I have to completely agree with DutchMuse and disagree that the food at Grace is entirely forgettable and not at up to the international standard to which they aspire. I, too, had high hopes and planned my trip last month around my reservation at Grace because I liked my meal at Avenues when Duffy was there. I used to live in Chicago and still fly in 3X weekends/year for season tickets at Next, and I would strongly recommend Schwa, El Ideas, Next or even Topolobampo, Elizabeth and North Pond over Grace.
The discussion in this thread reminded me of my very pleasant back-and-forth with uhockey on chowhound about Grace (he liked it:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/894601) So, in the interest of time, I will just copy and paste the relevant parts of my posts on that thread as the rest was about L20, Tru, Sixteen, Elizabeth and Goosefoot etc.:
It's really just the food that is holding Grace back from greatness, because it does have a beautiful dining room and bathroom, a treasure trove of a wine list, and rigorously trained staff (my own dinner had a few problems with the service at Grace, but I don't care and still tipped fairly well). I admit it is still possible that Grace could get 2 or even 3 michelin stars on the strengths of everything besides the food, as that does seem to happen all over the world. But those kind of 2 and 3 star places tend not to have much of a waiting list or are living off their past glory (I was able to change my early Friday reservation to a later seating just a few days before).
My two guests—both of whom have worked with some famous restaurants—and I all agreed that the dishes were all ok, but there wasn't a single course we would want to eat again, or anything that inspired us to come back anytime soon. Several others have described the flavors as "muted" or "one-note," and I agree. Duffy consistently leans too heavily on a single fancy ingredient (caviar or Matsuzaka on the fauna menu, or preserved carrots or fried sunchoke on the flora). Good ingredients are important, but frankly they need to be cooked and combined somehow to become even more delicious, otherwise you could get the same thing at many other more casual places (this was especially true on the flora menu).
Duffy's basic dish composition seems to be a main attraction with a little bit of fat—though not too much butter/cream—a splash of acidity to cut through it, and then a piece of crunchiness. Nothing wrong with this philosophy—Stephanie Izard does the same thing to much greater, and cheaper, success a few blocks away at the Girl & Goat. Duffy also seems to have a sweet tooth, apparently reflecting his background in pastry, and both the food and wine pairings have a noticeable shot of sugar (I couldn't even finish half of my desert courses, but that just might be my own tastes). At the end of the day, I am looking for flavors that make me say "wow, I want to eat that again," and that just never happened for me (though one of my guests said he did like the piece of Scottish salmon, but that it was not as good as what he had the night before during the kaiseki menu at Katsu).
Grace and Curtis Duffy openly talk about ranking among the 3 michelin star/food worth a trip places like The Fat Duck, Noma, L'Arpege, El Cellar de Can Roca, Da Vittorio, Kitcho etc. Again, Grace wasn't bad and it was a bit better than Avenues, but "corporate constraints" are no longer an excuse and I am not confident that Grace will become a "destination" restaurant.
For me and my friends, I think we would all agree that Grace was technically perfect and the space and courses looked like modern art, just that the taste was nothing special. So I agree with uhockey on "flawless technique," "brought to a completely different level by...the presentation...something visual," and "familiar flavor profile." But for all the fancy looks and impressive knifework or modernist wizardry, I think the taste was just too familiar to the point of boring. I'm not a traditionalist: I really love the modernist wizardry at Alinea and Le Calandre but I do have a problem when the food doesn't taste good or is bland (see also Sant Pau and Moto).
I do remember saying to myself with the sunchoke course, "this tastes just like any fried artichoke in a Jewish restaurant in Rome, or elsewhere." My friend said the Matsuzaka beef was good, but not as good as what he had at several places in Japan or even other famous steakhouses/grills (I thought Asador Etxebarri was better). I could go on and on, but after every course we looked at each other and said "not bad, but just a dressed up version of what I could get at _____ for much cheaper" or "not as good as this other well-regarded place."
I tried but I really couldn't remember what the Maitake, Poached Chestnut, and Cranberry dishes tasted like, as those were uhockey's favorites, and that was just a week after. I do however remember the Hunt menu at Next having much more flavorful mushrooms to start and a tastier carrot dish.
On the other hand, I can pretty much recite to you the entire menu of the first 3 michelin star place I ever tasted, and that was years ago (Yannick Alleno had just won his third star at Le Meurice). Or how the truffle menu at Da Vittorio ruined my expectations for truffles to the point where I never order them if they are more than 5 days old (I picked up and nibbled on the ones at Grace and thought they had lost most of the flavor). That for me is what makes a destination restaurant, not just flawless technical execution in the kitchen and mistake-free service.
If this standard seems too high, maybe, but I've paid a lot more and a lot less than what I spent at Grace, and gotten both much better and worse food. There are a lot of fancy and expensive restaurants all over the world, and I just hope I help people figure out which ones are really worth it. Hell, I think a lot of people would agree that some Michelin 3 star places are much better than others when it comes to the food.
I wasn't going to elaborate above since, again, I can tolerate bad service beyond say, L'Ambroisie's dismissal of anyone of who is not Parisian. But I will note that the service was not perfect. In my case, here's what I can remember about the experience:
• serving one friend a pairing she did not order
• twice refusing to answer questions about the other pairings besides saying it was "some reds"
• having to wait half a hour for our table (I know, not the staff's fault that the earlier table wanted to linger and drink)
• mixing up drink orders and pouring different things into the same glass
• Front of house staff were nice enough, but the actual table servers seemed generally cold (not every place has to be as fun as El Ideas or Schwa, but this was beyond stiff/formal)
To some, these problems might affect their impression of a restaurant, but honestly, I had to try hard to remember the flaws, so my lukewarm review is really just based on the taste of the courses.
Agree to disagree? I really hope Grace does make enough people happy as I really am rooting for Curtis Duffy to take his cuisine to the next level (not just because he had that inspiring life story in the Tribune). Running a top restaurant is expensive and if enough people don't love it, it won't be around in a few years for me to try again.