Ginza Restaurant


For me, he best thing about Ginza is the fact that behind a non-assuming facade, hidden in plain sight among the meat temples, chains and hoards lined up for the latest Oprah-endorsed salad, sits a simple oasis of serenity quietly serving traditional Japanese food while the hubbub of Ohio Street zips by unnoticed just outside the window.

Ginza Interior


Ginza is well worn, like a favorite sweater. I started going to Ginza's sister restaurant in Schiller Park (long ago closed) more than 25 years ago, and over the 15 year period my office was located down the street, Ginza was high in my regular lunch rotation. When I moved my office downtown, I started going to the Ohio Street Ginza on a much less frequent, but still regular basis. Now it's 12 years later and Ginza is still doing what it does best; serving solid (but not earth shattering) versions of Japanese home cooking and sushi at reasonable prices despite it's prime time location.



It had been a while since I went to Ginza, and its recent GNR nomination prodded me to make a return visit. I started out with an appetizer special of "Fried Sardines". The sardines were lightly breaded, in a manner similar to Salt & Pepper Shrimp rather than tempura style, and perfectly fried. They were served atop shredded napa cabbage and lightly dressed with a sweetened vinegar similar to sushi rice vinegar. There was also a dark sauce served on the side, but I found the fish to taste better with just the vinegar and a squeeze of lime.

Fried Sardine Appetizer


For my main, I ordered the lunch special Chirashi. The lunch special came with a small bowl of soup. When the waiter brought out the soup in its covered bowl, I was expecting the usual Miso soup, but this was really a nice surprise. The rich broth was jammed packed with vegetables and chunks of what appeared to be brisket.

Lunch Special Soup Course


The Chirashi was a modest portion of nice fresh fish, including a piece of abalone, which for me was a real treat. I haven't run into abalone all that often around Chicago. I've had better cut fish, but the freshness of what Ginza serves could never be called into question.

Ginza Lunch Special Chirashi


Total cost for this lunch, including tax & tip was under $18, so as I mentioned above, despite it's fancy Ohio Street address, Ginza is a bargain considering the quality of the food and the ambiance.

My wife told me about how she bumped into & chatted with the younger of the two gentlemen found behind the sushi bar at Ginza while on the bus yesterday, which reminded me that I had wanted to post about our most recent visit.

Early last week, after picking my wife up from the train station after my week-and-a-half of bachelorhood, the first thing she said was "I'm hungry", to which I replied "Well, there's no food at home". The first thing we both suggested was Ginza, and both were in the mood for a hot steaming bowl of something soup-like.

We started with an order of yakitori, three skewers of dark meat chicken served with a very tasty tare sauce. The chicken itself was tender and juicy, with the perfect amount of fattiness, and had a bit of nice char to it. My only complaint is that I could have easily eaten all three skewers myself, and instead had to share them.

My wife had the tempura udon:

The broth was subtle & mild (as it's meant to be), the noodles hearty and cooked just past al denté, and the tempura generous in size and very well cooked...all in all, this was a very nice dish.

My (sadly unphotogenic) tonkotsu ramen, on the other hand:

This was a big, bold, hearty bowl of soup. The broth had a velvety, rich texture and was satisfyingly salty & meaty, the noodles had a very, very slightly coarse texture (which I really enjoyed), the kamaboko slices were present & accounted for (and not really notable, as is generally the case with kamaboko), and the pork was, as mentioned upthread, deliciously porky and tender. After having a taste, my wife declared that this is what she would order next time.

Prior to this, the only ramen I'd ever had came in the form of a brick of noodles & a "flavor packet" and was generally eaten from a bowl "borrowed" from the dorm cafeteria while sitting on a bean bag, so I'm in no position to say whether or not the tonkotsu ramen at Ginza is fully "authentic", but it is one damn good bowl of soup that I would go back for in an instant. In fact, just thinking of it makes me think I know what I'm having for lunch tomorrow...I kinda hope it's cold & dreary, so I can walk out of Ginza feeling warm & rejuvenated, and people can stare at me and wonder to themselves, "this weather's crap - what's that guy so happy about?"

One of the things I love about Ginza is the rotating roster of specials they have for lunch. Often times, they have a selection of things that you don't usually see on most Japanese menus or they are sort of familiar but maybe a version of something you've never seen. And my favorite is when it's a combination of 2 dishes that fit those criteria.

Today, one of the lunch specials was Sukiyaki Don and Udon with fried bean curd skin. A bowl of rice with stuff on top served with a bowl of noodle soup? Sure! I never know what the portions will be either when it's a combo of 2 dishes that don't necessarily go together! But it was great! Both were delicious and you get to try a couple of different things. It ended up being quite a hearty lunch for $8.95.

OK, I'm embarrassed. I've worked within 2 blocks for 6 years, and always let its somewhat understated exterior deter me from trying this great little restaurant. What is they say about books and covers?

Well, I remedied the situation last week after seeing the GNR recommendation on here. The lunch combination is just about the greatest deal, in terms of both price and quality, as well as the relationship between the two, in the area. Comes with free soup--miso was salty, briny, and chock full of tofu, seaweed and scallions. The other free soup was clear broth-based with tofu, seawead, veg and what I think may have been fish cake? I was unable to identify the little meat-like bits, which in most cases would not be a positive, but here worked just fine.

The first visit I got some nigiri (sake and hamachi), both of which were rich, almost buttery, and as fresh as can be. I'm probably the farthest thing from a "how fish should be cut" expert, and I've read the knife skills here aren't great, but with fish this good I couldn't see how anyone could care! The broiled mackerel entree likewise was big, rich and charred in all the right places. The cabbage salad/ginger sesame dressing was a nice light accompaniment, but the pulverized cabbage garnish was weird--I wasn't quite sure what to do with it. The "side" of fried chicken really excelled. (Side note: any time you can order a "side" of fried chicken, it's a win in my book.) Crispy, light, dark meat nuggets--I could eat a bucket of them. On another occasion had the chicken teriyaki, another solid entree. Next time I'm going straight-up sushi.

The only thing I didn't really care for was the sashimi salad--maybe I was expecting something else, but it was vinegar-dressed lettuce, seaweed (i think) and a couple tiny pieces of sashimi. OK, but nothing I'd make a point to order again.

All in all, thank you LTH for showing me the gem of Ginza. I lerve it.

amyliz wrote:the pulverized cabbage garnish was weird--I wasn't quite sure what to do with it.

Oroshi (grated daikon) is the standard accoutrement for broiled saba. It's not for everyone. I was just at Ginza the other day for the first time in ages. I hope it never changes, though that seems unlikely. A quick look around the crowded room revealed that most of the diners were having the ramen special -- more proof that this town needs more ramen options.

At Ginza I love the mackerel with a side of natto (fermented soy beans). If anyone wants to try "extra-mild" natto, this is the place. Good slime, but very limited funk.

Thanks for the information! On a side note, rereading my post, I didn't mean to imply "weirdness" as a bad thing--I should have said, I know very little about Japanese food, and was looking for help identifying the substance. Thanks again.

JeffB wrote:At Ginza I love the mackerel with a side of natto (fermented soy beans). If anyone wants to try "extra-mild" natto, this is the place. Good slime, but very limited funk.

Hats off to you, man. I tried the natto (got the with-scallions option, I believe) at Ginza, and just couldn't do it. I choked down a few bites, then wanted nothing more to do with the stuff. Had to ask for new chopsticks too...the first pair were irreparably slimed & funkified.

Agreed. Snotto can be lethal.

Come on now. On a board where folks pen love letters to weepy cheese and South Asian breakfast brains, surely I'm not the only guy who digs natto.

JeffB wrote:surely I'm not the only guy who digs natto.

You can count at least one other.

Natto, count me a fan!

Natto handroll at Katsu



As an aside, Haruko, bride of Katsu, eye's light up when she talks about natto, she love natto in all forms from traditional, natto/rice/raw egg for breakfast to fusion, natto sauteed in olive oil, wrapped in butter lettuce and eaten with a sprinkle of soy for dinner.

More for you. Some people like okra that smells like ass. Some don't.

Gary, more for us. Katsu's natto looks gnarly.

Want to add another favorable data point on Ginza. This evening I attended an event right across the street from Ginza, and for various reasons had not had lunch ... so, I was the first customer at 5:00 tonight. Had a soft shell crab and a bowl of seafood udon. I've been on a bit of a soft shell crab kick lately, and this was one of the best I've had so far. What distinguished it were two qualities; first, the perfection of the frying, and second, the fairly heavy use of spice and the addition of great dipping sauce and accouterments (green onion, pepper sauce, etc.). And the udon was just marvelous, though it needed a splash of soy and a shake or two of red pepper to make it just right. Big shrimp, big clam, several mussels, bit of squid; just very nice stuff. Their GNR award is proudly and prominently displayed.

Ginza always has a small supply of one or two seasonal fish to round out the regular sushi menu, and this month's selection includes Spanish mackerel (Sawara) which gets topped with a bit of pickled daikon and scallion. It tastes of the sea and is a really fantastic bargain at $3.50 per piece. That added to a delightful late-night snack at Ginza after partying at Pops this weekend (late night being about 8:30 for us and Ginza, which was getting ready to close up a little after that on Saturday night)

Lunch at Ginza earlier in the week was as good as ever. I ordered the cold ramen special since it will be coming off the menu soon, and it was a fantastic balance of crispy, chewy and soft textures and sweet, sour and hot flavors. Whenever I have lunch at Ginza I end up wondering why I ever have lunch anywhere else downtown.

I am now working in an office at Dearborn & Illinois, putting me in walking distance of a number of fine River North lunch options, like my old friend Ginza. Today, I splurged on the pork ramen special with dumplings. The place was absolutely packed today, which was reassuring, as was the continued very prominent placement of their GNR award on the corner of the sushi bar. Well, this is just another data point, because I cannot add anything new; Ginza today was as delicious of food, gracious of service, and homey and comfortable as ever. I am glad to be a short stroll away.

Finally made it to Ginza, despite having been in the neighborhood for decades and never quite made it before. My loss.

Not a lot to add, other than that it is exactly the oasis I expected. It is notable and delightful that it is so unabashedly Japanese in its offerings, nothing terribly westernized or trendy. I started with a plum rice ball, and then moved on to respectable and enjoyable sushi.

I will be back.

Circling back to the OP, Ginza is dingy and low-rent in every way I want dingy and low-rent to be. Like Kuni's in Evanston, it is careworn and musty, a Twin Anchors of Japanese comfort food. I wouldn't have it any other way, as the welcome it provides is enhanced by its own lived-in aromas and close quarters.

Every single element I enjoyed at a recent lunch was three notches above average and served with a genuine smile. Broiled mackerel over rice and some richly vegetal goma-ae with a lightly fermented sauce were perfect counterparts. The miso was rustic and distinctive. The toro was nothing pretty but served on some aromatically-vinegared rice and melted freshly on the tongue. The little oshinko dish snapped merrily. I tried some of a companion's chicken katsu, which, again was perfectly cooked (very moist, freshly pounded, coarsely trimmed, actually tasted like chicken) with an enviably savory-crisp breading. In the shadow of the Bloomdinah Temple with Big Bowl across the street and Eataly opening down the block, may it ever stay a Little Red Lighthouse.

I finally made it in last night for a fantastic meal. I work around the corner, but my shifts usually end too late for me to get in before they close. I got out a little earlier last night and went into an almost-full restaurant with tables coming in right up until they locked the door.

Between the two of us we had about 20 pieces of nigiri, my usual favorite being the unagi, but the toro and the octopus were fantastic as well. Not the prettiest cut fish I've ever seen but I don't care about that kind of stuff at this price point. We also had some badass umeboshi, a tempura selection, and our favorite the grilled hamachi kama with (I think) pulverized daikon. I could eat hamachi kama all day every day.

All this combined with a few Asahis and a really tasty green tea mochi gave us both that elusive feeling of well-being that I call the "sushi buzz." I'll definitely be back. To try the hot items. Like next week.

Bad news for Ginza fans:

http://chicago.eater.com/archives/2013/ ... aurant.php

Lerdawg wrote:Bad news for Ginza fans:

http://chicago.eater.com/archives/2013/ ... aurant.php

UGH.

I just read this. Seriously disappointing news. But I guess knew it would be coming sooner than later. Hopefully they open someplace else.

Crain's wrote:Ginza, which opened in 1987, has long catered to Japanese tourists and business people visiting Chicago, but also gained a loyal local following. In 2009 LTH Forum awarded it as a "Great Neighborhood Restaurant" and many people flocked there not only for the simply prepared, fresh sushi, but also for its authentic hot Japanese dishes like yellow tail collar, raw octopus in wasabi, ramen and Japanese street food.Ginza will close on Oct. 26. The property that housed the now-shuttered dive hotel was sold, according to restaurant employee Akina Hanaguka. "Unfortunately we have to leave here," she said. Ms. Hanaguka added it will be business as usual until they close, and they don't plan to throw a closing party. She said Ginza is considering moving to another location.

I think we're going to have to schedule a last meal at Ginza. It will be missed.

stevez wrote:

Crain's wrote:Ginza, which opened in 1987, has long catered to Japanese tourists and business people visiting Chicago, but also gained a loyal local following. In 2009 LTH Forum awarded it as a "Great Neighborhood Restaurant" and many people flocked there not only for the simply prepared, fresh sushi, but also for its authentic hot Japanese dishes like yellow tail collar, raw octopus in wasabi, ramen and Japanese street food.Ginza will close on Oct. 26. The property that housed the now-shuttered dive hotel was sold, according to restaurant employee Akina Hanaguka. "Unfortunately we have to leave here," she said. Ms. Hanaguka added it will be business as usual until they close, and they don't plan to throw a closing party. She said Ginza is considering moving to another location.

I think we're going to have to schedule a last meal at Ginza. It will be missed.

PLEASE do. Just make it for after 10/16 (out of town).

This hurts. First they came for my gyros melt at CND, now they are taking my natto. One of the tragedies of human existence is that things that seem too good to be true are each eventually hunted down and stomped out by hoteliers with business plans and a value proposition marginally acceptable to a lender of some wherewithal. or they become a themed meta-version of themselves.

If it were a true hipster hotel, they would leave it as is, maybe clean it up a little, and definitely leave Ginza. Too bad that "hipster" is a commodity theme like "nerd" these days.

I know it's a rush to judgment, but fuck the "Broken Shaker." I accept reality, but I don't like it.

JeffB wrote:I know it's a rush to judgment, but fuck the "Broken Shaker." I accept reality, but I don't like it.

The Broken Shaker isn't even good sexual innuendo.

RIP...

JeffB wrote:I know it's a rush to judgment, but fuck the "Broken Shaker." I accept reality, but I don't like it.

I really get sad when I see old "joints" replaced by yet another glass walled temple to whatever is considered trendy at the moment.
I hate the fact that Chicago's neighborhood bars are disappearing as well. I have no particular beef with barrel aged cocktails and small batch microbrews but I still want my neighborhood place where old men play cribbage and wash down shots of Jim Beam with tap beer.
Luckily while we lose a place like Ginza every so often we also gain places like Big and Little's and Cemitas Pueblas.
Still I can't think of another downtown Japanese place that has the combination of food, atmosphere, and price. I suspect I'm not looking in the right place.

I made it to "hipster hostel" and sighed.

Ginza is a one of a kind in Chicago, and probably the only Japanese restaurant (other than Katsu) in Chicago that I'd have the balls to take my California-raised Japanese fiancé. Losing it is a tragedy for Chicago's Japanese dining scene.

"Hipster Hostel" is literally the stupidest thing I've heard in a long time. But given the location, it will probably be more "tasteless yuppie approximation of something that I read about in Brooklyn." So basically a vapid facsimile of a vapid facsimile.