A lovely meal at Elizabeth this past weekend helped me recognize how much I enjoy the new trend of restaurants that have very high level dining in a more relaxed atmosphere. Schwa and El Ideas are two others. Many years ago, fine dining, which was usually French (in Chicago, Le Perroquet or Le Francais), meant a hushed atmosphere and very formal service. Multiple waiters would put the plates on the table simultaneously, if silently, the decor was formal, people talked in hushed tones, and the whole ethos was one of formality.
I do want some aspects of the fine dining experience: I want proper stemware, food brought at the same time, a meal properly paced; someone with knowledge of the wine; wine at the right temperature, etc. But none of this requires a formal atmosphere. Schwa was fun, but pounding rap is not my cup of tea. But in El Ideas and now Elizabeth, I've found the perfect combination, taking what's best from fine dining, stirring it up with what's best from casual neighborhood joints, and coming up with find dining where you can relax, laugh, joke with the staff, while eating the highest quality cuisine.
I wonder if this in a uniquely American phenomenon; it would seem to me to reflect something about our character, but I don't have enough international dining experience to make an assessment. Whether it's unique or not, as I said in the title, it's one of my favorite trends, and one I hope is here to stay.