Here is my review from dinner last night at Graham Elliot:
My wife and I were joined by another couple at Graham Elliot and indulged in the 14 course repertoire menu. We arrived a bit early and took a seat at the bar while waiting for our friends. Walking in I noticed that Graham Elliot is considerably larger than most of the fine dining venues I have frequented in Chicago (referencing the restaurant, not the owner). The tables fortunately are spread out a bit, but the restaurant and bar area were a bit on the noisy side. There is a modern, funky vibe. I perused the cocktail list (which had some interesting combinations) and ordered a Port Royal consisting of whiskey, rum, allspice, and some citrus which was very pleasant. In addition to cocktails there are several craft beers and a nice wine list (cocktails run $13 and wines by the glass average $16).
We were seated on time and handed menus; there is an a la carte option, a nine course tasting menu and the fourteen course repertoire; I strongly would discourage anyone from ordering a la carte as you would have to spend far more than the cost of the tasting menu in order to have enough food to suffice as a meal. The entire table must opt for the same menu; the tasting menu is the size of a small to moderate meal in a more traditional restaurant and the repertoire adds up to the size of a moderate to large meal - make sure you are in for the long haul though as you should expect at least a three hour culinary journey with the repertoire. Dinner includes complimentary still or sparkling water and at the end of the meal French Press coffee is available for $6.
Our server got off to a bad start in that three in our party do not eat foie gras and this was one the only course on the repertoire we wanted substituted. Our waiter informed us that no substitutions were possible for this course. We were rather taken a back as most restaurants are more accommodating of what seemed such a reasonable request and the server came across as rather smug to not at least check with the chef. We informed him that we would opt for the tasting menu instead (as no foie was on the shorter tasting menu). He departed and the mood at the table was dampened. A few minutes later he came back and announced that the Chef had informed him that he would be willing to make a substitution for the foie. Fortunately for the rest of the evening service improved aside from a couple of minor gaffes (i.e. one course was delivered and explained while one member of our party was in the bathroom). On a positive note the service was very attentive and on one occasion when my wife accidentally spilled her nearly empty glass of sparkly our server replaced it with a full glass without charge (I was tempted to spill my glass of wine as I was down to the last couple of sips, but opted to not push my luck).
In general the food was quite interesting and had beautiful plating and some exotic flavor combinations. We learned that they had just rolled out several new courses tonight as part of their Fall menu. Chef Brochu took over the kitchen a few months back and his influence was pronounced; this was definitely a high caliber meal. At this price point ($145 for the repertoire) I had lofty expectations and while this was overall an excellent meal, I have had slightly better tasting menus in recent months at lower price points such as at Goosefoot, Boka and Next. For me there was definitely some courses I loved, some that were decent and a couple that were just OK. My favorites on the night were the broccoli course that had the most delicious cheddar cheese powder, the cheese course coated with ash and the dessert course with sassafras, root beer powder, almond cake and plum sorbet. The egg course with truffle and Parmesan and the pork belly course with chicory and huckleberry were quite good as well. The food (but not the experience) reminded me of Sprout and of El Ideas (which happens to be the venue Chef Brochu worked at just prior to transitioning to Graham).
Graham Elliot was nearly at capacity tonight and Chef Graham himself was in house. He is a larger than life figure and made rounds mingling with lots of the patrons. I was able to spend a few moments with him on the way out. I am glad to have finally experienced this venue and in most cities this would be among the very best, but Chicago has so many awesome restaurants that at this price point, as much I as enjoyed myself, I just do not see myself becoming a regular.
The Dining Room

Oyster Course

Foie Course (We Had Pea Substituted for Foie - but it Looks the Same

Tomato

Pork Belly

Broccoli

Lettuce

Egg

Intermezzo

Just for the Halibut

Beef

Cheese

Watermelon

Plum

Chocolate

Mignardises

Posing with Chef Graham Elliot
Last edited by
Gonzo70 on September 15th, 2012, 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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