Tonight I stopped into this five-week old Albany Park entry in the south of the border chicken sweepstakes.
Chuy's is grilled chicken, not rotisserie, and unlike the picture of El Pollo Loco in today's
TimeOut Chicago, there was no open flame. Gas grill, not charcoal. The counter guy said "Mexican, actually Mexican-American" when asked the joint's provenance.
The "Grand Opening Menu" is predictably spare, and not in a bad way. There are some oddities, such as the choice of free hand made tortillas
or pita bread with any order "as a Grand Opening courtesy." For sale are 1/4, 1/2, or a whole chicken and sides.
Home Made Sides: Mac & Cheese, Mash Potatoes [sic], Green Beans, Refried Beans, Chicken Rice Soup, French Fry Potato Wedge, Cole Slaw, Sold Pasta Salad, Spanish Rice, and Corn
Sauces: BBQ, Salsa Spicy Green, Salsa Spicy Red, Jalapeno, Teriyaki, Soy
I ordered a leg and a breast with two sides--refried beans and mac and cheese (in deference to my 1 1/2 yr old dining companion).
The chicken was fine though not special. I tried the roja and the verde, which were both of a fairly standard formula, but also both better than I expected. Especially the roja. Mac and cheese was not very good, and not very hot to boot. The refried beans were also better than I expected. The texture and consistency was pretty good, but I did detect an odd anise-like flavor that I couldn't quite place.
I queried my server, and he proudly brought me to the kitchen to witness a giant pan of beans soaking for tomorrow, and another of the mashed beans for today. Only water, beans, salt, onion, and oil, he says, explaining that they were made in the traditional style. I asked him about lard use (which clearly was not in evidence), and he gave me a look that suggested no right-thinking American could expect to open a contemporary restaurant serving beans cooked in lard. I was pleased to see a giant tub of
chiles de arbol in the kitchen.
Finally, the fresh tortillas, which I saw being pressed and griddles, and were really a nice addition to the meal. They could have been griddled a little longer for my taste, but they were thick, fresh, chewy, and hot. I don't believe the pita is made on-site

, nor did I ask if they import
South Side bread. I doubt it.
The feel is very much that of a place trying to be a "contemporary American restaurant"--it was pretty obvious to me, based on my general knowledge of Chicago dining and my interactions with the waitstaff, but it had an air that made me ask whether it was the only location. It is.
The walls are painted a bright orange, and the space is very clean and well-kept. The tables and chairs are standard issue fast food. The sides and sauces are kept in a long steam table reminiscent of Subway's coldcut and veggie table. There are a few barstools at the end of the counter positioned in front of a brand new high definition flat screen television, on which a family of four watched, I believe, Jimmy Neutron on Nickelodeon while I patiently waited for them to leave so we could switch to the Sox game.
All in all, an agreeable place, and if I lived a couple blocks from there, instead of Brasa Roja, Mr. Pollo, and Semiramis, I could certainly see returning when in the mood for a cheap chicken. I'm interested to hear what others think.
Cheers,
Aaron
P.S. As far as I could tell, there was absolutely no relation to the Austin-based Tex-Mex chain Chuy's.
Oh, and one more note, I asked for a leg and a breast, and I believe I was charged for a half chicken (with sides), which seemed a little pricy at $7 and change for what seemed like not too much food. If you get the half chicken and specify just white or dark, you may get more food.