I had dinner this past weekend at Baume & Brix, and while I enjoyed the meal, I found that much of the evening could be summed up as unfulfilled greatness. Two perfect examples of unfulfilled potential were the shrimp and grits bisque (an appetizer) and the potato chip gnocchi (an entree). The shrimp and grits bisque featured a rich bisque with outstanding corn flavor, topped with perfectly fried rock shrimp, and some freeze dried corn, which provided some crisp texture to a largely creamy dish. As well as this bisque started, it did not finish quite as well. It simply became a little monotonous. Had the shrimp been given a creole seasoning, or if the bisque had been garnished with some sort of pickled vegetables, this would have been the best shrimp and grits-type dish I had ever tasted. As it was, it was tasty but it was missing a contrast in flavors that in my opinion distinguishes good from great.
Monotonous is also the best word to describe the potato chip gnocchi, which also had a sour cream and onion theme going, and showed off some caviar. But as feathery and delicious as the gnocchi were, the flavors offered only one note. Fine for a few bites, but nothing you cared to to keep eating. And yet this was an entree (though luckily four of us shared the dish).
Grilled octopus "fun dip"-style featured beautifully charred octopus tentacles which were lightly coated in olive oil to help the dips adhere (three powders really: coconut-lemon, Peruvian chile pepper and paprika). While I enjoyed the octopus, the only powder that really improved the flavor of the octopus was the paprika. And although the three powders made for a departure from the one-note flavors, they did so in a way that didn't really reveal so much creativity as much as a recognition that diners are sure to find at least one flavor they like.
But the biggest letdown among appetizers was the chicken liver mousse. On a plus note, the mousse was light and smooth as silk, with diced egg folded in. But that lightness was also a big problem - too much mousse, not enough liver flavor. A crispy piece of chicken skin really didn't do much to solve this problem. The mousse was served with delicious house made focaccia, but unfortunately that was the real star.
My favorite dish of the night, although I only had a few bites, was a French meets southern food course of fried duck leg with goat cheese grits and an acidic slaw of sorts as best I recall. The duck was masterfully breaded and fried, the grits dense and creamy, and all of the contrast missing during the evening was present in this dish.
But no matter the flaws with some of the dishes, I must note that absolutely every item we were served was perfectly cooked. And even the flawed dishes showed off enough flavor, enough skill, and more creativity than most restaurants in town, to make me think that small tweaks could have major, positive effects - the shrimp and grits bisque being the perfect example.
As for dessert, there was one huge gem, the milk and cookies. The milk was a take on Thai iced tea which wasn't particularly memorable. But the soft, freshly baked cookies featured chunks of candy cap mushrooms, a fungus I had never tried before. If you didn't know (and assuming you're not familiar with this mushroom), you would assume these were maple cookies, perhaps with some butterscotch notes too. I can't wait to do my own exploration with candy cap mushrooms - I'm thinking ice cream with nuts, or perhaps cookies with oatmeal and nuts, or maybe even some pumpkin-candy cap mushrooms soup in the fall. Most importantly, the cookies were delicious, but they were also eye-opening in their contrast of savory and sweet. I notice these mushrooms are $50 for 2 oz. (dried) from Rare Tea Cellar, so I think I understand why these mushrooms are not featured on every menu in town.
Service was friendly throughout the night, albeit with a few glitches which could be best described as just a general lack of awareness. But you could tell everyone truly meant well. Also, note that as the evening progresses, so does the volume level of the music, in case that bothers you.
I'd like to see these guys succeed because there really were some terrific and interesting elements throughout the meal, but tweaks are undoubtedly necessary if the want to ensure a lengthy stay.