Dining in Paris … Illinois, that is!

Driving last week on highway 1 along the eastern edge of Illinois, I found myself passing through Paris. My only interaction with Paris was some years ago when I contacted the retired Cooperative Extension specialist for honey bees. I no longer remember the question though I remember the interesting conversation. I smiled broadly when I read signage all over Paris about the honey bee festival from the week before. I wondered if the honey bee became associated with Paris because of this specialist or specialist found himself here because of the honey bee.

I drove through Paris never dreaming I would be back as soon as I was. I was doing a talk in Marshall the next big town about 15 miles further south. Marshall is like a lot of small towns, the local restaurants which may interest us finish serving at 8 PM though Wendys, Pizza Hut and McDonalds are open until 10 PM or later. I didn’t drive 222 miles so I could eat what’s near my house.

After my talk, I posed my favorite question, “Where can I eat where you wouldn’t bring guests but it’s your first stop after being away for several months?” “Why home, of course!” was the first very sincere answer. Another person simply shook her head advising there was nothing like that to be found in the area. Later someone volunteered some tips warning it meant a drive to Paris.

After 8:30 PM on a Thursday evening, I find myself tooling down a country road to Paris to visit Joe’s Pizza & Italian Foods. Once Joe’s name had been mentioned in passing, then someone blurted out he had had some trouble with the law. When I inquired what kind, nobody would say more than it was in the book, The Pizza Connection. I was provided no address except to drive around the courthouse square and peer down one of the side streets to find Joe’s sign.



I walked in to find a large framed montage of the location’s owner citizenship certificate along with photos and program when he became a citizen in 2002. I knew the legal issues connected with his name were highly unlikely. Felons don’t get US Citizenship, they get jail time and expulsion. On another wall were super sized photos of his granddaughters who are obviously his pride and joy. From looking at these visible accomplishments of his life: his business, citizenship and family, I felt a keen awareness he was very aware of the whisper campaign swirling around him. This is where small town living can be very tough indeed.

I ordered a mini Joe’s Special pizza dressed with sausage, mushrooms, green pepper, onion, pepperoni, pepperoncini, green and black olives. The tomato did have some wine as my tipster had highlighted, though it seemed freshly added and a bit harsh. Overall it was a more than good enough pizza when my alternative was Pizza Hut.



The other tip offered to me may not have had the drama connected with it, though it did have something we are always in search of: homemade pie. I was advised to look for the “pie shack” located at the railroad tracks. When I arrived the next morning, the signage said anything but “Pie Shack,” which I later learned was the local nickname.



Since this place was the only diner at the railroad tracks, I went inside to find a room crowded with locals having breakfast. I grabbed a stool at the counter to read through the menu. Above the doorway there was a white board advising the pie offering for the day: raspberry cream, coconut, chocolate, chocolate peanut butter, peanut butter, lemon and sugar free apple.

I ordered raspberry cream pie, ½ order of biscuits and gravy, an egg sunny side up and an order of fried mush. A full order of biscuits and gravy was $2 and half was $1.50, though the half was very substantial. While the gravy had the full punch of ground black pepper and fresh milk, there was very little sausage present. The biscuits, as much as I saw of them, were fresh tasting.

The fried mush had a wonderful crust. The waitress had inquired if I wanted butter or syrup for my mush. Not really knowing what I may like, I told her to bring everything so I could test it out. Having only 4 pieces, I had two plain, one with butter and the other with syrup. I like buttered or plain as long as I had my egg yolk available to dip it in.



My dessert was the raspberry cream pie, which was heavenly. The graham cracker crust was not pressed tightly like a frozen crust, instead it was loosely packed and moved with the filling. The bottom layer seemed to have sour cream and/or cream cheese, which worked well with the raspberry filling on top.



While I was eating my pie, I was thinking about my relatives I was visiting later in the day. How much they might enjoy this place, except it was an inconvenient 75 miles away. I inquired about taking a whole pie, which I was told was possible if I ordered in advance. I politely reminded her I was a perfect stranger passing through who would love to have their pie, though I could not possibly order it in advance. If there was any chance I could bring a pie home, I would be very appreciative. She consulted with the kitchen, offered me three choices and I took away a walnut pie for $6.



Even though this is central Illinois, you already begin to feel the southern influences. In the hand written specials of the day, you had your choice of 3 sides which is a classic southern food fingerprint.



All the while I was eating, I was taking pictures of my food, the menu, the specials of the day and the pie signboard. Nobody paid any interest in my activity. As I was paying the waitress did finally ask the question on everyone’s mind, “Why are you taking pictures?” I told her I have this hobby writing about food I like on the internet. “So you like our food?” “Certainly or I wouldn’t have bothered with the camera.” I left shortly thereafter only to forget my pie. Apparently, there had been some discussion after I left because when I returned nearly the whole diner was razzing me about taking pictures. The best line, “So what if you left the pie, you still have the picture!”

After my very full breakfast, these people would have been amused to learn I was having lunch at Moonshine just 90 minutes later!

B & J Restaurant
256 North Main Street (Main and Union at the railroad tracks)
Paris, IL 61944
217-465-9006

Joe’s Pizza & Italian Foods
226 W. Court Street
Paris, IL 61944
217/465-8588

With all due respect, that is probably the most bizarre looking pizza that I have ever seen. You are a brave soul for attempting to eat it.

Thanks for your report, although, if I am ever in Paris (IL) I think I will drive to the nearest town with at least 50,000 people in it before I chow down.

Cathy2 wrote:

This is why I rarely bother to eat pizza outside of Chicago. I have had this pizza, or one just like it, in many a town. I have finally sworn off.

Note to New York Pizza lovers: Please notice I said rarely...not never.

That pizza looked great .... and handwritten "meat and three" menus ...
made it hard to concentrate at work all day.

Hi,

Earlier that evening, I had gone to a family restaurant in Marshall with very little time allowed. I was very interested in the fried pork tenderloin sandwich until I learned it was preprocessed frozen, not pounded and breaded in-house. I was offered a grilled pork tenderloin sandwich, which in retrospect I should have ordered because surely it was freshly cooked meat.

What I did order was a turkey sandwich: bread underneath, turkey laid on top, a ice cream scoop of mashed potatoes with gravy covering everything. I had hoped they might have some stuffing, but that is made for Sunday with any leftovers served on Monday. Everyone around me who came later were served some minutes ahead of me. I was so tight on time, I asked the turkey sandwich come in a take-out container.

Gradiose mistake ordering this turkey sandwich. The turkey was not sliced breast, instead it was reconstituted turkey with a very slick texture. The mashed potatoes were instant. The gravy was as expected and it did hide a lot of sins. I had no more than 4-5 bites, then had to dodge out the door.

When my program was over and the pie tasting concluded, the thoughts of eating the cold not-so-great turkey dinner didn't thrill me. Traveling to the next town for pizza was oh so much more attractive.

I did pick up a few more tips, which I found just now going through my notes. In the town of West Union, which is south of Marshall along Highway 1, they are known for their catfish fry. There are two locations in order of preference:

Earl's Supper Club
West Union, IL 62477
217-279-3534

Silver Moon Restaurant
230 North State Highway 1
West Union, IL 62477
217-279-3836

Driving through Danville, I saw a barbeque joint which I would have loved to stop for:

Kag's Bar-B-Q
2409 Georgetown Road
Danville, IL 61832
217-442-9679

I believe I tried Kag's offerings some years ago when driving through Danville on a Sunday. They set up a 50-gallon oil drum smoker in a parking lot to sell to those passing through.

While looking up the particulars on this restaurant I found something else in Danville at least worth a peek:

Lee's Famous Recipe Chicken
501 North Gilbert Street
Danville, IL 61832
217-443-4760

And please let's not forget Danville is the hometown of Dick and Jerry van Dyke!

Regards,

That pie sure looks swell. I don't think I've ever seen raspberry cream pie before. And was the walnut pie just as good? I think I asked this once before, but have you come across chess pie anywhere in this state? My daughter developed a real affinity for chess pie when we vacationed in Kentucky, but I can't find it here. The ever-accomodating chef at Cajun Charlie's actually made us one, which was tremendously nice of him, but to be honest we didn't care for it much -- too sweet. Or, as a pie expert, do you have a good recipe? My attempts have not come out too great either.

HI,

I have not seen a Chess Pie available for purchase in Illinois so far.

I have made Chess Pie, though there are plenty of variants for chess pies including chocolate! The Chess Pies I make have buttermilk with a taste and consistency of cheesecake. Does this sound like what your daughter likes?

I have heard the origins for Chess Pie are: A visitor came to a home where a pie was baking. When they inquired what it was they were advised, "Just Pie!" who misunderstood it to be "Chess Pie." You know what happens when people slur their words!

Regards,

ToniG wrote:That pie sure looks swell. I don't think I've ever seen raspberry cream pie before. And was the walnut pie just as good? I think I asked this once before, but have you come across chess pie anywhere in this state? My daughter developed a real affinity for chess pie when we vacationed in Kentucky, but I can't find it here. The ever-accomodating chef at Cajun Charlie's actually made us one, which was tremendously nice of him, but to be honest we didn't care for it much -- too sweet. Or, as a pie expert, do you have a good recipe? My attempts have not come out too great either.

West Town Tavern used to have Lemon Chess Pie on their dessert menu, but it's not currently there. I've seen some items come and go off that menu, so it might return.

1329 W Chicago Ave.
312-666-6175
http://www.westtowntavern.com/

Best,
Michael

I'd like a straight, unadultrated chess pie -- no chocolate, no lemon (though thanks for the suggestion) as we found in Kentucky (I don't recall seeing anything but plain chess pie available there). My daughter liked best the one we had at Claudia Sanders restaurant outside Louisville; my favorite (more nutmeg) was at the Boone Tavern in Berea. Yes, Cathy, your recipe sounds like the right thing; I recall the pies being custard-like, though, more than cheesecakey. When I tried at home once before my pie didn't set, so we ended up using it spooned over vanilla ice cream -- very tasty, but not what we'd had in mind. Can't recall now where I found that recipe, though. Let me know what you have! Thanks.

ToniG,

Over at Cooking and Shopping I posted a Chess Pie recipe which I have made before. If you don't want the lemon presence at all, then eliminate the lemon peel.

Regards,