After five or six thoroughly uninspiring loosemeat sandwiches I'd pretty much given up. Figuring it was worth one more try, we stopped at Canteen Lunch in Ottumwa, about 80 miles southeast of Des Moines. I can't say Canteen converted me into a loosemeat lover but theirs was certainly the best I've had.

Canteen Lunch has been around since 1927 and is truly in the alley. When threatened with demolition to make room for a parking ramp, public outcry was such that the structure was built around the tiny loosemeat emporium.

The place is small indeed, with only 17 stools around a U-shaped counter.

The menu is as simple as it gets. As I understand, offering a smear of cheesefood on the loosemeats—thus converting a canteen to a cheeseburger—is a relatively recent innovation. It's fun to watch the mashing of the loosemeat and assembly of the sandwiches. The finished canteens, each wrapped in waxed paper, are handed directly to the customers.


So why are these loosemeats so great? First of all, they're not great, just better than the rest. I think it's all about balance—a good meat-to-bun ratio and plenty of pickles and onions. They also get a shake of seasoning (maybe just salt) immediately before serving, which probably helps. I'm sure the atmosphere helps too; it's difficult not to be charmed by Canteen Lunch. In any case, I'm impressed that this little place has survived for almost a century selling not much more than ground beef on a bun.
Canteen Lunch in the Alley
112 E 2nd St
Ottumwa IA
641-682-5320
Mon-Wed 10-7, Thu-Sat 10-8