I regularly make my way to
Dong Ky to feast on their excellent rendition of the noodle dish,
mi Quang.
*
mi Quang
look at that colour!**
As it should be somewhat evident from the above photos,
mi Quang is not quite a noodle soup, but it is not a particularly "dry" noodle dish either. In this regard, and as Vietnamese noodle dishes go, it is fairly unique.
*** The relatively spare amount of broth or sauce included makes it more of a "stew" really, and one where the liquid seems merely sufficient to keep the noodles and various bits of meat and garnish slick and accessible.
And, speaking of garnish,
mi Quang is relatively unique in that regard, too. For unlike the vast majority of noodle soups and stews served in Vietnamese restaurants--the various
pho,
hu tieu, and
bun creations--this bowl arrives to the table with the garniture already in place.
**** The diner is simply left to mix them in. Or not.
While you or I might not think of the broth for
mi Quang as being "stew-like," it is very rich all the same. I am not exactly sure how the cooks at
Dong Ky fashion the broth, but from what I understand, this traditionally involves simmering rind-on/bone-in pork (and sometimes dried shrimp) for a very long time. Additional elements in the reduction--which go some way towards providing the complex, deep flavour and colour of the resultant broth--might include onion, tomato, pickled cabbage, and pineapple.
At
Dong Ky the additions to this bowl of noodles and broth include squid tubes, shrimp, fish balls, stewed pork, sliced Vietnamese
pork roll, halved hard-boiled egg, and the occasional piece of stewed chicken.
*****
Rich and robust,
mi Quang is one of my favourite cool weather warmers, and to the best of my knowledge,
Dong Ky is the only establishment in the area to feature this item.
You can read a bit more about
mi Quang,
here, at Noodlepie.
-----------------------
While I am at it I will mention another dish that I think
Dong Ky does particularly well, and that dish is
bun nuoc leo (a.k.a.
bun mam).
bun nuoc leo (a.k.a. bun mam)
Traditionally, the broth for this item is fashioned with the use of a very pungent Vietnamese-style fermented fish paste called
mam nem, and along with some manner of thin rice noodle (
bun), this soup usu. contains a mixture of pork, fish, and/or seafoods. Often salty, often zesty, and even sometimes sweet, I have discovered tremendous variation from one shop to the next along The Argyle Strip. What I particularly like about
Dong Ky's version is the fact that the salty pungency and richness of the broth is kept in check with a good amount of sugar, lending it a dimension and balance which some other versions sorely lack.
*
As you can see in the above photo, the soup arrives to the table garnished with a handful of sliced Chinese chives and minced cilantro. The diner is also furnished with additional (discretionary) garnishes in the form of mint sprigs, shredded red cabbage, bean sprouts, jalapeno slices, and wedged lime.
Dong Ky's rendition of this soup mostly contains slices of catfish, but there are usu. a couple of shrimp and a few thin slices of three-layer pork, as well.
You can read a bit more about
bun nuoc leo (a.k.a.
bun mam),
here, at Noodlepie. It happens to be Pieman's favourite noodle soup in the Vietnamese repetoire, and it is probably mine, too.
Dong Ky
4877 N. Broadway
773.989.5579
Seven Days
E.M.
* The precious little that I know about the provenance of this dish comes from Andrea Q. Nguyen at VietWorldKitchen.
** From the little information that I have been able to glean on this dish, I understand that (in Vietnam) a special flat rice noodle which has been stained with tumeric is the traditional staple. In its stead, Dong Ky uses a type of wheat noodle which has been coloured by the inclusion of egg and/or food colouring.
*** Stablemates might include the classic Vietnamese "stews" ca ri ga and bo kho, both of which are commonly served atop blanched noodles.
**** At Dong Ky this means that the noodles (as well as the broth and bits of meat, of course) are situated on top of a handful of bean sprouts, and beneath a scattering of mint springs, shredded red cabbage, deep-fried shallot rings, minced cilantro, and minced scallions.
***** Supplemental reading on the subject leads me to believe that it is nearly an "anything goes" type of creation, varying tremendously from household to household and vendor to vendor.
* My favourite version of this dish can be found at Tien Giang. There, the soup usu. contains a good quantity of finely-minced lemongrass, and the shrimp, sliced catfish, and sliced pork are always very fresh and flavourful. The salty, sharp broth, however, has a tendency to wear my palate out in short order.