If you're a fan of Japanese food, you can't help but be excited by developments in Chicago in the last several months. First, the opening of Sumi Robata Bar and now Juno. Juno has only been open for a few weeks, but I've already been twice and think it is an outstanding addition to the Chicago Japanese food scene, and in my opinion stands head and shoulders above all other Chicago sushi options, with the exception of Katsu. In fact, even if you're not a sushi fan, Juno will definitely please.
But with respect to their nigiri offerings, I wouldn't say there is anything pedestrian about them, even if there are currently no offerings I would describe as exotic. I don't really even understand this criticism when comparing Juno with Macku since Macku doesn't have more exotic fish on the menu. Most importantly though with respect to Juno, the preparation and cuts of fish are first rate - precisely cut, not stringy, beautifully presented and minimally seasoned. The aji was one of the stars of the show for me, delicious and artfully presented in a glass bowl, with the whole fish as a backdrop. The ikura, uni and Hawaiian blue prawn wre likewise stunning and must orders, but really, all of the nigiri I tried was quite good. My lone complaint concerns temperature of some of the nigiri offerings - the chef's choice sashimi is stunning in presentation (in a beautiful glass bowl), but many of the pieces get too cold placed atop ice, even if not placed directly upon the ice. They need to work this out. The uni was also delivered just a little bit too cold for my liking on both visits, so I let it warm up a bit on my second visit. But it is a generous serving and some of the very best uni you will ever taste. One more small concern is that although I've learned to appreciate the beauty and intricacy of tamago, the pictures Juno has posted on its Facebook page have not convinced me that they share the same passion when it comes to tamago. I would hope that's one of their next big leaps.
Aside from the nigiri, there are many other excellent raw choices. One of my favorites was the charcoal handroll with tuna (they also offer lobster). Two pieces of nori, a miniature charcoal grill to lightly heat the nori, and a small dish of delicious spicy tuna, sufficient to fill two rolls. Juno also offers what they call smoked sashimi - I've tried the tuna and hamachi - which is delivered on a glass-domed platter, filled with smoke. When the dome is lifted, smoke perfumes the air and leaves some of its scent with the fish and accompaniments. I thought both the tuna and hamachi were very good.
Juno also offers both east and west coast oysters, but I haven't tried any on my two visits. And I've only tried one maki, which featured both unagi and soft shell crab, and while I enjoyed it, I can't say it wowed me. The same goes for the shrimp shooter I tried - respectable but the shrimp was a bit hidden among the ingredients. I also tried one of the few non-Japanese offerings, the pea soup with crispy pork, mint and preserved lemon, and it was outstanding - spring peas in all of their glory.
Back to the Japanese portion of the menu, another excellent choice is the lobster chawanmushi, which features plenty of lobster and crab, along with dashi and shiitake. I wouldn't go so far as to compare this version to the brilliant chawanmushi served at Katsu, but it was still terrific, with a silky smooth custard. There was also an amazing roast halibut, with a beautiful light crust and cooked as perfectly as I've ever had halibut cooked.
Finally, on my last visit we shared the vegetable ramen, and it was easily the best vegetable ramen I've ever tasted, and just a terrific bowl of ramen regardless. The broth was a mushroom-leek broth and very rich and meaty from the mushrooms. The noodles were properly chewy, with more texture than I typically find in ramen noodles. To cap it all off, a gooey egg to mix in. I can't wait to try their non-vegetarian ramen. If they can make vegetable ramen taste this good . . .
I'll also say that I've tried two desserts at Juno and both were outstanding. There is a chocolate dessert, with chocolate mousse, chocolate cake (or brownie), miso caramel sauce, roasted peanuts and tofu ice cream. This dessert was probably the most delicious dessert I've tasted this year. If you enjoy chocolate at all, you must order this, maybe even two. Also fantastic was the coconut dessert, which also included pineapple, lemongrass ice, tapioca and red bean puree. It's perhaps a little more cumbersome to eat (the way it's plated), but don't let that stop you.
As for atmosphere, I like the design of the restaurant quite a bit, easily a good choice for a special night out. Though I'll note that it gets very loud and might be difficult to hear someone speak even among a table for four. Service has been decent enough on both of my visits (better the second time really), though definitely not yet up to the standards set by the food. But, three weeks in, I'd say Juno is off to a terrific start and I predict many more visits in my future.