Heading through Burbank one dark night before Halloween, I noticed a new restaurant promising halal Lao food. What?


Historically Chicago has had only the sparsest representation of food from Laos, so this was exciting. We stopped briefly to talk with the owners, Kaew and George, and became even more interested to return. I've now been back for three excellent meals. Kaew, who does all the cooking, is from the eastern edge of Thailand, close to where it meets Laos and Cambodia. She clearly knows what she's doing in the kitchen and cooks a style of Southeast Asian food different from what I've come across elsewhere in Chicago. Most of what I've tasted tends toward rustic home cooking that's extremely appealing.
We decided to try the egg rolls and our $1 gamble paid off. Your dollar may get you either one long one or a couple shorts. Take your chances.


A super-crisp rice paper shell comes stuffed with fresh vegetables, herbs and bean thread noodles, seasoned with turmeric-heavy curry spices. Unlike any egg rolls I've had and absolutely delicious. I can hardly imagine visiting and not ordering egg rolls.
Chicken wings are pretty straightforward—deep fried without much previous treatment and served with a sweet sauce containing red pepper, cilantro and chopped vegetables.

Those expecting something akin to Rainbow's kai tod will probably be disappointed.
We specifically asked Kaew about Lao dishes and she was happy to make some salads not listed on the menu. A jackfruit salad (tam khanun in Thai) was reminiscent of Vietnamese goi ga, with meaty "tree mutton" standing in for chunks of chicken.

I'm not sure this salad was strictly vegetarian (it probably contained fish sauce) but Kaew is adept at meatless cookery as her husband George is vegetarian. I have a feeling vegetarians could eat very well here. I should mention the salad was ordered "medium" and it packed some serious heat.
I've had her fermented bamboo salad a couple times. This one might be slightly tamer than Aroy's but it's still plenty funky.

We ordered it "hot" and it certainly was, though the burn was balanced with powerful fish and lime flavors. Unlike some similar Thai salads, the Lao versions aren't sweetened with sugar. I appreciate this austere approach as a change of pace. I need to try Kaew's take on som tum. I wouldn't be surprised to find it significantly different than others found around Chicago.
Two very different soups were both winners. Thailand's khao tom, often eaten for breakfast, can sometimes be congee-like but Kaew’s version (kow-tome on the menu) contains distinct grains of rice.


There's an awful lot going on in that broth. This might be the best $4 you can spend in a restaurant.
I don't think this curry-like beef soup is on the menu but it's worth asking about. The one we had wasn't particularly spicy but had an appealingly strong turmeric flavor.


The broth had a slight viscosity I couldn't figure out (okra?). Turns out it's thickened with broken rice.
On a later visit we tried a beef and vegetable dish with fairly similar spicing.

I think I enjoyed this drier one even more.
The only dish I probably wouldn't order again is this fish.


The sauce (reminiscent of Vietnamese nuoc cham) and garnishes were delicious but the fish itself was uninspiring even by tilapian standards.
The off-menu Lao dishes, otherwise unavailable in these parts, are a big draw but I wouldn't overlook the printed Thai menu. We took a chance on the massaman curry (chosen with chicken instead of the traditional beef) and were rewarded with this freshly made bowl.

It's probably the most turmeric-heavy version I've tried (sensing a theme here?) as well as the freshest tasting. Unlike the long-cooked versions I'm used to, this one had still-firm potatoes and abundant gravy that was perfect with the brown rice.
I couldn't be happier to have this exciting addition to our Southeast Asian choices.
Spicy Thai Lao
5357 S State Rd (about 7800 S, 5400 W)
Burbank IL
708-424-1758
http://www.spicythailao.com/