Plans shifted throughout the weekend and I was lucky enough to end up visiting Sumi Robata Bar last night. For me, this is the most exciting addition to the Chicago restaurant scene in some time (based upon my experience last night), despite the fact that the nearby Boardinghouse is no doubt stealing much thunder. In fact, despite a December visit to Alinea, I have to say that my excitement last night might have been just a little bit higher given how delicious the food was and how well it was prepared (and the limited robata grill scene here in Chicago). No, maybe it's not quite Raku in Vegas, but it doesn't have to be (and certainly not after just one month).
There were two of us, and we ordered 5 items from the appetizer portion of the menu, 6 items from the robata portion of the menu, 2 desserts and a $40 bottle of sake. The bill came to $120 for 2 and we were both very full. Anyway, what we ordered:
Asparagus - This was the first item delivered (it's from the robata portion of the menu) and a real head shaker, and I'll echo Ronnie's comments. The asparagus was not only loaded with flavor, but perfectly grilled to retain its crispy texture, and seasoned solely with a delicate sprinkling of flaked sea salt. So simple, but so perfect. By the way, togarashi is available at the Robata bar and on the few tables, so you can always use some as desired for seasoning.
Gabo - Mirin braised burdock root with sesame seed. This was one of my favorite items of the evening - shredded strands of burdock root mixed with an intense yet not overwhelming sesame seed paste, and topped with several strands of what I believe were crispy, fried strands of burdock root.
Maguro - Bigeye tuna with white soy, yuzu juice, crispy shallot according to the menu, but there was also avocado as well as some leaf that added another dimension of flavor. Another favorite, and what I loved about this dish was that the flavor of the perfectly sliced tuna could stand on its own, but the other flavors (and textures) were gently applied and really elevated this dish to near perfection. I thought there were just enough tuna slices to make this a perfect item for two people to share.
Onsen tamago - Soft poached egg marinated with dashi soy (mushrooms too). I'm not sure what type of machine they use to prepare this egg, but this was a perfect preparation - pure silk. And once again, an absolutely perfect balance of flavors. A lesser restaurant could easily overwhelm the egg with the dashi soy.
Jidori Karaage - Crispy fried chicken, with shishito pepper paste. The Japanese do not get the credit they deserve when it comes to fried chicken, but I find that Japanese fried chicken often far exceeds anything you can find in America, even in the south. Raku in Vegas makes a simply stunning version that is so delicate. The only one that's ever let me down was at Kai Zan here in Chicago, a truly disappointing version. The version at Sumi is one of the excellent versions. As Ronnie noted, it was very crispy, incredibly moist and served very hot. I didn't love the accompanying shishito paste because it was slightly bitter (and unnecessary in my opinion), but the chicken was quite good. And I might prefer the skin to be more delicate, but that's a minor criticism.
Yakitori Don - Chicken yakitori over rice served with tare, tokyo negi soft poached and nori. This is not what I'd call a sexy dish at Sumi and not one that stands out to you when reading the menu. My friend picked this out and I would have ignored it. But what appears to be a home-style, comfort dish, turns out to be quite the elevated bowl of chicken and rice. Specifically the most perfectly cooked rice with each grain standing on its own, beautifully moist chicken in a teriyaki sauce, the silky poached egg to be mixed in the bowl and strands of nori. It still might be simple and merely comforting, but the skill with which it's prepared let you know that Sumi Robata is very serious about its food.
Shishito - I can't recall whether there were 5 or 6 small shishitos in the order. But as with the robata-grilled asparagus, perfectly grilled, dressed solely with flakes of sea salt, and naturally delicious.
Salmon - Grilled on the robata grill and glazed with a teriyaki sauce, this salmon was outstanding. The glaze did not at all overwhelm the fish, and the fish was so tender and could not have been cooked any more perfectly. Though not a large portion by any means, it's sufficient for two people to share.
Lamb - This was a single bone-in lamb chop with spicy miso. With just a single chop, not a dish easily shared. But you won't want to share this perfectly grilled, medium-rare chop anyway, The flavor is delicious (yes, it actually tastes like lamb which these days doesn't seem guaranteed), and the spicy miso accentuates the flavor without overwhelming. I found myself gnawing on the bone to extract every last bit of the delicious flavor.
Duck Breast - Served with "original tare sauce" (teriyaki I assume). The sauce itself is not remarkable, but the moistness and texture of the duck was perfect. I enjoyed the duck quite a bit, but not as much as my dining companion - this was my dining companion's favorite bite of the night.
Tontoro (supposed to be pork jowl] - served with black pepper. This might have been the only think that frustrated me with Sumi. I was looking forward to some fatty pork jowl, but without saying anything, they substituted pork loin and later admitted this when we questioned the dish, reasoning that they were out of pork jowl. I would not have ordered pork loin, but for $3 I was not going to make a big stink. In any event, the flavor was quite good and like every other item we ordered, perfectly cooked.
They were also out of a couple of other items (the chicken parts), but I suspect all of these issues relate to operating a restaurant that's only one month old.
For dessert, we shared two items:
Tofu - Soy milk panna cotta and satsumaima puree. This was delightful - ultra-silky tofu, delicately sweetened, and with just enough satsumaima (Japanese sweet potato) to know it's there.
Donatsu - Sansho-chocolate filled doughnuts with matcha mousse. I think they said this is similar (if not identical) to a dish served at Japonais. The doughnuts were perfectly fried and the oozing sansho-chocolate filling was delicious. But I found the flavor of matcha mousse (frozen) to be lost when paired with the bolder flavors.
Service was not always efficient and was sometimes confused, but again, this restaurant is only a month old. I will say that even if the staff is not always perfect, they are very friendly and approachable and that certainly makes for a great experience. The only think you might want to know going in is that the majority of the seats are around the robata bar (less privacy), so if that's something that you would care about, you might want to be specific when making a reservation. Personally, we enjoyed the interaction with some fellow diners (and seeing what others were eating) and particularly enjoyed watching the food preparation, and I would want to sit at the bar.
After dinner, we visited the downstairs bar and each enjoyed a cocktail. I had the gin-based Rhododendron which I thought was terrific. I tend to like cocktails with some sweetness (particularly after dinner), but I appreciated that the sweetness was restrained and the flavors in the cocktail complex.
Overall, an outstanding dinner and I can't wait to return. The extensive menu is one I look forward to exploring several times over. My only fear is that people will eventually realize this gem exists and it will be hard to get a seat. In the meantime, I'm simply pleased that I can get in, probably because there's not a smiling celebrity chef here that people crave to see in person.