhile. Some of these include very interesting photos.

Also - I'd like for some people who post regularly to make the small effort it takes to add pictures to their posts. Granted, there is less of an incentive to do this while the site, in its original form, does not have any visual content to draw you in. However, hopefully this will be remedied eventually when the new format is launched.

With a smartphone, (which I acknowledge, not everyone uses) it is very very very easy to add pictures, even for a Card-Carrying Luddite like me ( I am not being falsely modest here - you can ask my very patient tech-savvy friends). All you have to do is set up a Flickr account (3 minutes), take the photo on your phone(one tap of the finger), and email it to your Flickr page (two taps of your finger). The process to link to a post is now simplified by Flickr, whereas it was a pain in the past. All you have to do is to open the photo (one tap) and copy the address(one tap), which you add directly to your post (one tap)! No need for a special code to embed the photo in the post. If you can use this website, you can post a photo! Total time expended: A one time investment of a few minutes, and 6 taps of the finger.

Geo wrote:When I was teaching at Wuhan University, my students would bring me every seminar a full thermos of good, hot, Yunnan coffee. And, when we could get it, I bought the wonderful ham.

A recent issue of China Daily (3/11/2013) had a feature about coffee growing in Yunnan and the rise in demand for coffee in China. Apparently Nestle began working in the 1980's to develop the local coffee industry in the city synonymous with tea, Pu'er. Pu'er is now the coffee capital of China, with 43,300 hectares of coffee planted in 2012. This has led to prosperity for some farmers, as 80% of Yunnan's coffee is exported. Still, coffee as fashion and as cafe experience is taking off in China and is expected to grow. Starbucks began purchasing Yunnan coffee in 2007, with yearly increases in volume. The Chinese coffee market is projected to reach $2.5 billion by 2017.

Perhaps tellingly, on my most recent trip to China, the question that was posed to me most often in the course of casual conversation (not in a dining situation) was, "Do you prefer coffee or tea to drink?" This was followed by people sharing their impressions of coffee and their preference for tea. I am not so sure that marketers have it right- are they really going to be able to change the preferences of Chinese for tea?

Anyone who has visited Shanghai has seen that Starbucks are ubiquitous, and Illy certainly has a presence, though I have to say I was surprised to see Gloria Jean's, Costa Coffee, and Dunkin Donuts there. Why not Chock Full O' Nuts? And, who knows, Folgers could stage a comeback - Mrs. Olson's Chinese counterpart is out there somewhere. After all, Colonel Sanders' Chinese counterpart is already hawking fried birds in Beijing:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Leave it to Nestle to ruin a good thing. Again according to China Daily, they are introducing an instant coffee named after Pu'er. However, Starbucks has a whole bean Yunnan coffee: "South of the Clouds" Blend, which features a phoenix on the label. As a market for Nestle, China is now its 5th biggest coffee consumer. We'll see what happens with that.

I didn't come up with enough on this trip to write a full post about Yunnan coffee, however, I did drink and purchase some in a coffee store in Lijiang. It is labeled "Peaberry." Here is a picture of some coffee beans in Lijiang Market.


Yunnan Coffee Beans by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Had baggage weight restrictions been no problem, I would have bought this coffee grinder in that same Lijiang shop.


Coffee Grinder in Lijiang Shop by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After tasting Yunnan Ham, I can understand, Geo, being willing to search for it, though I cannot imagine it was scarce to most people- people who raised pigs anyway. All over Yunnan, we saw hams drying under the eaves of peoples' homes. Here, for instance:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I'm wondering, Geo, which cuts of cured pork you might have used. Here are pictured a few. Part of what motivates my question is having purchased a whole pig this past year, and having asked for the butcher to save all of the parts. This resulted in quite a bit of meat that does not exactly qualify as ham, but is not properly bacon or hocks either. I could see it as very fatty ham, similar to some of what we had stir-fried in dishes in Yunnan.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I'll post another, grislier photo in the Yunnan Butchers thread.

TonyC wrote:Interesting! dou fu "ru" claimed as a Naxi way of hotpotting... Last night, I just read a recipe of a "Taiwanese" style pale "milk" broth personal hotpot (in a Taiwanese-American zine, natch) that used "豆腐乳" in broth base. BTW, I'm pretty certain you can get that in Chinatown, Chicago, as a Taiwanese blogger apparently cooked a dish using the ingredient circa 2011. The taste should be similar, and often, it's simply served as an accompaniment to breakfast congee. I can imagine it being the next cheap ingredient used in the new "umami" burger. It is, one of my favorite putrid things in the whole world, but I couldn't possibly put it on my burger ala blue cheese.

TonyC- Very Interesting about do fu ru- I couldn't make much of the link, since it's only partly in English, but the possibilities are intriguing. If not a do fu ru burger, perhaps macaroni and do fu ru?

I am guessing that fermented tofu might be the next big thing. The nice young folks at Rau Om seem to be making a splash with their misozuke tofu. (It's also nice to see that they participate in their fans' favorite forum). I read about misozuke tofu somewhere - perhaps the NYT - as an addition to the cheese board. I think it was recommended as a cider pairing. I sometimes host a vegan friend and am always looking for interesting things to dial up the experience. After tasting the Naxi salty tofu, I'm totally convinced of its bonafides as a cheese course and would buy it for myself. There is also a Gluten Free recipe here - developed with the participation of the Rau Om people. With careful attention to salt and keeping wetness at bay, there could be interesting results. In the meantime, I am going to check out some of the bottled options for fermented tofu in hot chile oil at my local Olive Market - St. Louis' version of an Asian superstore.

Dali: Bai Arts, Rice Cakes, Milk Fans and Babas


Bai Woman on Lake Erhai, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The Bai people, literally, the “White” people, number 2 million individuals living mostly in the area around Dali, Yunnan, near Er Lake (Chinese: 洱海, Erhai). The Bai revere the color white, believing it to represent dignity, a tradition that is reflected in their clothing and their architecture. The connection to Lake Er and its nearby rivers means a steady supply of fish for the Bai table.

We were fortunate to stay in the Yang Jia Yuan, a traditional Bai stone courtyard complex that is home to the Linden Centre of Xizhou, near Dali. (My chief source for the material on Bai culture is their informative website.) Restored by the Linden family in a partnership with Chinese cultural authorities, the Yang Jia Yuan was historically the home of the Yang family. The home has three formal courtyards and three “sky wells” – paved terraces with water wells - as well as secondary courtyards. The Linden Centre is set in a village among fields that yield canola in the early summer and rice in the late fall.


Bai Farmer in Canola Field, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Not surprisingly, Bai homes are painted white with a lime-based paint. One feature of Bai architecture is the “picture wall.” The use of white paint on the picture wall serves a practical purpose as well as an aesthetic one: to reflect light and heat into the central courtyard. Typical decoration includes slabs of white marble whose veins suggest landscape scenes, such as this one from the Yang Jia Yuan:


Picture Wall, Yang Jia Yuan, Xizhou by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The entrances of Bai homes also receive special attention; they signal the status of the family through artwork that communicates themes of harmony and prosperity. Here, a tiled roof with curved ends and carved wooden eaves sit above a painting depicting two red-breasted birds, one above the other on a branch. Could the two birds represent the successful partnership of a father and son?


Carved Eaves, Yang Jia Yuan, Xizhou by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The interiors of traditional homes feature two-story galleries. Rooms brightened by windows face outward toward the courtyard. Here is a view of the walkway outside our room in the Yang Jia Yuan:


Gallery, Linden Centre, Xizhou by Josephine2004, on Flickr

According to the Linden Centre website, "The rooms of honor, facing the picture wall, are all entered via six carved wood door panels. These panels, which often included patterns of flowers, birds and local characters, were often the source of greatest pride for the Bai owner. The Linden Centre’s door panels have all survived unscathed due to the fact that the military was based in the complex; thankfully our building was off-limits to vandals, thieves, and Red Guards."

Fabric arts, particularly batik dyeing and embroidery are a prominent tradition among the Bai. This collection of mostly antique embroidery was on display at the Linden Centre, where support of traditional crafts is part of the mission of the enterprise:


Carpet of Bai Embroidery by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Bai Embroidery by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Embroidery is also a feature of everyday clothing. Most younger Bai women wear a crown embroidered with camelias. The crown's crescent shape represents a flower in the wind and the moon on a snowy evening. A white fringe tops the crown and a tail of white trails down the back.


Embroidering in Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Older Bai women seem to favor what I am going to call the "church hat," a wide-brimmed hat woven of fine straw. This is worn on top of a scarf that has a trailing white tail. Some older women also wear a blue or purple Communist-era cap, particularly while at work. Both styles are seen on the women embroidering in this photograph:


Bai Women Embroidering by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Traditional ways persist, but they seem only to feed the appetite for embroidered fabrics, here being made by machine:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The Bai are also known for their metalwork. Hotpots and tea kettles seem to be the most popular items.


Hotpots, Lijiang Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Hotpots, Lijiang Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Silver craft is also practiced. Here is a selection of teapots from a shop in Lijiang:


Silver Shop, Lijiang by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Three Bai Foods: Er Kuai, Dengshuan Rushan, and Xizhou Baba

The best known Bai specialties seem to arise out of Bai craftsmanship and - perhaps - an affinity for white things. The first of these is Er Kuai 饵块 (pinyin ěrkuài) a highly refined and compressed rice cake.


Er Kuai (Rice Cakes) by Josephine2004, on Flickr

There's certainly an artisanal quality to the rice cake maker's tools:


Noodle Maker's Tools by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Noodle Maker's Shop with Necessities by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This is, however, a shop doing some high volume production.


Flour for Noodles by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We watched the noodle makers at work. The first step involves putting the rice flour into a machine to mix the dough.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Dough is then extracted, kneaded, weighed and cut. I'd say that still qualifies as handmade.


Making Rice Cakes by Josephine2004, on Flickr

They made some really beautiful noodles, too.


Rice Noodles, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Dengchuan Rushan 邓川乳扇, or Dengchuan Milk Fan really had me stumped. We saw this basket in the Dali Market. To me, its uniformity and shine made me think I was looking at a basket of rolled plastic bags, ready to be grasped by their ends and deployed as containers. Not so. This was an example of a Bai cows' milk cheese made in Dengshuan, a town at the north end of Lake Er.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

In fact, we had already sampled this cheese - deep fried - while visiting Kunming:


Fried Dengshuan Cheese by Josephine2004, on Flickr

What was not clear was how and why the cheese is formed in this unusual fashion. I was told that the thinness and dryness of the Dengshuan cheese allows it to puff up when fried. Fair enough, but what is the method that stretches it? I only yesterdat discovered the answer to my question - through the magic of the internet, of course. A woman who took one of the excursions offered by the Linden Centre blogged about it here. It is definitely worth opening the link to see the photos of the traditional way of stretching and rolling the cheese over sticks.

I also found an account of making Dengshuan milk fan on this website:

"Although tasteful, milk fan is not complicated to make. The making process is: first ferment the milk into acidophilus milk and heat it in a boiler to a temperature of 70 to 80 degrees Celsius; then add some fresh milk and stir it with a wooden spoon. The acidophilus milk and the fresh milk flocculate and then agglomerate. Take the agglomerate out, knead it and then pull it into a thin piece that is about 20 centimeters long and 8 centimeters wide. Last, pull the two ends of the piece a little thinner and longer, and dry it with the two ends rolled around two slender bamboo rods. The distance between the two rods is about 16 to 17 centimeters and there can be more than 10 milks fan drying on them. After drying, the two-layer milk fans can be loosened and then taken off . . . Milk fans can be stored for a long time and are portable. The Bai people often entertain their guests with a dish prepared with milk fans, or give it to people as presents."

Milk fan is "not complicated to make" you say? I say milk fan pulling makes knitting (a skill I will never, ever, ever master) look like a cinch.

The same website also writes about ways that milk fans are prepared:

"Cook eggs with fresh milk and put some milk fans and rock candy, and then you have what is called "fresh milk, egg, rock candy, milk fans." If you cook eggs with brown sugar and milk fans, you will have milk fan poached eggs. You can also cook other dishes with milk fans, such as "fried milk fan chips," "braised sanxian (three kinds of fresh food) milk fans," "deep-fried milk fans," and "steamed stuffed bun with milk fan inside," and many others. To conclude, milk fans are sweet when eaten raw, fragrant and spicy when fried, soft and tasteful when cooked, refreshing when steamed, and excessively aromatic when baked with some salt. Whichever cooking method you take, milk fans are always palatable and have a strong aftertaste."

I would agree that milk fans are "fragrant and spicy when fried," as they have some of the nutty, salty dry quality of a Manchego or a Parmagiana. They are not as crunchy as a Cheetoh, being firmer, with more pull when you bite down. I would have enjoyed trying some of the other milk fan dishes, though I cannot imagine what the texture of a milk-egg-rock candy dish might be. We did find some support for the notion that this is a popular dish, as rock candy was available by the slab in Dali's central market, along with palm sugar.


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Palm Sugar, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Xizhou Baba 喜洲: Photos from Dali Market

The town of Xizhou is known for baba, a stuffed bread baked in the open air in charcoal ovens. Eaten as a snack, this bread is sold on the streets of Xizhou, where a group of bakers vie for customers. These photos were taken at the Dali Morning Market. The baking tradition reportedly goes back eight centuries, and it is easy to imagine that the ovens themselves go back just about as far, though the electric fans that fan them appear to have replace earlier methods.


Street Oven, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Street Oven with Fan, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The baba's wheat flour dough is made with both yeast and baking powder and a bit of salt. In a well-floured table with high sides made specially for forming breads, risen dough is slathered with lard. It is then rolled, cut, and formed into a circles about 6 inches across. For the savory baba, chopped spring onion is added, and the dough is rolled again. Chopped pork is added and the dough is rolled yet again, slashed, and pressed into a circle. Here is a baba baker at work in the Dali Market. At her right on the work table are sweet baba fillings of red bean paste and sesame paste.


Adding Spring Onion to Xizhou Baba, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Putting Baba into Oven by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Prepared Baba, Ready to Bake by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The bottom surface of the oven pan is oiled, and then the baker eases the prepared babas down onto the hot surface.

At this point, the care of the baba is turned over to the baker. He adjusts the lid and places hot charcoal on top of the lid. He deploys the fan to keep the coals at the right temperature.


Street Oven, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Midway through baking, the bread is turned and anointed with oil. Some sources say that the traditional recipe involves sesame oil, but I think in this case, the oil used was canola oil.


Anointing the Bread by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Taking Baba from Oven, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Baker Removing Baba from Oven by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Xizhou Baba, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Baker Cutting Xizhou Baba by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

These babas (both sweet and savory) rank among the best things I have ever eaten. Flaky and rich, with all the best properties of pastry, bread and pizza combined. I hope the recipe I found (from Chef Yang of the Linden Center, written in English and adapted by Janice Thomas of Ellison Bay, Wisconsin can at least approximate the real thing. For the oven, I'll ask here for your suggestions.

One more photo of those babas. Because you can't have too much of a good thing!


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

These keep getting more beautiful!

Fabulous photos. What an amazing trip. I'm so jealous.

I was interested to note that in the Tibetan part of Yunnan, there were a few Mongolian elements. Because Mongolians are Tibetan Buddhists, I was not surprised to see Tibetan architecture and elements in Mongolia, but I was surprised to see Mongolian elements in Yunnan, most specifically, the location of preparing the cheese blintzes, which, with its red roof poles and wooden framework look just like the inside of a Mongolian ger, and then the image of Genghis Khan on the wine skin.

The photo of the outdoor pool table made me smile, too. One sees so many of those in Asia -- always outdoors -- usually in dreadful shape -- and usually in use.

Thanks for sharing -- your images are beautiful and I feel that I've gotten a wonderful tour of the region. Simply splendid.

Thanks, Cynthia and LikestoEatout! I'm so glad that you are enjoying this thread. I must say that is has been a pleasure to write it - especially the part that reminds me of all the wonderful tastes.

Cynthia-- regarding the Mongolian elements- I was interested to learn that the image on the wineskin is Genghis Khan. The great thing about posting is that one learns a lot about what one has seen and tasted through the comments of readers.

As for the Mongolian elements - the yurt was definitely a recent import- by the Banyan Tree Hotel chain. So, that element, at least, is out-of-place. However, the Mongols were dominant in Yunnan before 1385, when the MIng Dynasty took over (according to Wikipedia). Perhaps you noticed in the post about traditional Naxi music that the legend about its origins is that Kublai Khan gave instruments, scores and musicians from his entourage to a Naxi chief who had helped him with a difficult river crossing. Those Mongols did get around.

I will keep my eyes open for more pool tables!

Next up: Cormorant Fishing and the Heavenly Spring

Josephine wrote:Thanks, Cynthia and LikestoEatout! I'm so glad that you are enjoying this thread. I must say that is has been a pleasure to write it - especially the part that reminds me of all the wonderful tastes.

Cynthia-- regarding the Mongolian elements- I was interested to learn that the image on the wineskin is Genghis Khan. The great thing about posting is that one learns a lot about what one has seen and tasted through the comments of readers.

As for the Mongolian elements - the yurt was definitely a recent import- by the Banyan Tree Hotel chain. So, that element, at least, is out-of-place. However, the Mongols were dominant in Yunnan before 1385, when the MIng Dynasty took over (according to Wikipedia). Perhaps you noticed in the post about traditional Naxi music that the legend about its origins is that Kublai Khan gave instruments, scores and musicians from his entourage to a Naxi chief who had helped him with a difficult river crossing. Those Mongols did get around.

I will keep my eyes open for more pool tables!

Next up: Cormorant Fishing and the Heavenly Spring

The Ming Dynasty took over from the Yuan Dynasty -- and the Yuan Dynasty was the Mongol rule of China. It was the Mongols who moved the capital of China to Beijing. When Marco Polo went to China, it was with Kublai Khan, Genghis Khan's grandson, that he met. It was, in fact, the Pax Mongolica created by the massive Mongolian Empire that permitted Marco Polo to travel to China. As for getting around -- at its height, the Mongolian Empire controlled everything from the Pacific Ocean to the Danube River -- 12 million square miles. They had a tremendous impact, introducing to Europe everything from meat-filled dumplings to using a bow with stringed instruments.

As for the yurt -- that's actually the Russian word for the round felt tent built by the Mongols, which came into use when the Soviet Union controlled Mongolia. They have now switched back to using the Mongol word, ger (pronounced kind of like gair) in Mongolia.

Fascinating to know about the Naxi music -- I missed that note (a daunting amount of fascinating data in your posts) -- thanks for pointing it out. I love learning about the interrelations of cultures throughout history.

Again, thanks for the posts.

Cormorant Fishing and the Heavenly Spring


Morning on Lake Er, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Er Lake is the second largest alpine lake in China, situated at more than six thousand feet above sea level near the city of Dali. Shaped like a human ear, Lake Er is twenty-five miles long. Its waters empty downstream via the Yangbi River into the Mekong. The history of Er Lake and the Bai People is tied to the ascendancy of the Nanzhao Kingdom, a confederation of five tribes that was a thorn in the side of the Tang Dynasty during the first millenium CE. The lake is said to have been a game preserve for the Nanzhao rulers. Hunting appears to be a thing of the past around Lake Er. Fishing, on the other hand, is a going concern. We climbed into this Bai woman's boat to watch a cormorant fisherman in pursuit of the lake's plentiful carp.


Bai Woman Rowing, Lake Erhai by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Cormorant fishing is a traditional practice that persists only as a performance for tourists. Today, commercial fishermen on Lake Er use nets. Still, it was easy to imagine that a fisherman working the old-fashioned way could catch enough fish to feed a large family. Here is how it works:

First, the cormorants perch on the boat until the fisherman finds a promising spot.


Ready to Fish, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The cormorants' necks are tied (gently, we were assured) so that they cannot swallow the fish they catch whole.


Fisherman with Cormorant, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The fisherman urges the birds into the water. The birds seem eager to comply and do not attempt to escape. The fisherman then takes up a long pole with an attached net.


Cormorant Fishing, Lake Er by Josephine2004, on Flickr

After the cormorants catch a fish, the fisherman lifts the birds onto his net and takes the fish. He then rewards the cormorants with a small tidbit and poses for the cameras.


Cormorants with Fish, Lake Er by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Cormorants with Fish, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We waited not even a few moments for a repeat performance. The cormorants were highly successful. Not quite shooting fish in a barrel, but close enough.


Cormorant Fisherman, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here are some of the fish vendors we saw at the market in Dali:


Fish For Sale, Dali, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Lake Er is also the likely source for these snails,


Snails, Er Lake, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

and for these Lake Er water weeds,(botanical name: Otteliaacuminata.) The water weeds have a slimy exterior and a crunchy interior with an earthy taste somewhat like asparagus.


Lake Er Greens, Dali by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We had lunch that afternoon at a restaurant situated around the Heavenly Spring. More than just a water feature, the spring dates back more than a thousand years. According to legend, the spring emerged in a farmer's courtyard during the Nanzhou Kingdom. Its appearance during a time of drought was thought to be a miracle in response to prayers for rain. The spring continues to bestow good fortune on the community by bringing celebrities such as high Party officials to eat at the restaurant.


Kneeling by the Heavenly Spring by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We noticed that a spring comes in handy for all sorts of things - cooling a bucket of peeled potatoes, for instance.


Potatoes Cooling in Heavenly Spring by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Courtyard Table, Heavenly Spring Restaurant, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The courtyard might have been a pleasant place to eat, but we were ushered in to the rooms of honor overlooking the courtyard. Upthread, I posted about the Bai tradition of situating the most important rooms of the home along the courtyard behind elaborately carved doors. Here is an example of such a door:


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Lunch began with a cold dish of sliced bean tofu and spicy toppings. Some Szechuan peppercorns added interest:


Bean Tofu with Spicy Condiments by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Celtuce (aka stem lettuce) made yet another appearance, this time with bits of Yunnan ham.


Sauteed Celtuce with Yunnan Ham by Josephine2004, on Flickr

We saw celtuce at the Dali Market as well:


Celtuce, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

This dish of white beans with garlic and hot pepper had a texture that was not at all mushy, in spite of the skins being shed.


White Beans with Hot Pepper by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here is a display of beans, grains and spices from the market in Dali. Though we saw kidney beans in the market, we never ate them in a dish. Perhaps they are only used for desserts.


Pulses, Grains and Spices, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

These vegetables stir-fried with eggs were delicious, if not photogenic. I was not certain whether these were the Lake Er water weeds or not. They had the earthy spring quality and crunch of asparagus and an unusual herbal leaf element, combined with the unmistakable brightness of garlic chives.


Greens Stir-fried with Eggs by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Here is a basket of that wild herbal leaf in the Dali Market:


Mountain Herbs, Dali Market by Josephine2004, on Flickr

As elsewhere in Yunnan, we enjoyed cheese, in this case a Bai goat's milk cheese called Rubing or Rushan. It is sauteed until lightly browned and sprinkled with sugar. Rubing has a very mild taste. Its texture is medium-firm and it is somewhat squeaky on the teeth.


Goat Cheese, Dali Style by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Chunks of potato appeared in this chicken dish, something that I thought was interesting, (even if the photo did not turn out well.)


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Jerusalem artichokes stir-fried in this dish were sweet and tender, with a quick pickle of unidentified green stems and peppers. Delicious.


Jerusalem Artichokes with Mixed Pickle by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The most unexpected part of lunch was this Bai way of serving rice, with chunks of potatoes, squash, and bits of bacon, all topped with hot sauce. Pretty, hearty and spicy - this dish had it all. We did not begin to finish it.


Rice, Bai Style by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The meal ended with greens bathing in a very light chicken soup that reminded me of the Heavenly Spring itself.


Simple Chicken Soup with Greens by Josephine2004, on Flickr

As we left the restaurant, we saw this sign. Good advice, as it turned out, because . . .


Untitled by Josephine2004, on Flickr

we looked up and saw this:


Er Lake, Yunnan by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Glorious!

Next up: Dali Market Day and Dinner in a Hui Muslim Home

Your photos continue to be delightful. What an amazing trip.