Chicago's Surprising Mexican Seafood

At one time, LTH and proto-LTH boards had a meteoric fascination with Mexican seafood restaurants, beginning with the Las Islas Marias mini-empire, with a resurgence around Mariscos el Veneno and some noteworthy plates at erstwhile board-favorite and early GNR Taqueria La Oaxaquena.

Momentum behind the quirky but easily recognizable Mexican seafood place - with its butter, saltines, Asian tints, mayo, Maggi, and incongruously pricey items amid the thrifty (like Chinese spots with their big-money lobster, abalone, and shark fin plates) seems to have waned around here. But the Mexican seafood scene has maintained, unabated. This is not based on the "foodie" press, so much as the Mexican sea-side palapa's popularity among shellfish-loving cheapskates of all ethnicities and Mexican men following the traditional alimentary path toward virility through dishes translated as "bed wrecker" and "lady killer."

Oddly enough (to me), these places tend to have strong connections to the old country, whether Nayarit or the Yucatan, and often represent one of 2 or 3 US outposts of a Mexican original. Invariably, the other US branch is somewhere around Atlanta. I have not perceived much of this trend in LA for whatever reason (Norteno immigration, as opposed to more Central Mexican? Though LA has plenty of Oaxacans and other Central Mexicans.) Maybe I missed it in the strip malls of the Valley; probably have.

El Veneno remains a great place, and its friendly rival across Ashland, El Barco, while a step behind in the kitchen is about as fun a spot to waste some time drinking as you might find on that industrial strip between hipsterdom and Wrigleyville.

I was reminded what swell eating these can be by two recent meals at places new to me. Both spots stood out for having pristinely fresh, not overcooked seafood (a common enough problem, including on home turf in Mexico). And both had knockout handmade tortillas - an increasingly common attribute of the Mexican seafood spot.

La Palapa in McKinley Park is an over-the-top architectural parody of the Mexican beachfront shack, complete with a massive plastic Great White, a rare (for Chicago) outdoor-indoor thatch-roofed shanty sitting in a dusty lot by a railroad trestle. I believe this was previously the original Islas Marias, and it keeps to the vaguely Pacific theme (alas, without fish Sarandeado). PIGMON and I had a terrific mid-afternoon snack here, highlighted by an off-the-menu special of shrimp quesadillas on superb hand-patted tortillas with the house "Palapa sauce," which I reckon involves a lot of butter, Maggi, and Huichol and will be familiar to anyone who's dined at Veneno. PIGMON has a photo that I invite him to share. In this application, shellfish and cheese work. Like the Ashland places noted above, La Palapa also features some of the friendliest staff in town.

Riviera Maya is less flamboyant but no less delicious. Plus it delivers to my house. The scene at this small storefront next to El Llano on Elston at Irving is more Atlantic, with one of the better ceviches for the money in Chicago - tiritas a la Maya, marlin strips with lime and thinly sliced jalapeno. I had a couple of basic seafood cocktails, which were great, but the standout was a huge shrimp taco in a handmade tortilla that popped because of the more rustic, coarse yellow masa they use. A steak taco made with the same tortilla would give any of our Mexican steak specialists a run for their money. Good stuff from the kitchen all around, and even the garnishes (limes, lemons, salsas) were supremely fresh and well-handled. These guys know what they are doing and deserve some love in the shadow of the much busier El Llano. At this point, Riviera Maya hardly exists on the Internets with 2 random Yelp mentions.

Both places are BYOB. Live it up.


La Palapa
2000 W 34th St
Chicago IL 60608 (At S Damen Ave)
(773) 376-9620


http://www.lapalapamariscos.com/main/

Riviera Maya
4009 N Elston Ave, Chicago IL60618
(At W Irving Park Rd)
(773) 463-7641

http://rivieramayachicago.com/

I was not familiar with those places. Thanks for posting!

I wonder whatever happened to Jorge Almarez, the chef-owner of the long-closed Flamingo's in Arlington Heights?

Very interesting and exciting stuff. Thanks, Jeff, for the re-con.

=R=

nsxtasy wrote:I wonder whatever happened to Jorge Almarez, the chef-owner of the long-closed Flamingo's in Arlington Heights?

Chef Jorge Almaraz is currently at Taqueria Mi Tierra in Bensenville. He told me that he's slowly bringing the menu around to include more fish and seafood. I've yet to check it out.

=R=

Taqueria Mi Tierra
459 W Irving Park Rd
Bensenville, IL 60106
(630) 595-8830

I've been to La Palapa several times with big groups. It's a wonderful place; very customer oriented and serving some excellent seafood. As noted, you can't miss the place thanks to the giant fiberglass Great White Shark, replete with bloody jaws, perched atop the roof. Great fun and great food. Well worth a stop.

Just spotted Riviera Maya a few weeks ago. It replaced Rapa-Nui; an Empanada house serving a very good variety of Hispanic foods. I need to pay them a visit.

Buddy

Anybody been to Las Islas Marias? I pass the one on North Ave. in Stone Park just about 3 times a week and I've always wanted to stop in.

So, SO many of these joints, and I never remember their names. There is one on 31st not too far East of Home Run Inn, that I frequently pass, and another on Archer, east of Bobak's that I pass a lot as well. I should really make a stronger effort to try these joints. You just never know.

Thanks for posting about La Palapa, Jeff. This is a place that Juan Zaragoza (Sr.) has been routinely praising every time I go into Birrieria Zaragoza. For me, the clear standout order is your off-menu homemade tortilla shrimp quesadilla with integrated "Palapa sauce". Go there and get two of these things as a base order. They're sensational!

I'm in Boston right now getting schooled by the ever-intrepid tatterdemalion with some of that city's culinary delights such as the Sri Lankan restaurant Biryani Park (in nearby Malden) and the Island Creek Oyster Bar (meticulously shucked, pristine oysters - a magnificent raw oyster outing. All I can say is WOW to both!!!)

I'll be sure to post a picture of the quesadilla when I get back.

I tried eating at Riviera Maya, now occupying the former Latin Sandwich Cafe/Rapa Nui spot (RIP despite its flaws). The problem I encountered is that the menu is only sporadically translated into English, and my culinary Spanish is limited to familiar taqueria dishes. Unfortunately the waitstaff wasn't much help, not having a firm enough grasp of English to adequately explain what the items were. So I ended up with a burrito, which was OK but obviously not the focus here. I felt kinda like I was ordering a grilled cheese sandwich at a steakhouse.

Chicago's Best just did a feature on a place in Lawndale called Mariscos el Camaron Pelao, and while I typically take CB's recommendations with a grain of salt, this place does look genuinely interesting. That stuffed pineapple looks fan-friggin-tastic. Youtube clip of the segment at http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... kQoDbP-9Bk

Mariscos el Camaron Pelao
3522 W Odgen Ave
(773) 441-0034

Oh, now we'll have to try La Palapa... we just drove by it the other day on our way to Los Gallos #2 and I also remember seeing it during a number of excursions to Tio Luis. As we passed the other day, we wondered if it was worth checking out because we love Mexican seafood.

We made it to the Islas Marias on Milwaukee back in the day, and for a while had a number of enjoyable visits to El Barco. But the last couple times were sub-par so we haven't been back in 2-3 years. We did try Mariscos Veneno a few weeks ago and loved it in spite of ridiculously poor service. My entree came out, and only 30 min. later did our ceviche appetizer and my wife's entree arrive. We'd ordered basically the same thing, only she got just the plate of langestinos while I got the dinner w/ rice & beans). But we'll go back because we loved those shrimp so...

Ah, the tension between authenticity and ease of ordering. Having unlocked the mysteries of secret Thai, it shouldn't be difficult at all for LTH to explain Mexican seafood at Riviera Maya. Wait. The takeout menu is on the site and (unlike the dine-in glossy thing) translates most dishes with some explanations when the strict translation is not self-explanatory. http://rivieramayachicago.com/uploads/Website_Menu.pdf

Also, I too gave up on El Barco for a while based on sub-par food. I'd say it's time for an uphill alert. I still prefer many dishes at the other places mentioned, but El Barco has booze and, in my experience, great service.

Drover wrote:... now occupying the former Latin Sandwich Cafe/Rapa Nui spot (RIP despite its flaws)...

Oh, man! I did not know this place--the only Chilean restaurant in Chicago--was gone. That's too bad. Anyone know if they might open up somewhere else?

Katie wrote:

Drover wrote:... now occupying the former Latin Sandwich Cafe/Rapa Nui spot (RIP despite its flaws)...

Oh, man! I did not know this place--the only Chilean restaurant in Chicago--was gone. That's too bad. Anyone know if they might open up somewhere else?

Doubtful since the sign in the window before they closed said "Business For Sale." So I'd say they were looking to get out altogether.

Qué lata. ¿Dónde puedo encontrar pebre y empanadas al horno al estilo chileno ahora? Tendré que ensenarme cómo hacerlos a casa.

....in the heated case of El Mercado on Southport (the original business of the Tango Sur family). I'm more a fan of the smaller Porteno jobs. I have heard the people there describe them as both Peruano and Chileno, but the latter seems more correct because they are quite large.

I realize that this wasn't covered in the original post (or any of the subsequent ones), but since it's not really addressed elsewhere on the board (at least my search didn't turn up anything of substance), any experience or thoughts on Campeche on Lincoln (north of Peterson)?

I too tried out La Palapa a month or so ago and enjoyed my lunch there, and really look forward to returning on a hot summer day for a throw-down feast to really test the true potential of the place. IMO mexican seafood restaurants are best enjoyed with 6+ people and huge trays of shellfish. The cheesy straw palapas and gravel "sand" will add some additional excitement!

In winter 2012 I set off on a mission to try to locate any charcoal grilled nayarit style restaurant. I think the resurgence of interest in this thread goes to show I shouldn't have tried mid-winter. So with the renewed interest, I'm going to ask that everyone keep an eye out for charcoal grilled mexican seafood, be it langostinos, pescado zarandeado, octopus, whatever! Please ask your servers if they know if any, ask neighbors, whatever you have to do, it would be a great find. In the spirit of research I also have a list of mariscos places on my list to try this year, and I'll keep the board up to date on any findings.

I have always enjoyed La Cazuela in Rogers Park. They often have a special of baby octopi in hot sauce that is phenomenal (and devastatingly spicy). The tiny octopi explode in your mouth sending searing hot sauce down your throat; the perfect remedy for a Sunday afternoon hangover. The Huachinango al Mojo de Ajo is pretty darn tasty also.


La Cazuela
6922 N. Clark St., Chicago
(773) 338-5425

Thanks for the Cazuela reminder. Used to go there quite a bit when also visiting the sadly closed Dona Lolis for quesadillas. It is very good.

Gracias, JeffB. Los voy a buscar.

PIGMON wrote:I'll be sure to post a picture of the quesadilla when I get back.

Oh yeah...I forgot. I never took a picture!

Sorry.

BuddyRoadhouse wrote:I've been to La Palapa several times with big groups. It's a wonderful place; very customer oriented and serving some excellent seafood. As noted, you can't miss the place thanks to the giant fiberglass Great White Shark, replete with bloody jaws, perched atop the roof. Great fun and great food. Well worth a stop.

Just spotted Riviera Maya a few weeks ago. It replaced Rapa-Nui; an Empanada house serving a very good variety of Hispanic foods. I need to pay them a visit.

Buddy

How about the entertainment during dining, which further enhances the experience. Time for another tour, mid summer.

That's right, I almost forgot about the Mariachi Band on the weekends. They were fun, the food is still the best reason to go. That and the BYO Margaritas we had.

Buddy

My wife, 5-year-old son and I had dinner at Riviera Maya for the first time on Wednesday evening. It is, indeed a family-run p,ace and felt very much like Mexico, as one of the large tables was taken up by friends and family, hanging out and watching bad telenovelas. There were a few other patrons in the small dining room.

We started by sharing a large coctel de camarones (shrimp cocktail) which was filled with shrimp, fresh onions, cilantro and avocado in a tasty tomato juice base. It was a nice rendition of a Mexican classic. My son had the shrimp taco, which was filled with tasty little shrimp. He loved it and ate the whole thing. My wife had the shrimp fajitas and her portion was huge. It was filled with onions, yellow peppers and lots of shrimp. She enjoyed it, but the only downside for her was the amount of cheese melted over it. Definitely a personal preference, but the dish would have been better with less, or even no, cheese. My entree was carne a la tampiquena (grilled skirt steak with a mole enchilada, rice, beans, avocado and salad), a classic Mexican dish. It was quite good. One highlight for me was the handmade tortillas that came with my tampiquena. They were handmade, thick, and very delicious. The salsas that came at the beginning were very fresh and we were even given a small portion of ceviche, which I believe was swordfish. The ceviche was excellent. For dessert, we shared a flan, which was not my favorite version. It was a bit on the firmer, cakier side for me, as I prefer my flan more custardy. My son loved it, though. Our tab came to just over $43 and we were all stuffed. A great, delicious deal for all that fresh food.

I hope that this restaurant gets lots of love, as it is great to have such fresh, authentic mariscos so close to home. A definite thumbs-up. We will be returning.

Riviera Maya
4009 N. Elston
Chicago

A friend of mine who works not far from The Thatched Roof place on Damen
-La Palapa-always likes to share "his" Mexican Seafood place w/ those unfamiliar w/ the hood
and the laid back vibe of La Palpa.
Equally, I am always quick to suggest El Abuelo y Yo-
a much better Mexican seafood restaurant that I posted about back in 2009-
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11921&hilit=Mi+abuelo+y+yo

SOLEY based on one key factor- IMHO- The Consommé! The depth of flavor in this "gratis" cup-o-YUMM,
along with the wonderful bits of whole shrimp-(eyeballs intact) are to my pallete a key culinary indicator
of what's to follow- from the kitchen.
I could eat- just the Consommé alone @ El Abuelo y Yo- and be sated.....
but no- there's much more to try here.

So- if Mexican Seafood's been on your mind- bring a sixpack of Negro Modelo along to El Abuelo y Yo
on Kedzie @ 38th- beneath the watchful gaze of a Chicago Police Dept.Blue Light camera special-
(that's to keep ya safe!)
In case you forget your own Alcohol-it's BYOB- there is a small store, (ltd. selection) across the street.
Note> Order the Cerviche Tostado w/The Baby Shrimp- and The Empanadas de Camarone- & you will walk out smiling.

El Abuelo y Yo
3752 S Kedzie
Chicago, IL 60632

We took the folks out- for a spin @ Riviera Maya on Elston last weekend.
The Brasil vs Espana soccer game seemed to be of more interest than a 4top of New Customers-
but- whatever.
The waitress brought out some salsa(s) and chips- the chips tasted kinda stale- not very freshly made.
Their orange salsa- not really Habenero- but as almost as hot, was good, and rich in flavor- and so was their Salsa Verde
(although- I woulda appreciated the Tomatillos been roasted-off, prior to being blended.)

We ordered some dishes that included the cerviche tostado which was flavorful and enjoyed by all who shared in it.
Sadly- I can't say the same about The Shrimp Empanadas.
4 small empanadas were on the plate- alone- with out a garnish- or a side salad.
They were not too shrimpy- rather kinda "skimpy-on-the-shrimpy"....and the Masa left little to write home about.
Bummer.

The Siete Mares Soup-
sure looked good- but I felt the soul of the soup- the broth-
was lacking depth and flavor......the seafood was well cooked- not overdone...but no "Alma" to the broth.

One of my dining companions chose the salad option- which was called a womans name-


Again- sure "looked" good- but - although a wonderful presentation- and a very intersting list of elements in this salad-
quite unique for a Mexican Seafood "joint".....
I found her salad very uninspiring in total.

Let's say- I can mark this off my list- if I'm in that area craving seafood....
I'll go to - SMOQUE!

For my tastes- I'd rather drive to Kedzie @ 38th- and ask for "Un otro vasso de Consumme- por favor"
(another glass of that yummious Shrimp Consume please!!) enjoy some crispy tostados- get some cerviche- enjoy the
sublimely wonderful Shrimp filled Empanadas- and- ask for 2nds of the complimentary Shrimp Consume!
@ El Abuelo y Yo!
38th & Kedzie.

The other places should all shut down!

Suffice to say, others' experiences have differed. And I don't think value is really ever in doubt with Mexican seafooders, even if some are more insanely cheap than others.

What are the realistic chances of one getting truly fresh (not frozen, or one week old) shrimp and seafood at a small Mexican restaurant in Chicago?

sandman wrote:What are the realistic chances of one getting truly fresh (not frozen, or one week old) shrimp and seafood at a small Mexican restaurant in Chicago?

About the same as your chances would be of winning the next Powerball lottery. That said, I think El Barco does a pretty ok job.

Evil Ronnie wrote:

sandman wrote:What are the realistic chances of one getting truly fresh (not frozen, or one week old) shrimp and seafood at a small Mexican restaurant in Chicago?

About the same as your chances would be of winning the next Powerball lottery.

the only place I really felt the seafood was always fresh was at Flamingos in Mount Prospect (closed).