Was back at the counter at Nightwood earlier this month and had another inspired, stellar meal. The menu was full of tempting offerings. We identified a few must-tries with our server and let her know that beyond that, the kitchen was free to serve us whatever the liked . . .
Driving Me Backwards | Wild Turkey 101 bourbon, Cynar, cherry, lemon, root beer bitters
Boozy and aromatic with a nice touch of sweet bitterness.
Focaccia | onion & bread puree, pimenton oil
A thoughtful, tasty starter. They don't just throw some bread and butter at you at Nightwood. They use the opportunity to create a distinctive and delicious course.
Crispy Pig Ears | house-cultured butter, maple, habanero, cilantro
I find these impossible to resist. They're dense and ultra-crunchy, and the habanero balances the sweetness beautifully.
Monkfish Liver Carpaccio | pistachio, celery tops, black truffle, peanut-chili oil
Not on the menu, this fantastic creation was rich, funky and totally unique (just like a weird Uncle). I'd never had anything like this before but I loved the treatment, which included a lengthy salt cure, iirc.
Bread | olive oil (accompaniment)
Scrambled Egg | runny yolk, ricotta, Michigan trout roe, guanciale
Inside this scrambled egg purse was a delectable, runny yolk. Not only was this intricate dish perfectly executed, the composition was phenomenal. Who thinks of stuff like this?!

Foie Gras | apple, ginger, benne seed-fish sauce caramel
I loved the combination of flavors and textures here. The brittle caramel, with the benne and fish sauce incorporated into it, was magnificent wrapped around the creamy-rich foie.
Ricotta Ravioli | Bolognese
2 items that no one in town does better than Nightwood: pasta and bolognese. This was a great combination of flavors and textures, with the pasta being perfectly al dente (no surprise there).
60-Day Dry-Aged Illinois Beef Meatballs These were actually part of a special that was going to appear on the following day's brunch menu. I'd read about them in their email blast and mentioned them in passing to Chef Vincent. He very kindly provided us with a small order of these spectacular meatballs; some of the best I've ever had.
Veal Shortrib Casoncelli | black truffle, Iberian ham
Another winning pasta dish. Rich but not so over-the-top that it didn't satisfy entirely.
Corzetti | Butcher & Larder sausage ragu, pickled hot peppers
I loved these al dente 'stamps,' especially with the sausage ragu. And the pickled hot peppers were a great addition that accentuated hearty flavor of the ragu.
Wild Mushroom Salad | arugula, sunflower, butternut squash
A truly inspired winter salad. The components, all prepared deftly, worked so well together. This was so hearty and savory, it was hard to wrap my head around the fact that it didn't contain any meat.
60-day Dry-Aged Wood-Grilled Top Sirloin Steak | Anson Mills farro, candied pecans, bacon jam, ranch dressing
Phenomenal, deeply-flavored beef, cooked perfectly and matched up with a very unlikely combination of other ingredients. The sweet elements worked very effectively in the background to highlight the beef.
Wood-Grilled Slagel Farm Chicken Breast | n'duja vinaigrette, braised garbanzo beans, sheep's milk feta, kumquat, fennel
Yeah, that's white meat, folks. It was awesome - juicy and flavorful. The other ingredients combined to create an almost tagine-like treatment.
Spit-Roasted Illinois Duck Cassoulet | porcini breadcrumbs
I loved the umami explosion this dish delivered. The fat on the slices of duck was crispy on the outside and purely succulent the rest of the way. The beans and sausage were spot-on and the porcini-spiked breadcrumbs sent this dish over the top.
Rhode Island Striped Bass | 45-minute egg, frisee, coppa, crispy potatoes
The skin on this moist and flakey piece of fish was as crispy and delicious as it looks. The other components were crazy-good, with the coppa providing a nice bit of salt and the runny egg yolk becoming a great sauce, especially on those potatoes.
Desserts by Pastry Chef Sarah Mispagel were notably excellent and provided fitting continuity to close the meal. Absolutely no drop-off here, which is no small feat after a cavalcade of savory dishes like the ones we had . . .
Apple Bread Pudding | honeycrisp apples, rosemary-vanilla creme fraiche, house-made cheez-its, pinenuts, rosemary ice cream
I loved this ultra-light, almost-fluffy, intensely apple-y bread pudding. And the crunchy cheez-its were outstanding. I found the rosemary notes a bit of a distraction but others in our group really loved it.
Mascarpone Cheesecake | pistachios, blood orange, Aperol, pistachio ice cream
A great cominbation of seasonal flavors paired with a perfectly creamy cheesecake. Naturally, the cake itself was rich enough to satisfy in that cheesecake-ity way but was still light enough that it wasn't a gut-buster.
Valrhona Dulcey Mousse | flourless chocolate cake, potato chips, bittersweet chocolate sauce, cherries, malted vanilla ice cream
I think this was my favorite of the desserts. The multiple chocolate expressions -- in both flavor and texture -- were intoxicating and the additional accents were as wonderful as the centerpiece. I'd never had this dulcey product before but I cannot imagine its buttery, toasty attributes being applied any more skillfully than they were here. The salt and crunch of the potato chips really accentuated the chocolate and the malted vanilla ice cream added an entire dimension to the array of flavors on the plate. Speaking of ice creams, these are consistently some of the best in town. They're perfectly silky, and their flavors are intense and clean. After all this, they sent us home with some shortbread, too!
It continues to amaze me how this kitchen seems to top itself each time I eat there. This food really speaks to me and I wish I were half as talented at anything as this crew is at food. What a treat it is to sit at the counter, watch them work and enjoy the benefits of their considerable talents.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain